Custom SRI measurements
01-30-2011 | 09:02 AM
#42
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Yep... Going to be at a point in a couple of months where the only things I can do aside from very expensive internal work (compression, bore, stroke) or a fresh bottom end to make power is small things to increase efficiency so I'm slowly whittling away at them.
01-30-2011 | 12:10 PM
#43
I was under the impression that you wanted me to build you a BBMAF. Can't do that because I can't find extruded aluminum tube. And no one wants to pay 300 bucks for one. I have about 5 sri's in my basement ready to go.
No one realizes how much labor goes into building the BBMAF. First you need the tube, 80-82mm seems to be the size required. The you have to machine an aluminum block to square, then bore out a hole exactly the same size as the OD of your tube, which in my case for 80mm ID is 85.00mm. The you have to cut that block into pieces to make the shelf for the MAF sensor to sit on. Then it has to be ground square and to the proper thickness so the MAF sensor holes are as close to the center of the tube as possible. Then you have to machine a couple of spacer rings because there really is no such thing as an 80mm ID silicon coupler. So the ring has to be 3.5 OD with an 85mm ID. Then you need another ring for the velocity stakc side, becuase the 3.5" velocity stack is a little smaller then the OD of the aluminum tube. So to make them match up nicely you need to be creative.
You also have to machine an aluminum breather tube.
Then it all has to be welded together, then you have to drill and tap the mounting holes for the sensor on the aluminum shelf, and you need to bore out the hole for the sensor, which is metric and has to be very close or it will leak, or be too tight and the sensor wont fit. Then polish it all up.
this setup only needs a coupler at the TB end, and 2 clamps
I still have to de-anodize the vibrant stack and have it repolished then I can put it all together.
No one realizes how much labor goes into building the BBMAF. First you need the tube, 80-82mm seems to be the size required. The you have to machine an aluminum block to square, then bore out a hole exactly the same size as the OD of your tube, which in my case for 80mm ID is 85.00mm. The you have to cut that block into pieces to make the shelf for the MAF sensor to sit on. Then it has to be ground square and to the proper thickness so the MAF sensor holes are as close to the center of the tube as possible. Then you have to machine a couple of spacer rings because there really is no such thing as an 80mm ID silicon coupler. So the ring has to be 3.5 OD with an 85mm ID. Then you need another ring for the velocity stakc side, becuase the 3.5" velocity stack is a little smaller then the OD of the aluminum tube. So to make them match up nicely you need to be creative.
You also have to machine an aluminum breather tube.
Then it all has to be welded together, then you have to drill and tap the mounting holes for the sensor on the aluminum shelf, and you need to bore out the hole for the sensor, which is metric and has to be very close or it will leak, or be too tight and the sensor wont fit. Then polish it all up.
this setup only needs a coupler at the TB end, and 2 clamps
I still have to de-anodize the vibrant stack and have it repolished then I can put it all together.
I would still pay Knight for the custom unit, knowing its expensive but I figure I can give this a try myself first since he doesn't have any of the material now.
And I'd like to go on the record and apologize to Knight and any others who thought I might be slandering Knight or anything like that, I'm sure he makes good products because many .orger's are happy with his pipes.
Whats the point of disconnecting the scv pipe? And should I install an inline catch-can?
Also Knight your using a larger pipe 80mm instead of 70? Did you have to retune the MAF for that?
01-30-2011 | 12:27 PM
#44
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I'm sorry for the confusion I'm causing about this but I do want the BBMAF, I was under the impression it was just an SRI with MAF included. Not the first time I've been wrong though. I am trying to build the BBMAF and thanks to Knight, I know its possible and looks good.
I would still pay Knight for the custom unit, knowing its expensive but I figure I can give this a try myself first since he doesn't have any of the material now.
And I'd like to go on the record and apologize to Knight and any others who thought I might be slandering Knight or anything like that, I'm sure he makes good products because many .orger's are happy with his pipes.
Whats the point of disconnecting the scv pipe? And should I install an inline catch-can?
Also Knight your using a larger pipe 80mm instead of 70? Did you have to retune the MAF for that?
I would still pay Knight for the custom unit, knowing its expensive but I figure I can give this a try myself first since he doesn't have any of the material now.
And I'd like to go on the record and apologize to Knight and any others who thought I might be slandering Knight or anything like that, I'm sure he makes good products because many .orger's are happy with his pipes.
Whats the point of disconnecting the scv pipe? And should I install an inline catch-can?
Also Knight your using a larger pipe 80mm instead of 70? Did you have to retune the MAF for that?
The only point of venting the PCV system to atmosphere is for simplicity (no pipes on the intake) and to avoid having oil in the plenum. It is possible for it to pool in there and then when you go WOT, get sucked in and lower octane a bit. It's not a big deal though, and wouldn't be noticeable.
You can make a ghetto one like I did on my old intake without all the custom machine work... This is just a generic 3" spectra maf adapter that my buddy bought for his cobalt combined with a hacked up stock housing.
02-01-2011 | 01:04 PM
#45
So I was just planning on using the stock diameter for the intake and now I'm thinking about bigger but as Knight pointed out there are problems with the 80mm id pipe because it doesnt mate well to a velocity stack so I'm thinking about using an 89 mm id pipe(maybe hard to find) or a 76mm id pipe, as I know I'll be able to find a velocity stack to match.
Has anyone used or heard of an intake at 89 mm? is that overkill? Any foreseeable issues coming up? Would that throw off the MAF sensor by making it too off center?
Has anyone used or heard of an intake at 89 mm? is that overkill? Any foreseeable issues coming up? Would that throw off the MAF sensor by making it too off center?
02-01-2011 | 01:45 PM
#46
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So I was just planning on using the stock diameter for the intake and now I'm thinking about bigger but as Knight pointed out there are problems with the 80mm id pipe because it doesnt mate well to a velocity stack so I'm thinking about using an 89 mm id pipe(maybe hard to find) or a 76mm id pipe, as I know I'll be able to find a velocity stack to match.
Has anyone used or heard of an intake at 89 mm? is that overkill? Any foreseeable issues coming up? Would that throw off the MAF sensor by making it too off center?
Has anyone used or heard of an intake at 89 mm? is that overkill? Any foreseeable issues coming up? Would that throw off the MAF sensor by making it too off center?
Finding pipe with 2.5"/3"/3.5" etc ID measurements is very difficult and not common. Best off using common parts.
02-01-2011 | 02:52 PM
#47
02-01-2011 | 03:38 PM
#48
Hm ordered everything, just trying to figure out maybe a nice midpipe but any sorta 3 inch pipe should work right? I'm going to be using a breather filter for the front valve cover, maybe a catch can if its leaking too much.
Opinions on these sorts of pipe? lame?
http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-8728-C...6340317&sr=8-7
Opinions on these sorts of pipe? lame?
http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-8728-C...6340317&sr=8-7
02-01-2011 | 04:41 PM
#49
why do people put those breather filters on? That rubber pipes supposed to help suck out and hopefully burn whatever comes out of it. I'd rather go do the ghetto catch can instead of the little breather. It only looks good on day 1 and after that, it gets all nasty and black...unless you get a black one, but still.
02-05-2011 | 12:22 AM
#51
I was under the impression that you wanted me to build you a BBMAF. Can't do that because I can't find extruded aluminum tube. And no one wants to pay 300 bucks for one. I have about 5 sri's in my basement ready to go.
No one realizes how much labor goes into building the BBMAF. First you need the tube, 80-82mm seems to be the size required. The you have to machine an aluminum block to square, then bore out a hole exactly the same size as the OD of your tube, which in my case for 80mm ID is 85.00mm. The you have to cut that block into pieces to make the shelf for the MAF sensor to sit on. Then it has to be ground square and to the proper thickness so the MAF sensor holes are as close to the center of the tube as possible. Then you have to machine a couple of spacer rings because there really is no such thing as an 80mm ID silicon coupler. So the ring has to be 3.5 OD with an 85mm ID. Then you need another ring for the velocity stakc side, becuase the 3.5" velocity stack is a little smaller then the OD of the aluminum tube. So to make them match up nicely you need to be creative.
You also have to machine an aluminum breather tube.
Then it all has to be welded together, then you have to drill and tap the mounting holes for the sensor on the aluminum shelf, and you need to bore out the hole for the sensor, which is metric and has to be very close or it will leak, or be too tight and the sensor wont fit. Then polish it all up.
this setup only needs a coupler at the TB end, and 2 clamps
I still have to de-anodize the vibrant stack and have it repolished then I can put it all together.
No one realizes how much labor goes into building the BBMAF. First you need the tube, 80-82mm seems to be the size required. The you have to machine an aluminum block to square, then bore out a hole exactly the same size as the OD of your tube, which in my case for 80mm ID is 85.00mm. The you have to cut that block into pieces to make the shelf for the MAF sensor to sit on. Then it has to be ground square and to the proper thickness so the MAF sensor holes are as close to the center of the tube as possible. Then you have to machine a couple of spacer rings because there really is no such thing as an 80mm ID silicon coupler. So the ring has to be 3.5 OD with an 85mm ID. Then you need another ring for the velocity stakc side, becuase the 3.5" velocity stack is a little smaller then the OD of the aluminum tube. So to make them match up nicely you need to be creative.
You also have to machine an aluminum breather tube.
Then it all has to be welded together, then you have to drill and tap the mounting holes for the sensor on the aluminum shelf, and you need to bore out the hole for the sensor, which is metric and has to be very close or it will leak, or be too tight and the sensor wont fit. Then polish it all up.
this setup only needs a coupler at the TB end, and 2 clamps
I still have to de-anodize the vibrant stack and have it repolished then I can put it all together.
02-05-2011 | 06:32 AM
#52
Its not installed yet. I made one a few years back, bit wasn't happy with the results. So I sold it and made another, but there was a design flaw which would have caused a bit of turbulence so I sold that one and made the one you see in this thread. Still needs to be polished and welded. If all goes well it will be installed this spring with g35 injectors.
edited now that I am on the home computer and not the smartphone. Here's a vid of the V2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P90VnjMh5EQ
edited now that I am on the home computer and not the smartphone. Here's a vid of the V2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P90VnjMh5EQ
Last edited by knight_yyz; 02-05-2011 at 07:05 PM.
03-04-2011 | 01:29 PM
#53
03-04-2011 | 02:04 PM
#54
God dammit SEE WHAT HAPPENS when I bring back ONE intake thread???
It turns into a friggen disaster. And to think, I was going to post my own thread dedicated to my questions. If I would have done that then 10 Clashez would have posted threads.
Why the **** wouldn't you just PM Knight_yyz?
/Rant
It turns into a friggen disaster. And to think, I was going to post my own thread dedicated to my questions. If I would have done that then 10 Clashez would have posted threads.
Why the **** wouldn't you just PM Knight_yyz?
/Rant
03-04-2011 | 02:36 PM
#55
God dammit SEE WHAT HAPPENS when I bring back ONE intake thread???
It turns into a friggen disaster. And to think, I was going to post my own thread dedicated to my questions. If I would have done that then 10 Clashez would have posted threads.
Why the **** wouldn't you just PM Knight_yyz?
/Rant
It turns into a friggen disaster. And to think, I was going to post my own thread dedicated to my questions. If I would have done that then 10 Clashez would have posted threads.
Why the **** wouldn't you just PM Knight_yyz?
/Rant
03-17-2011 | 09:38 PM
#56
Ignoring^^
Anyways, its been a busy month or so and funds got tight and should be more loose in the forseeable future, anyways im at this point with these two drawings, I still havent fabbed up the intake
also Im thinking about this one to avoid the SAFC mod, and have less variables, its a combination of an SRI and BBMAF(kind of)
Let me know what you think, I might even end up doing both, testing gains on a dyno and seeing if there is much of a difference.
Also here is a short parts list:
Air Filter: AEM dryflow 6x5 filter http://www.amazon.com/AEM-21-209EDK-...6536799&sr=1-1
Velocity Stack: 3.5->6" http://www.vibrantperformance.com/pressrelease23.php
http://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-Bellmo.../dp/B002TUNY6G
Aluminum Pipe and Block: I'm having my welding buddy get it locally, ask your fabricator to handle this, I need 10" of 3.5" OD pipe or 8" 2.75" OD and 3" 3.5" OD with a coupler or bent metal. For the aluminum block, you'll need at least a 2.75"x1.75" block.
Breather Tube: See above, 5/8" OD between .5" and 1" long
Coupler: again depending on setup either a coupler http://www.hiprospeed.com/ProductDet...BLUE&Click=639 or youll need a 3.5"->2.75" reducing coupler http://www.hiprospeed.com/ProductDet...R-275-350-BLUE
Most importantly, somewhere or someone to fabricate this.
Ill update again with progress
Anyways, its been a busy month or so and funds got tight and should be more loose in the forseeable future, anyways im at this point with these two drawings, I still havent fabbed up the intake
also Im thinking about this one to avoid the SAFC mod, and have less variables, its a combination of an SRI and BBMAF(kind of)
Let me know what you think, I might even end up doing both, testing gains on a dyno and seeing if there is much of a difference.
Also here is a short parts list:
Air Filter: AEM dryflow 6x5 filter http://www.amazon.com/AEM-21-209EDK-...6536799&sr=1-1
Velocity Stack: 3.5->6" http://www.vibrantperformance.com/pressrelease23.php
http://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-Bellmo.../dp/B002TUNY6G
Aluminum Pipe and Block: I'm having my welding buddy get it locally, ask your fabricator to handle this, I need 10" of 3.5" OD pipe or 8" 2.75" OD and 3" 3.5" OD with a coupler or bent metal. For the aluminum block, you'll need at least a 2.75"x1.75" block.
Breather Tube: See above, 5/8" OD between .5" and 1" long
Coupler: again depending on setup either a coupler http://www.hiprospeed.com/ProductDet...BLUE&Click=639 or youll need a 3.5"->2.75" reducing coupler http://www.hiprospeed.com/ProductDet...R-275-350-BLUE
Most importantly, somewhere or someone to fabricate this.
Ill update again with progress
Last edited by Xarles; 03-17-2011 at 09:43 PM.
03-18-2011 | 12:36 PM
#59
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Posts: 3,468
From: Greensboro, NC
The closer you can get to the TB with the bigger diameter, the less length it will have to travel at the smaller diameter. Also, the MAF sensor itself is a pretty large restriction, so putting it in the bigger piping will help with getting the airflow past that restriction.
03-18-2011 | 02:14 PM
#61
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My car is tuned with a UTEC. Get with NmexMAX or do a forum search to get the proper in/out settings for a ~82MM ID MAF. If you're going with 3.5" OD piping, it will be more like 83MM ID... but close enough not to matter.
05-06-2011 | 09:59 PM
#62
almost finished, got the block welded for the MAF sensor, just need to test fit as I think this is a little longer than will fit. I'll give it a trim at the back end behind the breather hose pipe. Then I'll be ceramic coating the whole thing
Last edited by knight_yyz; 05-06-2011 at 10:02 PM.
05-07-2011 | 09:56 AM
#64
not for sale unless you can find extruded aluminum in 80-82mm diameter. This is hard to find. I can't find any locally. This piece of pipe is actually a bosch pneumatic cylinder that got tossed out at work when it died. I called bosch and parker many time to buy this stuff and they won't sell me any.
05-07-2011 | 10:01 AM
#65
I'm going to rid my Helmholtz, and use the hardware you sold me not too long ago, the 3" ID intake w/breather. And also add the remaining SSIM phenolic spacer from the elbow to the plenum,toss on the test pipe, and richen it up a bit and see what #'s I put down.
No-o-o-o! Not the magical Helmholtz resonator! 
05-07-2011 | 07:45 PM
#69
Is it just me, or does that block raise your MAF sensor above stock location in the pipe? Seems like its much higher in the pictures but I assume you've calculated it out so it's located in the same spot. Just wondering.
Wow that thing is a beast, isn't that going to run right into the strut area? Or are you using the stock accordian piece to make a bend so that it angles away?
Either way interesting stuff Ray keep us updated on your progress. Are you running a standard 6" cone filter or Pop-Charger on it or something else?
-Matt
Either way interesting stuff Ray keep us updated on your progress. Are you running a standard 6" cone filter or Pop-Charger on it or something else?
-Matt
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 05-07-2011 at 07:47 PM.
05-07-2011 | 07:55 PM
#70
05-07-2011 | 09:48 PM
#71
I measured the thickness of the tube and the stock shelf and came up with 23.6mm. It's not exact using a vernier caliper but it's close enough for my purposes. The stock tube ID is 70mm, the new tube is 85 OD, so the measurement of the shelf with an 85 OD is 16.1mm or .633" thick. My shelf is .635" thick. from tje lowest point on the radius to the top of the shelf.
Last edited by knight_yyz; 05-07-2011 at 11:16 PM.
05-08-2011 | 07:56 AM
#72
I measured the thickness of the tube and the stock shelf and came up with 23.6mm. It's not exact using a vernier caliper but it's close enough for my purposes. The stock tube ID is 70mm, the new tube is 85 OD, so the measurement of the shelf with an 85 OD is 16.1mm or .633" thick. My shelf is .635" thick. from tje lowest point on the radius to the top of the shelf.
Based on your measurements that would only put it in stock location if your pips is 70mm ID. I guess that's what you're running?
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 05-08-2011 at 07:58 AM.
05-08-2011 | 08:23 AM
#73
Black circle is stock tube, Blue circles are the new tube, obviously ID and OD.
The red line is the distance from the outside edge of the new tube to the shelf. It becomes shorter, but the center to shelf height remains the same.
Last edited by knight_yyz; 05-08-2011 at 08:49 AM.
05-08-2011 | 08:33 AM
#74
I'm not sold 100% on those Vibrant and BPI Velocity stacks when compared to a JWT popcharger bellmouth/venturi......I looked at my JWT and Vibrant side by side and you can see the more gradual curvature of the JWT and a sharper curvature of the Vibrant...the throttle appears to be much more crisp and linear with the JWT.....so I'm working on a JWT Hybrid SRI....just to see if it is as linear as the JWT/R2C 6" hiflow filter mount directly to the MAF.....I can see and feel the difference and made me think about how the OEM miniture bellmouth/MAF was mounted....So maybe these engines prefer a short Intake....I know for Damn sure my engine hates that Injen Intake I used years back cause it's too damn long (39")!!!!!
05-08-2011 | 10:24 AM
#76
I looked at the first pic and it seemed like you just went to a thick-azz wall tube, all is right in Matt's universe now, thanks
05-08-2011 | 10:41 AM
#77
Well, i went outside for a test fit. I have determined there is no point in relocating my battery. In Order to gain that space for tube length i would need something like a 30 or 45* elbow reducer. My sizes are odd due to making it custom and I am not paying 60 bucks shipped for an elbow to gain a few inches. The TB is 3.125 inches +/- for metric, and I made the OD ring for the tube 3.5 because they made those in straight couplers. But an elbow in that shape and size is ridiculous for pricing.
I have to chop about 3" to make this fit behind the battery
I have to chop about 3" to make this fit behind the battery
Last edited by knight_yyz; 05-08-2011 at 11:11 AM.
05-08-2011 | 03:26 PM
#78
No not really! I've bored out my Cattman billet MAF adapter's threaded holes and attached it to the JWT Popcharger. I just need to order another one to bolt to the MAF now!!!!! You could make a million MAF adapters with your skills.....
I've ran a Hybrid SRI for a while now but I noticed that the JWT popcharger bellmouth has a more gradual curved intake when compared to the Vibrant/BPI velocity stack/bellmouths.....I also noticed that the throttle response is more crisp in all ranges......So I've adapted the JWT to a Cattman billet MAF adapter and another Cattman billet MAF adapter to the MAF sensor housing (JWT>adapter>coupling>adapter>MAF), I'll be running this for a while trying to see how it responds overall.....
I've ran a Hybrid SRI for a while now but I noticed that the JWT popcharger bellmouth has a more gradual curved intake when compared to the Vibrant/BPI velocity stack/bellmouths.....I also noticed that the throttle response is more crisp in all ranges......So I've adapted the JWT to a Cattman billet MAF adapter and another Cattman billet MAF adapter to the MAF sensor housing (JWT>adapter>coupling>adapter>MAF), I'll be running this for a while trying to see how it responds overall.....
Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-21-2011 at 09:53 AM.
05-21-2011 | 07:18 PM
#79
Kinda got sometime to make a few adjustments and round off some edges and recheck the port alignment of this new contraption.....I'll post some pics later tonight of this Hybrid SRI featuring a JWT velocity stack/bellmouth.......
