5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Time for a new engine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-19-2011 | 07:24 PM
  #1  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Time for a new engine

Hey guys. I knew this day was coming as I continued to try to bandaid the core issue. My engine is now blown. Oil puddle on the ground and oil on plugs still runs but barely moves and idle is horrible and it stalls a lot. Car is parked and awaiting my love and attention. Cattman headers had been ordered and im still awaiting them and they will meet the replacment engine at the same time.

I have read a lot on here especially in the bionic transplant thread and I am pretty sure I prefer a low millage 04 or 05 engine as a replacement. I would be willing to go with a low millage 02 03 if the price was right but they seem to cost a good amount more. I have read about it being much easier if I got an engine from a 6 speed mainly due to the cps and flywheel crap. I have read many different places about other model cars fitting in here but also heard horror stories about the cps and such. Would be nice to get one official list going of confirmed compatible engines listing no install mods needed or whatever needs to be done.

I started to look at junk yards in the area today but could not talk to most since they were closed. I found some engines ranging 600 to 1200 from 65000 miles to 120000 miles. I read I want the lower miles since this most likely means it was not run long under failing pre cats or the pre cats might have not failed at all. If anyone knows a reputible place to get an engine in the ct and new england area please let me know.

Most of all I was wondering if you guys could help compile a list of things I should replace while the engine is out. I have read and think it may be smart to do the rear main seal or should I leave this if the engine is low miles? I will be deff putting in new plugs and redoing the spacers on my intake mani as well as a new knock sensor and cts I already have.

Please let me know if there is anything im missing or if there is any words from the wise. I am also in the market for an engine hoist and possible an engine stand unless you guys think its not needed. Thanks in advance.
Old 03-19-2011 | 08:06 PM
  #2  
Ghost_54's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,364
From: Burlington, Ontario Canada
If I was to replace the engine as you are, I would most likely replace all the O2 sensor with new ones as well as the MAF sensor with a brand new one and possible also consider replacing the cam and crank position senors as these sensor tend to be the most critical ones where most of the engines issue start from.
Old 03-19-2011 | 08:15 PM
  #3  
quickhuh's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 414
From: East Lyme, CT
Ace text me Monday I'll make some calls to places we deal with for motors some of them do come with warranties also

You still have my number?
Old 03-19-2011 | 08:47 PM
  #4  
Scottwax's Avatar
That's Mr. Detail to you
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,014
From: Arlington, TX
Change the belts and hoses too.
Old 03-20-2011 | 04:47 AM
  #5  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by Ghost_54
If I was to replace the engine as you are, I would most likely replace all the O2 sensor with new ones as well as the MAF sensor with a brand new one and possible also consider replacing the cam and crank position senors as these sensor tend to be the most critical ones where most of the engines issue start from.

Thanks. Sounds like the safest way to go. I will start pricing things out and gathering.

Originally Posted by quickhuh
Ace text me Monday I'll make some calls to places we deal with for motors some of them do come with warranties also

You still have my number?
Deff do. Thank man. I appreciate it.

Originally Posted by Scottwax
Change the belts and hoses too.
Very valid point

as far as engines go- Please help me finish this list for compatible engines

2002 - 2004 or 5? maxima
2004 - ? quest
2002 - 2006 Altima 3.5?
2002 - 2004 i35
Murano?

would be nice to compile a definitive list.

Originally Posted by Ghost_54
If I was to replace the engine as you are, I would most likely replace all the O2 sensor with new ones as well as the MAF sensor with a brand new one and possible also consider replacing the cam and crank position senors as these sensor tend to be the most critical ones where most of the engines issue start from.
Should I just replace the 2 primary o2 sensors? I read that the secondaries only monitor catalyst function and have nothing to do with drivability. I am also getting cattman headers so there is a chance that I might be using a sim.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-21-2011 at 10:46 AM.
Old 03-20-2011 | 06:38 AM
  #6  
essential1's Avatar
My axles cry for mercy...
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1
From: Boynton Beach, FL
Any transverse mounted vq35 will work. Swap out the upper and lower oil pans and sensors. Swap out the upper IM If it has egr. Start the car and go.

/thread.
Old 03-20-2011 | 06:43 AM
  #7  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by essential1
Any transverse mounted vq35 will work. Swap out the upper and lower oil pans and sensors. Swap out the upper IM If it has egr. Start the car and go.

/thread.

I thought there were issues with newer maximas swapping in? so anything up to current year vq35de transverse mounted will work?
Old 03-20-2011 | 07:01 AM
  #8  
Rods03Max619's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 8,949
From: Diego,California
Originally Posted by essential1
Any transverse mounted vq35 will work. Swap out the upper and lower oil pans and sensors. Swap out the upper IM If it has egr. Start the car and go.

/thread.
Read the same thing, just don't know about the 09s and up but read a guy bolted up a 08 with no problem in 4th gen so im sure you should have a problem either and how many miles did you haveon the engine....
Old 03-20-2011 | 07:05 AM
  #9  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
145k with stock pre cats.

If this is the case I spy a 35k 2007 maxima engine for 900 if this is true I may have to grab it.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-21-2011 at 10:47 AM.
Old 03-20-2011 | 07:14 AM
  #10  
essential1's Avatar
My axles cry for mercy...
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1
From: Boynton Beach, FL
Stay away from the newer vq35 with the plastic IM to make things more simple.
Old 03-20-2011 | 08:02 AM
  #11  
KRRZ350's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
I am soooooooooo lucky my last engine job didn't turn into a nightmare.

It was out of an '07 quest with 38K on it, should be a straight motor right?


WRONG. Found bits of plastic in the oil pan, had to pull the covers & perform the secondary chain TSB.

I honestly think the reason it was in the junkyard was because they were just past warranty, motor was making crazy sounds, and they did insurance fraud one way or another. Either that or they got real lucky, but the guides were eaten through so bad it must have sounded like garbage.

Last edited by KRRZ350; 03-20-2011 at 08:06 AM.
Old 03-20-2011 | 05:10 PM
  #12  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by essential1
Stay away from the newer vq35 with the plastic IM to make things more simple.
I would be keeping my intake mani anyway so it should still be fine right? I mean ima put plugs in it at the same time anyway so the mani has to be off.

Are the coils the same on newer maximas? are they any better actually?

Originally Posted by KRRZ350
I am soooooooooo lucky my last engine job didn't turn into a nightmare.

It was out of an '07 quest with 38K on it, should be a straight motor right?


WRONG. Found bits of plastic in the oil pan, had to pull the covers & perform the secondary chain TSB.

I honestly think the reason it was in the junkyard was because they were just past warranty, motor was making crazy sounds, and they did insurance fraud one way or another. Either that or they got real lucky, but the guides were eaten through so bad it must have sounded like garbage.


That blows and honestly thats why I would love to see the engine in the car still to show some type of huge body damage to explain why its in the yard.

so any vq transverse up to brand new will go in? pending intake and upper oil pan?

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-21-2011 at 10:47 AM.
Old 03-20-2011 | 06:56 PM
  #13  
blue_magicSE's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 221
From: Toronto
I saw here in a previous thread all you need to swap over is your intake mani and knock sensor. Nothing about upper oil pan. Is this right or...
Old 03-20-2011 | 10:35 PM
  #14  
essential1's Avatar
My axles cry for mercy...
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1
From: Boynton Beach, FL
Originally Posted by NismoAce
I would be keeping my intake mani anyway so it should still be fine right? I mean ima put plugs in it at the same time anyway so the mani has to be off.

Are the coils the same on newer maximas? are they any better actually?
You can't swap your intake manifold with the plastic one on those motors.

A coil pack is a coil pack is a coil pack. As long as it fires, is the correct length, plugs to the harness and clears the manifold, you can use it.
Old 03-21-2011 | 10:38 AM
  #15  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by essential1
You can't swap your intake manifold with the plastic one on those motors.

A coil pack is a coil pack is a coil pack. As long as it fires, is the correct length, plugs to the harness and clears the manifold, you can use it.
Thanks

So far I am looking at a 75k engine out of a 04 6 speed for 950 (Thanks quickhuh) or a 60k engine out of an automatic for 550. I know people say it will be a pain to swap over the upper oil pan from my 6 speed onto the cheaper lower millage engine but is it really that bad? I mean I may have time since I will be waiting on my cattman headers to get here anyway. Any thoughts?

I did find an engine out of an auto with 15k on it for 1800. Too much for me to spend right now for someones said millage.

Please help me get a list together as well of what I need while doing the swap.
Please tell me to add or remove from the list. I dont have a lot of money so lets keep it to necessary for now with a few really should do while ur there. This is what I have so far.

es motor mount and sub frame bushings
copper spark plugs (one stage colder or stock?)
knock sensor (got a brand new one)
cattman headers (already had ordered and awaiting these)
new maf
2 new primary 02 sensors
crank pos sensor
new cam pos sensors
Thermostat
new belts
rear main seal
front crank seal

Last edited by NismoAce; 03-23-2011 at 10:44 AM.
Old 03-21-2011 | 03:34 PM
  #16  
Ghost_54's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,364
From: Burlington, Ontario Canada
Might want to also inspect the belts good time to put in some nice new ones ... and put in a new t-stat
Old 03-21-2011 | 05:20 PM
  #17  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by Ghost_54
Might want to also inspect the belts good time to put in some nice new ones ... and put in a new t-stat

added... thanks.. anything else im missing?

also reading up it says its recommended to mark with a marker or something the flywheel to the shaft so you can install it in the same position. I am swaping the flywheel over to a different motor that is auto. What should I do in that case? Also if I am not replacing the clutch and flywheel should any bearings or something be replaced?

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-30-2011 at 06:28 AM.
Old 03-22-2011 | 02:37 AM
  #18  
JonBlz's Avatar
a.k.a. STuNtMAN
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,382
From: Br00kLyN N.Y.
front & rear valve covers
Old 03-22-2011 | 02:30 PM
  #19  
blue_magicSE's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 221
From: Toronto
Exhaust gaskets??
Might be a good idea to order new ones if your doing headers
Old 03-22-2011 | 11:12 PM
  #20  
JonBlz's Avatar
a.k.a. STuNtMAN
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,382
From: Br00kLyN N.Y.
^^oem gaskets
Old 03-23-2011 | 03:37 AM
  #21  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by JonBlz
^^oem gaskets

Thanks, this is why I come to you guys. All of maxima.org heads are better than 1. I have nwp spacers so that covers the full intake for gaskets if I am correct. I ordered my headers with new oem gaskets. What other areas should I do? thermostat needs a gasket? I have new oem valve cover gaskets as well. What others do I need?
Old 03-23-2011 | 04:09 AM
  #22  
JonBlz's Avatar
a.k.a. STuNtMAN
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,382
From: Br00kLyN N.Y.
should get new valve covers they're pretty cheap 04 valve covers both less than 60 bucks each so you won't have to worry about any leaks in the future being that you changin the plugs might as well do everything so you won't have to worry about anything
Old 03-23-2011 | 04:55 AM
  #23  
SteveB123's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,023
From: Ottawa Ontario
Diagnose the existing engine.

So far, all I see is oil leaks, oily plugs and poor low end power/idle.

Have you done a leak down or compression test?

I'm not saying changing the engine won't fix things....but the existing engine might be repaired for FAR less than an engine swap.
Old 03-23-2011 | 04:58 AM
  #24  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by JonBlz
should get new valve covers they're pretty cheap 04 valve covers both less than 60 bucks each so you won't have to worry about any leaks in the future being that you changin the plugs might as well do everything so you won't have to worry about anything

The valve covers on my current engine are from an 04 brand new I put on like 6 months ago. I should be able to resuse these with new gaskets that I have correct?

Originally Posted by SteveB123
Diagnose the existing engine.

So far, all I see is oil leaks, oily plugs and poor low end power/idle.

Have you done a leak down or compression test?

I'm not saying changing the engine won't fix things....but the existing engine might be repaired for FAR less than an engine swap.

Thank you. I dont think there is much to diagnose. There is so much blow by its insane. clouds of blueish whitish smoke coming from exhaust and pcv lines. So much blow by it actually blew out my valve cover gasket. Either valves are shot or piston rings. either way I think its best to start fresh anyway since even before it blew I was experiencing some issues that I could not find the problem too.



Originally Posted by essential1
You can't swap your intake manifold with the plastic one on those motors.

A coil pack is a coil pack is a coil pack. As long as it fires, is the correct length, plugs to the harness and clears the manifold, you can use it.
Thanks

rear main seal
front crank seal

added to list

What is the weight of this engine loaded in typical junk yard condition? I am wondering how I will get this home before I get my engine hoist. Most likely will be renting a pickup from uhaul with a tire and some rope in the bed. Could 2 people lift this off the truck onto a hand truck and then to its destination?

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-30-2011 at 06:27 AM.
Old 03-24-2011 | 04:51 AM
  #25  
6spdmax's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 87
From: Indianapolis, IN
Is there a jdm version of the transverse VQ35? That's what I always had in mind, if I ever have to replace the engine in my 03. And I don't think mine has LSD, so I would probably be swapping both engine and tranny with something 04 or newer.
Old 03-25-2011 | 12:11 PM
  #26  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
paid for my 04 with 60k on it from an auto. So I have work ahead of me. Brian from Cattman says headers will be another 3 to 4 weeks estimate. So I will be without the max till then cuz it only makes sense to wait and drop in the block with the headers on.

I miss my car so much. I actually put putted it for about 500 ft today with smoke coming out just because I missed it. Engine will be here this week. Headers not for a few weeks so still waiting till then.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-30-2011 at 06:26 AM.
Old 03-28-2011 | 05:41 PM
  #27  
OHH NOES's Avatar
6spd Swapped
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 486
From: Long Island, NY
Definitely try to get one from a 6th gen to make sure you don't get a bad oil burner.
Old 03-29-2011 | 04:30 PM
  #28  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT








engine is here anybody need some parts that I already have on my engine espcially the manifolds from this 04 engine or the intake mani?

Any recommendations on pulling the engine from the top? Should I remove with Tranny or without? I have a 2 ton hoist and engine leveler.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-30-2011 at 06:28 AM.
Old 03-30-2011 | 10:05 AM
  #29  
02SE6MT's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 202
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by NismoAce
engine is here anybody need some parts that I already have on my engine espcially the manifolds from this 04 engine or the intake mani?

Any recommendations on pulling the engine from the top? Should I remove with Tranny or without? I have a 2 ton hoist and engine leveler.
I dropped my engine out the bottom with the tranny attatched. I think since 2 mounts are on the crossmember make coming out the bottom easiest. We thought about pulling it out the top but i dont think the tranny will clear very easily and there arent any designated lift points for the engine, but you may be able to find some.

Last edited by 02SE6MT; 03-30-2011 at 10:07 AM.
Old 03-30-2011 | 11:00 AM
  #30  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by 02SE6MT
I dropped my engine out the bottom with the tranny attatched. I think since 2 mounts are on the crossmember make coming out the bottom easiest. We thought about pulling it out the top but i dont think the tranny will clear very easily and there arent any designated lift points for the engine, but you may be able to find some.
Was this with a hoist and how high did u have to raise the car and how? Lift?
Old 03-30-2011 | 11:03 AM
  #31  
NmexMAX's Avatar
dot dot dot ...
iTrader: (22)
 
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 34,588
From: Santa Fe, NM
Originally Posted by NismoAce
Was this with a hoist and how high did u have to raise the car and how? Lift?
My assumption would be since he mentioned he didn't find any lifting points, he probably dropped it using a jack or 2, or some sort of lift (not hoist) supporting from the bottom. Harbor freight has some tranny jacks that can be used.

With high enough jack stands, it can and has been done.

Check both the All Motor and Garage/Tools section for some related information.
Old 03-30-2011 | 11:21 AM
  #32  
HotshotVQ35's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 930
From: LI, NY
when i pulled the motor outta my ser, we sat the engine and tranny on a dolly, and raised the car by putting bolts and chains on the side motor mount brackets, and raised the car with the engine hoist till there was enough room to slide the motor/tranny out.

Originally Posted by NismoAce
Was this with a hoist and how high did u have to raise the car and how? Lift?
Old 03-30-2011 | 01:34 PM
  #33  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by HotshotVQ35
when i pulled the motor outta my ser, we sat the engine and tranny on a dolly, and raised the car by putting bolts and chains on the side motor mount brackets, and raised the car with the engine hoist till there was enough room to slide the motor/tranny out.

makes sense. Was there any reason to worry about the rear end of the car or the muffler hitting the ground? Was this a wooden dolly? I need to be a resourceful as possible.

btw thanks to you and all who have been and will be helping me here. I have done 3 engine pulls and installs before but they were all in tiny tiny hondas so this is a bit different and will be the first I drop the engine instead of raise. This engine actually appears easier to remove and install compared to a honda due to little things like drive by wire cable shift linkage and other crap such as the cross member on the bottom.
Old 03-30-2011 | 01:43 PM
  #34  
JSutter's Avatar
I'm nutty for Nissans
iTrader: (46)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,378
From: Maine
There are too many issues with the timing chain guides and tensioners. I would replace all of them when the motor is out of the car. It may seem like a waste of money til you have to do it while the enigne is in the car. While you are in there youll need to replace a few gakets and O rings, may as well do the water pump too.
Old 03-30-2011 | 01:57 PM
  #35  
HotshotVQ35's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 930
From: LI, NY
never had a problem with the bumper or muffler hitting the ground, just have someone back there checking. we also did a swap my putting down plywood, and some old carpet on top, setting the motor on the carpet, and then just pulling the carpet out. lots of ways to do it, some more practical than the others!

oh, and yes the dolly was wood, those suckers are strong, people move fridges with those damn things!

Originally Posted by NismoAce
makes sense. Was there any reason to worry about the rear end of the car or the muffler hitting the ground? Was this a wooden dolly? I need to be a resourceful as possible.
.
Old 03-30-2011 | 02:18 PM
  #36  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by HotshotVQ35
never had a problem with the bumper or muffler hitting the ground, just have someone back there checking. we also did a swap my putting down plywood, and some old carpet on top, setting the motor on the carpet, and then just pulling the carpet out. lots of ways to do it, some more practical than the others!

oh, and yes the dolly was wood, those suckers are strong, people move fridges with those damn things!

lol thanks my confidence on this swap is up now. Still gotta wait on cattman headers. 3 weeks give or take.
Old 03-30-2011 | 02:27 PM
  #37  
NmexMAX's Avatar
dot dot dot ...
iTrader: (22)
 
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 34,588
From: Santa Fe, NM
In the meantime I think you've got plenty to do/purchase, etc while the engine is out.
Old 03-30-2011 | 02:31 PM
  #38  
NismoAce's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 689
From: New London CT
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
In the meantime I think you've got plenty to do/purchase, etc while the engine is out.
I sure do. All the wiring harness is detached from the old engine and fuel rail set asside intake manifold is off the car. considering sand blast and possibly paint or powder coat or polish. Should I do a port and polish is it even worth it without doing the ssim? I dont think I am willing to do ssim mod. I do already have nwp spacers and block plate.

I am also considering my flywheel and clutch options. I think the wait on the headers is helping so I can actually afford more.

I also will prob degrease the new engine and my tranny while its out. I dont want to get crazy and try to paint it and such. I am not going for a show car but would like it to look decent. So the engine bay will get a hand wash while its care as well.

also entertaining an under drive pully.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-30-2011 at 02:39 PM.
Old 04-06-2011 | 07:52 PM
  #39  
'02 Style's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 200
From: Murfreesboro, TN
Sadly, I am in the same boat. Cracked cylinder (290K miles). Would the engine from an 06 work in my 02 Max? It would be pretty sweet if so, cause the 06 engine would be around $400 less expensive with similar milage. Could any certified mechanic perform the 06 to 02 swap? Any insight is GREATLY appreciated! TIA!

Last edited by '02 Style; 04-06-2011 at 08:04 PM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CorollaULEV
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
30
08-09-2021 08:11 PM
Matt93SE
1st-3rd Generations Classifieds (1981-1994)
15
04-08-2018 09:23 AM
Hondarydr
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
4
09-08-2015 03:13 PM
MaximaDrvr
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
16
08-19-2015 08:20 PM



Quick Reply: Time for a new engine



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:00 PM.