5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Struts!

Old Apr 12, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #41  
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I think that guy you peed on, Rochester and DJFreestyle, meant the forum suggests getting "OEM-spec" replacement struts--ie, Tockio Blues or KYB GR-2s, not literal Nissan-branded Tockio struts. That's how I interpreted it, at least.

This thread did answer a silly question I had, which was whether or not the Tockio Blues were what came with the car. (Answer: No.)

I'm glad you folk posted about the Monroes! I was just thinking about buying the "new" OESpectrum shocks they have out for 5th gens now, but couldn't really find any comparison to the GR-2s. This has swayed me to pick the GR-2s and mate them to H&R springs in the front.
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #42  
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I bought a set of Staggs from Ebay. So far they are doing a good job even tho they're made in China.
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 11:20 PM
  #43  
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I got illuminas on stock springs. Its a comfy ride when its on 1-2, but on 5 its much sportier. It's hard to describe since the spring feels soft but the strut feels stiffer. But its really not a bad combo.
Old Apr 16, 2011 | 09:17 PM
  #44  
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oms
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a33i30, How long have you been on that combo? I know illuminas are overkill for stock springs, but with the really bad condition of the roads here I don't wish to loose suspension travel. How do you find hard cornering body roll such as taking an off ramp with that setup vs stock?
Old May 21, 2011 | 12:27 PM
  #45  
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Sorry to bump a strut thread.......

I am going to buy struts soon. I currently have the blues with ~80k on them (lot of boston driving kicked the crap out them).

I liked the blues, but like many others I found the rears a little soft. It seems that the GR-2s are a little stiffer so I was thinking about using the blues in the front and the gr-2's in the rear.

Would there be any negative effects of using different struts in the front and rear? Should I be concerned about them not working well together?

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
Old May 21, 2011 | 02:25 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by vball_max
Sorry to bump a strut thread.......

I am going to buy struts soon. I currently have the blues with ~80k on them (lot of boston driving kicked the crap out them).

I liked the blues, but like many others I found the rears a little soft. It seems that the GR-2s are a little stiffer so I was thinking about using the blues in the front and the gr-2's in the rear.

Would there be any negative effects of using different struts in the front and rear? Should I be concerned about them not working well together?

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
They should be fine.
Old May 22, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #47  
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Overdue update: I replaced the LBJ on both sides and my problems are gone, the car is smooth again, no more "clunkin'" or whatever you wanna call it. So happy for now
Old Oct 13, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #48  
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Back then ^ life got in the way and i just did the LBJ and was fine for some time but now the car feels like instead of struts it has bars, running over minor pot holes feels really hard so finally have the time/money to replace struts and I am looking at:

-KYB GR2 all around or Tok blues in the front and GR2 in the rear for stiffness
-strut mounts (front and rear)

Thinking about control arm bushings but i have to look at the car first and how to change it (here at work i dont have much time and access to look online for how-to's)
Also thinking about sway bar bushings

One of the sway bar endlinks was replaced when LBJ were done because it broke, the other one is still there, not sure if i should do it, it felt tight.
Am I missing anything? I have some money but cant go crazy and do a whole suspension work
Old Oct 13, 2011 | 11:31 AM
  #49  
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Do the same struts all the way around.
Moog front mounts, not KYB.
No need for rear mounts.

If you do control arm bushings it's best to have them removed and get ES poly bushings pressed in. Unless you have access to a press a shop will have to do this. Ideally this should have been done with the balljoint was replaced since the job is nearly identical.

ES sway bar bushings are excellent.

Sway bar links - if they're tight, they're fine. If you replace them, go with Moog, and replace both at the same time. They're only about US$18 a piece.

Don't forget about OEM dustboots when you do the struts.

If you have some extra funds subframe collars are awesome.

Last edited by djfrestyl; Oct 13, 2011 at 11:34 AM.
Old Oct 17, 2011 | 06:18 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Do the same struts all the way around.
Moog front mounts, not KYB.
No need for rear mounts.
Really? no rears? good to know but how do i know if i need new ones? i could save the money, say for the ES shifter bushings

Originally Posted by djfrestyl
If you do control arm bushings it's best to have them removed and get ES poly bushings pressed in. Unless you have access to a press a shop will have to do this. Ideally this should have been done with the balljoint was replaced since the job is nearly identical.
I hear ya! but these are not a must, say as the strut mounts right? access to a press is kinda complicated and im planning on doing it over a weekend

Originally Posted by djfrestyl
ES sway bar bushings are excellent.
really thinking about these

Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Sway bar links - if they're tight, they're fine. If you replace them, go with Moog, and replace both at the same time. They're only about US$18 a piece.
OK one was replaced the other one not, so i will not "touch" them

Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Don't forget about OEM dustboots when you do the struts.

If you have some extra funds subframe collars are awesome.
Subframe collars?

Sorry for so many questions but im in the learning process here and could use as much help as i can get, please bear with me Any advise on where to get all these stuff (im talking about the non ES products obviously)
Old Oct 17, 2011 | 06:23 PM
  #51  
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Yep, no rears needed. I've installed on probably about 150 cars, and I've seen ONE bad rear mount.

Control arm bushings are a must if they're shot. If they're not, then they're not a must You'll know if they're bad.

ES sway bar bushings - go for em. Install is easy and they're like $19

Subframe collars:
http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...e-collars.html

As for sourcing everything, most parts (both ES and non-ES) from Amazon. OEM dustboots I get from Dave B at South Point Nissan in TX.

Lastly, if you have some extra funds, buy a spare tire cover from me
Old Oct 18, 2011 | 11:08 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Control arm bushings are a must if they're shot. If they're not, then they're not a must You'll know if they're bad.
mmm how would I know? just by looking? is it that obvious?
Old Oct 19, 2011 | 05:37 AM
  #53  
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Visually and a very noticeable clunk.
Old Oct 19, 2011 | 05:47 AM
  #54  
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well just like you I was in the same boat with blown front struts on my 2K se, I had no money back then to replace with the blues or oem so I decided to give those a try

http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/...Listing+Page:1

http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/...Listing+Page:2

http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/...Listing+Page:3

well honestly about 13,000miles latter now everything is just the way it is supposed to be, no leaks, no knocks, no rattles.... my assumption was to replace with cheap struts and then latter upgrade but honestly for just a daily driver I am completely satisfied...
Also last September when I was purchasing those the prices were lower I got all 4 for about $120 shipped
Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Visually and a very noticeable clunk.
I got the clunk when going over bumps and stuff but im hoping its the struts mounts, the clunk was very diminished when i replaced the LBJs but its still there, not to loud though...

Struts should be on the way, i have to make sure what kind of sway bar i have to order the ES sway bush, other than measuring is there a way to know if i have the 22mm or 23mm? what about the Moog sway bar bushings? they're half the price The car is with the wife now so i will measure later today

Last edited by silver5andahalf; Oct 19, 2011 at 07:24 AM.
Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:44 AM
  #56  
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Replace the mounts then see if the clunk is there.

No need to measure. If you're SE, you're 23mm. GLE/GXE is 22mm.

Moog bushings are beefier than OEM, but they're still made of rubber. Go with ES. they're like $18 or $22 or something (the price varies)
Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:45 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by silver5andahalf
I got the clunk when going over bumps and stuff but im hoping its the struts mounts, the clunk was very diminished when i replaced the LBJs but its still there, not to loud though...

Struts should be on the way, i have to make sure what kind of sway bar i have to order the ES sway bush, other than measuring is there a way to know if i have the 22mm or 23mm? what about the Moog sway bar bushings? they're half the price The car is with the wife now so i will measure later today
I'm pretty sure that the SE's are 23mm and the other models are 22mm.
Old Oct 19, 2011 | 08:26 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Replace the mounts then see if the clunk is there.

No need to measure. If you're SE, you're 23mm. GLE/GXE is 22mm.

Moog bushings are beefier than OEM, but they're still made of rubber. Go with ES. they're like $18 or $22 or something (the price varies)
Originally Posted by TallTom
I'm pretty sure that the SE's are 23mm and the other models are 22mm.
THANKS GUYS!! I'll go with the ES Sways then
Old Oct 20, 2011 | 08:09 AM
  #59  
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I had bumping noise (2003 Max SE, 95K) at various intervals that was diagnosed by Firestone as passenger sway bar links. I received a very high price for replacement of front struts and links so I did my own job. Purchased KYB-G2 struts, boots, mounts, sway bar links, and sway bar bushings for $575(struts $96 ea & $66 Rockauto, free delivery). The removed OEM struts looked like they were still in decent shape after I removed them. I am not sure if I would replace the mounts again if I had the choice but of course the original boots were in tatters. The new ride is a little stiff but corners like a champ. I am sure you will not go wrong with either the OEMs, KYB, or Blues just replace them and get the new ride feel again.
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 01:08 AM
  #60  
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Im running KYB GR-2's for like 5+ years and i have to say is that the ride is very stiff and trust me you going to feel every pohole in the road. It hits a lot. My springs are S-Tech if that matters.
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 03:33 PM
  #61  
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^^ Your terrible ride is because of the S-Tech springs, NOT the struts.
Old Feb 28, 2012 | 07:08 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Like any part prone to wear, (brakes, struts, tires, front-end), the replacement will feel like an "upgrade" because 9/10 times you're replacing something worn out. That's a difficult thing to keep in mind when making an assessment. I'm guilty of it too.

For me, Blues felt softer overall, but with a significantly better rebound control. For what I want out of a 4-door sport-sedan, that's perfect. [edit] For the price.
Trying to redo all around struts and springs in my i30 I like the sound of the Blues. probably going to get those now the question is i have done struts and springs in some other cars sisters and such i went with Monroe quick struts because they were easy to install and seemed appropriate for their driving styles unfortantly they are not offered for my i30 and i was really looking for something higher end should i replace the mounts and bearing and all of the extras when doing my struts my cars has 106 k on it and is in great shape plan on keeping it for a long time.

thanks for your time
Old Feb 29, 2012 | 06:42 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Jliner
Trying to redo all around struts and springs in my i30 I like the sound of the Blues. probably going to get those now the question is i have done struts and springs in some other cars sisters and such i went with Monroe quick struts because they were easy to install and seemed appropriate for their driving styles unfortantly they are not offered for my i30 and i was really looking for something higher end should i replace the mounts and bearing and all of the extras when doing my struts my cars has 106 k on it and is in great shape plan on keeping it for a long time.

thanks for your time
This is THE place for your question:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ion-thread.htm

It's a bit difficult to extract your question, but I think you're looking for a higher end strut suggestion? Blues are DEFINITELY better than Monroe's. KYB's are SLIGHTLY stiffer but in a nice controlled way and are great with OEM springs.

Other parts necessary are Moog front strut mounts and OEM dustboots for sure.

You're not too far away. Plenty of people make the drive from CT to NJ for me to do the install. Sending you a PM so we can discuss this.
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