Since its been getting colder the cold starts have been getting worse. At start up the car revs itself up to 1500 rpm and idles there for about a minute before it goes back down to about 800 rpm. Then it sputters like its about to turn off and sounds like its revving even though it is not. If I drive off when its cold while stopped in traffic it jerks forward as if its trying to drive off or as if someone rear ended me but the rpms remain constant, so its as if its revving when really its not. I've posted a video of it after I had just started it for about 2 minutes. Car is a 2000 auto has 185k and no mods other then an aftermarket muffler that previous owner had put on since the original had a leak. I also found a stain of what seemed like coolant under the passenger side this is the first time I notice it. Btw car does turn off sometimes right after start up when it sputters.



The video is not the best but you can hear when the car sounds like its sputtering/stuttering, also theres an "electric" whistle sound you can hear, this is the first time I hear this but its sounds like a buzzer

 

I did a couple searches but didn't find a solution to the problem.

 

Based on your tem gauge the engine is not completely cold.... and no SES light... I would say start with the leak ... it might just be coolant hose. Also check to see if the coolant is full... other than that drive it until the SES light comes on and then check the codes..

 

The electrical like whistle noise might be the alternator, had same exact kind of problem and having my alternator go bad within 2 weeks.

 

IACV? They most commonly go bad after a good freeze which freezes the IACV housing which is bolted to the bottom of TB. The gasket between the 2 is not cold friendly. Easiest way to check this would be to remove your intake piping and look into your throttle body before the butterfly and see if you see any engine coolant.

 

After the car warmed up its gone. You'll see in the next 2 vids I post.

Its more of a buzz sound it came out as a whistle in the vid but I still believe your right because it was coming from the alternator side.

Ok thanks I will check.

 

i dont have a 00vi but... i would have to say the IACV as well, im not sure if its different but i would try cleaning it first

its probably your lower intake gasket if the IACV doesnt solve your problem. replace the lower gasket and you should be good to go

 

This video is from a few hours later at initial start up.



As you can see the idle climb back up after coming back into park from drive etc.

This next video is 5 minutes after the above one.



As you can see after it warms up everything is fine.

 

thats your lower intake gasket dude. replace it and you'll be straight

 

But how come it goes away when the car warms up

 

Coolant circulates thru the IACV for cold start and once the water is warmer than the air it is used to change the air temp of the air coming in thru the iacv via sourcing coolant from the main heat source (combustion area)It's a preset idle to faster warm your car up to normal operating temperature on them cold colddays. There are no IACV adjustments but I believe you can take your negative cable off for thirty minutes and when you crank it again your ecu will learn the idle all over again via computer. It's just going to drive like that when in that mode. Most likely til the thermostat opens or close. / fill your motor mounts solid

 

Everything expands when hot stopping the leak.

I bet it's a vacuum leak, too.

 

yup the lower gasket is made of metal over time it gets thin and just altogether worn out. now, when you reach operating temp on the other hand, everything expands and ends up "filling in" the gaps made from the worn gasket

100% sure on this one trust me thats your problem
dealer part only its about 60-90 bones labors not bad about 3 hrs tops just dont forget those stubborn manifold bracket bolts THEY SUCK

good luck dude post back when everythings peachy

 

Ok thanks guys anyone have a part number or diagram of the exact gasket? Kind of expensive for just a gasket ****ing stealership

 

Is it the one between the uim and lim or the one under the lim?

 

i may have this problem too on my 2002, but its only immediately after cold start ups, no problems after running for more than a min or 2.
do the NWP spacers replace the lower intake gasket? ( im guessing not) :dumb

 

Yea prophecy99 that's how mine is after a couple mins its completely gone.

 

So I looked at autozones website and would something like this be sufficient considering it has all three gaskets

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...8854_207134_0_

or this felpro one

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...89_46006_5297_

 

yeah that will work personally i dont like autozone ive had too many bad experiences but felpro makes awesome gasket some are even better than factory

 

you can get away with only the lower the one on the cylinder heads but if it comes in a set why not your already there

 

Yea I was just using autozone as an example, usually for gaskets I go to carquest or napa but with felpro I can't go wrong I know I'm getting quality.

 

Yea while I'm in there I might as well do both

Is the manifold removal a straight forward process? I assume it is I remember reading the diy a while back but I forget.

 

yeah its not bad just dont remove any vacuum lines you dont have to. its a fairly simple job
and be sure to torque everything in the proper sequence and spec or you will have a leak for sure

 

i dont know too much about the 3.5s but spacers without gaskets= problems

 

You can always test that gasket by having someone watch the tachometer while you spray hairspray or starting fluid where you suspect the gasket not sealing. Be sure to communicate with someone with car experience inside the car that is familiar with the situation. I wouldnt dare get my wife to help me If you see an RPM jump bigger than your already seeing in the cold. It's leaking. It's getting unaccounted for air into the intake causing - MassAirFlowSensors, IntakeAirTemps. ThrottlePosition & IdleAirControlValve to all have inaccurate readings and at risk of detonation. A known head gasket killer and the cold is no joke and not on the HEAD GASKETS side for winning. I lost a head gasket just this morning on a different vehicle of mine Best of luck.

 

RTV

 

good ****

 

Just downloaded the fsm, anybody know where to find the intake manifold removal and torque specs, etc.

 

Nevermind found it.

 

I am having IDENTICAL problems to your maxima. Instead of a whistle, its a buzzing noise like something is rolling around inside the engine. Were you able to find a solution? Please let me know!

 

Not yet, the buzzing is said to be the alternator by many. My problem with the jerking has to do with an intake manifold gasket leak which is independent of the buzzing.

 

Im going to clean out the IACV and TB tomorrow, hopefully that does the trick. I recently replaced the water pump and wondering if theres any correlation.

Just earlier today, when I was driving . . I noticed the engine was struggling and shaking. Not looking too good for the VQ.