Bad O2 Sensor?!?= Bad Gas Mileage
#41
posting question
Hi. I don't use the forum very often, but it is of immense value when needed. I don't quite understand the restriction on starting a new thread to users who have 15 posts. If I have a question for which answers cannot be found, am I restricted from asking that question?
Thanks. Looking forward to your reply.
BernieK
PS: Could you please PM me at berniek@technicaldevelop.com?
Thanks. Looking forward to your reply.
BernieK
PS: Could you please PM me at berniek@technicaldevelop.com?
#42
You will almost certainly get a check engine light if a O2 sensor is bad.
Pictures also will not tell us anything
Alot depends on your driving habits. When I had my Max, I got about 260-270 to a tank, and that was about 75% HW and 25% CITY. I had a heavy foot.
You also might want to lower your PSI a little in your tires. We are only suppoed to have something like 32 PSI in each tire.
Pictures also will not tell us anything
Alot depends on your driving habits. When I had my Max, I got about 260-270 to a tank, and that was about 75% HW and 25% CITY. I had a heavy foot.
You also might want to lower your PSI a little in your tires. We are only suppoed to have something like 32 PSI in each tire.
Right on the money, right off the hop, except I do agree with others that O2 sensors can read faulty and still be within confines of 'regular range' for ECM. This means they could be an issue, and could cause poor fuel mileage, but not THAT poor, if they're still working within ECM confines without throwing a code, then they won't kill your mileage THAT bad.
And lower the bloody pressure in your tires man that's NOT helping.
Maybe you mentioned it previous, but how many miles are on your car?
What is E93? Is that an Ethanol blend? I try to avoid that, if possible.
Saying "I get XXX miles on a tank" isn't really helpful as one person may drive on a tank of gas until the Low Fuel light comes on which means there are still a few gallons in the tank and others may run it and coast into the gas station on fumes. Actual MPG numbers are the best way to compare apples to apples.
What is E93? Is that an Ethanol blend? I try to avoid that, if possible.
Saying "I get XXX miles on a tank" isn't really helpful as one person may drive on a tank of gas until the Low Fuel light comes on which means there are still a few gallons in the tank and others may run it and coast into the gas station on fumes. Actual MPG numbers are the best way to compare apples to apples.
And Dustey is correct in what I think he's implying, NON-ethanol fuel is better, it is getting hard to find though. Shell has ethanol free here in Canada with it's Ultra94 Product.
Then there's this useless 'XXX' per tank that's getting thrown around. That tells us NOTHING, as Dustey mentioned.
And even MPG ratings are never perfect, because some don't do it properly, and some rely on the Digital dash readout, which is NOT accurate.
P.S. The 02/03 with Auto is the worst of all our Maximas on fuel straight out of the factory:
00-01 5spd = 22/28 MPG
00-01 Auto = 20/28 MPG
02-03 6spd = 21/28 MPG
02-03 Auto = 20/26 MPG
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If you want to have an intellegent fuel mileage thread, you need to use accurate numbers comparing apples to apples, and that is hard to do, everyone drives different, and everyone has a different opinion on city/highway, and 'hard' driving. At the end of the day, it's all subjective.
I hope you get good results with changing the main 02's.
#43
I don't know why everyone is sayin 93 Octane, the car is supposed to have 89, extra octane is a waste of your money.
And Dustey is correct in what I think he's implying, NON-ethanol fuel is better, it is getting hard to find though. Shell has ethanol free here in Canada with it's Ultra94 Product.
And Dustey is correct in what I think he's implying, NON-ethanol fuel is better, it is getting hard to find though. Shell has ethanol free here in Canada with it's Ultra94 Product.
And, everyone on this forum likes to forget there are 2 engines and 3 trannies that are in our cars, if you're not specifying what you have your posts are furthermore useless.
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If you want to have an intelligent fuel mileage thread, you need to use accurate numbers comparing apples to apples.
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If you want to have an intelligent fuel mileage thread, you need to use accurate numbers comparing apples to apples.
#44
Personally, I have not found a fuel mileage difference between 87 and 89 on my car (2001 Automatic) so I just run 87. I think the DE-K and 3.5 are more tolerant to lower octane than the old VQ30DE was.
And regular gas is over $1.20/liter here ($4.52/Gallon if I did my math right)
#45
It states that on the gas cap. If you Read your owners manual or look in the FSM, recommended octane is 89, does it hurt to run 93/94? No, but if you're just putting around town, you're wasting your money putting anything more than 89 in.
Personally, I have not found a fuel mileage difference between 87 and 89 on my car (2001 Automatic) so I just run 87. I think the DE-K and 3.5 are more tolerant to lower octane than the old VQ30DE was.
And regular gas is over $1.20/liter here ($4.52/Gallon if I did my math right)
Personally, I have not found a fuel mileage difference between 87 and 89 on my car (2001 Automatic) so I just run 87. I think the DE-K and 3.5 are more tolerant to lower octane than the old VQ30DE was.
And regular gas is over $1.20/liter here ($4.52/Gallon if I did my math right)
Prem goes in my lawnmower, weedeater, leaf blower, power washer, 3 vehicles, boat and the jet ski. for a few lousy bucks...
now a import beer over a domestic... in price, thinking that import is sooo much better = that's wasting money.
EDIT: ohh and if i don't run 91 or better it pings like crazy in this Texas heat, don't tell me that pre-ignition, timing retard, and uneven fuel burn off is any better than savinng that $1.35/tank
Last edited by J-Rod; 03-06-2011 at 01:39 PM.
#46
sorry and to OP, (1) I would remove and test the front two "main" O2 and see if they are working or "lazy" and go from there. another consideration is your MAF, mine was bad and wasn't throwing codes, and when i changed it noticed a little better fuel mileage. (2) if there is a code for your cam sensor then something is wrong, no way around that... you can reset it but it throwing a code means something is wrong. get it checked (3) and running 38 PSI in your tires is perfectly fine too. even if you don't have lo-pros and still have stockers. Just don't exceed the recommended tire max when cold, which you can run them up to that psi if you like as well.
Edit: my bad, noticed you said E93 and if it is an ethanol blend... then it is known that you get less mileage than "normal" gas. It's less efficient, more expensive to manafacture, and pollute's more... but the government sez its the fix so it has to be good, right??? :rolleyes
Edit: my bad, noticed you said E93 and if it is an ethanol blend... then it is known that you get less mileage than "normal" gas. It's less efficient, more expensive to manafacture, and pollute's more... but the government sez its the fix so it has to be good, right??? :rolleyes
Last edited by J-Rod; 03-06-2011 at 02:12 PM.
#47
The difference between Regular (87) and Premium (92-94) is usually around $0.10 per liter in Canada.
Full tank (around 70 liters)
$84 @ 1.20
$91 @ 1.30
The price for Ultra94 is a few cents higher again.
You also calculated based on $.10 difference per gallon, when your actual difference is $.30
Your numbers should actually reflect mine, the difference in cost for a full tank will be close to the numbers I presented.
Is it a lot? No. That's $6 difference every fill up. My point is, why the hell would you spend more on gas then you have to? It's already expensive enough, every dollar counts.
You make a very valid point though.
Full tank (around 70 liters)
$84 @ 1.20
$91 @ 1.30
The price for Ultra94 is a few cents higher again.
You also calculated based on $.10 difference per gallon, when your actual difference is $.30
Your numbers should actually reflect mine, the difference in cost for a full tank will be close to the numbers I presented.
Is it a lot? No. That's $6 difference every fill up. My point is, why the hell would you spend more on gas then you have to? It's already expensive enough, every dollar counts.
You make a very valid point though.
#48
The difference between Regular (87) and Premium (92-94) is usually around $0.10 per liter in Canada.
Full tank (around 70 liters)
$84 @ 1.20
$91 @ 1.30
The price for Ultra94 is a few cents higher again.
You also calculated based on $.10 difference per gallon, when your actual difference is $.30
Your numbers should actually reflect mine, the difference in cost for a full tank will be close to the numbers I presented.
Is it a lot? No. That's $6 difference every fill up. My point is, why the hell would you spend more on gas then you have to? It's already expensive enough, every dollar counts.
You make a very valid point though.
Full tank (around 70 liters)
$84 @ 1.20
$91 @ 1.30
The price for Ultra94 is a few cents higher again.
You also calculated based on $.10 difference per gallon, when your actual difference is $.30
Your numbers should actually reflect mine, the difference in cost for a full tank will be close to the numbers I presented.
Is it a lot? No. That's $6 difference every fill up. My point is, why the hell would you spend more on gas then you have to? It's already expensive enough, every dollar counts.
You make a very valid point though.
#49
TM3K: I actually added a new formula to my fuel economy spreadsheet just to answer that question: How much more money have I spent on 93 octane fuel instead of 89?
The up-charge from regular to premium around here is either $0.18 or $0.24, depending on the station. Using a $0.22 premium, I mostly fill up at the $.24 up-charge Shell than the $.18 up-charge Thorntons, I have spent $83.02 since June of 2010, over 7371 miles driven and 378 gallons. My average price per gallon, for premium fuel, over that same time is $3.03. 'Course, it recently shot up $0.50 a gallon, and I expect to pay closer to $4 a gallon over the summer, but .
Based on the miles I drive, I spend an extra $117 a year on premium fuel. Why put up with downgraded power when the ECU detects the less knock-resistant fuel? In the American south, where our blood runs crude, it simply doesn't add up.
The up-charge from regular to premium around here is either $0.18 or $0.24, depending on the station. Using a $0.22 premium, I mostly fill up at the $.24 up-charge Shell than the $.18 up-charge Thorntons, I have spent $83.02 since June of 2010, over 7371 miles driven and 378 gallons. My average price per gallon, for premium fuel, over that same time is $3.03. 'Course, it recently shot up $0.50 a gallon, and I expect to pay closer to $4 a gallon over the summer, but .
Based on the miles I drive, I spend an extra $117 a year on premium fuel. Why put up with downgraded power when the ECU detects the less knock-resistant fuel? In the American south, where our blood runs crude, it simply doesn't add up.
#50
@tuner & @coldrain
maybe you both read my post incorrectly as I was comparing a mid-grade (I said "plus" as that is what it is called) to the prem. I didn't even mention the regular (lowest - 87 octane) gas...
So my numbers are correct.
ColdRain -- you shouldn't compare reg. unleaded to the prem. unless you are putting whats not recommended in to be begin with. I made the comparison of price difference it what the least suggested octane is by manafacture (89 octane) and the prem. for what is suggested. That is a $ comparison. $.30 difference isn't anywhere close to the norm around me (Houston) from regular to prem. - I see about a $.18 - $.22 difference in those prices. And really about $.04 - $.08 difference between the plus and prem., so actually i cheated myself a cent in my comparison.
It's not a waste of money, unless your hurting so bad for that 5 bucks at the end of the month... in which case gas prices are the least of your concern's.
maybe you both read my post incorrectly as I was comparing a mid-grade (I said "plus" as that is what it is called) to the prem. I didn't even mention the regular (lowest - 87 octane) gas...
So my numbers are correct.
ColdRain -- you shouldn't compare reg. unleaded to the prem. unless you are putting whats not recommended in to be begin with. I made the comparison of price difference it what the least suggested octane is by manafacture (89 octane) and the prem. for what is suggested. That is a $ comparison. $.30 difference isn't anywhere close to the norm around me (Houston) from regular to prem. - I see about a $.18 - $.22 difference in those prices. And really about $.04 - $.08 difference between the plus and prem., so actually i cheated myself a cent in my comparison.
It's not a waste of money, unless your hurting so bad for that 5 bucks at the end of the month... in which case gas prices are the least of your concern's.
#53
Don't go crazy and change all of the o2 sensors, the primary ones bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 are the ones that matter most in terms of mpg, the other two can actually be simulated and never used again. My car was dumping gas last week like crazy, 13.8 mpg. Scanned the car and i had a cam position sensor code, swapped it out and got back 33.5mpg on the highway, not accurately obviously but yea check those, and exhaust leaks too.
#55
yeah that annoys me as well.
IF you want to replace your oxygen sensors, replace the ones on the primary exhaust manifold. There is one closest to the firewall on the manifold and the other one by the radiator , even if you dont have a CEL , its a good idea as a maintenance item . If you wan to test them you have to get the wiring diagram and locate the signal wire and tap into the voltages and rev your engine while checking the volts.
If your voltage hovers around .5 volt then your sensor is good.
If you remove the brake booster hose and the volts drop to .1 volts then that means its working ok , because when you add more air, the sensor reads the extra air and it adds fuel accordingly to richen it up.
here take a look
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stFhLSHsOGg
#56
yeah that annoys me as well.
IF you want to replace your oxygen sensors, replace the ones on the primary exhaust manifold. There is one closest to the firewall on the manifold and the other one by the radiator , even if you dont have a CEL , its a good idea as a maintenance item . If you wan to test them you have to get the wiring diagram and locate the signal wire and tap into the voltages and rev your engine while checking the volts.
If your voltage hovers around .5 volt then your sensor is good.
If you remove the brake booster hose and the volts drop to .1 volts then that means its working ok , because when you add more air, the sensor reads the extra air and it adds fuel accordingly to richen it up.
here take a look
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stFhLSHsOGg
IF you want to replace your oxygen sensors, replace the ones on the primary exhaust manifold. There is one closest to the firewall on the manifold and the other one by the radiator , even if you dont have a CEL , its a good idea as a maintenance item . If you wan to test them you have to get the wiring diagram and locate the signal wire and tap into the voltages and rev your engine while checking the volts.
If your voltage hovers around .5 volt then your sensor is good.
If you remove the brake booster hose and the volts drop to .1 volts then that means its working ok , because when you add more air, the sensor reads the extra air and it adds fuel accordingly to richen it up.
here take a look
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stFhLSHsOGg
00 Max GLE Auto 175k
bought it 2 weeks ago so Cant give MPG. im at about 180 with close to 1/2 tank.
On the way to have it inspected by a local dealer (friend is the mechanic) my cel came on. Had it scanned at advance auto (did not get the code). said bank 1 sensor 2 shows code. buddy said there is a TSB for the o2 sensors and that I should replace both downstream sensors and have the ECU reflashed. its EXPENSIVE, said they have had bad luck with aftermarket sensors. well my question is how is it that people are replacing them and not having issues? what do you guys think? also im mechanically dumb. how do you know if you have a California ESV vehicle?
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