http://www.apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6132.pdf

 

Only if I could download it on my cellphone...... my vafc is hooked up and working fine... I have browsed that manual before and to be honest there is a bunch of things that I don't know... I just see drawings lls, I just wanna intall this intake, change sensor type, add about 3% fuel across the board to help me get by til dyno day so I don't wreck my engine

 

Save the money you would use for a dyno tune and buy a wideband.

 

Best play it smart safe and do it that way.

 

Where can I get that???...

 

Anywhere.

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...ther-info.html

 

so is there anyone right now that has all the right tuning equipment that is able to take on the task yet?
im eager to get this thing running cuz even with the engine running crappy i noticed a difference in acceleration

 

I'd put it in essentials hands .. or get a NEO or SAFC ... that is of course for the people that don't already have a VAFC.

I've had many many PM/AIM covnos with various 5th gen members on this subject, and all of them seem to have given up or bought other cars, or any combination of those 2.

It's also pretty well covered in all or most of the BBMAF threads created by myself, 6spd_Hayes, and a few others.

 

I know how to use google but there is more than 1 types of widebands am I not correct???.....

 

Tons of different brands, see which you fits your budget and suits your application.

Zeitronix is probably, IMO best bang for buck.

 

ebay has the cheapest prices from what i've seen. I'm gonna get the AEM UEGO because...

In the future I'll be using the EU. So for now I'll just eye the guage.

 

AEM UEGO > * If going w/ EU in the future... Because //

As we know the EU can be tuned to a certain AFR, not just "ZOMG!!11 let me run a buncha times and try n get 13.5!!11one!!!"


.. No, AEM UEGO = I tell Mr EU I want 13.5, he says ok Mr. UEGO, let's work on that for him so he doesn't have to.

amirite?


I myself have a PLXR300, nice interface as I've posted before, fully customizable with 2 speed inputs(MPH/RPM) and 3 0-5v inputs (ECT/MAF/AFR/TPS)

And the nice little readout controller is also a nice touch for 'street tuning'.

 

cute

 

Just found out something a little OT but pretty interesting about the vafc.

We already know that it can control when the VI opens for 4th gen guys (and us 5th genners that wanna change the switch over point). But we can also set it so that it stays open even when the RPM drops past the initial activation point.

So lets say you have the VI set to open at 5k rpm. You do a run past 5k and the VI opens up. When you shift, if the rpm falls below 5k the VI will close, then re-open when you pass 5k again. You can set the vafc to tell the VI to close at say... 4k rpm instead so it just stays open through the gear change.

Is this beneficial to us? I have no idea. But it's just a little something that can potentially be useful.

Back on topic now.

 

that could be helpful so maybe i could tune up high with the bbmaf but would that be in the v/t cont part of the VAFC2?

 

Actually, now that I think about it, try this first...

Scratch the 24 points of correction for now. Just use the 12 from the lvt for now since you have luck tuning in that range. Just spread the 12 out to redline. Either zero out the switch over point or just set it to something like 7k so it doesnt activate and switch to the second map. If this works for you, then something is wrong with the way you set it to switch to the hvt map.

 

I'd say it's a good thing since the car does not need to over come the initial launch therefore does not need the extra torque from the VI being closed, since it will already be in motion, that's a good thing. Also, we have all seen the small dip that occurs during the opening of said power vavle/rod. I still think you & Moncef should gut the IM & rid yourselves completely of the VI since you're blessed w/5MT.

 

I wouldnt say I was "blessed". Mocef was because his came 5 speed. lol I had to work for my 5 speed.

A friend of mine has a spare 00VI with a broken cup. I'm trying to convince him to donate it to me but he doesnt wanna get rid of it. I'd have that thing gutted and installed before he could blink. Does anyone have a spare upper for cheap or that I can borrow?

 

5spd VLSD

 

Maybe this is a bad idea as I don't have any adanced tuning device except the VAFCII... will the car be idling and running fine with the 1in 17out???

 

So I already installed and took off the LR MAF... on the VAFCII it only goes up to 15 out.... the idle was very weak so I'm gonna re install my 4th gen intake for now.... so I guess you can use me as reference... I tried 1in 15out, 1in 10out, 1in 6out, 2in 6out and none worked... idk if the car is running rich or lean when you barely tap on the gas the exhaust pops... id guess rich due to the car tryna break down the gas

 

it depends on what you set it too. if there was a 17 out this topic wouldn't exist. get a wideband before just try things not knowing whats going on with the engine. 1in 3 out works... somewhat. without one you can detonate your engine.

 

i will try this out im going to the track on friday i will try and run some with the bbmaf and stock and see if there is any difference even though there isnt going to be a tune for the WOT point.

 

Ill try the 1in 3out tomorow
EDIT: today

 

Try 3in/6 out.

Regarding the 17 out ... did you not read my posts in your other thread?

 

Yea I read it... I was gonna try that too....

 

Also try opposite of that too... might cancel out, but might work too.

 

so the thunderstorm wrecked my install/experiment today... this seems like it will be a loong process

 

As in? Messing with settings ... or buying a WB, etc?

 

both... ill probebly search here for a used wideband

 

Also check my350z and g35driver...

 

what about this???... im going cheap

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WHITE...Q5fAccessories

 

A couple more dollars and you get one that we all know works fine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-G...ts_Accessories

 

so i went to the track and tried out the new housing. i only did 2 runs with it in cuz i was short on time. since it wasnt tuned anywhere close to properly i dont think this data is too valid.
i ran and 11.3 and 11.5 in the 1/8 mile. trapping at 55.
the issue this time is the car would bog down low until it hit 4k and then it would rip through like usual. i think if i can tune it down low so the gas doesnt puddle then we could see some gains even if it runs full rich at WOT.
i will try and go to the track again next week with more time so i can actually tune using data logging.

 

and this is all ill ever need???

 

yea, and a good tune.

 

Do you have headers?

 

nope. its a 3.0 no need. i do have y-pipe. im not going to get into that discussion about headers n y-pipe though.

question with the tune: is it possible to get the car to send into wide open throttle sooner? it would be nice to have the power kick in sooner especially when throttle is over 80%. i noticed i dont have nearly as much torque down low as i do up top. i get torque steer around 4800 rpm all the way through the shift point in both 1st n 2nd of my 4at.

 

No need for headers? Srsly, Headers are required for maximum performance..

 

+1. But he probably deemed it more economical to get the y-pipe. Cost vs performance benefit kind of thing...