No, not the TB. I'm asking about the sensor that's bolted to the UIM near the TB. There's a 1/2" vacuum line going in from the VC (I think) and out to the UIM. Now, I know I need to get schooled on the IACV, but all the relevant threads are discussion the 5.0 gen, not the 5.5. And then there's this:

So what is that thing?

 

it's another evap sensor. You can hook up some sort of diagnostic tool to the port under the green cap

 

The green cap is an evap port in case one wants to smoke the system for leaks.

 

keep it clean. scrub away the dirt.



i need to work on mine

 

Thank you, Roy. Page EC-37 in the Field Service Manual.

It's the "Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve".

I was just wondering... this would look a lot better if it were relocated under the engine cover.

 

Upgrading to hardpipes would look better and decrease your boost lag....

 

You know something, 5.5 Gen owners... take that engine cover off, and there are like 2 dozen rusty old bolts all over the engine which could be swapped out for something new and stainless steel. The left valve cover bolts, for example. And a whole bunch of retainer brackets bolted here and there.

An idea which takes this engine bay make-over one step further.

 

It does look better. Check it out:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...yone-done.html

 

Any of you guys ever replace your Negative Battery Cable with something new and clean? It looks like a rotting old garden snake strapped to the tranny.

YIKES! I just looked it up: the OEM negative battery cable is almost $50!

In fact, the more I look at my engine bay (been doing a lot of that lately no ish) the more I'm observing how the various ground connections to the frame are corroded. Hmm. I should probably unbolt them, sand them down, and bolt them back up again. Yes?

And what about the dozen or so wiring harness connectors? I can't even begin to name them all, but they're all dirty, with 8 years of grime deep into the nooks & crannys and individual wire inlets.

How do you clean those? I'm guessing you disconnect the battery first, and let the car sit for a day so the connectors dry before firing things back up. But again, how do you clean all those things?

 

It may sound weird, but while re-assembling my car ( a 2K1 max ) I cleaned all the connectors/socket with some WD40 and a tooth brush, it work like a charm and restore them like they are brand new. Off course that wont get rid of the rust on metal connection (that's another story ) but I also cleaned many rubber hoses with the WD40 and it remove all the dirt and make them shine and look like brand new.

There might be a specific product, but on a late night ( store were closed ) I just picked up a can of WD40 laying around in the garage and find out it does a pretty good job.

Sorry I forgot: As for the ground, I simply use a dremmel with a metal brush and get rid of the rust fairly quick. Good luck.

My 2 cents

 

WD40? But that's a lubricant. IDK, man... that seems not right to me for some reason.

What about using MAF cleaner on wiring connectors? And then blow them out with a can of compressed air? (I have a can of both that I could try out.) That seems like a harmless idea.

 

Trust me it work really well with the WD40 and I never experienced a hose or a connector degrading because the product is too strong. If you dont believe me just simply try it on a radiator hose and you'll gimme news. I'll try to post some pics later tonight.

 

rochester, look for an electrical contact cleaner, It will come with the little red pipette to get into all the small places. And it evaporates very quickly. We use LPS electrical contact cleaner at work all the time. It gets rid of water too like wd-40 but doesn't leave an oily residue

 

Isn't MAF cleaner that same thing?

 

I'd like to see some more VQ30 pics

 

I use WD40 to clean stains off carpets as well. Works like a charm.

 

Here you go...

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...-tie-down.html

 

Nobody is stopping you, champ. Go right ahead.

 

I'm not sure, I know the maf is a "hot wire" so it is probably very close. So i think it is ok to use on other electrical stuff as well. But I prefer to save the maf cleaner for the maf.

 

That's what I was thinking, that MAF cleaner *is* electrical connector cleaner, just specialized. I've got this spray can of MAF cleaner banging around somewhere, and since my MAF is brand new, and I use a dry filter... thought I'd put it to good use.

I'll try it on something later tonight.

 

How about a new ground wire kit from the member here? You can even get them in red. IIRC, it's only $55 or so.

 

the g35 guys and the 350z guys have access to chrome/aluminum anodized caps for the power steering, windshield washer and brake cylinder reservoirs. Too bad the company doesn't seem to make them anymore.
I'd post a pic but my internet security program won't let me log on to g35 forum

 

There are simple spring-clamps on most of the little hoses... I wonder how they would hold up if they were painted? Should probably buy some new ones, and paint them with high-temp satin black. That's another idea which has been rattling around my head, looking at the engine bay.

You're right about WD40 on rubber hoses. It cleans them up with a nice, uniform black look. The result isn't so much a glossy shine, rather it's a satin black. Very subtle to the touch. I like it. Nice idea, WD40. I need to play with this some more.

MAF cleaner didn't work so well. I need to get some Electrical Contact cleaner and a few large toothbrushes.

 

Contact cleaner likely won't work so well either, as it evapourates so quickly. Try the Wd-40 - spray it, scrub it, and wipe it away. Then, if you want to ensure good contact, go at the area again with contact cleaner and wipe away quickly. Reattach connection and give a light spray of WD or even better a rust inhibitor such as rust check. (Not sure if Rust Check is available in the States).

 

K but here's my question/concern with WD40. Is it gonna attract dust if you clean hoses etc with it?

 

The best thing to use for detailing your bay, is to use vinyl protectant. Its give a nice muted shine dosent attract dirt, and it protects the hoses and rubber items in the car.

Here is a detailing how to i wrote on my sentra site. I sponsor the detailing section and there are a few helpful how to's on there. I hope this help some of you guys.
http://www.thespecvboard.com/vb/vbul...ead.php?t=6441

 

Paint the clips with por 15 rust paint. Its flexible wont chip or peel

 

Hey, I just had an idea! I use "303 Aerospace Protectant" on my dashboard etc. I absolutely love the matte finish it gives compared to other protectant cleaners, and it holds up really well. I'm gonna try it on the various parts of my engine bay. I bet it'll work really well. Just a heads up to anyone who hasn't used 303 before. TRY IT! It's amazing... especially if you hate that shiny "Armor-All" finish on your dash. 303 brings out the black (or whatever color your dash is) and looks really great. (there's my product promotion for the day )

 

Thank you, sir. Good advice.

Um, doesn't seem to come in a spray can, however.

 

no it does not. you will need a very tiny brush or an air brush.

 

Ever use Stove Bright paints? I picked up a can at the Fireplace Store this evening on the way home from work. The paint quality is outstanding, and very even. No sputters or runny paint.

Bought a can of "Metalic Charcoal" to paint the spring clamps, and to repaint my FSTB brackets, so they all match my radiator retainers.

I'll post up a picture when they're done.



[edit]

This paint is too flat. Spring clamps look much better painted, but I think I want something metalic glossy. I'm going to hold off on painting the FSTB brackets until I find a paint I like.

 

Mine just came back from sand blasting

 

What just came back? What were you having done?

I realized this morning that I must have done my little spray painting projects too near to the car over the last few days. There's a rough feel to the paint, which can only be overspray drifting down on to the car. This is very distressing, particularly considering how nicely maintained I've been keeping the painted surfaces.

Wax and cleaners don't seem to do a damn thing. I think I need to break out the old orbital buffer.

Kind of unhappy right now. Look away while I cry...

 

^ You could try to clay bar it, i had the same thing happen, i cant remember if it got it all off but worth a try i guess ha

 

Thanks, tdabboud. I've never used clay before, but it seems pretty straight-forward, and exactly what I need to do to fix this problem. I'm pretty sure I brought this on myself, not spray painting far away enough from the car. I feel like such an idiot.

So now I've got another (unplanned) car project to tackle. Oh well... there are worse hobbies.

 

I sent my strut mounts out for sandblasting, and i plan to paint them with por 15, then I will do the rad mounts and a few other pieces. Also ordered the front two water pipes that sit in front of the engine. They will be painted with por 15 as well. And the 2 oil cooler lines

 

You've already got it figured out John. Give it a Clay and you'll be good as new.
The good thing is, its not difficult and you are already a detail oriented kind of guy so you might even enjoy it !

 

Hey John, I recommend Meguiars professional clay. They have a mild and a medium. Comes in a plastic tub. Grab an empty spray bottle and put a teaspoon of dawn and fill it with water to use as your lubricant

 

I bought some Meguiars clay and did the hood and roof just now, then over that with Meguiars Tech Wax 2.0, and...

OMG! OMG! OMG!


C L A Y B A R !


How did I ever get to this point in my life and not know how to use this?

That is all.

 

Ha thats great man! I am glad it worked out for you Clay bar is a magical thing, it really smooths out the paint and a lot of imperfections