Got the AEM UEGO for 170 shipped brand new on ebay.

 

not doing this mod just learning.Here is a link to a place where i just got hoses for my '09 i noticed they have upto 8" dia and connectors for those of you looking for larger intake tubing and adapters.
http://www.hiprospeed.com/

 

Once upon a time people said catbacks don't do anything at all for our car. Then came the dyno proven results of Cattman's 3" system.

Now we see the increase of performance with the BBMAF, after I read up a little people said boring out the TB's wouldn't make any difference as well, so shouldn't all three mods in conjunction = basically pure awesomeness and super WHP?

 

I remember those days..... but ur about right with all of the above it should be like sex

 

Instead of 'boring it out' (TB), maybe we should fine a compatible unit that's larger, say from a Mustang or something.

 

Would finding a compatible TB be easier for Drive-by wire or Drive by cable applications?

 

This looks interesting.

 

5.5gen+ guys will have the most trouble finding an application. I know SGmotorsports used a 90mm chevy TB for their 350z with custom IM, but that car is far from stock as far as electronics go.

Us 5th gens and our 4th gen couterparts have it way easier. The mustang TB has already been done. The hardest part for us is finding a way to mount the TB to the intake manifold...

 

TBW Mustang units seem to be almost a direct fit.

 

$300 for a tb O_0! However 70mm is a lot more than I could do with a drill press probably. That's like .8cm bigger than our OD isn't it?

EDIT: ohhh stock replacement tho... soooo a junkyard spare one + some machining time = big@$$ TB yeeees?

EDIT 2: Ahhh yes car-parts.com has some for $75.... sounds A LOT better!

 

track should be happening on thursday, the only difference is i have a34 Nismo wheels now so i got more weight so my times may drop. for the record the setup isnt as light as people make it seem. total of 48 lbs with re40a tires. still running this crappy air filter though . money is getting tighter

 

That's horrible. 19" diameter wont help either.

My MMEV5's were 52#'s w/tire in 18" trim,

 

love those A34 nismo's loose at least the 2 fronts

 

no luck on the 1/4 mile details. the track was flooded out so no results with that.

 

time to reopen this thread i still have some questions.
i ran a 15.8 on my 1/4, 10.3 on 1/8, 2.5 60ft... does anyone have stock 3.0 at times i can compare to?
w/ the 3.5" intake aem dryflow i feel like its taking my torque away. i have my narr lvt tuned @+39 idle then taper down to from 20 to about 8 after 1800rpm til hvt switchover. my a/f reads avg 0f 13.4 up top n 14.7 til oovi kicks in.
my pressure reading says its about 5psi until the engine hits 4500k ad shoots up to 9psi, thats WOT. i set my intake pressure scale to 0%. whats is everyone else reading out?
any advice on gaining better speed down low?
i ran w/ 17x8 41lbs total wheel weight in front and a34 nismos in back

 

Get your 60 foots down, try dropping the tire pressure.

Your AFR is too lean, shoot for 12.9-13.1. What's your AFR like at idle? Is it consistent? How about part throttle and cruising?

Those A34s are light for their size, actually. Track-wise, if you wanna get off the line faster, you can run smaller wheels up front (16" or 15") and as long as you can make it stick you'll be quicker down low.

 

I don't have a lot of details on times but my auto 5th gen ran a 15.0@93 with an ebay cold air intake and greddy evo 2 exhaust... that's all I had, I've been to the track maybe 3 times with that car, never went as low as 15.8 though

 

my a/f is 14.4 - 15.2 on idle w/ the bbmaf cruising 14.7 and 13.5 partial
i dont have a problem with launching and thats whats got me stumped. a quick chirp and im off, everyone hear talks about getting the launch and even flooring it i get a chirp or two then im off.
ever since i got my WS ypipe my torque has really dropped so im debating if i should go back to stock.
i have had a lot of front end problems recently but nothing that should affect my speed.

 

How'd you figure your TQ dropped???

 

 

Im willing to bet the **** had suttn to do with this smmfh!

 

You're probably pulling alot of timing... That could be the reason it feels like your TQ dropped.

 

I say he needs to stop listening to his ****......

 

Butt dyno FTL,

Get it on a dyno and look at the shape of the curve. A y-pipe adds torque. But adding fuel through the VAFC pulls timing since it bends the MAF signal.

At this point honestly toss the VAFC and get an SAFC2 or e-Manage Blue/Ultimate, it'll make your task a lot easier and make more power.

 

This ^^^... and preferably when you post anything about HP, TQ, or tune, please leave your **** out of it... it makes things more complicated and its a good way to wreck your ride and mind

 

once i put the y-pipe on i noticed my acceleration down low had dropped horrifically but after time it corrected slightly. then i put the bbmaf on i may just ditch the vafc2 and go to a neo of SAFC. i cant see myself spending much more money on this car, but i do want it running right.
i will start leaving my **** out of it... i didnt consider since i had to tune the idle that it would effect my timing. if i found a way to advance my timing 17 degrees would that help or should just go for the SAFC? the NEO has the 1in17out setting right?

 

Idk about the neo

 

i just bought a neo is has setting up to 26in/out so im hoping this will take care of it. all the wires are the same color from the vafc2 so ii think i dont have to re-splice everything just unclip the extended harness and connect it to the NEO. but im going to quadrouple check it before i do that.

 

the neo is not a direct harness swap i had to rewire it. it was too easy to tune i set it 1-17 and tuned it with a handful of runs... i think the vafc tuned so much for idle affected my fuel pump cuz when i go into gear now the revs drop low and sometimes it stalls.

 

Nice to know that the sensor type settings are the same on the SAFCII and NEO for a larger MAF (1 IN 17 OUT). No one seemed sure about that before. Only problem is if I ever decide to get a bigger MAF, I'll have to get rid of the VAFCII I just bought ... Oh well, I'll probably never go for a BBMAF...

 

i will work with the vafc2 but you got to tune for more gas. i havent been to the track to see the difference in times between the vafc and the neo... i dont really know if there will be a difference.... maybe in my 60ft times

 

well im bumping this thread.
i changed my valve covers today and when i put everything back together and started the maxima up it started to run lean. around 18.8 a/f ratio. so i looked around to see if things werent connected correctly but everything was good. so i decided to mess with the sensor type on my NEO. it was at 1 and 17 then i put it to 1 and 1 and it was running even leaner.
i changed it to 1 and 4 WOT was about -8 points. now it is at -12 from about 3500 rpm. with my previous settings everything before the VI kicked in was 14.7 until The VI hit and then it gave me the ability to tune. now i can tune it from anywhere as long as im in WOT. At WOT before the VI kicks in the a/f is around 13.8 which i never saw under 4k rpm.
do any of you experts have any idea why that happened?

 

Samething is happening to me ever since I installed nwp spacers and new valve cover. What's going on? It idles at 17.0 to 18.0

 

It sounds like an obvious vacuum leak as air is getting in unmetered and causing a lean condition. Look for vac leaks, and if you need to go back and check everything.

 

Thanks bro. Me and mechanic friend went over it and it seems like the kinetix manifold does not line up that good with the nwp spacer and I may need to make an additional spacer out of cork car will go under the scissors ASAP. Lol

 

Is it safe to drive like this by the way?

 

Seems a little lean to me. What are your normal driving AFR's?

 

Need a pinout for the MAFS on the VQ35DE, assistance?
The FSM's I've checked give pins that don't seem to be correct, looking for verification

 

What do you need?

 

14.7 15.1