Okay, so this was rather disheartening the other night....Over the past 2 months a buddy of mine and I have been leisurely working on my max which had a bad 5-spd tranny and needed new axles. In the end, we did the tranny, axles, full brake job and 2 rear calipers.

In the process, the one key used was misplaced. I called up the local Nissan shop, first asking if they had the key, then if I could get it in there to match it with the ECU. According to them, they no longer have the key code and they provided me with a locksmith who specializes in this sort of thing. So I had the locksmith come and do everything. He provided me with the chipped key and the mechanical key. Asked me to try and turn it over and it wouldn't go, so we went to jumpstart it, and the car still wouldn;t turn over. Now it is important to note, that while attempting to start the car the security light was NOT solid. However, he had me stick the mechanical key in and make sure the car wouldn't start. Perhaps this caused the immobilizer to trip and go into lockout mode, I don;t know. Afterwords the car seemed to be doing the very same thing, where it wanted to turn over but sounded like it wasn't get any spark. I didn't pay much attention to the security light at this point as I didn't realize the importance of it. That will be my first thing to note when I go back to my rents house where I keep the car. Only after doing a search on here did I realize the importance of it.

My question is, what else could it be? Certainly I can grab the low hanging fruit first so to speak and look at the security light. But what if it isn't that? Has anyone had to replace the entire immobilzer unit? Or could this be another issue?

I should note, the fuel pump was working properly and it had fresh gas, all lights were working.

 

sounds like you need to get the key programmed using the Consult scan tool

 

I assume it was the only key. If so the only option is to program new key into ECU which can only be done by dealer I think.

 

from what i understand, if you try to start the car when its remotely locked, the car will not start. I once had this issue. I locked the car remotely and later realized my keyfob had stopped working. So i unlocked the car with the key and tried starting it but nothing happened. Even unplugging the battery didn't do anything. Thankfully i got the keyfob to work and was able to electronically unlock it.....started up just fine after that..

 

Not true, sorry - my keyfob 'Unlock' button often doesn't work so I simply unlock the driver side door with the key and start the car as usual. Never had a problem with that.

 

Definitely not true. I usually use the key fob to lock the car and most of the time unlock it with the key. And a local locksmith can program new keys to the car. I bought 2 chipped keys on line for $15 each and for $40 my local locksmith cut them both and programmed the car with his Dell laptop.

 

Correct it was the only key....The key fob definately can open the door, right now I'm more concerned with actually getting the car to turn over. I've heard of a "soft" reset so to speak where you:

Turn the FOB to the on position then to the off and hold for about 5-10 seconds. Do this three times and it's supposed to reset, however this is geared towards lock-out mode caused by sticking the incorrect key, non-fob key etc in the ignition.

The locksmith did what is described above, took a blank chipped key, cut it, gave me the cut code. Using a laptop or some device to match it to the ECU. I would go to the dealer, however according to Nissan of Norwich they no longer have the code for my car. They claim that Nissan deletes codes out of their system once they age past 10 years so that they can recycle them.

I'll call a couple other dealerships and see if I get the same story. The fact the dealership provided me with this guys number made me beleive it was legit.

 

I use the above term "key FOB" incorrectly, I meant the chipped key. I get what you are saying now, though, IIRC I used the key to lock the door because the batteries had died in the "FOB"

 

Soo just tried to turn the key, it is a blinking light. So the security system is working as it should....

 

AFAIK the programming procedure involves connecting to the car ECU, deleting all the keys stored in its memory (I think, it's a single command) and then program new ones one by one. So, any blank chipped key will do as long as it is compatible with the car. I also think your dealer is wrong about 10 year period and some codes that rotate as they have to write the key's code into ECU. Trouble is in order to program keys into car's ECU the car has to be physically at a dealer which is not so simple when it doesn't start.

 

That's what I thought as well, 10 years and then the codes are done doesn't really make sense. I have Triple A so I can get it towed, I'll contact a few dealerships on my lunch break today and see what I can come up with.

What's strange is that the locksmith did match the key to the ECU with a laptop. I'd imagine that if the key was incorrect or the ECU didn't recognize it I would be getting the "hard" security light rather than a blinking security light with the key in the ignition.

 

I called another dealership, Paul Miller of Fairfield, CT they claimed that they could get the code within 24 hrs they didn't have it on file though.

I think my best course of action at this point is requesting the locksmith to come back and make sure everything was done correctly.

 

If you try to start the car using a key without a chip (valet key), the engine will crank but will not start. I think that using a chipped key that is not programmed into the ecu would be the same as using a valet key, crank but not start. I'm leaning towards there is something else preventing the car from starting.

 

I don't know 100% for sure about the 2000-01 Maxima's, but I do know 100% on the '03 G35 (which has the same key as an '02-'05 Maxima) that in order program the new keys, the locksmith has a special programming "box" that isn't a laptop. Not only does he have to have the right (electronic) tool, but he also has to physically do the procedure correctly. My G35 coupe sat at the locksmith's place completely immobile for half an hour (even with the original key), while he figured out that he had to just hold the key "on" for five seconds, rather than cycle it on and off 5 times. He also had to call his equipment rep to get the proper programming codes to even get the "box" to link up with the ECU. He ended up having to use a code for a different Nissan vehicle.

So, yeah - have the locksmith re-confirm that he did his job correctly.

 

Had the locksmith come over, the key was as he could tell programmed correctly. The car is getting gas and spark initially I didn't think it was getting gas. The car when backfiring spit out a bunch of gas.

He said be would be able to hook me up with a Nissan mechanic who moonlights. So that will be my nct step from here.

The odd thing about this car is it's not even throwing a code, maybe because it hasn't because it hasn't been running?