My plan is to duplicate Knight_yyz's custom intake, the one that is complete with MAF bung hole etc.
However before I buy the pipe and have me welding buddy fab it up for me. What are the exact dimensions on the intake manifold where the intake would hook up and what are the exact measurements of the MAF housing?
From what I understand the MAF housing is 2.75in inner diameter. Correct?
Also where should the MAF housing be along the pipe, front middle back?
And any suggestion on how to immobilize it? I wont be able to use the screw off the maf housing like most of the SRI.

EDIT also the breather tube what is the inner diameter for that? if thats what it is, that goes to another part of the engine.

 

haha... bung hole


no really tho, im interested to see how this turns out for ya!

 

Did you lose your ruler?

You know, I suppose you could ask Ray. He's just that nice of a guy that he'll probably give you answers, in spite of your stated intentions to duplicate his work.

 

Why not just buy a pipe from knight and enjoy a cup of coffee with the time you save?

 

i'm with Kyle on this one...

 

The TB is 70MM ID, and the MAF housing is around 70-72MM ID. This is close to 2.75 inches, and 3" OD piping will give you 2.75" ID. Both are 3" OD, when it comes to determining size for couplers. For the MAF adapter itself, take off your stock MAF tube and measure carefully.

You can put the MAF very close to the TB, 3-4" is probably fine. Just make sure that the PCV hose is downstream from the MAF. Having it further from the filter will help to reduce any turbulence through the pipe before it reaches the MAF.

There are a few ways to go about this.

1. Cheapo kit from spectra. Looks ricey, but works.
2. 1/8" thick aluminum bar, bend it appropriately to reach where you want on the pipe and to one of the 10MM bolts on the strut tower. Drill a hole for the bolt, and have it welded to the pipe on the other side by your welding buddy.
3. Creative use of zip ties (super ghetto)
4. Creative use of "insert something here"... just rig it up with whatever you can.

I would choose number 2. Should look nice and hold it well.

Most intakes are going to be 3" OD, which is 2.75" or so ID in the case of 3MM piping, which is the normal standard.

Optimally, something a little bigger would probably help for top end power, but 99% of us run with the normal 3" OD piping.

 

Hmm... sometimes I swear Sparks would make a good Moderator.

Well done.

 

I'm too much of a jerk, I think. I'd rather have thread battles than moderate them!

 

I bought a waaaay too big aem filter and have no piping. MAF right on TB haha. Made it a lot easier

 

Sounds like one of my 500 intake set ups

 

^^ that's how my intake set up is too. I have the maf close to the tb

That mani looks soooo preeeety

 

Yes, that's the same filter I bought LOL. I love it, but I didn't fully appreciate how big 9" is under the hood with a 6" outlet.

Top end feels great though. No loss all the way to 7100. But low end fail with the SSIM

 

Yeah I made the exact same mistake... thought 6"x9", that should be just right.... now that filter is sitting in my garage collecting dust. Ended up ordering another 6"x4" which is the perfect size for me.

 

The main pipe is 7" long, 3" OD, the breather pipe is 5/8 or 16mm to fit the oem hose and 7" long. The id doesn't really matter too much as long as it can draw air from the crankcase. I use 16mm hydraulic tube. The ID is about 1/2"

 

Details on where you got your filter and the specs? I want to do the same setup, so sorta everything you needed would be really helpful

 

AEM dry flow filter, 6" inlet. I would recommend getting one that is 4" long instead of 9" long, the 9" filter is kind of silly.

BPI velocity stack, can be had on amazon pretty cheap.

MAF adapter.

catch can for both sides of the PCV, if you want to disconnect it.

This is a 6"x4" AEM dry flow filter

 

I like that set up, what did you use for the mid pipe to the filter?

 

3" pipe

 

I can't seem to find it on amazon, I found a used bpi velocity stack on ebay for 50 bucks, is that too much?

 

Got mine off amazon for around 35 dollars, I believe. The amazon brand may be Blox actually. http://www.amazon.com/Blox-Velocity-...6280705&sr=8-4

 

Yes it is to much ... I purchased mine right from BPI... and with the crappy shipping cost to Ontario was still just under 60.00 for brand new.

http://www.bpinitiatives.com/stacks.php

 

ebay that blox, was around 35 for mine shipped.

 

Or a Vibrant Velocity stack thru sportcompactwarehouse.com.....or Amazon!

 

Ok I wasn't planning on buying it from knight because he said he didn't have any materials for it, and I'm not getting the pipe because I really want a cleaner look in the engine bay and at the end of the day it just looks better.
As far as my ruler being broke I figured i needed that reverse caliper thing to find out?

Thanks alot sparks and knight that really helps alot. I'll post pics and things as I build and then later compress it into a how to for a sick intake once you find a welding buddy . So long as Knight is cool with that I don't want to hurt his side project, especially after he helped with dimensions.

And as far as the filter goes that aem 6x4 worked pretty good right? Or would one of those pop chargers be better? I'd imagine the bigger filter is able to pull more air for the simple reason that it has a significantly larger surface area.

 

A 6"x4" or 6"x5" with a velocity stack has more than plenty enough surface area. If you don't want to go that route, you can go with a JWT popcharger.

 

Hm ordered everything, just trying to figure out maybe a nice midpipe but any sorta 3 inch pipe should work right? I'm going to be using a breather filter for the front valve cover, maybe a catch can if its leaking too much.

Opinions on these sorts of pipe? lame?

http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-8728-C...6340317&sr=8-7

 

If you do a breather filter on the front valve cover, you also need to disconnect the other side of the PCV on the rear of the intake manifold or you'll have an intermittent vacuum leak.

 

Cool, should I use something to block that part of the intake manifold too? Maybe a bolt or stick something in the tube to keep it from leaking

 

I used a silicone cap to seal the hole after disconnecting it. You can get rubber ones for super cheap at any auto parts store, but they will eventually crack and leak.

Technically you want to have a catch can connected to the PCV hose off each valve cover, with the other side of it just venting to atmosphere. However, I just have a filter on each and clean them out on a regular basis before they start leaking oil... as a temporary solution.

 

I'll take a look when I'm installing in like 2 weeks and figure out what to do with it, thanks for the help sparks.

Gonna go with breather filters on both valve covers, and block off the intake barb, probably do the homemade catch can later on.

 

I was under the impression that you wanted me to build you a BBMAF. Can't do that because I can't find extruded aluminum tube. And no one wants to pay 300 bucks for one. I have about 5 sri's in my basement ready to go.
No one realizes how much labor goes into building the BBMAF. First you need the tube, 80-82mm seems to be the size required. The you have to machine an aluminum block to square, then bore out a hole exactly the same size as the OD of your tube, which in my case for 80mm ID is 85.00mm. The you have to cut that block into pieces to make the shelf for the MAF sensor to sit on. Then it has to be ground square and to the proper thickness so the MAF sensor holes are as close to the center of the tube as possible. Then you have to machine a couple of spacer rings because there really is no such thing as an 80mm ID silicon coupler. So the ring has to be 3.5 OD with an 85mm ID. Then you need another ring for the velocity stakc side, becuase the 3.5" velocity stack is a little smaller then the OD of the aluminum tube. So to make them match up nicely you need to be creative.
You also have to machine an aluminum breather tube.
Then it all has to be welded together, then you have to drill and tap the mounting holes for the sensor on the aluminum shelf, and you need to bore out the hole for the sensor, which is metric and has to be very close or it will leak, or be too tight and the sensor wont fit. Then polish it all up.





this setup only needs a coupler at the TB end, and 2 clamps

I still have to de-anodize the vibrant stack and have it repolished then I can put it all together.

 

Ray, if the OP and his welding buddy can duplicate what you're doing here, then more power to them.

What are you going to fabricate for support?

 

I don't care if someone copies this, the OP said I couldn't make him an SRI, but that's not what he asked me for a while back. He wanted a BBMAF, and now he wants an SRI.

It won't need a hanger, I have something else in mind.

 

Sparks how often do you clean you breather filters, with what, and are you planning a catch can setup anytime soon?

 

thats what i was trying to get you to make me awhile back

 

This happened to you? Can I ask a noobish question... what's the vacuum connection between the two VC's?

What do you have in mind?

 

I'm hoping to relocate the battery, then I will make a shelf for the filter to sit on. I thought I had a few pictures of the original BBMAF I test fitted in my car but can't find it. Version one had a few flaws in the design, so I made a second version. But that had a few design flaws so I now have the V3. LOL

Here's a vid of how it looked though, If you pause the video at about 5 seconds you will notice that there are no clamps on the coupler. Yet the setup is stable and parallel to the ground.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P90VnjMh5EQ

 

Yeah... In stock form it draws metered air from the intake after the MAF, through the engine and into the back of the IM because of the pressure differential between the IM and intake pipe when the TB is closed or nearly closed. I was having a problem for 6+ months where my car would sometimes idle really rough/lean at like 16-17:1 until I finally figured out that the PCV was sucking unmetered air in through the filter when it opened up.

The connection between the 2 VCs is the engine block.

 

Thanks, Sparks. That's a good piece of know-how to file away.

 

Also both of the breather holes are pretty tiny to keep too much air from bypassing the TB, so when I remove the valve covers this spring I will drill them out and install catch cans that are vented to atmosphere on each to keep the blowby pressure in the crank case as low as possible during WOT. Z guys have seen moderate (2-5whp) power gains from opening up extra venting to atmosphere that way.