5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Problem while installing NWP Spacers

Old Jul 13, 2010 | 04:34 AM
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Problem while installing NWP Spacers

So I'm new to opening the IM. So I started unbolting the UIM. While I was there I wanted to change my spark plugs. So I opened all of them and last one on top right side I pull that coil out. Soon as I did I see oil dripping out of it. So I cleaned it out. Spark plug was covered all in oil. So I took it out cleaned the coil and put the spark plug and bolted it. I was doing the spacers install. So I after I got everything bolted up and ready to start. I crank my car and smoke started coming out of my exhaust. Now at that point I thought that it was that oil I saw from the coil that drop in the engine might be burning off. So smoke stop after awhile and I go press the gas pedal to rev it up. It hesitated when I press the gas pedal. It's like it's almost dying before it revs up. But, It stays idle good. What's the problem??
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 07:11 AM
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your rear valve cover is cracked. So oil will keep building up in that pocket.

Check all your connections, I've done this install 5 times and there are lot's of connections you can forget. Did the SES light come on? Double check you plugged in the MAF sensor correctly. Check all the hoses. SOunds like you forgot one and may have a vacuum leak.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 08:07 AM
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Yeah there is one hose that got tore up by me trying to take the damn hose out. I got the clamp over it where it got tore up now it don't hesitate so much like it use to. My a/f ratio is jacked up. It use to read 14.5 - 14.9 at idle. Now its like 15.7 - 16.9. I've messed with vafc to get it back in between 14.5 - 14.9. There is only hesitation around 750rpm-850rpm. After those rpm range pass car is powerful.

Yeah I thought about the valve cover cover is cracked. I order the part but it was in back order so I'm going to dig up on it again soon as I get it back. Since I took it apart this time now it's easy for me to do it again.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 08:18 AM
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You have a leak, unmetered air = lean

So somewhere from the heads to the maf you have a leak
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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Sup kevlo long time I heard anything from you.

I probably just get a different hose from like hardware store and use that. It's the hose that connect to the elbow right underneath the Throttle body.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tedo007
Sup kevlo long time I heard anything from you.

I probably just get a different hose from like hardware store and use that. It's the hose that connect to the elbow right underneath the Throttle body.
Yea come down, we can go to destin or some ****.

Yea if it's at the tb then thats the prob. Don't make any afc corrections at idle, no point. Fix the vac leak first.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 08:52 AM
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Yeah I get it done today. Yeah I'll come down. How long you going to be in town? I ain't been in DeFuniak for long time. I probably try to make it next week. I want to check your car out.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by tedo007
Yeah I get it done today. Yeah I'll come down. How long you going to be in town? I ain't been in DeFuniak for long time. I probably try to make it next week. I want to check your car out.
All summer. Till late aug. Im in gville this week so just lemme know when you come next week .
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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This might be a stupid question but, did you use RTV on the spacers? I think there was another .org'er that installed them without the RTV and had problems.

Also, did you email Aaron? He seems to be an upfront guy and more than willing to help.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:59 AM
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poor thread title

should be "Problem while changing sparkplugs"
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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BTW did you do the TB and idle relearn after the swap? How dirty was your TB?

After my install I had just enough vacuum going through the TB to make the throttle plate stick. After a liberal spraying with seafoam deep creep with someone holding the throttle open (Car off of course) took care of that problem. If you do this restart the car at night, it'll get a little smoky for a bit.

As for the oil going into the engine due to the VC leaking, Yea don't worry about it, it'll burn off.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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if you follow the instructions correctly, there should be no problems and you shouldnt have to do anything else
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:16 AM
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Did you unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the intake manifold? If not this was my problem as well. I skipped over it and ran into the same thing.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Rhyno02
This might be a stupid question but, did you use RTV on the spacers? I think there was another .org'er that installed them without the RTV and had problems.

Also, did you email Aaron? He seems to be an upfront guy and more than willing to help.
That would be me, however that wasn't NEARLY what my problem was. I had a HUGEEEE leak, because I misread and forgot to take the bracket off the rear..... Gl op. Just check for connections if you're 100% you did the instal correctly. There are tons of sensors and hoses that look to be in place but actually aren't.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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Damn that sucks soon to be getting those spacers and got to change the rear VC for sure and plugs!!
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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I use the RTV Gasket Maker just like what it said on paper. So I fixed the pipe that was broken by me while doing this install. But there is still something wrong with my car. I dunno what it is. Bad a/f ratio too lean. Performance wise it was good on highway. I hear air sucking in back of UIM (HSSSSSSSSSSSS). All the pipe is connected like they were supposed to be. I don't know what else could it be?
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Froggmann
BTW did you do the TB and idle relearn after the swap? How dirty was your TB?

After my install I had just enough vacuum going through the TB to make the throttle plate stick. After a liberal spraying with seafoam deep creep with someone holding the throttle open (Car off of course) took care of that problem. If you do this restart the car at night, it'll get a little smoky for a bit.

As for the oil going into the engine due to the VC leaking, Yea don't worry about it, it'll burn off.
I didn't take the wire out that goes in TB. Do I need to do idle relearn?? Does this make any difference in how the a/f ratio react? Car doesn't die but it reach the a/f ratio almost at 17.4 at idle.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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if you hear hissing then you did something wrong.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tedo007
I didn't take the wire out that goes in TB. Do I need to do idle relearn?? Does this make any difference in how the a/f ratio react? Car doesn't die but it reach the a/f ratio almost at 17.4 at idle.
One of the things these spacers do is increase the velocity and in turn volume of air that enters the engine so yea the idle volume reset is a good idea.

If this does boil down to a vacuum leak you can use ether or an unlit propane/butane torch to find the leak.

Just make sure you do that in an open outdoor area. Trust me being in the center of an explosion is not fun.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
if you hear hissing then you did something wrong.
knight it only comes from the pipe that connects from elbow to uim.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Froggmann
One of the things these spacers do is increase the velocity and in turn volume of air that enters the engine so yea the idle volume reset is a good idea.

If this does boil down to a vacuum leak you can use ether or an unlit propane/butane torch to find the leak.

Just make sure you do that in an open outdoor area. Trust me being in the center of an explosion is not fun.
I will be doing that 2morrow morning. I believe I'm going to need a coil pack. Because of the misfiring is happening.
Old Jul 14, 2010 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by tedo007
knight it only comes from the pipe that connects from elbow to uim.
In that case you may want to pull the elbow off and take a look, from what I have read it's pretty easy to crack the aluminum if you don't torque properly.
Old Jul 14, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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I didn't over torque it. To me I think I need new coil pack on top right one. Because of all the oil spill inside of it probably messed it up.
Old Jul 14, 2010 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tedo007
I didn't over torque it. To me I think I need new coil pack on top right one. Because of all the oil spill inside of it probably messed it up.
If I were you I would grab a 6th Gen Valve Cover to fix the problem while I was at it. If you got the scratch, replace at least all three coils just to know you have them done. That way you aren't continuously going in there to do piecemeal fixes.

At least that is the way I'm going to do it.
Old Jul 14, 2010 | 10:52 AM
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I do have the throttle response problem. Is that man I need the do the Relearn throttle position thingy (LOL).
Old Jul 14, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by tedo007
I do have the throttle response problem. Is that man I need the do the Relearn throttle position thingy (LOL).
you need to do all the relearns that are in the instructions
Old Jul 15, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by e-subliminal-2
Did you unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the intake manifold? If not this was my problem as well. I skipped over it and ran into the same thing.
What do you mean what bracket? Is the bracket you talking about is the one that holds the UIM from firewall? Because I took those two bolts out to remove the UIM. Do I need to completely remove the bracket?
Old Jul 15, 2010 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tedo007
What do you mean what bracket? Is the bracket you talking about is the one that holds the UIM from firewall? Because I took those two bolts out to remove the UIM. Do I need to completely remove the bracket?
You should, the spacers will make it not line up anymore and possibility screw up the fit of your intake elbow.
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