While doing all of the work of a 3'' maf + piping why is it still sitting in the heat soaked engine bay and not the fender well? The fender well is Significantly cooler and when you tune it should be more accurate.

 

That work I'm doing is small and I'll be building a cold air fed heatshield hopely soon.....This engine loves a shorter intake vs a longer intake in an untuned setup....Plus my 6" seems a bit big inside the splashshield and I hate worrying about sucking up water! When that time comes I'll build something along the lines of this but fed by twin 4" ram air hoses:

 

Anyone with a BPI/Vibrant might wanna try this setup it really flows and responds better than the Generic Bellmouth.....IMO

 

I would imagine so, a low angle smooth bevel is more ideal for non-boosted engines from what I've read. Where did you get that or is it custom made?

 

JWT Popcharger bellmouth, R2C 6" air filter and both MAF adapter all from Cattman....

 

Bumping this thread. Looking for a new setup. Opinions on the absolutely loudest intake setup? I assume closer to the tb and as straight as possible would be loudest. However which filter?

 

you need the shortest tube possible that can still have a breather hose. (about 2 inches so you can have silicon couplers on each end. For filters, pick one, they will all be about the same volume wise.

 

I found my 8"x6" K&N was louder than my 6"x6" Blox, just food for thought, a longer/larger filter may yield more noise.

If you're talking same size = same size, then as Knight said, noise difference will be negligible

 

Any luck with that cold air intake setup you were looking into?

 

I'm ready to install it, just haven't had time to actually get into the install/mock-up and welding then re-install, no free time lately. I'm just running a temp SRI set up for now.

 

How are you guys relocating your battery? Any tips, strategies, etc?

 

I didn't take any pictures of it, but this is what I did when I ran my long AF:

-Unbolt the battery tray (3 bolts)
-Remove the relay box, and the positive side fuse 'block' that mounts on the tray, you may need to unhook/cut the one tie wrap holding the positive wire to the tray down below also
-Now you should be able to turn the tray 90 Degrees, as well as move it where the old intake scoop was.

In this location, you'll notice one of the bolt holes will line up.
You can use a 3/8" bolt, large washers, lockwasher, and a nut to secure the tray.
I would suggest using two bolts, but that requires more work, and honestly, if you secure it properly with that one bolt, it won't move.

This will allow you quite a bit more room with very little time/effort, and you still use the stock battery tray, hold down, and stock wiring. If you want more room (I will need more for my CAI), then you need to relocate the fuse block by the wheel well, as well as move the battery a bit more, requiring a custom gusset or custom battery tray, or both, and some wiring.

I know some guys have relocated the battery to the trunk, etc, but that's not necessary unless you're running an intercooler or turbo or something and really need that room.

Also, to run the very short SRI that most guys run, you don't need to move the battery at all obviously. for ideal length you should be moving the battery until it almost touches the upper rad hose, that way you can get that filter right into the corner.