Approaching 200K: Need service/Maint. Advice
03-09-2011, 07:29 AM
#1
Approaching 200K: Need service/Maint. Advice
Yeah... another 5th gen soon rolling over into the 200K mile club 
I thought I would get some feedback with regards to any service/maintenance.
Here is a list of what I have already done in the last 30K miles.
1. Fresh brake fluid every year
2. Coolant drain and fill at radiator every year.
3. New pads and rotors last year.
4. Castrol gtx 5W-30 every 3000-3500 miles.
5. New belts and tensioner done last year.
6. Low side AC hose done last month.
7. All new suspension, converted to SE springs and Illuminas with new mounting hardware in Nov 10. Struts are older, bought in 07 and hv about 50K miles on them.
8. Spent way too much time doing sound deadening... but love it!
9. New tires in May 10, michelin mxv4 all around.
10. Trans fluid drain and fill done every 5000-6000 miles with regular dex III and no issues noted yet.
11. Blower motor replaced, Apr 09 with one from rockauto.
12. New Radiator, Mar 08.
13. New CV axles.. GSP Dec 10.
14. New sway bar bushings... May 10.
15. Rear VC gasket and tube seals... Nov 08
16. New Alternator.. 2009
17. Spark plugs... replaced with NGK coppers every 25K miles.
18. Air filter converted to drop in KN.
19. New Battery Jun 09.
On my list TO-DO:
1. Front VC gasket and new PCV valve
2. Seafoam motor.
3. Drop upper oil pan and fix oil leak.
4. Install warpspeed y-pipe.
5. Trans fluid replacement? Need tips on this.
Any other items I should be considering at this mileage?
She still runs like a champ... and we are hoping to pull another 50K out of her!
I thought I would get some feedback with regards to any service/maintenance.
Here is a list of what I have already done in the last 30K miles.
1. Fresh brake fluid every year
2. Coolant drain and fill at radiator every year.
3. New pads and rotors last year.
4. Castrol gtx 5W-30 every 3000-3500 miles.
5. New belts and tensioner done last year.
6. Low side AC hose done last month.
7. All new suspension, converted to SE springs and Illuminas with new mounting hardware in Nov 10. Struts are older, bought in 07 and hv about 50K miles on them.
8. Spent way too much time doing sound deadening... but love it!
9. New tires in May 10, michelin mxv4 all around.
10. Trans fluid drain and fill done every 5000-6000 miles with regular dex III and no issues noted yet.
11. Blower motor replaced, Apr 09 with one from rockauto.
12. New Radiator, Mar 08.
13. New CV axles.. GSP Dec 10.
14. New sway bar bushings... May 10.
15. Rear VC gasket and tube seals... Nov 08
16. New Alternator.. 2009
17. Spark plugs... replaced with NGK coppers every 25K miles.
18. Air filter converted to drop in KN.
19. New Battery Jun 09.
On my list TO-DO:
1. Front VC gasket and new PCV valve
2. Seafoam motor.
3. Drop upper oil pan and fix oil leak.
4. Install warpspeed y-pipe.
5. Trans fluid replacement? Need tips on this.
Any other items I should be considering at this mileage?
She still runs like a champ... and we are hoping to pull another 50K out of her!
03-09-2011, 10:12 AM
#2
If you have been doing trans fluid drain and fills every 6000 miles, you don't have to worry about changing the fluid. You could do a drain and fill every 30,000 miles and be just fine.
Brake fluid needs to be done, uh...never, unless there is something unusual going on or you just need to feel good about it. Do it every 10 years and forget it.
Coolant drain; again, unless you have something wrong with the system, there are all kinds of coolants out there that will last 100,000 miles or more. It is a closed system, best not to mess with it if it doesn't need it.
Sounds like you keep your Max in tip-top shape, congrats, I hope it goes 300,000 miles or more.
Brake fluid needs to be done, uh...never, unless there is something unusual going on or you just need to feel good about it. Do it every 10 years and forget it.
Coolant drain; again, unless you have something wrong with the system, there are all kinds of coolants out there that will last 100,000 miles or more. It is a closed system, best not to mess with it if it doesn't need it.
Sounds like you keep your Max in tip-top shape, congrats, I hope it goes 300,000 miles or more.
03-09-2011, 11:06 AM
#3
Thanks!
Yes, its our DD/Family car... so it has to always be in "pick up the keys and go" shape.
I agree with your comments, have been thinking to skip coolant this year and do it once every two years now.
Brake fluid is wierd, in FL i dont know if it is the heat and cold cycles... but i feel times the pedal get a little spongy and the fluid change gets it hard again.
Yes, its our DD/Family car... so it has to always be in "pick up the keys and go" shape.
I agree with your comments, have been thinking to skip coolant this year and do it once every two years now.
Brake fluid is wierd, in FL i dont know if it is the heat and cold cycles... but i feel times the pedal get a little spongy and the fluid change gets it hard again.
03-09-2011, 11:10 AM
#4
03-09-2011, 12:31 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,222
Thanks!
Yes, its our DD/Family car... so it has to always be in "pick up the keys and go" shape.
I agree with your comments, have been thinking to skip coolant this year and do it once every two years now.
Brake fluid is wierd, in FL i dont know if it is the heat and cold cycles... but i feel times the pedal get a little spongy and the fluid change gets it hard again.
Yes, its our DD/Family car... so it has to always be in "pick up the keys and go" shape.
I agree with your comments, have been thinking to skip coolant this year and do it once every two years now.
Brake fluid is wierd, in FL i dont know if it is the heat and cold cycles... but i feel times the pedal get a little spongy and the fluid change gets it hard again.
Really, what gets hard again? LOL!
03-09-2011, 12:37 PM
#6
Thanks Man. I was def racking up the miles, but with a 5 month old I have really "slowed" down in the last 8 months! I would have hit 200K probably in October 10 had i been doing the normal miles we drive.
Added hood struts... mine are failing too.
Added InCabin filter... car is garaged so its not been that dirty.
Added fuel filter... you know I have a fuel filter sitting in my parts box for the last 3 yrs, I have just never got to doing it!
Being a FL car... my oil cooler pipes and the underbody parts are in great shape!
Since I do coolant every year, my T-Stat has also been without issues.
Radiator hoses done as part of new radiator 2 yrs ago.
Added hood struts... mine are failing too.
Added InCabin filter... car is garaged so its not been that dirty.
Added fuel filter... you know I have a fuel filter sitting in my parts box for the last 3 yrs, I have just never got to doing it!
Being a FL car... my oil cooler pipes and the underbody parts are in great shape!
Since I do coolant every year, my T-Stat has also been without issues.
Radiator hoses done as part of new radiator 2 yrs ago.
03-09-2011, 12:45 PM
#8
Yeah.. I had a phantom coolant loss issue myself... it turned out to be the upper radiator hose being loose. I was scared that if I tightened it too much I'd break the plastic it was mounted it.
Note to self: Next time buy OEM clamps!
Note to self: Next time buy OEM clamps!
03-09-2011, 12:54 PM
#10
Interesting. Havent noticed anything like that in my Max yet!
Only leak i have right now is the upper oil pan.. but i dont loose more than a quarter quart between oil changes so I have been pushing it back... Hv to get sometime and take a weekend and get it done though :P
Only leak i have right now is the upper oil pan.. but i dont loose more than a quarter quart between oil changes so I have been pushing it back... Hv to get sometime and take a weekend and get it done though :P
03-10-2011, 05:01 AM
#12
I've been doing gravity bleed for the last 2 years and it's been the simplest, most effective method I have found other than using a motive pressure bleeder!
03-10-2011, 08:18 AM
#14
Gravity Bleed: Basically you let the fluid slowly drain at each corner by itself.
To do this: Connect a clear tubing to the bleed screw and other end in a bottle.
Now basically keeping the brake reservoir lid open and under watch, open the bleed screw about a 3/4 turn. Fluid will slowly start flowing out. You dont want the fluid to come out in a stream but in drops.
Keep topping the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir.
It will take you about 10-15 min at each corner for the fluid to go from dark to light color and the new fluid makes it way(Yes its slow).
I simplify this by using ATE superblue one yr and switching to prestone DOT 4 synthetic the next yr. The color change becomes obvious.
Once the color change is seen at the wheel, close the bleed screw and move to the next corner.
I find it super easy to do this especially when I dont have someone available for the pedal push method. Also since you are using gravity to push the fluid out, there are very low chances of air to get into the system.
To do this: Connect a clear tubing to the bleed screw and other end in a bottle.
Now basically keeping the brake reservoir lid open and under watch, open the bleed screw about a 3/4 turn. Fluid will slowly start flowing out. You dont want the fluid to come out in a stream but in drops.
Keep topping the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir.
It will take you about 10-15 min at each corner for the fluid to go from dark to light color and the new fluid makes it way(Yes its slow).
I simplify this by using ATE superblue one yr and switching to prestone DOT 4 synthetic the next yr. The color change becomes obvious.
Once the color change is seen at the wheel, close the bleed screw and move to the next corner.
I find it super easy to do this especially when I dont have someone available for the pedal push method. Also since you are using gravity to push the fluid out, there are very low chances of air to get into the system.
03-10-2011, 01:23 PM
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 87
Gravity Bleed: Basically you let the fluid slowly drain at each corner by itself.
To do this: Connect a clear tubing to the bleed screw and other end in a bottle.
Now basically keeping the brake reservoir lid open and under watch, open the bleed screw about a 3/4 turn. Fluid will slowly start flowing out. You dont want the fluid to come out in a stream but in drops.
Keep topping the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir.
It will take you about 10-15 min at each corner for the fluid to go from dark to light color and the new fluid makes it way(Yes its slow).
I simplify this by using ATE superblue one yr and switching to prestone DOT 4 synthetic the next yr. The color change becomes obvious.
Once the color change is seen at the wheel, close the bleed screw and move to the next corner.
I find it super easy to do this especially when I dont have someone available for the pedal push method. Also since you are using gravity to push the fluid out, there are very low chances of air to get into the system.
To do this: Connect a clear tubing to the bleed screw and other end in a bottle.
Now basically keeping the brake reservoir lid open and under watch, open the bleed screw about a 3/4 turn. Fluid will slowly start flowing out. You dont want the fluid to come out in a stream but in drops.
Keep topping the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir.
It will take you about 10-15 min at each corner for the fluid to go from dark to light color and the new fluid makes it way(Yes its slow).
I simplify this by using ATE superblue one yr and switching to prestone DOT 4 synthetic the next yr. The color change becomes obvious.
Once the color change is seen at the wheel, close the bleed screw and move to the next corner.
I find it super easy to do this especially when I dont have someone available for the pedal push method. Also since you are using gravity to push the fluid out, there are very low chances of air to get into the system.
03-10-2011, 01:27 PM
#17
Knowing what fluid was used in my car is more important than the magnitude of the job done.
There's a reason my car runs the way she does with the miles she has on her.
Preventive maintenance and quality fluids/parts and gentle/defensive driving practices go a long way!!
There's a reason my car runs the way she does with the miles she has on her.
Preventive maintenance and quality fluids/parts and gentle/defensive driving practices go a long way!!
03-12-2011, 03:22 AM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 87
Knowing what fluid was used in my car is more important than the magnitude of the job done.
There's a reason my car runs the way she does with the miles she has on her.
Preventive maintenance and quality fluids/parts and gentle/defensive driving practices go a long way!!
There's a reason my car runs the way she does with the miles she has on her.
Preventive maintenance and quality fluids/parts and gentle/defensive driving practices go a long way!!
You drive a 255HP car gently? I hope I never get stuck behind you on a back road.
Defensively is good - stops a lot of accidents from happening.
In any event - I'm not attacking you b/c I think you're right, I just don't have the time or inclination to do these "little" jobs myself. When it comes time to rehab the whole suspension, I'll tackle that job...
03-12-2011, 03:30 PM
#21
If you notice a brake performance issue that if fixed by replacing the brake fluid, you need to check as to why air is getting into your system. You would not be able to feel any difference if there was water in the system, which even if there was, would max out at maybe 6%
03-12-2011, 06:30 PM
#22
Congrats on getting to 200K. I can't think of anything off of the top of my head that you aren't doing, which is why you're at 200K. I wouldn't replace your trans fluid though if you're doing a drain and fill every 5 to 8.
03-14-2011, 06:44 AM
#23
If you notice a brake performance issue that if fixed by replacing the brake fluid, you need to check as to why air is getting into your system. You would not be able to feel any difference if there was water in the system, which even if there was, would max out at maybe 6%
I will be watching out for this as i do it the next time... i'm considering a new master cylinder anyways at 200K for PM... In the FL heat... you never know... the rubber hoses going behind each wheel might have a leak too...!
Good call man!
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