Ok, so I recently swapped out my 2k2 MAF (shot) for a 2k1 MAF. I did the thermistor swap, and even soldered the thermistor in place. I did this about 2 months ago, and just had the codes pulled at the dealership today. One was P0113 - for the IAT Sensor/Circuit. Why would it be throwing this code and how can I test the circuit? Is there one specific wire going to the MAF that is for the thermistor? Could the thermistor be bad? My car runs just fine since I did the MAF swap, and I haven't noticed a performance decrease... Anyone know what's going on and how I can test for the problem/fix it?

 

Ok, I think I solved the problem... I was reading previous threads on similar problems, and one person found that the green wire on the end of the MAF plug was disconnected... so... I used a multimeter and found out that mine isn't making a full connection (when I'd push the wire in, there'd be a ~4.5V signal, and when I'd lightly pull on the wire, there was nothing... so, I firmly pushed the wire in, put everything back together, and went for a test drive.... I don't have a code reader to see if the IAT code is gone, and it may all be in my head, but the car seemed to pull a lot harder after about 3000rpms! Is this even possible?? Could a disconnected IAT sensor cause performance to suffer? I bet the connection to the IAT has been bad ever since I changed out the MAF when my last one blew, and I didn't even know I was lacking in performance!

Again, can a disconnected IAT sensor decrease performance?

 

The ECU needs to know what the intake temperature is to know how much fuel the engine needs, so I guess if it doesn't get a reading it can't optimized the air/fuel ratio for the temperature of the air going through the intake.

 

Yeah... well I adjusted/soldered that connection that I thought might be loose in the MAF plug... my car seems to drive better (but it might just be in my head, my butt dyno is really crappy)... and I don't have any way to pull codes, so who really knows if I fixed it.