Does anyone have any actual pics of the ES motor mount inserts for our cars? I can find "representative images", but nothing specific, so far.

I'm thinking about calling in a favor with a polyurethane company I do business with, but I need measurements or specs or something. Anybody have a pair laying around they haven't gotten around to installing yet?

I'm pretty sure I can get an exact fit insert cut, for the autos like mine, so we don't have to buy the manual mounts at added expense. That's the plan, anyway.....

 

I suppose you're talking about the torque mounts, right?

At the moment, no one makes solid poly bushings for the tranny mount and passenger mount. So are you going to do those, too? And if so, is this a one-off, or are you looking for a group buy?

 

This is something I've been thinking about doing for a while now.

 

Correct, John, for now, just the "front and rear" mounts. Mine are electric, I believe, at least the front is if I'm understanding correctly, I haven't looked to confirm, but I'm not interested in retaining that feature anyway. I'm looking to be able to replace my motor mounts as cheaply as possible, and I don't appreciate having no alternative but to buy manual mounts on top of the inserts.

I'm sure the "left and right" inserts could also be done, given a good sample to spec out. For now, I was just being selfish, and not looking into heading up any kind of group buy or whatever, honestly. And since the side mounts seemingly rarely fail, I wasn't expecting much "demand" for them.

If the vendor doesn't mind fielding requests from Org'ers, I'll gladly get y'all in touch with them, but if they'd prefer to produce them in batches, and me be the "point man", well that shouldn't be any problem either.

If they feel confident they can (and do) provide me with a good product using nothing more than an email or phone conversation (I mean, as far as I can tell, we're talking about a cylinder with a hole in the middle of it) then I'll "branch out" to the side mounts as well. Let me start with being satisfied with what I want/need, before I get too involved with this. Crawl before walking, right?

 

Cheapest route is to buy used M/T motor mounts for $10 ea from the bone yard....... burn the old rubber out and cut the ES MM insert in half and install easy as hell! The side mounts (trans and passenger) fill them with 3M window weld......This entire mod is easy as hell. just unplug the electronic motor mount and call int the day.....

 

Take the rubber out of what you got, or go to the junkyard and get a set...... I'm doin it now and the es bushings are $80, plus I'm hoping to get the mounts...

 

Thanks, guys, for the replies, and let me re-state: I understand the route others have taken, and the costs incurred.

Sure, going to the junkyard and buying manual mounts and then spending ~$80 on ES inserts isn't a huge deal, I agree.

I guess it's just the way my brain's wired, I'm always looking for alternatives/options, and a better price. Usually, more options=lower cost.

I'm doing it this way because I can, simply put. I have the contacts, I have the "pull", if you will. I know who to ask for what, so why not?

BTW, I gave up on the ES inserts, as usual, I was overthinking my approach. I've got a pair of front and rear mounts coming into the local dealer parts department. When they arrive, I'm gonna bring a digital mic/caliper and go put my hands on 'em, take a buncha measurements and pics.

That way, I give my Poly guy what our exact motor mount specs are. They don't have to "copy" an ES insert, which, if I'm thinking correctly, aren't correct for the Auto applications anyway.

So, again, if they can (and do) hook me up with a correct product at a better price, I'll take the same approach with the side mounts.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...or-mounts.html

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...t-success.html

Plenty more where those came from

 

Had a chance to briefly see what my frt/rr motor mounts are supposed to look like the other day, and I was surprised to notice that Nissan offset the center hole in the mounts, up, by say 1/2", when I thought the ES mounts had the bolt hole straight through the middle.

So I went searching, and sure enough, found a post detailing this exact design.

I wanted to clarify, because something doesn't seem right. If it were simply the front and rear mounts holding our engine in, then yeah, I could see moving the engine down a little wouldn't hurt anything, but how do the two side mounts allow enough engine drop for the ES mounts to be utilized?

I'm about to go take detailed measurements of the things, and get my poly cylinders cut, but wanted to make sure I'm on the right trail.

 

I didn't compare them side-by-side last year, but there have been lots of comments like this about the OEM bushings having an offset center. It helps explain why some people have issues with FSTB clearance from the IM with spacers, and some people don't.

 

Top two pics are of the front mount, bottom three are of the rear. Notice the offsets of the bolts' sleeves, how they're not exactly through the middle of the mount like the ES inserts are? How are y'all getting the ES mounts to work?

Do the side mounts have just enough "give" in the rubber, so that they drop just enough to allow the front and rear mounts to line up? That's the only thing I can figure.....

So far, these seem really easy to duplicate using polyurethane cylinders of the appropriate OD, cut to the appropriate length. Drill a hole through the middle, shove a sleeve in and done.

What would be the argument against cutting the inserts the length of the bolts' sleeve, rather than the length of the mount itself? The framework of the engine-side mounts would hold everything in place, from what I gather. Is that how the ES inserts are? Do they stick out past the mount? I can't see how that would hurt anything.

 

This my front mount, mind you I have a custom insert that was pressed into place as my car is an automatic and the front mount is larger than the ES mount come in which is why all the guys suggest to use the manual mounts and then the ES mount press in quite nicely.

Might want to consider changing the smaller upper and lower bushings while you have the crossmember dropped out ... they go for about 20.00 for the 4 upper and 4 lower

 

Thanks Ghost, that's what I'm looking at doing.

I've got an auto also, so I'm having a set of front and rear inserts made that don't require a stick's rear mount swap.

In the essence of keeping the costs down, I'm asking the guys to just pour me a cylinder that's the length of the bolts' sleeves so there's no extra shaving/shaping/working of the cylinder required. I don't see a problem with that approach, anyone?

I came up with 3.75" for both the front and rear cylinders' length. The sleeve is exactly .5" ID, and the front mount is 3.9" ID, the rear 3.5".

So again, seems pretty simple to replicate, I was thrown at first by the bolt's sleeves being lifted north of center, but it seems the side mounts allow for just enough droop so it's not an issue having the inserts' sleeves located in the middle.

Can't wait to get my hands on 'em!

 

BlackMacks,

Any updates? I am interested in changing my mounts as well and would love to hear some of your feedback.

Ghost, hello from Canada . Those upper and lower bushings on the cross member, is that the price from the dealer? How was their condition when you pulled them out?

 

I installed the ES bushings on my 95:

Used a 20 ton shop press to bust the old bushing out

Hacksawed out the metal ring, then used a cold chisel and hammer to bang the rest of the ring out.

Used a bench vice and synthetic grease to squish the new bushing in (the easiest part of the process)

 

Here's what the stock mounts and sub bushings looked like before replacing them with the ES Motor Mount & Sub Bushings.

 

If I remember correctly the auto mounts are 100mm diameter, but I don't remember how wide they are. plus you have to remember the offset which points to the pasenger side of the car

The OEM mount bolt holes look off center without load. Put a load on them and the fluid inside will compress to about center, or close enough. See the "tear" which allows the center of the mount to change position.

Dont forget also that the ES mounts have a metal bushing/sleeve inside the poly mount which the bolt goes through.