video of buzzing noise coming from my starter
video of buzzing noise coming from my starter
hey guys i got some hesitation issues at low throttle, its alot worse when cold, i have replaced tons of stuff and nothing is working, while i was playing around under the hood with the acc. on and played with the throttle i get this weird buzzing sound from my starter. it seems to start buzzing at the same throttle position as my hesitation, something is shorting out i think and its not giving enough juice to my coils, fuel injectors and pump... the buzzing noise always stays the same but the hesitation almost vanishes once warm but its still there for sure, i can feel it when taking off from a red light, and when cruising with the throttle in position. when its cold i only feel it at takeoff and low speeds and not cruising..... i think lol. im starting to think why i notice it so much when its cold is because all of my fluids are cold (freezing temps around here)and once they warm up it is not nearly as noticeable. but anyways heres the link to the noise im hearing.... any suggestions or ideas where to start????
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...10112-1656.mp4
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...10112-1656.mp4
Definatley something I've never seen....very interested in the answer to this quiz. My first thought is a faulty TPS sensor (the sensor you unplugged). I know the old 3rd gen TPS's would start to develop bad spots along the circuit (I understand it's a potentiometer design) and would result in "blips" or what seemed like misfires at certain throttle positions...but never heard anything related to it resulting in a short/feedback into another system. I know your car is a 5th gen, but simply relating what I have experienced.
You've shown a clear connection with the action of moving the throttle with the (clearly) electrical noise. Without looking at the FSM wiring diagram to trace how this is occuring to make sense of it, I would start at the TPS. Maybe a local .Orger would allow you to test swap their sensor onto your car so you would not have the cost of buying a new TPS. Of course I would not test yours on their car because if it is shorted there is too great a risk of possible damage.
A "band-aid" fix, should you not be able to identify the point of the short, might be to bypass the starter relay through the ignition switch by installing a push button start system on the car.
One thing you could do which could help verify a short and in which cirucuit....you can get a circuit tester from Harbor Freight for $12. You remove a fuse in your fuse box and plug in the device. Turn it on and it will tell you what, if any, drain there is on your system as a result of a short. In your case, you would have to turn on the device and then press upon the gas pedal to see the short. I suggest this because it could help trace where the short if moving through...ignition, eng cont, etc....might help narrow things down.
You've shown a clear connection with the action of moving the throttle with the (clearly) electrical noise. Without looking at the FSM wiring diagram to trace how this is occuring to make sense of it, I would start at the TPS. Maybe a local .Orger would allow you to test swap their sensor onto your car so you would not have the cost of buying a new TPS. Of course I would not test yours on their car because if it is shorted there is too great a risk of possible damage.
A "band-aid" fix, should you not be able to identify the point of the short, might be to bypass the starter relay through the ignition switch by installing a push button start system on the car.
One thing you could do which could help verify a short and in which cirucuit....you can get a circuit tester from Harbor Freight for $12. You remove a fuse in your fuse box and plug in the device. Turn it on and it will tell you what, if any, drain there is on your system as a result of a short. In your case, you would have to turn on the device and then press upon the gas pedal to see the short. I suggest this because it could help trace where the short if moving through...ignition, eng cont, etc....might help narrow things down.
Thanks dude! That will help me narrow it down. One question... What if I fire the car up and pull the starter relay, will that do any damage? I can then,with it removed determine if the hesitation is gone? Yes! Potentiometer, that's the word I was looking for in the vid! I have tested the tps it was at .48 and had a good sweep. But I don't think that means its f***ed. I've heard people say adding a ground wire helps with other issues would it be worth it to ground starter to bat. Block to frame? Or.....?
Definatley something I've never seen....very interested in the answer to this quiz. My first thought is a faulty TPS sensor (the sensor you unplugged). I know the old 3rd gen TPS's would start to develop bad spots along the circuit (I understand it's a potentiometer design) and would result in "blips" or what seemed like misfires at certain throttle positions...but never heard anything related to it resulting in a short/feedback into another system. I know your car is a 5th gen, but simply relating what I have experienced.
You've shown a clear connection with the action of moving the throttle with the (clearly) electrical noise. Without looking at the FSM wiring diagram to trace how this is occuring to make sense of it, I would start at the TPS. Maybe a local .Orger would allow you to test swap their sensor onto your car so you would not have the cost of buying a new TPS. Of course I would not test yours on their car because if it is shorted there is too great a risk of possible damage.
A "band-aid" fix, should you not be able to identify the point of the short, might be to bypass the starter relay through the ignition switch by installing a push button start system on the car.
One thing you could do which could help verify a short and in which cirucuit....you can get a circuit tester from Harbor Freight for $12. You remove a fuse in your fuse box and plug in the device. Turn it on and it will tell you what, if any, drain there is on your system as a result of a short. In your case, you would have to turn on the device and then press upon the gas pedal to see the short. I suggest this because it could help trace where the short if moving through...ignition, eng cont, etc....might help narrow things down.
You've shown a clear connection with the action of moving the throttle with the (clearly) electrical noise. Without looking at the FSM wiring diagram to trace how this is occuring to make sense of it, I would start at the TPS. Maybe a local .Orger would allow you to test swap their sensor onto your car so you would not have the cost of buying a new TPS. Of course I would not test yours on their car because if it is shorted there is too great a risk of possible damage.
A "band-aid" fix, should you not be able to identify the point of the short, might be to bypass the starter relay through the ignition switch by installing a push button start system on the car.
One thing you could do which could help verify a short and in which cirucuit....you can get a circuit tester from Harbor Freight for $12. You remove a fuse in your fuse box and plug in the device. Turn it on and it will tell you what, if any, drain there is on your system as a result of a short. In your case, you would have to turn on the device and then press upon the gas pedal to see the short. I suggest this because it could help trace where the short if moving through...ignition, eng cont, etc....might help narrow things down.
Hold the phone.......I noticed in the video that there were dash lights on and you stated that you had the Ign. sw. at the Accessory position????? That's not right. I went to my car and as I expected in "Acc" the clock and radio lights were the only ones illuminated. BUT......with the Ign. sw. "On" mine is making the exact same sound down low in the engine compartment as yours is when I move the throttle just like you did, (and of course a bunch of instrument lights are on). Are you sure that your Ign. sw. is not in the "On" position in the video??
Last edited by P. Samson; Jan 12, 2011 at 09:42 PM.
Sorry. It could very well be on ign. On. My mistake.... I'm so confused.... Yours makes the same sound you say???
Hold the phone.......I noticed in the video that there were dash lights on and you stated that you had the Ign. sw. at the Accessory position????? That's not right. I went to my car and as I expected in "Acc" the clock and radio lights were the only ones illuminated. BUT......with the Ign. sw. "On" mine is making the exact same sound down low in the engine compartment as yours is when I move the throttle just like you did, (and of course a bunch of instrument lights are on). Are you sure that your Ign. sw. is not in the "On" position in the video??
Yes, same sound (along with some light clicks).......I didn't attempt to locate the source, and I looked at the FSM and I don't know what is making the sound.......it's sounds very "electronic" and it seems related to the TPS output voltage. The locating of the source of a sound on a big chunk of aluminum like the engine can fool you. It is not related to the starter system. Can you make a video of when you get the hesitation and/or the lights "flickering"?
Last edited by P. Samson; Jan 12, 2011 at 10:39 PM.
hey guys i got some hesitation issues at low throttle, its alot worse when cold, i have replaced tons of stuff and nothing is working, while i was playing around under the hood with the acc. on and played with the throttle i get this weird buzzing sound from my starter. it seems to start buzzing at the same throttle position as my hesitation, something is shorting out i think and its not giving enough juice to my coils, fuel injectors and pump... the buzzing noise always stays the same but the hesitation almost vanishes once warm but its still there for sure, i can feel it when taking off from a red light, and when cruising with the throttle in position. when its cold i only feel it at takeoff and low speeds and not cruising..... i think lol. im starting to think why i notice it so much when its cold is because all of my fluids are cold (freezing temps around here)and once they warm up it is not nearly as noticeable. but anyways heres the link to the noise im hearing.... any suggestions or ideas where to start????
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...10112-1656.mp4
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...10112-1656.mp4
got ur solution ill try and put up a video but ive noticed that when i first start up my maxima there is a distinctive electtronic servo sound ( have u ever heard an electric rc car when u turn the sterring from left to right thats what my car sounds like)it only sounds like that when a vaccuum is applied other than that it buzzes
give me a few and ill do a video just like u did with the car in acc
Last edited by travdingle; Jan 13, 2011 at 08:16 AM.
got ur solution ill try and put up a video but ive noticed that when i first start up my maxima there is a distinctive electtronic servo sound ( have u ever heard an electric rc car when u turn the sterring from left to right thats what my car sounds like) it sounds as if an eltric sero motor has gone bad give me a few and ill do a video just like u did with the car in acc
i dont think thats the problem for the hesitation if u read my reply to your earlier post of hesitation i had also removed my (k&N air filter to clean it) prior to running the seafoam i told u about, after the air filter was i forgot that i took it out , the car was very hesitant all through out the rpm's it was bucking, not shifting at all the shift points, no power. thought i did somthing wrong or thought it was the lucas fuel stabilizer and seafoam mix that i put in the tank. so after i cleaned the filter last night i reinstalled it and got up this morning to go formatioin problem gone so that made me think of your post again, befor u spend any more money start with the cheapest first when troubleshooting a a bad tps will throw a check engine light if im not mistaking, so if u replaced the fuel filter and all off the other things, u just might have a vaccum leak, hole or crack in the air filter hose after the maf sensor, air leaking through the throttle body, cracked intake manifold or leaking gasket or simply put u have a leak somewhere after the maf sensor if u want give me a cal at 757 729 2548 it to much to troubleshoot through a computer here is the video
http://s792.photobucket.com/albums/yy204/travdingle/?action=view¤t=video-2011-01-13-09-31-30.mp4
Last edited by travdingle; Jan 13, 2011 at 08:22 AM.
Yes, same sound (along with some light clicks).......I didn't attempt to locate the source, and I looked at the FSM and I don't know what is making the sound.......it's sounds very "electronic" and it seems related to the TPS output voltage. The locating of the source of a sound on a big chunk of aluminum like the engine can fool you. It is not related to the starter system. Can you make a video of when you get the hesitation and/or the lights "flickering"?
Yea I don't know anymore.... P samson said his is making the same sound.... I'm going to throw a tps at it I think even though mine tested ok, the reason for replacing it is because of hard starting, hesitation. Under 2000 rpms especially when cold, and occasional unusual trans shifting. I have no vac leaks, good fuel pressure. And no ses light I don't think I have injector problems or fpr problems because high rpms are good its just low rpms.... I'm going to buy a tps later today and ill see if it makes any change. If not I hope I can return it! Then ill try a maf I guess.... Any other sugestions?? QUOTE=Chris Gregg;7888954]I'd like to see what's going on here, where sound is coming from, and determine if perhaps this hesitation issue is a typical "something else" problem.
I'm prepared to hold sir...
[/QUOTE]
I'm prepared to hold sir...
[/QUOTE]
Yea I don't know anymore.... P samson said his is making the same sound.... I'm going to throw a tps at it I think even though mine tested ok, the reason for replacing it is because of hard starting, hesitation. Under 2000 rpms especially when cold, and occasional unusual trans shifting. I have no vac leaks, good fuel pressure. And no ses light I don't think I have injector problems or fpr problems because high rpms are good its just low rpms.... I'm going to buy a tps later today and ill see if it makes any change. If not I hope I can return it! Then ill try a maf I guess.... Any other sugestions?? QUOTE=Chris Gregg;7888954]I'd like to see what's going on here, where sound is coming from, and determine if perhaps this hesitation issue is a typical "something else" problem.
I'm prepared to hold sir...
I'm prepared to hold sir...

i wouldnt replace the tps id go for the maf sensor like i said earlier with the air filter out it hesitated just like yours did.once i reinstalled it, it ran perfect i belive that if this same problem happened to me with the filter out (threw ses to say bank 1&2 to lean) tells me that our cars air/fuel ratio isnt correct and cant compensate. try the maf sensor first or get a hex bit and take it out and clean it with maf sensor spray cleaner id try this first. nothin wrong with trying somthing cheap ill try to post a video of the car with and without the air filter to see if its doing the same thing as yours
Travdingle- I have had a smoke test performed no leaks detected, fuel pressure is good , cts replaced, plugs replaced, tps tested ok, maf was replaced with a 03 recently and made no change upper plenum gasket, throttle body gasket replaced, fuel pump and injectors cleaned... The list goes on! [QwUOTE=travdingle;7889099]i dont think thats the problem for the hesitation if u read my reply to your earlier post of hesitation i had also removed my (k&N air filter to clean it) prior to running the seafoam i told u about, after the air filter was i forgot that i took it out , the car was very hesitant all through out the rpm's it was bucking, not shifting at all the shift points, no power. thought i did somthing wrong or thought it was the lucas fuel stabilizer and seafoam mix that i put in the tank. so after i cleaned the filter last night i reinstalled it and got up this morning to go formatioin problem gone so that made me think of your post again, befor u spend any more money start with the cheapest first when troubleshooting a a bad tps will throw a check engine light if im not mistaking, so if u replaced the fuel filter and all off the other things, u just might have a vaccum leak, hole or crack in the air filter hose after the maf sensor, air leaking through the throttle body, cracked intake manifold or leaking gasket or simply put u have a leak somewhere after the maf sensor if u want give me a cal at 757 729 2548 it to much to troubleshoot through a computer here is the video
http://s792.photobucket.com/albums/yy204/travdingle/?action=view¤t=video-2011-01-13-09-31-30.mp4[/QUOTE]
http://s792.photobucket.com/albums/yy204/travdingle/?action=view¤t=video-2011-01-13-09-31-30.mp4[/QUOTE]
heres the vid of the hesitation, you will see it hit 1500 rpm a couple times then bog down to like 1200 then it starts to pulsate.... i can slowly start giving it gas and you'll see it slowly pulsate its way up then hit 2000 and the rpms launch its hard to show it in the vid i hope you can get a feel for it
p.s. when im speaking in the beginning about the starting method i have, what i meant was...
if i turn the key to ign. on, let the motor prime, then i start to turn the key bit by bit (when its in the spring loaded area) right befor it starts cranking i can hear the fuel pump turn on, let it pump for two or 3 seconds then turn a bit more, it cranks and fires right up.
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...10113-1233.mp4
p.s. when im speaking in the beginning about the starting method i have, what i meant was...
if i turn the key to ign. on, let the motor prime, then i start to turn the key bit by bit (when its in the spring loaded area) right befor it starts cranking i can hear the fuel pump turn on, let it pump for two or 3 seconds then turn a bit more, it cranks and fires right up.
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...10113-1233.mp4
Last edited by getflushed; Jan 13, 2011 at 06:30 PM.
maybe your cats clogged. exhaust wont flow until higher rpms push exhaust through. a couple of my cars have had the same problem and swapping or deleting the cats fixed the problem. Try unbolting the catalytic converter the see if hard starting problem continues. that or the maf. I have heard of a bad maf causing erratic rpms.
Yea I don't know if. It would be a clogged cat... My idle seems good its jusr in the 1200 to 1700 is affected, plus with the starting issues, inducing more gas to the engine allows for a perfect start, I'm leaning towards a air fuel problem, I guess ill buy a maf today and give it a try. If not ill return it. Plus wouldn't I get a code for a clogged cat or smell it eating itself with all that hot carbon in there clogging it you would think I'd smell the hot cat burning. is good
maybe your cats clogged. exhaust wont flow until higher rpms push exhaust through. a couple of my cars have had the same problem and swapping or deleting the cats fixed the problem. Try unbolting the catalytic converter the see if hard starting problem continues. that or the maf. I have heard of a bad maf causing erratic rpms.
I'm pretty confident its not a clogged cat, although ianything is possible, I have already considered that, and looked under the car when it was hot at night... Didn't notice any red hot cats, I guess when the weather lightens up I will pop out the pre cat 02 and see if it makes any difference, I'm also going to adjust my tps to .55 from .43 and see if it changes the area of the hesitation, I'm sure it will give me a good indication of my tps, I know that I had it at .48 and the bog would start at around 2000 rpm. And now I have it at .43 and I notice the bog at 1500 now that's why in the vid the first rev I got it to 2000 and it didn't do it so I dropped it to 1500 and it did it... If its not that ill order a used exhaust through my work and slap it in and see if its gone, are the I 30 exhausts the same as the maxs??? Like 02 sensors in the same locations? I know the shape is the same...
Adjusted tps to .55, shift points are much much better.... The lows rpms I can get it to shift from 1 to 2 is 1700 now not 1400 or 1500. But it got warm while I adjusted, then I unplugged the bat. Fired right up ill post after I'm done work and let you know if the hesitation is gone... It felt a lot smoother in the low rpm range. So regardless it made a difference for me
K so my pcv checks out good also here are the numbers for my maf
4.97 red wire to black wire-steady, 13.97 red green wire to neg bat terminal- proves good power, 13.97 black wire to positive batt term-proves good ground 1.34 white wire to black wire with a steady sweep ( but I notice that no matter how gentle I go at the throttle once it hits 1.42 they jump to 1.51 but my throttle kinda jumps in rpm range there to so I don't think that its like the maf has a dead spot cuz it will hit the number(s) in between when dropping in rpms. Do those numbers look correct? Also I did have the smoke test done but when I stand outside my car around the tb I can hear air and if I quickly smash the throttle you can hear its sucking air in. It should like its coming from the middle back of the intake past the tb??? I did have a smoke test done and nothing came up... It sounds like I have a cold air intake and I'm listening to the air get sucked through the filter.... It could be normal, but maybe not
4.97 red wire to black wire-steady, 13.97 red green wire to neg bat terminal- proves good power, 13.97 black wire to positive batt term-proves good ground 1.34 white wire to black wire with a steady sweep ( but I notice that no matter how gentle I go at the throttle once it hits 1.42 they jump to 1.51 but my throttle kinda jumps in rpm range there to so I don't think that its like the maf has a dead spot cuz it will hit the number(s) in between when dropping in rpms. Do those numbers look correct? Also I did have the smoke test done but when I stand outside my car around the tb I can hear air and if I quickly smash the throttle you can hear its sucking air in. It should like its coming from the middle back of the intake past the tb??? I did have a smoke test done and nothing came up... It sounds like I have a cold air intake and I'm listening to the air get sucked through the filter.... It could be normal, but maybe not
My car does the same thing here....it had trouble starting for months...usually had to wait around a minute with the ignition on in the morning before i could get it to startup...now it just turns the engine and doesn;t start...but the video posted previously of the humming noise with the ignition on happens on my car too!...i unplug the TPS and no noise....tough to pinpoint but it's not coming from the starter....i pulled both leads off the starter and still have a noise...it's constant with the throttle closed and quiets up as i increase the throttle....what a hassle...anybody have any possible answers??? and of course the two screws on the TPS sensor are locked pretty solid so it's not gonna be easy to loosen those if needed
Hey there I'm the "op" ... Pretty much I think that noise is noraml... A few people have chimed in and said there's all make thesame sound... Its wierd... But I have scoped it and the humming noise was coming from the starter for me at least but same idea... Humming dampens as throttle is increased. I would ignore that sound and focus on other thing to be the lead of your casue
My car does the same thing here....it had trouble starting for months...usually had to wait around a minute with the ignition on in the morning before i could get it to startup...now it just turns the engine and doesn;t start...but the video posted previously of the humming noise with the ignition on happens on my car too!...i unplug the TPS and no noise....tough to pinpoint but it's not coming from the starter....i pulled both leads off the starter and still have a noise...it's constant with the throttle closed and quiets up as i increase the throttle....what a hassle...anybody have any possible answers??? and of course the two screws on the TPS sensor are locked pretty solid so it's not gonna be easy to loosen those if needed
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