Hi, Ed! I just pm'd you before I realized you wanted to talk here.

IDK about the Mt. Fuji in the decal... it would compete with the Infiniti logo in the engine cover, directly above it. Too many mountains.

I'll take a measurement, but here's a pertinent question: what about heat? This is on top of the radiator cap, so it gets almost too hot to touch sometimes. Do you have different materials, and in a thicker gauge than what we've been seeing on these vinyl decals for the windows?

I'm thinking solid, dark silver would look pretty good.

I no haz caliper, just ruler. But I'll do my best.

 

Actually the thinner stuff handles heat better, but even at that you're looking at like 200 degrees. Do you think that cap gets hotter than that? ..and measure in mm then

 

I have a hook up at Fastenal if you have those up north. Great little store, take a bolt or really any kind of fastener to them and they usually have it in stock. Had to do it when I dropped an EGR bolt and it seemed to disappear. Its nice to not have to go to Nissan and pay their prices for a bolt.

Pics to come on the bat tray. Had to hurry up and finish the radiator job before dinner and ran out of daylight.

 

I seem to remember someone measuring the front coolant pipes at 225, and this is the radiator cap, so yeah... hot.

Fastenal is here in the Northeast. They can get you just about any nut or bolt or widget in any size in any material. Good store.

 

The radiator cap won't be above 200° unless you are overheating quite severely. Unlike the conductive coolant pipe, the sticker side of the radiator cap is not in direct contact with the coolant. That's why they place such a huge emphasis on the warning. People often make the mistake of believing that the coolant isn't hot if the cap isn't. Painful mistake.

 

True. 140 deg water is scalding hot. So if you can keep your hand on the cap without getting burned it's got to be cooler than that.

 

I just checked the raw data from the CAD project, the water temp got up to a max of 203 deg sitting at an idle. The cap will be significantly cooler than that so Ed's decal will be OK.

 

OK, guys. Thank you. Either way, it's worth a shot.

Ed, the inside area of the radiator cap cover is 45mm in diameter.

If it holds, you could start a FS thread with link to an Amazon store for the cap/cover, and a charge for a solid decal of your color choice, or a 2-color with some kind of logo. There are all kinds of possibilities. But first things first, let's see if it works at all.

Thanks, guys.

 

Here's a more simple alternative, M8 stainless steel dome nuts.

@0.43/ea at Pro-Bolt, it's certainly worth a shot. Weirdly insignificant pricing from them, because their retail prices are typically high.

Whatever, I just ordered 6 to play with.

 

^Can't do that. Strut mount nuts are rated. This means they're higher strength. Those chinsy little stainless nuts are insufficient. You can get Grade 5 Plated nuts, and that's a good option too

I think there's a form of spray on electroplating style stuff too, but I've had no luck finding it yet. Though admittedly, I've not looked hard. What CJ linked looks appealing as well.

^This, thanks for beating me to it.

 

No, no, no... as CAPS for the section of bolt that's extending beyond the strut nut. I'm not using these as replacements for the OEM strut nuts. That would be dumb.

Eventually I'll get some titanium strut nuts. But I'm waiting for when I buy the GT-Spec FSTB.

 

Ahhh my bad I misinterpreted clearly. Let me know how they work then!

 

I'll send you a decal in dark silver

 

 

Finally finished up on my battery and took some pictures. Replaced the clamps with Tsunami clamps and finally got to take off that red plug that is a dirt magnet. All of the power wires are now nice and neat. Anyways heres some pictures of the tray for those who were thinking about getting one as well and the clamps.

 

Nice set ups

 

I was skeptical, but that looks pretty darn good.

 

Appreciate it, I still have to clean it all up because its filthy right now. Have always hated the stock battery set-up and especially that red clip on the 4th gen positive wire. Still need to run the amp power wire under the intake instead of over it and probably going to wrap it in electrical tape so it blends in. Im not a huge fan of split loom. 1 random red wire especially a 6AWG kinda stands out as you can see. Appreciate it though folks. I believe thats my first .org compliment!!!

 

Yeah I like it also! Did you happen to take a pic of the rubber/plastic that goes under the battery terminals to prevent them touching the battery holder? I think I want one now.

 

not really feelin' it to be honest. It's like, "hey look at me. I'm a battery."

Also, spend the 8 bucks and get some new radiator mounting bushings.

 

It looks like a VIP Battery Tray to me. I think Moncef should get one.

Now if you want to go after something... the radiator hose says Mishimoto, but the clamps say 16 year old Nissan.

Go buy a couple of these. At $2.60, it's a decent way to dress up the ends of those radiator hoses.

 

Some of the things I do to make my engine bay look "pretty".....I powder coat things...lol

 

Well That was a fail on my part not thinking about the new clamps, instantly when it was done I was SMH. Tomorrow though rest assured they will be gone

 

Good for you! I was starting the think I was the only one nuts enough to powdercoat the waterpipes. And black on the cast pipes... very nice.

 

Thanks.... As far as nuts, yeah I guess were alike there. I have powder coated my HO alt, power steering pump, TONS of brackets...etc OCD am me!

 

turned out very nice indeed. I like

 

I was so convinced this would look right, that I ordered a half-dozen from ProBolt, and payed twice the cost in shipping. And then I was in Home Depot this afternoon, when wouldn't you know it... they had these in SS. So I picked up one to get a preview.

And it looked really, really stupid. (sigh)

 

I dont think the rounded tip would look good. A more aggressive square tip or hex in brushed aluminum might give you what your looking for. Never know until its on though as always.

or this

 

ChockandNaww I like the battery+connectors, but a few things...

The wiring, you need to re-do the + and - wires, can't run 10+ year old wiring because now that sticks out along w/ the old connectors... I may hit up pops idea... the red car can go for some blinging (well making it look more low key but not out of the 90s)

I hope the rest of the engine bay bling is up to spec, or you're just working on it part by part.... Next try polishing the upper radiator mounts, AE engine cover, gold bolts for the engine bay, black covers for the fluid bottles, etc. etc.

 

Yea the negative and the amp power is going to be hidden today. I just hate split loom, it looks cheap. I painted the rad mounts but it still doesn't pop enough yet so I might hit it with some more clear coat. I got some covers for the reservoirs but you guys probably wont like them.

 

If you must put a sweat band on your brake fluid reservoir (must you? ), at least get one without a logo, so that it goes unnoticed. Then take the cap off the reservoir and break out the cleaner & toothbrush. If the cap is too far gone, buy a new one or paint it.

 

I just couldn't stand the yellowing plastic. Turning it inside out is a good option though. Cap should be clean...I dont know why it turned out so dirty

 

Hmm, OK.

Get some Maguires Metal Polish, too. Those AC coolant lines will polish up to a chrome-like finish with almost no effort at all. And the master cylinder part under your wrist-band; (the thing with the "H" inked on it) will also clean up nicely with metal polish.

Basically, once you start looking at the details, you'll have all kinds of little projects to keep you busy. Like the painted surfaces on the inside-fenders.

 

I need to get some metal polish for the same reason. Also exhaust tips.

 

Im usually a cleaning **** about my engine bay but with all the work going on in it lately it has gone down hill FAST. I always try to keep the top of the fender clean in and around the strut bolts but thats where I rest my tools and it always gets so dirty. I've replaced about all of the hoses as you can see the brake booster is new and the next project is going to be all of the metal lines

 

Regular cleaning under the hood is the only way to maintain a sharp look.
Judging by the master cap, you havn't cleaned in quite a while.
God only knows what's hiding under the sweat sock.

 

A reservoir thats 16 years old and looks like crap

 

Regarding the AC coolant lines, mine have like a film over them that I can not seem to get off. It is a light green color. It seems to be like mold or something and even after using a wire brush, brillo, and scotch brite I can not get all of it off. Some came off, but not even close to all of it. What the hell will take this off?

 

For hoses I like the braided stainless steel sleeves.......thats what Im going for.



The ones with the blue end clamps to go with engine bay theme.

 

Steel-braid is always sexy. So is nylon braid. Both are a little over the top, too, but undeniably pretty stuff...

...when brand new. After a while, braided hoses in a daily driver start to look like pooh.