Max_Kings Progress Thread
02-23-2011, 09:58 PM
#1
Max_Kings Progress Thread
Well I've had the car for a few months now, its an 00' SE A/T with 185k and so far I haven't done anything to it other then an oil change, new filter, and today got a Cattman Y-pipe installed. Other then this I have found many issues wrong with the car.
1. Intake Manifold gaskets are leaking http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...lem-video.html
2. Today found out rear valve cover is leaking oil all crazy.
3. Oil pressure switch is also leaking oil
4. But biggest of all the support beam (or whatever its called) under the radiator is soo rusted that it actually has a hole right through it and its crumbling with every touch I can literally break pieces off of it. The cross member looks like its actually going to rip right out of it.
So I've decided to fix number 4 first before anything.
Questions for my bros.
1. How much should I expect to pay for this repair?
2. Should I take it to my local body shop or is a certain type of shop recommended for this?
Thanks in advance guys!!!
Btw didn't really get to feel out the Cattman Y-pipe since it started raining and snowing at the same time (yeah Chicago and its fcuked up weather) and I didn't want to do any rough driving because I don't want that support beam just falling through on me.
1. Intake Manifold gaskets are leaking http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...lem-video.html
2. Today found out rear valve cover is leaking oil all crazy.
3. Oil pressure switch is also leaking oil
4. But biggest of all the support beam (or whatever its called) under the radiator is soo rusted that it actually has a hole right through it and its crumbling with every touch I can literally break pieces off of it. The cross member looks like its actually going to rip right out of it.
So I've decided to fix number 4 first before anything.
Questions for my bros.
1. How much should I expect to pay for this repair?
2. Should I take it to my local body shop or is a certain type of shop recommended for this?
Thanks in advance guys!!!
Btw didn't really get to feel out the Cattman Y-pipe since it started raining and snowing at the same time (yeah Chicago and its fcuked up weather) and I didn't want to do any rough driving because I don't want that support beam just falling through on me.
02-23-2011, 09:59 PM
#2
Btw pics of the car located here http://forums.maxima.org/members-rid...king-back.html
Feedback is welcome
Feedback is welcome
02-23-2011, 11:21 PM
#4
Yea I'm going to visit a shop tomorrow about that radiator support that one is first priority. The rear valve cover gasket and intake gaskets will be done all at the same time since they are in the same area.
02-23-2011, 11:26 PM
#5
find a frame shop....2-300 bucks they can fix
valve cover gasket...you can do yourself just take some time
intake leak should be fixed when you get the rear valve cover fixed..if ya put it on properly
valve cover gasket...you can do yourself just take some time
intake leak should be fixed when you get the rear valve cover fixed..if ya put it on properly
02-23-2011, 11:29 PM
#6
I usually get the felpro gaskets they never fail me since I suck at trying to use sealant I have the syndrome of putting it every where except where its supposed to go and ending up with a worse leak 
02-24-2011, 04:48 AM
#10
^Are you talking about the Crank POS sensor?
IIRC there isn't a low oil sensor on the VQ30, just the pressure sensor. I may be wrong though.
And your rad support just needs a grinder, and a plate bend and welded over it. If its bowed at all you will have to straighten it though. A pic of it would help that decision if you're unsure.
Get a quote on a frame/welding shop doing it, should be under $150-200 I would think. Much more than that and you may want to consider buying a new one and installing it yourself. If you do that make sure you spray rock guard on that puppy before installation. They are infamous for rotting.
IIRC there isn't a low oil sensor on the VQ30, just the pressure sensor. I may be wrong though.
And your rad support just needs a grinder, and a plate bend and welded over it. If its bowed at all you will have to straighten it though. A pic of it would help that decision if you're unsure.
Get a quote on a frame/welding shop doing it, should be under $150-200 I would think. Much more than that and you may want to consider buying a new one and installing it yourself. If you do that make sure you spray rock guard on that puppy before installation. They are infamous for rotting.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 02-24-2011 at 04:50 AM.
02-24-2011, 05:07 AM
#11
you see oil leaking from the bottom? i'm trying to see how you figured your rear VC was leaking. i've been thinking about that for some time because i've been smelling a burnt oil smell for a little while now
02-24-2011, 05:09 AM
#12
When he did his Y pipe Id assume. You will usually see some wetness on the side of the block at the rear. Oil burning smell is usually a good indicator that you need to check that valve cover.
*sigh* i hope not...i dont feel like doing all of that...if i have to i'm going to purchase the NWP spacer for the DE-K and do it all at once.
02-24-2011, 11:31 AM
#14
Yea when the y-pipe was off I was able to see it coming from there it has dripped down all over the power steering, the headers, and everything in that area.
As far as the switch goes, I'm taking about a little black switch that's connected to a harness but the switch is plugged right in the back of the lower oil pan on the firewall side.
As far as the switch goes, I'm taking about a little black switch that's connected to a harness but the switch is plugged right in the back of the lower oil pan on the firewall side.
02-24-2011, 11:49 AM
#16
I'd just pull the sensor out brake clean the heck out of it and put some gasket maker on there, and reinstall. But you've got more important stuff to do first.
02-24-2011, 02:51 PM
#17
Ok so visited 2 local shops.
1. Polish guys who I have dealt with a couple times for body work, reasonable guys don't go for the calculator. He said it would cost a total of $430 to replace the whole core support (that's what its referred to instead of what I've been referring to it as), because the part is $280 and $150 labor. Then he seen the expression on my face and said you know what come back Monday when we are free of all these cars we have and maybe we can just cut off all the rust and weld in some metal for around $250.
2. Place down the street from the first place. They immediately said they can't weld it its probably rusted all the way around. The guy sat on the computer ( I was surprised they had one since their shop looks crappy) for about 10 mins took down the vin # yada yada yada and next thing you know he prints a long estimate that has every little thing they would remove, how much time it would take, and how much it would cost in labor. At the bottom a fine total of $1056
. Mind you the part is $414 and the rest is labor.
Obviously I'm going back Monday to the 1st guys and going with the second solution.
1. Polish guys who I have dealt with a couple times for body work, reasonable guys don't go for the calculator
. He said it would cost a total of $430 to replace the whole core support (that's what its referred to instead of what I've been referring to it as), because the part is $280 and $150 labor. Then he seen the expression on my face and said you know what come back Monday when we are free of all these cars we have and maybe we can just cut off all the rust and weld in some metal for around $250.2. Place down the street from the first place. They immediately said they can't weld it its probably rusted all the way around. The guy sat on the computer ( I was surprised they had one since their shop looks crappy) for about 10 mins took down the vin # yada yada yada and next thing you know he prints a long estimate that has every little thing they would remove, how much time it would take, and how much it would cost in labor. At the bottom a fine total of $1056
. Mind you the part is $414 and the rest is labor.Obviously I'm going back Monday to the 1st guys and going with the second solution.
02-25-2011, 08:45 AM
#21
I'd go for $250 that's pretty reasonable.
Then again, I'd never pay to have this done, I'd do it myself, and without pictures I can't tell you how much needs to be done or if it's even save-able.
Bottom line, If they will honour the quote of $250, I say go for it.
Then again, I'd never pay to have this done, I'd do it myself, and without pictures I can't tell you how much needs to be done or if it's even save-able.
Bottom line, If they will honour the quote of $250, I say go for it.
02-25-2011, 08:18 PM
#22
Yea I was thinking if they can do it for the $250 I'll go for it since a lot of ppl have been telling me thats the route they go when they run into this problem, but if thats not possible I'll just do the whole replace for the $430 which is still reasonable since the other shop quoted me more then double that.
02-25-2011, 08:28 PM
#23
Newb question: I noticed my car has gotten louder since the initial y-pipe install, how do I know if I've developed a leak? Is the only way by getting under the car turning it on and seeing if any exhaust smoke leaks out of any areas?
02-25-2011, 09:17 PM
#24
02-26-2011, 07:34 AM
#26
Rolling under it when it's cold, starting it and checking it before it gets hot by running your hands around the headers/ypipe and cat flanges, etc. (don't actually touch the pipes obviously).
Only realistic way to be sure.
Only realistic way to be sure.
02-26-2011, 09:41 AM
#27
02-27-2011, 04:37 PM
#29
Ok so last night SES light came on, just went to autozone they pulled a P0420 code, one of its reasons is for a bank 1 failed precat. I'm guessing this is because of the y-pipe install?
02-28-2011, 09:34 AM
#30
where in chicago do you live?
02-28-2011, 08:11 PM
#32
i was just thinking... you said you think you have an exhaust leak right?
is it possible that you have a leak where the y-pipe meets the cat?
that could throw a po420, but that usually means you need a cat.
is it possible that you have a leak where the y-pipe meets the cat?
that could throw a po420, but that usually means you need a cat.
02-28-2011, 08:21 PM
#33
y-pipe to cat has new gaskets and bolts so i doubt it, y-pipe to headers i had to reuse the old gaskets since for some reason the ones from courtesy parts were too small in diameter since i just realized i ordered the 01 gaskets guess they are different. Maybe the removal of the precats resulted in the cat getting more build up getting clogged?
02-28-2011, 08:28 PM
#34
cats dont go bad out of nowhere it was probably on its way out for a while.
just a thought; the lower intake gasket caused your fuel trim to go rich inorder to keep the engine running then the y-pipe was installed so the pre-cats coud no longer "soak up" the excess fuel thus resulting in the post cat taking the brunt of it and finally calling it quits.
thats just a theory
is your car really quiet?
just a thought; the lower intake gasket caused your fuel trim to go rich inorder to keep the engine running then the y-pipe was installed so the pre-cats coud no longer "soak up" the excess fuel thus resulting in the post cat taking the brunt of it and finally calling it quits.
thats just a theory
is your car really quiet?
02-28-2011, 08:44 PM
#37
They couldn't do it today since 2 guys called in sick and one guy can't do it (this is what I was told ) so tomorrow morning I'm going again hopefully this time no sick people
) so tomorrow morning I'm going again hopefully this time no sick people
02-28-2011, 08:54 PM
#38
02-28-2011, 08:57 PM
#39
Haha yea bro I have no idea it might be running rich, might be running lean, I have no clue. But as soon as I can get that core support fixed then I'll dig in to that intake manifold and install that test pipe that's on the way and go from there.