Maxima-Ness

So this is the second time this has happened. The last time was about a year and a half ago. The clutch pedal stuck all the way down to the floor and I actully had to use my toe to get it to pop back up. I had been in stop and go traffic for about 2 hours and it finally just gave out. Wouldnt let me take it out of any gear or put it any gear. So I sat and waited for AAA. Once they got there, the problem "fixed" itself. The AAA guy said when he owned an older Nissan it happened to him because of the fluid getting overheated. I didnt think anything more of it and went on with life.

Then, today, it happens again! But this time, I had just started the car and began to drive it! Same exacpt problem. I pulled off the road and turned the car off and waited 10 minutes. turned the car back on and presto, it was like nothing ever happened. I called my mecahnic and he said I needed to change my brake fluid. He said DOT 5, but I know everyone on here has said DOT 3/4. I have done a lot of searching and cant find the same exact probelm, but I know I cant be the only one this has ever happened to. So, here are the current specs; 135,000 miles. Havent changed the brake fluid since (probably) 90,000-100,000 miles ago. I used the Motul 5.1 then. So my question is, what is going on? And - *if there is a leak somewhere, should I replace the Master and slave cylinder? What about the SS clutch line? Also, will just flushing and filling the system fix it? Oh, and Please let me know what Brand/DOT fluid is currently the one of choice.

(BTW, just a spirited daily driver - no racing)

Thanks in advance!

ColtMax

Dot 3 or 4 Is fine! Dot 5 is silicone based and might interact badly with some car systems.

http://jimsgarage.wordpress.com/2007...t-4-and-dot-5/

You have to be aware that the Clutch release system does use DOT 3-4 Oil , but is not connected to the brake system.


So as far as your problem goes, it is time for a clutch Slave and Master cylinders replacement! Lucky you, I am going to to replace mine over the weenkend and was planning to do a little "How to" with pictures

anomaly117

iTrader: (3)

SLAVE CYLINDER it happens to all 5th gens around that mileage.

RAZ76

iTrader: (8)

I had the same issue with my 6th gen, pedal sticking to the floor few weeks ago. I would have to pull it with my foot, one day it would not let me put it in any gears.

This is how I fix it. I drained all that el cheapo dot 3 out of the entire system by bleeding like the brakes, two man job and replaced it with Dot 4 synthetic fluid. I also greased the top of the pedal way in the back where it connects to the Master Cylinder with Lithium grease. No more issues since and the car has been sitting in 105 degree weather and that's when it usually gave me problems. No issues since. Try this, it will fix the problem.

vinco

iTrader: (3)

Start by looking carefully at the firewall back behind the clutch pedal. If there are no signs of leakage there, then the clutch master cyl. is probably OK. If any sign of dampness or leakage, then replace the master cyl. Also, go ahead and order up the SS clutch line from Racetech Performance. You just need the short one to replace the factory rubber line. Then get yourself a new clutch slave cylinder from Advance Auto Parts or such store (I'd personally stay away from Auto Zone for this kind of part, but that's just my opinion.) Swap the parts, and refill with DOT 3 or 4 fluid, with a good bleeding of the system to follow. Problems solved.

ColtMax

Only upgrading to dot 4 is not a definitive solution. Problem WILL come back.
Solution from Vinco is the way to go!

Or you could also purchase from Nissan the master and slave rebuild kits

vinco

iTrader: (3)

For what it's worth, anywhere that you buy "Beck-Arnley" parts, they're just re-packaged OEM parts.

RAZ76

iTrader: (8)

It might not but why not try that first before he starts blowing money on crap he don't need. It will cost him under 10 dollars to get dot 4 synthetic fluid and lithium grease. If that solves his problem, then sweet. If not, go on to the next advice. That's just how I do things, try the easy stuff, if that doesn't fix it, move on to the next step. I don't just replace parts just because I think it might be that. I gave him a solution that has worked for me.

Maxima-Ness

Wow! Thanks everybody. I was worried this would be a huge issue. At least knoing what the problem is helps. SO, OEM slave or master parts arent particularly better than what I will find at AutoZone or PepBoys (etc)? Im sure DaveB could do something on the pricing.

Other than that, who do I need to get ahold of to get that SS clutch line?

Oh, and DOT 4 - check. Any particular brand that is better then the other?

thanks again everyone!

Berto210

would I have to bleed the clutch cylinderfluid to drain out the older fluid first? Or can I just add DOT 4 right in?

Akilldema

I've had the same problem in recently as well as a seized rear caliper. I'm going to have to fix the brakes first. If I just continue to pop the pedal back out with my toe for another few weeks, am I risking further harm? Additionally since I cannot post a new thread, can anyone recommend a place for me to buy a rear caliper (or two), rotor(s), and pads for an 00 Maxima SE? Sorry to bog this thread with that.

Berto210

try ebay. i got some from a company called irotor. found a pretty good price for a pads and rotor package.

vinco

iTrader: (3)

rockauto.com

And, if you get around to changing your front rotors, then order up rotors and loaded calipers for a 2003 model Maxima. You can't just do one or the other, though. You have to do the rotors and caliper swap at the same time, since the 2003 rotors are about 3/4" larger diameter. When I say "loaded calipers," it's really the caliper mount brackets that you have to change to go with the 2003 rotors.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

actually it was my line...it was leaking. i havent replaced my slave cylinder yet and i have 180k. knock on wood

SchofieldRacing

Get a good piece of rope, attach one end to the clutch pedal and hold the other in your hand at all times


Actually, I think synthetic fluid and a new master will fix it... The slave should have nothing to do with a pedal on the floor. If your slave went bad, your symptoms would include not getting in and out of gears, but would not include pedal drop. Good Luck!


96 SE Manual with a little bit here and there...

Akilldema

Why the change to the 2003's? I ended up getting a set of rear calipers, rear rotors and rear pads installed by a friend's shop for 240$. Not bad IMO. I was thinking maybe double that. - Again sorry for the threadjack.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

I gotta bump this:

i just bled my clutch (RFI) from the slave to the master, and after closing-up the bleeder on the slave (but not the master reservoir cover) my pedal went to the floor, and won't return.

Never had issues with the clutch, I was just doing preventative maint. today -- the fluid was about 3 years old maybe 30k miles on it. Pretty dirty!
Last time I bled with the "old-style" method with two people, and one pumping the pedal, and me bleeding at the slave.

Did I miss a check-valve or something??

Dunno why there's no pressure in the line -- I gave it a good and proper bleeding with a Phoenix INjector.

Uh - help!?

gr

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

NEVERMIND! I fixed it....

Just needed to pull it UP from the floor with my hands, and give it a few rounds of the "old fashioned" method.

I was by myself, so I had to wedge 2.5' board between the seat and clutch pedal, and then slide the seat forward until the pedal was firm against the firewall.
Thank god for power driver's seat!!
Then I walked back around to the engine compartment, and released the pressure from the bleeder.

Kinda weird having to pull the pedal OFF the floor each time I did this....but it worked. CLutch feels the same as b4 (i was HOPING for an improvement) but that's a hydraulic clutch for you.

Fluid is crisp and clean again -- so, nothing lost.
Sorry for hitting the panic button prematurely.

gr

Maxima-Ness

Lol. Glad others have found this thread helpful. I was happy I wasnt the only one. I just got my SS clutch line, new OEM master and slave cylinder and some DOT 4 (Amsoil) fluid. Bout to get dirty!

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

I'm used to the bleeding/rebuilding clutch slave & master units from my motorcycle -- doing the max was a bit different.

I guess a slave rebuild is on my long-term project list. 80k miles now, and seems to be ok.
Somehow, I always figured I'd need to replace the clutch plates before all the other components.
Done THAT one a few times on the bike too!

Good luck with the project Max-Ness -- let us know how it turns-out.

gr

gdal

iTrader: (2)

I experienced this issue with my Max today. I filled up the clutch master cylinder (was completely empty), but I can't get no pressure.

BTW ... I don't have the time to do it, so I'm going to drop it at the shop tomorrow. How much do you guys think this is going to cost? replacing both the master cylinder and the slave.

chimaxima

I was there too all i did was just refill slave cylinder and pump really hard to build some pressure and i was back on the road again.

AEMAXIMA01

iTrader: (3)

I seem to be having this problem on my 01 as well. On the way to the bank this morning and pulled into a parking spot, car died (it was in gear and I let some pressure off of the pedal) and the pedal was stuck depressed. Pulled it back up and started right back up. Did the same thing a minute later, and a couple more times on the way back to the apartment (never died again, but the pedal was stuck depressed).

A little bit of background info: About a month and a half ago the clutch pedal started to lose significant pressure and I took it to my mechanic, he replaced the master cylinder. I went to pick it up and the pedal still didn't feel right, so I left it and he replaced it again (the new part was apparently faulty). Got it back again and it has felt fine since.

I haven't had a chance to check for leakage, but I don't see anything on the ground under the car (would it leak sitting still or just while in use?). Any help would be appreciated (and I'm sorry for thread-jacking). Car has 94k on it now.

gdal

iTrader: (2)

well I got my car back ... the mechanic replaced the slave cylinder and a clutch line. Everything back to normal. I guess these two items were going bad when I first got the car (a few months ago). The clutch pedal is working so smooth now.

BlackHawk3G

I had my hose leak for the past 1 1/2 months but i just refilled the clutch resivore with more brake fluid, clutch pedal is alittle shoft but i guess i got use to it... just wondering how much would i cost to replace the hose? because i looked around every local car parts store and they didn't have them.

here is a picture

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Better replace it before it leaves you stranded. Cheap and fast to do.
I had a local hot rod shop make up a stainless line for mine for about 20 bucks in about 15 minutes. I had them do a long replacement line for my 4th gen as well. That one was almost 40. Call around your city or visit the GD section here on the org if you can wait for shipping.

gdal

iTrader: (2)

You can either get the OEM hose from DaveB (around 40-50 bucks) or you can get a SS braided one sold here by one of the org members for half of that.

I went OEM 'cause the factory one lasted 10 years / 80k. Not bad if you ask me.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

That price is off a bit. It's about 20 bucks for the OEM from DaveB.

gdal

iTrader: (2)

If I recall right, I think that's the price I saw on the Courtesy Nissan website.

I actually got it locally 'cause I needed to repair it fast. I got robbed ... $89.00 at the stealership.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Just noticed you have a 5th gen which is a similar set-up to my 4th I believe. The OP has a 5.5 which is the reason for the price discrepancy.