Guys,
I'm having a rather hard time re-installing my 6-speed transmission. Getting the transmission to clear the subframe and the selector arm to clear the chassis at the same time is proving difficult. I've attempted using both a transmission jack and just arm strength to lift it into place. Neither has proven successful up to this point.

So, does anyone have any tips that can make this install easier? My car is on jack stands, I don't have a lift, unfortunately. And, the engine was lowered a few inches, to approximately the same height it was at when the transmission was taken out. I was thinking that removing the driver side control arm and the selector arm may make this easier. Does anyone here have any experience with this?

 

I haven't done a 3.5 yet, but loosening engine mounts can help, if you havent tried that already.

Keep at it, you'll get it man.

 

Hmmm, well, the cross member is already loosened. I don't have anymore mounts to loosen.

 

I did mine not too long ago. What are you using to hold up the engine?

 

A floor jack with a piece of wood between the cross member and the lifting plate on the jack.

 

Ok. So, if you're still stuck, here's a method that should help you get closer.

*Disclaimer: Be cautious. VERY CAUTIOUS.*Be patient. I can't emphasize this enough. Don't rush it or you could regret it. Take your time and know it's almost over. GL!
Feel free to PM me with any questions.

 

Nelledge, the engine is already lowered just, with the jack supporting it from under the crossmember. I'm not sure that moving it to the oil pan change anything. In any case, my lower oil pan is in terrible shape. It's next on the list of things to replace because, I fear it may fail if even a rock hits it.

 

+1 this is exactly how I did mine, makes it a lot easier.

 

You'll be surprised at the clearance allowed by removing the crossmember. If your oil pan is that bad, I don't think you should wait any longer to replace it anyway. However, if you really don't want to switch jacking points, you could try to remove both the gear selector and the mount from the tranny until after you have it mated. This might help a little. Personally, I think you're going to have an extremely hard time with that crossmember in place.

 

The lower oil pan will be replaced as soon as the replacement gets here. I'm just waiting on courtesy parts to ship the part.

Since I'm still waiting, I'm going to give the install 1 more try with the cross member in place. I may also try removing the upper transmission mount. As for the gear selector, I'm worried that it would be impossible to get back in once the transmission is in the car (can anyone attest to this?).

I have to say that i don't think I'm comfortable with jacking the engine on the oil pan, even with a new one installed. I will be laying right under it, along with whoever it is that helps me and, I would hate to think what would happen if the jack failed. I wouldn't be opposed to doing this with an engine hoist, though.

 

For future reference. You should give DaveB a call at Southpoint Nissan. Org vendor and usually beats Courtesy price. Great guy.

I'm giving the advice from personal experience. I removed the selector. Put the gear shifter in neutral and it slides right back into place.

The Nissan FSM MT-13:If you're worried about the jack falling, place a jackstand at a point that will give safety redundancy. Also, aren't you worried about the same thing if you have the jack on the crossmember?

 

I did give Dave B a call about the lower oil pan a few months ago. From my recollection, the price difference wasn't that large. Ordering from Courtesy was more convenient this time around so, I just went that route.

Really great to hear about the selector. I'm definitely going to take that out.
I don't have my copy of the FSM in front of me. Do you know if it tells you what position neutral is?

I am familiar with the FSM instructions on transmission removal and installation but, I was able to get the transmission out with the cross member installed without too much trouble. So, I figured (perhaps incorrectly), that I could do the same in reverse.
Indeed, the jack could fail with the cross member loading it. But, a few things: With the jack under the cross member, I feel there is a lower chance of it slipping. There are teeth on the jack's "lifting cup" that fit on either side of the cross member. The cross member would have to climb over those teeth to cause the jack to slip. But, also, and perhaps more importantly, the 4 cross member bolts are still screwed into the chassis. I backed all 4 of them out and then, screwed them back in 1 and a half turns. A jack under the upper oil pan could provide similar protection. It's something I didn't consider.

 

The price difference isn't phenomenal but the knowledge and customer service is. Getting the transmission out is always easier than installing it. Here's a link to the FSM. Don't worry about the position of the selector. It will find itself.

 

Indeed, the customer service at Dave B.'s place is better.

Thanks for the help.

 

You're welcome. Have you got it mated, yet?

 

Nope, I just got home from work. Help won't be available until Wednesday. I'll have to wait until then.

 

Just got it back in now. Thanks.

 

Cool! You should post the final method and tricks you used to get it in while it's still fresh in your head. It may help someone that finds this thread in the future.

 

+1 I am going to be installing a clutch soon myself.

 

Ok. I didn't bother removing the cross member. Dropping the engine a few inches with a floor jack was sufficient. I just removed the cross member bolts. Be sure to pull them out completely. I may have damaged one because I only left about 1 full thread engaged and it was pulled out by the weight of the engine (I thought I had more, noob mistake). It's nothing a die and tap can't fix, though.

I had 2 guys help me. I laid under the nose of the car, one guy laid parallel to the driver side door and another guy laid under the car, right behind the front axle.

We lifted the transmission, all three of us and, rotated the transmission such that the shifter control arm cleared the chassis and so that the input shaft mated with the spline in the clutch disc. The transmission was just far enough from the engine that the mating pins just grazed the mating surface on the transmission

The next step was to rotate the transmission counter clockwise, so that the transmission was properly oriented.

After that, I gave it a slight push to mate the two properly and then, I screwed in and slightly tightened the two long bolts that go beneath the starter. All the while, the three of us supported the transmission under the heavier, far side.

Once the two bolts were tightened, we let go. I installed the other 8 flange bolts while a friend simultaneously installed the bolts on the upper mount.

Took all of two minutes. I'll have no issue taking the car apart to do the rear main seal in the summer.

 

Thanks for the info! Hope my rear main is ok I'm not looking forward to replacing it .