Max_Kings Progress Thread
03-01-2011, 05:21 PM
#42
Bad news, they couldn't cut out the rust and weld a new one in since it was rusted all the way to the ends so they have to replace it all!
There goes $400 dollars that puts me back on funds for the coilovers till later
There goes $400 dollars that puts me back on funds for the coilovers till later
03-01-2011, 06:25 PM
#43
I take it you had to pay them for their time regardless correct?
03-02-2011, 09:46 PM
#44
Well I was sneaky and drove past to see what they actually were doing and the car was up on the lift with the front end removed, so it was kind of a too late thing already.
03-03-2011, 12:03 PM
#46
Well picked up the car today and all of a sudden the price was $600 
I immediately argued with the old **** since he had gave me a quick estimate of $430 the first time and told me $450 on the phone later. He said he couldn't do it because he had to get a whole new support all around the front and that cost $380 alone, I checked Courtesy parts and it goes for around that price so I guess he wasn't lying. I got him to do it for $500 flat and drove off pissed off about spending all that ****ing money. This is everything they replaced
I immediately argued with the old **** since he had gave me a quick estimate of $430 the first time and told me $450 on the phone later. He said he couldn't do it because he had to get a whole new support all around the front and that cost $380 alone, I checked Courtesy parts and it goes for around that price so I guess he wasn't lying. I got him to do it for $500 flat and drove off pissed off about spending all that ****ing money. This is everything they replaced
03-03-2011, 01:11 PM
#47
For $500 you got a steal bro.
I would have made it myself, but not many people have the facilities and resources to do that.
I wouldn't complain, that really is cheap, I know it seems like a lot for something that looks so simple, but if it's a $400 part, you paid nothing in labour. You got out without paying for them to check/attempt to fix it by welding it too. I'd go back and thank them.
I would have made it myself, but not many people have the facilities and resources to do that.
I wouldn't complain, that really is cheap, I know it seems like a lot for something that looks so simple, but if it's a $400 part, you paid nothing in labour. You got out without paying for them to check/attempt to fix it by welding it too. I'd go back and thank them.
03-03-2011, 02:15 PM
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,786
For $500 you got a steal bro.
I would have made it myself, but not many people have the facilities and resources to do that.
I wouldn't complain, that really is cheap, I know it seems like a lot for something that looks so simple, but if it's a $400 part, you paid nothing in labour. You got out without paying for them to check/attempt to fix it by welding it too. I'd go back and thank them.
I would have made it myself, but not many people have the facilities and resources to do that.
I wouldn't complain, that really is cheap, I know it seems like a lot for something that looks so simple, but if it's a $400 part, you paid nothing in labour. You got out without paying for them to check/attempt to fix it by welding it too. I'd go back and thank them.
03-03-2011, 02:42 PM
#49
Well no of course I left on a good note the old mans a nice guy just can't understand him sometimes, they are polish and his English is bad 
I knew it wasn't a bad price after seeing how much the part cost I was just mad I just had to dish out $500 on this car and gained no HP 
I knew it wasn't a bad price after seeing how much the part cost I was just mad I just had to dish out $500 on this car and gained no HP
03-03-2011, 06:04 PM
#51
This intake will being going on hopefully tonight
Its made of a 350Z stainless steel maf adapter, a spectre coupler, blox velocity stack, and a blox filter. All this cost just under $80 bucks
Its made of a 350Z stainless steel maf adapter, a spectre coupler, blox velocity stack, and a blox filter. All this cost just under $80 bucks
03-03-2011, 06:21 PM
#52
Nice looking setup on that intake you got, It looks awesome man! Just like tuner said that really is a deal you got man. look at it this way now you got all those reinforcements brand new so you won't EVER have to worry about it again.
I would maybe hit it with some anti rust paint or something you know to try to prevent it from happening
I would maybe hit it with some anti rust paint or something you know to try to prevent it from happening
Last edited by Slick_54; 03-03-2011 at 07:29 PM.
03-04-2011, 01:10 AM
#55
Haha yea guys I know it was a good deal I was just upset I had to dish that much money with no performance upgrade but whatever it is what it is I'm happy with the car now
Anyway I just installed the intake, it was a tight *** fit but I'm going to shoot a video in the morning of it to see what you homies think.
Btw went to autozone and ordered the felpro valve cover gaskets so going to be tearing into that intake manifold soon to fix that intake manifold leak and that valve cover leak. Maxed out I might need you the day I do that **** since you have more experience then I do with it.
Anyway I just installed the intake, it was a tight *** fit but I'm going to shoot a video in the morning of it to see what you homies think.
Btw went to autozone and ordered the felpro valve cover gaskets so going to be tearing into that intake manifold soon to fix that intake manifold leak and that valve cover leak. Maxed out I might need you the day I do that **** since you have more experience then I do with it.
03-04-2011, 01:13 AM
#56
Btw one of the corners of the maf broke when removing the old rusted screw but I just started the car and don't seem like theres any leaks but like I said I'll report in the morning after I get to take it for a run.
Also I have a megan racing rear section on the way so hopefully that will make it sound like a beast
Also I have a megan racing rear section on the way so hopefully that will make it sound like a beast
03-04-2011, 08:48 AM
#59
I see you want to enter for the useless post of the month contest, you need to contact 'Nmexmax', tell him where you posted and he will enter you to win!
03-04-2011, 08:08 PM
#62
you need to lose the baffle, and the stock intake snorkle is just stopping airflow because it's not connected to the vacuum, this is a common misconception many .ORGers have, thinking it will 'RAM'/direct air better if you leave it on.
Either way, short rams sound nice, and are better than stock. Good deal on a Velocity stack and filter, PM me if you know where to get that deal again
Either way, short rams sound nice, and are better than stock. Good deal on a Velocity stack and filter, PM me if you know where to get that deal again
03-05-2011, 03:13 AM
#63
you need to lose the baffle, and the stock intake snorkle is just stopping airflow because it's not connected to the vacuum, this is a common misconception many .ORGers have, thinking it will 'RAM'/direct air better if you leave it on.
Either way, short rams sound nice, and are better than stock. Good deal on a Velocity stack and filter, PM me if you know where to get that deal again
Either way, short rams sound nice, and are better than stock. Good deal on a Velocity stack and filter, PM me if you know where to get that deal again
do you mean to get rid of the snorkel and rest of that stock intake crap? And what do I do with that little sensor thats clipped to the snorkel?
03-05-2011, 05:56 AM
#65
I just need a filter/velocity stack for a good price. I'm doing all the pipe myself.
The baffle is the black 'box' that the vacuum lines connect to. Replace it with a mid-pipe, you need to reinstall the vacuum lines to that midpipe. You can buy pipes with the nipples on them already.
Yes removethe stock ducting (snorkel), two clips and unplug the sensor, should come off.
Most guys just let that sensor hang out in the engine bay. I suggest mounting it somehow close to the filter location if you're not going to install it in the intake.
Also, mount that dam intake man, wtf can't just have it flopping around in there.
The baffle is the black 'box' that the vacuum lines connect to. Replace it with a mid-pipe, you need to reinstall the vacuum lines to that midpipe. You can buy pipes with the nipples on them already.
Yes removethe stock ducting (snorkel), two clips and unplug the sensor, should come off.
Most guys just let that sensor hang out in the engine bay. I suggest mounting it somehow close to the filter location if you're not going to install it in the intake.
Also, mount that dam intake man, wtf can't just have it flopping around in there.
03-05-2011, 04:37 PM
#67
ive been married for 2 years as well!!
if you do decide to do away with the stock piping the sensor that is plugged in is the intake air temperature sensor or "IAT" you can put that anywhere in the intake stream ,hell, you could even leave it out altogether with no adverse affects at all like tunermax said
if you do decide to do away with the stock piping the sensor that is plugged in is the intake air temperature sensor or "IAT" you can put that anywhere in the intake stream ,hell, you could even leave it out altogether with no adverse affects at all like tunermax said
03-05-2011, 05:52 PM
#68
if you do decide to do away with the stock piping the sensor that is plugged in is the intake air temperature sensor or "IAT" you can put that anywhere in the intake stream ,hell, you could even leave it out altogether with no adverse affects at all like tunermax said
The IAT is a relevant part of the ECU mapping, it should be connected. I just said most guys dont bother.
I for one, WILL be hooking it up.
And it should be installed before the MAF.
03-05-2011, 06:18 PM
#69
Well the location its originally at seems like an anywhere location anyway I'm probably going to get rid of the scoop etc but I'm leaving in the baffle as tuner calls iot since I read somewhere its designed to resonate at a certain frequency so by replacing it I would have to figure out the optimal length of a midpipe that would resonate at the "ideal" frequency, so I decided to never mess with it on any of my cars.
I'm probably going to get rid of the scoop etc but I'm leaving in the baffle as tuner calls iot since I read somewhere its designed to resonate at a certain frequency so by replacing it I would have to figure out the optimal length of a midpipe that would resonate at the "ideal" frequency, so I decided to never mess with it on any of my cars.
03-05-2011, 06:32 PM
#70
Well the location its originally at seems like an anywhere location anyway I'm probably going to get rid of the scoop etc but I'm leaving in the baffle as tuner calls iot since I read somewhere its designed to resonate at a certain frequency so by replacing it I would have to figure out the optimal length of a midpipe that would resonate at the "ideal" frequency, so I decided to never mess with it on any of my cars.
I'm probably going to get rid of the scoop etc but I'm leaving in the baffle as tuner calls iot since I read somewhere its designed to resonate at a certain frequency so by replacing it I would have to figure out the optimal length of a midpipe that would resonate at the "ideal" frequency, so I decided to never mess with it on any of my cars.
03-06-2011, 02:44 AM
#72
@Tuner, yea you're right, we actually both are this is more of a preference thing then anything so we'll see what happens bro I would probably end up getting a mid pipe anyway since I'm soo ****ing trigger happy when it comes to purchasing more mods 
@Smoke, IAT can just be placed near the filter. In the stock variation its no where near the maf or anything of such sort its thrown where air is entering the filter from so why would it need to be put into the intake itself now after the filter?
@Smoke, IAT can just be placed near the filter. In the stock variation its no where near the maf or anything of such sort its thrown where air is entering the filter from so why would it need to be put into the intake itself now after the filter?
03-06-2011, 11:50 AM
#73
not in your cup holder
i must not have made myself clear
03-06-2011, 01:07 PM
#75
And I just wanted to clarify what I said, I didn't want him or any other to think I said:
Let it hang out in the engine bay, no problem! Because I didn't.
You made yourself perfectly clear to me, just not to yourself I guess lol.
03-06-2011, 04:53 PM
#77
First you said in the intake stream.
Then you said out of the intake stream.
And I just wanted to clarify what I said, I didn't want him or any other to think I said:
Let it hang out in the engine bay, no problem! Because I didn't.
You made yourself perfectly clear to me, just not to yourself I guess lol.
Then you said out of the intake stream.
And I just wanted to clarify what I said, I didn't want him or any other to think I said:
Let it hang out in the engine bay, no problem! Because I didn't.
You made yourself perfectly clear to me, just not to yourself I guess lol.
03-06-2011, 05:05 PM
#78
Clarifying two contradictory statements you made in the same thread isn't worth your time?
I'll keep that in mind for further posts.
I just wanted to clarify what I said, and make sure that MY information was not getting misconstrued by other people reading, clearly you don't care about facts or clear instruction, or clarifying what you mean,
or maybe you just don't have a ****king clue what you're talking about, so maybe you shouldn't post at all?
That would make much less work for those of us around here who try to keep information relevant and factual.
I'll keep that in mind for further posts.
I just wanted to clarify what I said, and make sure that MY information was not getting misconstrued by other people reading, clearly you don't care about facts or clear instruction, or clarifying what you mean,
or maybe you just don't have a ****king clue what you're talking about, so maybe you shouldn't post at all?
That would make much less work for those of us around here who try to keep information relevant and factual.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 03-06-2011 at 05:07 PM.