Is there any material on replacing rear wheel bearing for 2000 Maxima? How long will it take for a somebody who does not do this for living? Are there any gotchas i.e. getting stuck in the middle of the job and not being able to put it back at least if not fix it? What is the standard labor hour for this job at a mechanic?

Thanks,
- Vikas

 

0 = Oil Change
3 = Rear Bearing Replacement
10 = Engine rebuild

Unless you breaking a bolt from the brake system...

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-write-up.html

 

Unless you're replacing the whole hub assembly, you will need to press the new bearing into the old hub. If you don't have a press at home, then I am not sure how you plan on doing it. I would call around junk yards for an entire assembly if you plan on DIY.

 

Pretty sure the 2000 only has the Rear Hub Assembly availble for purchase. I wouldn't think you could save any money just by replacing the bearing. If you are replacing it then the chances of the inside of the Hub being burnt or scarred is as likely as the fronts for our cars. Just get the whole piece and be done with it.

They can be had for about 100.00 at your local parts store.

The job is pretty straight forward, if you have to remove your wheel for access the the nut on the axle then do so. Otherwise, pop off the dust cap to the nut, take out the the cotter pin, bust the nut loose... (and if this is the first time you have replaced it then be ready do put some muscle in it) jack it up, remove tire, remove brake caliper, remove the caliper mount, remove rotor, back-off the rest of the axle nut, then the hub should just need a hit or two from the back and should come right off. Install backwards.... pretty easy, but if you don't have any tools, which it sounds like, you will need a break-over bar 1/2" drive, and the nut which if I remember correctly was a 22mm or 24mm, which is pretty big for someone who just has a store bought 100 peice tool set....

 

I priced the part at Rockauto and there seems to be huge variation in the price. The cheapest is by Raybestos and seems to be complete including the wheel studs and ABS ring where as the more expensive have neither?

The FSM does not show cotter pin or castle nut. The lock nut has torque spec of 188 ft-lb. 18" 1/2 breaker bar probably will not work. This might be my chance to pickup HF corded impact wrench :-) The instructions have some contradiction. It tells you to remove the ABS ring from old hub but later says don't use the old ABS ring. It also says not to reuse lock nut or the hub cap (dust cap). RockAuto does not sell either. Do I have to go to dealer to get the cap and the lock nut? Frankly, I suspect mechanics reuse the cap and the nut.

I do have 22mm and 24mm 1/2 regular (i.e. not deep) sockets (courtsey of HF closeout) but NO 23mm or 25mm.

Oops the pictorial in the previous reply states it is 32mm. Is that a typo or it is really a 32mm nut?

 

I can't remember the size, I want to say it was a 22 or 24 though. When I did my first one it was about 7yrs ago, however, I will be doing it again tomorrow as my rear driver side is toast.



Edit
and yeah you could get the impact gun, that would help, but the 1/2" drive breakover bar worked for me. I think I had to stand on it and bounce a few times but it busted lose after that.

ohh and i re-used my nut and cap.... there isn't a castle nut, just a big nut. and again almost sure there is a cotter pin there, why wouldn't there be? i also don't remember an abs ring on the rear hub... either.

 

I replaced mine about 7 years ago. I can't recall if there is a cotter pin or not, I want to say there is not. But just in case you can pick up a pack of cotter pins for cheap at the auto parts store.

Aside from a potential cotter pin, you only need the hub assembly. If you go with OEM (which I recommend) you will need either new studs, or push out your old studs.

There is no ABS ring to mess with. It is pretty straight-forward. Remove dust cap, loosen nut, remove hub assembly. Provided you have already removed the caliper bracket. A half-inch electric impact gun worked for me in loosening the nut. When I installed the new one I couldn't tell if I hit the 188 ft lb torque specs; I just used the impact gun. Keep in mind, you probably want to try loosening the nut before taking off the brakes. Why? Because you can use the parking brake to help provide more torque when loosening the nut. The same theory goes for tightening the nut all the way down.

I know it only took me about a half hour in total to complete the replacement.

 

Here is the $65 part



vs $ $140 part

 

Ok....so you have the information now and our feedback. Time for you to make the decision...for me, I put more trust in the OEM bearing. But, it is up to you...

 

Last time I did rear wheel bearing, I bought Timken aftermarket ones.
No issues with them, I could not see any difference between them and the OEM part.
Except that they cost a lot less...

 

I find it strange that Post #8 in this year old thread came from the OP of this thread ...

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-write-up.html

 

You seem to be very confused....thread was started yesterday, 1/18/11.

 

Update: Ok so I did mine yesterday... I was all wrong about a few things.

first, it is a 32mm socket (felt like a 31mm would be perfect as my 32mm had a bit of play)
second, there is a abs ring
third, there is no cotter pin

still was about a 30 minute job, and the impact gun would be good help to get it off, but not recommended to put the new bearing on.

edit: well just saw the diagram post above... nice. just wanted to make sure i corrected my mistakes...

 

No, the thread I linked ( http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-write-up.html) was started on 02-24-2010, 07:54 PM

Post # 8 from that thread was posted on 02-25-2010, 09:01 AM from sontakke, but he (sontakke) started this thread that we're in right here on 01-18-2011 05:36 AM. That was my point.

Maybe you're confused.

 

Wow...Mr. Over-Analysis...looks like you need to step away from the forum for a bit.

 

Yeah, I go through stages .. Sometimes I wont ever get on, and others Pull me the freak way from here!

 

Yeah...same here.