2000 auto with 135K miles. I have had the car since about 40K and had no real issues but the tranny is acting up. The background is M1 full-synth ATF flushed every 15K miles, pan dropped/cleaned every 30K and I don't dog it. My issue first appeared last summer and would slip out of 4th while accelerating, once I lifted off the gas it would go back into gear and work just fine. Today I was driving home from work (about 25 miles- first 20 hwy, last 5 heavy traffic) and driving through the neighborhood at about 25mph the revs just went way up (3K+). I let off the gas, tried again and was able to move- but at 3500-4000rpm. It's in the garage now and I am unsure of what to go to next. I am thinking rebuild. I checked the fluid- no burnt smell, nice and red, last flush was about 8,000 miles ago. I cleaned the sensors (from other posts) last time I flushed and did not see any difference in performance. I have singled the problem down to only when it's hot... It's 98 degrees outside. I don't want to do a rebuild (who does?) but would like to see if there are any other ideas (possible sensors) before I take it to the shop. I drove around the block and the trans will go into reverse, 1, 2, D with the normal RPM drop and will do the usual "creep" with no brake or gas applied. It's only when putting the acceleration factor in that it slips. Being that last summer it only happened a few times when hot and around 40mph, and now it's happening at 25mph I believe it's either electrical, the torque converter, possible solenoid, or something major in there.

Open to suggestions and thoughts.

 

Sounds like a bad MAF. Are you on original MAF? People say cleaning helps but I've gone that way with no luck. I had similar problems with 2K auto and found even after transmission oil change and rev. sensor didn't fix the problem. Also first try disconnecting the electronic motor mounts. Hope this helps

 

I've read (search function) the MAF threads and the part that doesn't line up is that this only happens when hot and the engine will rev all the way up, even when engaged or slipping. Performance also has never been the problem. I'm going to get codes scanned and see if that comes up with anything. MAF still could be it, I just marked it off due to the other threads where the issue related to an inability to rev up.

 

Any codes?

Usually it will throw a code when the problem is reoccuring. I've read alot about people having their rev. speed sensor fail, and give them similar symptoms...

 

No lights. Took it to a shop I trust and they are going to get it nice and warm before a test drive with both a trans and engine scanner computer hooked up. I talked with the guy for a good 30 mins and he also brought up the rev sensor, maf, and tps on his own which was reassuring. I'll keep the thread updated for future victims. Of course I drove to the shop and it didn't mis-shift even while driving like a grandma, getting on it WOT and everything inbetween. There is definately something going on but since the issue isn't constant finding it may be difficult.

 

Keep us updated, my 2000 (177K), is doing the same thing. I was just going to chalk it up to needing a rebuild since it's got so many miles on a FWD trans.

 

The shop looked at it yesterday and couldn't find anything that was obvious but will have their import troubleshooter guy (evidently this guy is amazing with hondas and nissans) look at it when he comes in tomorrow. They are thinking it could be the rev sensor, MAF, or TPS. They can't seem to find anything coming up with the trans itself and since the shifts are fine (until this gremlin rears it's head), fluid looks great, and the issue is intermittent they think electrical is a strong probability. I Should know some more tomorrow and I will keep this thread updated. There are a good number of threads with this issue in the archives but the answer never seemed to come out by the end of the thread.

 

Well... they can't find anything coming up. They think it could be the TPS, or obviously the MAF or Rev speed sensor. They were nice enough to even say they are "do it yourself" type items which I took as a good gesture that they weren't going to try and bend me over the coals. I am thinking of just replacing all 3 at this point with the fact they are all original sensors at 135K. The sensor replacements all look straight forward, but I keep reading that the Rev sensor also works with the ABS sensor- any knowledge there? ABS works fine and no lights but do these simply need to get cleaned while I am doing the other sensors? Which one talks to the ECU/TCM (as in both fronts? drivers side? rears too?) I can't seem to find the schematic to run through the system.

 

THis sound like a TPS issue to me. MAF would have the car bog down like crazy. Sounds like the car knows waht RPMs its at so not Rev speed sensor. Sounds more to me the car dont know what TPS its at. WHen the last time u clean TB adn MAF? I wd say do that first per the how-to in the 4th gen section

 

I did the rev sensor cleaning and a MAF/TB cleaning about 2 months ago when I changed the oil last. About to go put on the new sensors, I'll report back after a long drive in 100+ heat and see if it acts up again.

 

Somewhat depressing that this thread has a strong resemblance to a blog but here is an update and problem.

Installed new MAF- new one has 1 extra pin but everything bolts up fine and looks identical.

Installed new Revolution Sensor on/in the trans.

Installed new TPS- bottom screw was a PITA to get out as it was a super tight philips requiring small hands which I do not possess.

Took for a test drive, car acceleration jumpy (technical term) and problem still remains, actually happened twice in one test drive.

Came back and realized I had not re-calibrated the ECU or done the lean-calibration for the TPS.

(out of town for 4 days...)

I left the batt unhooked while gone and did the TPS relearn when I got home. The thing idles fine now BUT- in Park- the engine will rev smooth up to about 1600 and from 2000 to redline. Between 1600 and 2000 there is hesitation and it is NOT smooth. This is the same rpm range where I am having the transmission issues occuring so I believe there is relation.

WHAT could/would cause this issue? The MAF is new, TPS is new. I love and hate electronics.

 

between only 1600-2000.... thats an interesting thing you bring up....

If I am not mistaken the vias functions at low and high rpms and probably in that zone you're mentioning.

Another thing that happens is the motor mounts going from soft to hard... however... I dont know what exact rpms that happens.

If I may suggest to rule out any electrical issue with the mounts... i.e. power drain etc... why not disconnect the front and rear motor mounts and see what happens?

You have already put in the 3 sensors you suspected so some trial and error now?

 

I disconnected the mounts, no change. I had the wife hold the rpms at the point where it went irratic (1500-2000ish) and literally adjusted the TPS until it smoothed out. From there I did the idle relearn and it idles and drives great. More testing this weekend but the TPS seems to be the main culprit.

 

Do report back if the TPS 100% resolves this issue. Good Luck

 

I do believe the TPS was the overall culprit. As stated in previous posts I replaced the MAF, TPS, and the Rev Speed Sensor. The MAF made a big difference in idle and overall acceleration, the TPS seems to be the main component to my problems. After getting the adjustment correct the acceleration and shifts are smooth, downshifts are instantaneous, and there is no more "hanging" in gears. I drove a good bit today in the heat and a mix of city/hwy and driving hard/easy and normal. The car feels overall like it did 100K miles ago. The motor mounts have been disconnected (with no ill-feeling consequences, more risk mitigation) and the rev speed sensor may have been fine, but everything works well now and the sensor seemed to be a common culprit of issues on the forum so I get some "pilow factor" of knowing it's already been replaced- cost was $150 at the dealer. The MAF and TPS came from autozone and have no issues (and half the cost of the dealer) with great results and warranties. Hope this helps others with the "trans slipping out of gear then fine afterwards" issue.

 

That doesn't make sense. Where did you get the new MAF? I installed one a couple of years ago on my 2K GLE, got it from Nissan, it was identical to the original one in my car. (Not to solve the kind of problem you were having - I had a lot of pinging and codes, and the new MAF completely fixed everything.) No extra pin.

So I wonder if you actually got the right MAF?

 

Good to know higney85, I'm glad you found the problem. So if there is no SES for TPS, it can still go bad.Did you have take the car at dealer to adjust the idle or you did the ideal relearn without consult II (disconnect the brown connector and plug it back within 5 sec) ?

 

The new and old looked exactly the same with the only exception being the pins- the new one had one additional pin, which the harness actually had a hole for. Not sure what's up with that, but it does work!

The answer is "NO" to any use of a consult-II, but it did take me a bit of tinkering to get the TPS set up correctly. I swapped all 3 sensors but did one at a time with the batt unplugged and then would restrart- trying to make sure as I did each one everything worked before I simply did all 3. The MAF/Rev sensor had no problems and did not do anything more than let the car idle and have the ECU figure itself out. When I got to working on the TPS my issue was that where is bolts up there is a "track" where the actual sensor can be rotated as it impacts the rod directly off the butterfly in the throttle body. When I first installed it (with the car off) I put it where it "looked" like the factory one had lined up- started up the car and it was screaming at a 2500rpm idle. I loosened up the TPS and rotated the sensor until the idle sounded correct and was not racing (just under 1000 rpm). I did the idle relearn and took it for a spin at that point and was met with the same problems before and extremely jerky acceleration. I came home and adjusted the TPS again, this time I put it right where rpms began to come up (they showed about 1100 on tach and at normal operating temp). At that point I unplugged the battery for a bit and reconnected, restarted, did the idle relearn procedure, and it drives like it did 100K miles ago. The idle also came down to what it should be per the FSM after I did the relearn. All-in-all a success although I did make some mistakes along the way, which are visible in this thread.