o.k there is a bunch of threads floating around here about the LR or BBmaf... i would love for this forum to have a clearcut discussion on what are the settings for a LR maf on a VAFC... no matter what i did, the car didnt do anything but putter, i would love to know what the in and out settings should be.. somebody said 4in 4out and that didnt work for me

 

No one has got it to work as of this writing.


If you have patience and a wideband, try making it work by adding a boatload of fuel at idle, and moving on from there.

 

I got mine working last nigth flawlesly with a VAFCII you will need to add like +38% all over the narrow throtle setting to keep the SHTFT within 1-10% and tune the HI throtle with a widebnad on a Dyno or the streer ....

 

Are u serious????

 

Nice, would you mind posting further details? I had stated in prior posts, before I found the IN/OUT method for the SAFC, I was adding around +28 all around.


1.) Wideband I'm assuming?
2.) AT or MT
3.) Intake set-up (breather or properly connected PCV)
4.) RPM settings & fuel/MAF adjustments (+/-% & @ what RPM)
5.) LVT/HVT settings
6.) How did you monitor STFT's?


Like I said, all it takes is a WB & patience as I almost had mine (SAFC) working w/o using the IN/OUT feature.

 

This is exactly what I told him yesterday on the phone

 

Whatwas the in and out setting???

So I start from here lol

 

In out doesn't matter on the VAFC, or any AFC that doesn't support the global scaling feature, so just use 1/1, 2/2, etc... as long as they're the same.

 

O.k sir... if u say so.... I do have a wideband, this seems like a whole day thing....

 

How much will that retard timing?

 

I believe after a point, it might reach some threshold because i had the same thought. But when i had it partially working w/o the I/O settings, it was insane compared to stock, so I'm not sure it's affected too bad if any.

Aside from that Jime and Aaron seemed to both prove that after a certain point (32-33) timing didn't affect power output.

 

The timing with the LRMAF and the VAFC doesnt get retarded since the output voltage of the maf with the bigger housing lowers significantly and when you add fuel with the VAFC it raise the voltage back to normal I verify it with the Datascan

You cant change the in out settings on the VFAC so it 1in 1out

I monitor the SHTFT with Blazt cable and Nissan Datasacan software

My car its a 2003 Altima SE 4spd AT, ebay headers, Custom 3" exhaust, Custom 3.5" SRI, Intake Spacers, Plate to eliminate the intake butterfly and port matched LWIM and UPIM..

I still dont have my car fully tuned but it runs more or less like before with stock maf setup

 

That makes sense. I didn't think about the maf tube altering it, only the vafc like we would normally use it.

 

Did you ever get it working correctly? I just got a hold of a VAFC2 and am working on a bigger maf.

One other question I had, I have searched through a number of different threads but haven't found a definitive answer. I hate asking questions like this but which LR maf housing am I looking for? I initially thought they were all pretty much the same but now I'm just not sure with different things I've read. So any help would be appreciated.

 

Lol my transmission went down before I could've experimented bro but if you also have a wideband then u should be good to go..... I forgot the year land rover, I wanna say 97-02 or suttn like that

 

Oh and tuning with a VAFC will probebly be a bish, I wanna say sensor setting was 1in 4out but don't go trying that cause I'm not sure

 

Try 2 in 8 out. There were no changes needed for me at idle and low throttle but it was very rich at high throttle.

I have 3.5" piping from the filter to the TB so this may have an effect on the settings.

 

Hmmm, I may give that a go before trying bigger injectors with a 3.25" ID tube.

Thanks for the info.

 

I wish I could figure out what the settings were when using the greddy emanage blue. Because with my current tune I should be able to turn a few switches and it will convert my numbers. I think only one person on here knows the answer but I don't see him in here anymore.

 

after reading through the manual, I think the problem is that the VAFC has a pressure sensor pre-selected, which you can't change. Where as in the SAFC you can choose the Hot-Wire sensor for a MAF. So I think our best bet is to do what Payu did and just add a ton of correction at the narrow throttle setting.


Can someone tell me what SHTFT stands for?

 

+1 on the eb. I'll be working on it this summer at some point, trying to figure out the correct dial settings for the lrmaf.

 

Yo where was that info on 2in 8out at when I had the LRmaf and was trying to figure this out at?... now I gotta go try this again

 

SHTFT: Short term fuel trims I think.

 

I am doing this off my memory it should be pretty close to actual settings
Mine worked pretty good with VAFCII LRMAF and a 3.5"SRI on my 2003 Altima 4spd AT
PVC eliminated just a cap on the IM open valve cover vent Stock ECU
No in out settings just 1in 1out (VAFCII)
LVT to HVT 3100 and 3000
TE Points Lo 20% Hi 70%
Low throttle High Throttle
LVT HVT LVT HVT
1000 +32 3100 +24 +20 +20
1400 +30 3500 +22 +20 +14
1800 +28 3900 +20 +20 +14
2200 +28 4200 +14 +20 +13
2600 +28 4600 +12 +20 +12
3000 +28 5000 +11 +20 +11
5400 +9 +9
6000 +9 +9
6500 +9 +9

 

I'm assuming you used a WB to verify the AFR was in a suitable range? Of course you did, because you know what you're doing.

But I'm making the point that not everyone's will work with THESE same settings. ... you really need a WB as I've stated for the past 4 years, and couple that with some effort, it can work, just need some time, patience, and a WB.

 

Yup tuned with my LM2
Maybe settings wont work for everyone but a good starting point....

 

This is great info.

I'm sure you could also try and find out which 'in' and 'out' setting gets you close to the correct MAF conversion and have less of a correction % but if you don't want to go through the hassle of that than Payu's starting point is great.

Do people actually try to make adjustments without a WB? You would have to be an idiot. You could totally kill your engine.

 

It's a great starting point and I'm glad I have someone else confirm what I've been satin for years and years.

Before I found out about the global scaling factor of the SAFCII, I was doing what you were doing, adding quite a bit (I remember adding +27 just to get it to idle correctly, then adding about 25% to get it to go WOT w/o falling on it's face).

I think we need more people like you who actually go out and try it vs the easy way out.

You'd be surprised at some of the stuff that has been going on here lately.