5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

136k Mechanical Revival

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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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136k Mechanical Revival

I have gathered alot of info for a future "revival" and had a few questions through all of the research. First of heres whats happening.

Tune up
Work by Nissan Tech friend-
-oem belts (2)
-oem spark plugs (6)
-oem wires + distributor cap
-04' valve covers front and back (if needed it doesn't look like they are leaking but you truly only know once u get back there)
-pcv vavlve
-NWP Intake Manifold Spacers
-Timing advance 2 degrees to 17
-ECU reflash

Work by Me -
-ATF, PSF, and Antifreeze Flushes
-Fuel Cap (first step for a small evap leak)
-Fuel Fitler + Filter O Ring
-Oil Change + Filter
-In cabin air filter
-air filter


Few Questions
-I was under the impression you can do a ecu reflash with a consult-II . Is that correct? I know for the timing advance you need it. With the ecu reflash is there any instructions u think I should tell him? I think he should know what do to on that part. At this point it was just the advance timing he didnt exactly know.
-For the ATF I read about dropping the pan and cleaning the magnets here
http://forums.maxima.org/1066054-post2.html ... do you guys think I should go through all that or just do a typical drain/flush? The reason I ask I need to order all the parts tommorow and will order the parts needed.
My last flush was at the hayden 404 atc installed around 85k (+-50k)

-I am paying a nissan tech to do most of this at his personal garage. He has any ecu reader/consult-II needed, but He still didnt know exactly about the timing advance and I am printing out this threads page 2 for him (thanks josh)

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/336512-17-degree-timing-question-2.html
. That should be good it cant be too hard.

-I had a hard time finding the part numbers for oem wires + distributor cap any ideas anyone ?
I was using this tool to extract part numbers http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...002_1/type_26/

April 1st is when im dropping it off, I have to get the purchase order ready for the parts tommorow to allow shipping time.
With all that said I think im pretty close... any little tidbits im missing?
Thanks all.

ps I just completely revived my interior electronics (bose HU fix, driver side heated switch light, and acc control lights) as of now its all working and I am hearing all speakers ! fingers crossed.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by OP
-oem wires + distributor cap
We have coilpacks, no wires. Direct ignition.

IMO, no reason to do ECU reflash unless it's acting strange, i.e. hesitation etc.

Dropping the pan doesn't add much extra time at all, and it's more thorough if you do.

Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 23, 2011 at 10:37 AM.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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I didn't think the fuel filters were changeable, except for the in-tank sock...(?)
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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+1 on the oil change

seriously,good list..
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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yeah.. we don't have wires or a distributor, its only ignition coils connected to the connectors for each individual cylinder. I think the mechanic should know that.

Also, each of those ignition coils cost quite a bit if you're buying them brand new and oem. Did you get a quote on the prices? You might wanna compare to what DaveB can sell to you for. Might save you a hundred or so bucks.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
We have coilpacks, no wires. Direct ignition.

IMO, no reason to do ECU reflash unless it's acting strange, i.e. hesitation etc.

Dropping the pan doesn't add much extra time at all, and it's more thorough if you do.
-its definately acting really sluggish... higher rpm while cruising at highway/town speeds.
-takes a higher rpm than normal to switch gears (auto)
-i have been having a weird starting issue at colder start ups, randomly it will crank over fine but then imediately after the rpms will surge down to almost nothing and crawl back up to normal, and even sometimes surges so bad it completely stalls. (ive been suggested to check IAVC, and vaccum leaks)
-i would say hesistation could be something im experiencing its just not like it was compared to just a year ago .
I was also thinking with the spacers and ignition timing it would be a good thing to do especially after all these miles...but after all that if u still say no need I will take your advice.. so let me know....nmexmax........

Thanks for the insight on the coilpacks hahah ... no wonder i couldn't find them. doh.

Originally Posted by OnOiShNo0dl3Z
yeah.. we don't have wires or a distributor, its only ignition coils connected to the connectors for each individual cylinder. I think the mechanic should know that.

Also, each of those ignition coils cost quite a bit if you're buying them brand new and oem. Did you get a quote on the prices? You might wanna compare to what DaveB can sell to you for. Might save you a hundred or so bucks.
good to know thanks, and for now im not going to replace the coil packs untill the time comes and its an absolute must.

Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 23, 2011 at 04:13 PM.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
-its definately acting really sluggish... higher rpm while cruising at highway/town speeds.
-takes a higher rpm than normal to switch gears (auto)
-i have been having a weird starting issue at colder start ups, randomly it will crank over fine but then imediately after the rpms will surge down to almost nothing and crawl back up to normal, and even sometimes surges so bad it completely stalls. (ive been suggested to check IAVC, and vaccum leaks)
-i would say hesistation could be something im experiencing its just not like it was compared to just a year ago .

Do the reflash then. Seems like it might be merited.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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OP, I think that you should let the mechanic change out the fuel filter, (unless, of coarse, he believes your car has a distibutor cap, rotor and plug wires).
Have you read the write ups on fuel filter swap for the 5.5 Gen?
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:12 PM
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i would go back to your nissan tech guy..and have him look at it and do a once over again to make sure everythings alright.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
-i have been having a weird starting issue at colder start ups, randomly it will crank over fine but then imediately after the rpms will surge down to almost nothing and crawl back up to normal, and even sometimes surges so bad it completely stalls.
it's your throttle body
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mahanddeem
it's your throttle body
can you elaborate? i was under the impression not to clean those things as they are really sensitive on the 5.5 , What are u suggesting? clean it? replace it? have you gone through a similar cituation?
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Do the reflash then. Seems like it might be merited.
I will take your word, I would hold off on doing it to see how all the improvements will perform if I had easy access to my friends time, but I don't so I'm thinking just do it while everything else is being done.
Originally Posted by spock
OP, I think that you should let the mechanic change out the fuel filter, (unless, of coarse, he believes your car has a distibutor cap, rotor and plug wires).
Have you read the write ups on fuel filter swap for the 5.5 Gen?
Yes, I can change the fuel filter I have read the right ups, it certainly seems doable. And that cap&wires was me braintstorming an entire part list head to toe... just thinking to hard about it...
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
can you elaborate? i was under the impression not to clean those things as they are really sensitive on the 5.5 , What are u suggesting? clean it? replace it? have you gone through a similar cituation?
..
Similar situation ?

In my 2002 , no ... But my previous max 97 used to act like that when I bought it,I cleaned the TB which was nasty after more than 160K miles (seemed to be never cleaned before)

As far as the replacement , noway ... this part is probably 500$+ , and you find people saying it's 100$ from rockauto.com and that's non sense (they charge you 100$ for repairing your TB ) , so if I were you I would order new Nissan gasket for the TB and 4 new bolts (in case you strip the inside of the allen type bolt attaching the TB to the IM) and take it outside the car and spray it clean from the inside and outside .... Just never move the plate using fingers.. In my case , everything went fine ...BUT DO THIS THING AT YOUR OWN RISK.........You would probably get high idle after you put everything back and probably P0507 code (high idle code) if you're TB was never cleaned before... And I would say do that before the ECU reflash (which would most likely correct those problems if they arise)...but again , in my case I didn't have a single problem after TB cleaning , maybe I was lucky , so do it at your own risk...
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mahanddeem


..
You can find junkyard items for cheap. Also, i have cleaned mine 2x, and have yet to discover any long term idle problem.
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:39 AM
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yah on that note, im leaving the TB alone, if it aint broke don't fix it...
i feel the same about coil packs
I forgot the mention gas mileage has been reduced along with the sluggish feelings
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 07:22 AM
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404 - suspension overhaul not found
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