I have a 01 maxima and recently it just stopped working. I was driving and all of a sudden the car just cuts off.. I filled up the gas tank (preminum unleaded $3.80) and drove fine on the high way..

So when the car cuts off I start it back up then all the lights on the dash board comes up and cuts off..

If i keep pressin the gas, the car will stay on and drive but once i take it off the car shuts off.

Dropped the are at Nissan they want $3,500.00 they say its something wrong with the throttle, axle, ecu.. I dont remember the details because the price baffled me so.. if you guys ever heard of this problem and have suggestions let me know..

thanks
s.n i looked through the search and still needed to make my own post..

 

You need to be much more clear what the dealership is telling you is wrong if you want some input/insight as to what it could be. Noone here has had a chance to inspect the car, so we have to rely at least in part on what they found in order to speculate beyond their conclusion...

 

For such a long post, it tells us pretty much nothing. Is english your second language? I apologize if it is, but you need to cause that is just a sloppy mess of a OP.

 

DONT BASH ON HER FELLAS

...i was telling her to post up, mainly in the Maryland section to get someone to help her look at her car. She's pretty much saying that she has to keep her foot on the gas in order for the car to stay turned on. Once she takes her foot off the gas, then the car shuts off. I want to say its the fuel pressure regulator.

i was telling her that for $3500 she could get a 3.5 swap and drop it in for cheaper than that with the help of some of Marylands finest since they are more suited, known for doing most of their stuff (no hate on anywhere else, just something i've noted)

 

It sounds like a gambit by the dealership. Give her a repair estimate just below the value of the car. If she pays it: profit. If she buys a new car instead, then trades it in below fair market value: also profit.

Or it could be on the up-and-up. That's possible... we don't know what the dealership wants to do.

 

That's exactly it. Noone's bashing, just asking for the details of the estimate...

 

Just need more info, it's shooting in the dark at this point.

 

*problem is in bold*

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ssing-gas.html

Any CEL? MAF or IACV.

 

I agree on the MAFS guess.

Can we get a description, is it bogging, dying, etc. Also any idea what RPM you need to keep it at in order to keep it running? If it's over 2000 RPM I'd bet my butt on MAFS.

Also, when the car 'died suddenly' then you put gas in and it 'started'. Did you run out of gas??? And the problem has been there since that point?

 

Just a wild guess here but it could be the IACV. If that goes bad the car would have a hard time staying on if the RPM drops below 1500.

 

Im guessing a bad alternator since she mentioned the lights would cut off all of a sudden....

 

I told you get the dealer to do the diagnostic. With that it should narrow down what the item thats faulty is.

Personally i would say it sounds like a maf issue, or throttle body. But the dealership pring should narrow down all of the issues.

I have a new maf at my house. That is why i told you to follow up and let me know the issue. Your local.

 

aside from the maf, as i told you if it is throttle body (as someone posted similar issues recently) then we can get that at the same yard i took denver to to get his starter cheap.

 

See... random shots in the dark cause there's not enough info.

I think MAFS and IACV are the best guesses based on the OP though. But it's hard to base off the OP.

 

shooting in the dark..or driving with a blindfold on is seriously whats going on here...? If you really expect anyones help you are going to need to be more specific in whats giong on and what dealer/shop your getting your car serviced at..? if you expect anyone to be capable of helping you. Do you have any close friends that are mechanics that can look at the car like a personal favor or something? thank god I do :-D

 

I had the IACV go bad on my 95. The symptoms were nowhere like this. It mainly just caused the engine's idling speed to fluctuate between 400-1500 each time I would come to a stop after starting. I guess if it is happening after taking foot off gas it could be IACV but still nothing like what I experienced which never actually hurt the way the car ran it was more of an annoyance when stopped

 

i was mentioning to her maybe just cleaning the throttle body may solve the issue, and its quite possible the MAF as well, because i remember mine shutting/cutting out when my maf adapter broke on my SRI and caused issues of it remaining on. there are a good bit of cheap options to check before that outlandish dealership quote. i hate dealerships

 

Slim, all we want is what's ON the quote, she doesn't need to spend anything. If the dealer looked at it to quote repairs then that gives us more direction.

Your issue was caused by a big intake leak, hence, massive loss of vacuum.

That's why I asked what RPM she needs to keep it at to keep it running. if its 1500ish, it could be intake leak or something else,if its 2000+ then its not likely an intake issue causing the main problem.
I'm out until we get more info.

 

yea i know...ill get in contact with her so i can find out/get her to post up on here whats been quoted

 

UPDATE here is the receipt..

 

The price is justified for all those items.... from the dealer. Most of that can be done relatively cheap outside of the dealer. Pay a bit more than the going rate for someone who has Nissan experience, but don't get raked over the coals at the dealer for this work. It's not really a valid option for a car that is about a decade old unless you have a vast amount of expendable income.

OAN: Couldn't the dealer take the time to correct spelling and grammar? If you're going to charge thousands of dollars for repair work, you should at least give the appearance of professionalism.

 

yeah that's the ugliest quote I've ever seen, I would NEVER get them to do my work for just that reason.


Anyways, OP, it seems they are quoting to replace your ECU and Throttle Body/MAFS.

Try cleaning the MAFS with some CRC MAF Cleaner, if that does nothing, then swap the MAFS with a friends that you know is good (sounds like you have a few hook ups, I'm sure someone can put their MAFS in your car just to check it out.

Also, if you haven't done it, reset the ECU. You will likely need to do this when 'testing' the MAFS if you swap it also.

Then post back with results. This testing should cost you under $10

 

the car is already fixed, she's posting the receipt of the work they did. hate that she had to go that route, but its fixed so...it is what it is

 

see i just got the car back yesterday after 3 weeks.. paid 2994 or somethin like that.. yea its a lot of money but right now i dont have the money to pay a monthly note.. plus i love this car so it should be straight for a while..

 

@Bryan i know bro .. .. atleast im back to makin moves.. ppl were gettin on my nerves like crazy..

 

Oh. Hindsight is always 20/20. Next time.

 

so true..

 

Wait a second... You have an '01 and they still diagnosed both the ecu and the throttle body? Sketchy dealer.

 

no, just proves that they are incapable of a proper diagnosis...wth would both of those parts cause the issue?!

 

To me it sounds similar to what happened when my alternator died out. Car would drive fine and then all of a sudden one day my dash lights flickered off and then soon it just died unless i were to keep the clutch in and revving.

It could be compensating for the lack of a good alternator and shutting off in cabin electronics to conserve battery.

sketchy none the less and hope its really fixed

 

tru should i just replace the alternator too, to be on the save side?? my mechanic mentioned that might be the problem.. how much is it?

 

grab one from autozone for like 120ish...ppl may bash autozone parts but u cant beat a liftime warranty... if it goes bad take it back and get a new free one. ive been doin it for years

 

This is often the argument for AZ junk electronics. What good is a lifetime warranty if you're stuck out on the middle of a road somewhere? Also, not everyone has the skills and/or time to replace their alternator multiple times. You can spend a few more dollars for quality right? It all boils down to what your time and labor are worth to you.

Permatex or Meguiars Wax? Sure? Essential vehicle replacement parts? No, thank you.

 

if your car is fine right now, dont spend anymore money on it...let it go

 

aight ill wait it out..

 

I support this post.


Especially on the Maxi, that Alternator is a ***** to change, especially if you have A/C.

I'd cough up some good money so I never have to change it again.

 

Your opinion is dependent mostly upon money and age. At least in my case that's what I've seen. In my early 20s I was all about the AZ stuff. Late 20s, a little bit older and with more money now I am cool with buying the quality for a little more. I don't know when exactly I went to the either side of that issue but it just happened one day. I think it involves a certain cumulative thing, ie on my 95 autotragic max I used my "lifetime warranty" for the starter 5 times!!!! I think after 2 you should be allowed to bill them for labor