Had a weird one happen to me yesterday for the first time.....

5.5 Max - 80k miles. Original OEM Rear Brakes + rotors / Hawk HPS pads, with about 30k mi.

I Drove about 10 miles to the store, when i pulled-into parking space -- noticed smoke coming from rt. rear of car (thought it was my EXAHUST!).

Got out to examine, and smoke was POURING from the rear wheel -- obviously brakes due to the smell (not the bearing).

I'm 99% certain I didn't drive 10mi with the E-brake on....
And it was ONLY the Right Rear.

I let it cool - took the tire/wheel off and examined it: nothing out of the ordinary.
I figured due to the high humidity (????) the pad might have "frozen" to the rotor, perhaps after setting the e-brake when I last parked it?!

Dunno.

I was able to drive home with no issues, and no further locking / smoking.

So, do I need to be worried about this?!

Should I take-apart the caliper and do re-greasing of the pins / rebuild the calipers in the near future???
I've got a cupla 500mi roadtrips coming-up, and I'd hate to get stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Advice please.

gr

 

replace the caliper. It happened to our car some months back, i wouldnt trust that caliper.

 

I am having the same issue and my problem is the park cable (right rear) it may be seized and when I pull the park brake handle up it's ok, but when I take it off, the park brake does not retract on the RR....
Next weekend I'be changing both left and right brake cables, by the way does anyone know how to do so? some pictures would be even better

 

Yeah, some rear calipers are known to lock up. I would replace them. If you find a good deal, I would replace both...

 

I'm betting seized caliper.
I had to replace the one on my 2002 this spring. Exact same symptoms, exact same caliper.

(I did both) but the right rear was worse.

 

Replace them. The rear calipers rust on gen maxima all the time.

 

Both my rear calipers froze and I had them replaced.

 

Allways replace them in pair. They usually require more fluid pressure to activate the piston over the years. Therefore, if you change only one, the new one will brake harder than the old one, getting the car to go sideways under hard braking. The front brakes have more incidence on this situation, but still, I would apply the same philosophy for the rear.

Brake calipers require minimal maintenance every two years, dismantle, clean and re lube:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-overhaul.html

 

and/or the older side will wear out first (uneven braking).

 

THanks guys.

Did a little more research - and this seems to be common.
I was actually WONDERING just how many more miles I would be able to get out of the rear brakes before this happened.
I'm lucky it happened like it did....close to home.

I ALWAYS replace in pairs, so no issues there.

I found REBUILD kits for the rear calipers CHEAP @ autozone for $2.99 each....no joke, but that's just the seals. THe replacement boots for the slider pins are another $3.99 each -- still, way cheaper then new calps.
Reman'd Calipers are $69 ea. + $62 core charge.

So, for my money -- I'm going to REBUILD the calipers, replace the rotors, and MAYBE the pads (have to see what they look like when I disassemble).

If anybody else has rebuilt their calipers, chime-in. Curious to hear how it went.

again - thanks for the feedback.....much appreciated!

gr

 

I'm having the same isssue now. Did the rebuild work?

 

Nope.

Pulling-apart all the intricate little pieces and parts, and trying to re-build the calp's was a PITA.
After tearing the first of the seals in the kit, I realized I was over my head.

You need proper practice, and TOOLS. I had Neither.

I went to Autozone and bought Reman's....never looked-back.
Working great a year later.

The ONLY thing I wished I would have done, is to PAINT the Calipers before I put them on the car, but unfortunately, I was in a hurry to get done, and couldn't do it.

The aftermarket calps are not sealed/painted/treated and get VERy rusty after only a short exposure to the elements.
Granted -- they work fine, and have a lifetime warranty -- but they look ugly in comparison to the Nicely laquered/sealed OEM calp's I have up front.

I bought cheap autozone Rotors too....same thing there: not nickel/zinc coated like my RTP's, and they look WAY worse after only a short time, and one winter in the salt.

Minor gripes. Saved a ton of money doing it meself.
Job well-done.

good luck.

gr

 

I am currently at 145k and havent had this issue yet, but I just keep waiting for this to be me. Thought my fronts were bad, but they seem ok.