2" engine and trans lift and axle balance.
#1
2" engine and trans lift and axle balance.
The purpose of me lifting the engine and trans is to more properly align my axle output shafts with the hub in order to relieve the CV joints of their vibrating. Also, the axles will be getting a balance job at the local drivshaft company.
I changed the lift to 1" to be sure to keep clearance with the hood.
My brainchild!!
Specs have been removed for Legal reasons
I changed the lift to 1" to be sure to keep clearance with the hood.
My brainchild!!
Specs have been removed for Legal reasons
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 05-05-2011 at 02:59 AM. Reason: details changed to 1"
#3
sure did, It's been lowered since the beginning of it's life...and I've exhausted every option to solve the vibrations from the CV axles.
A lot of effort, but will be well worth it in the long run
My sig pic is an old pic...she's lower now, and I still want to go lower, lol!
A lot of effort, but will be well worth it in the long run
My sig pic is an old pic...she's lower now, and I still want to go lower, lol!
#4
Correct me if i'm wrong but Wouldn't you not want to lower the engine ? Your goal is to get the axle shafts as flat horizontal as possible correct? I just can't picture in my head how the shafts sit once lowered
#5
nope....since the suspension is 'lowered', that means it sits 'higher' into the wheel well 'lifting' the hubs and lowering the center of gravity of the car...thus lifting the engine will align the axle output shaft and hub closer to stock specs.
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 03-28-2011 at 06:20 PM.
#7
anyone know the size of the exhaust piping that connects post front bank cat, and pre rear bank cat? If I cut and spread the stock piping with a gradual pipe spreader I could essentially weld the 3" piping tight to that, then finish the rest of the y-pipe, and exhaust I'm toying with a dump of the exhaust post resonator and just past the fuel tank...but I hate that rice burner sound :/
I'm trying to get an order together thanks!
I'm trying to get an order together thanks!
#13
^^Thanks bro! I was up till 2am last night drawing out the motor mounts on graph paper...I have 3 different designs to choose from so far ! So many great options. I drew one up for a 1" engine & trans lift to keep it under the Stillen FSTB, no need to cut open the hood and keep the stock or Cattman Y-pipe. I'll have and extra .75" peek up through the hood on my Maxima...I think it'll look rather sweet tho! Luckily I have the black 00VI IM!
Anyone know the Inside Diameter piping size of the stock y-pipe primaries...the section before the rear bank cat and after the front bank cat 2.5" or 2.25"
I can't slow down my brain on this....
Anyone know the Inside Diameter piping size of the stock y-pipe primaries...the section before the rear bank cat and after the front bank cat 2.5" or 2.25"
I can't slow down my brain on this....
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 03-29-2011 at 06:18 PM. Reason: spelling
#14
I've heard of this idea. just didnt think about it for us maximas and its a DAMN good idea! iduno about cutting the hood though hecks no to cutting the hood for me. but i'd like this done also. Theres a custom shop here that works on that kind of stuff. we'll see what they have to say. SUBSCRIBED
#15
Work is under way...going by the metal shop tomorrow, then to the exhaust shop to pick up some exhaust piping. I also purchased a pipe expander today, aaaaand I'm in contact with an engineering and manufacturing company....first off, lets get the prototypes made, and the current axles balanced to see if this even solves the problem. I hope to put this vibration crap to rest! This is my brainchild, and I hope to make you all proud!!
#16
it could work out for you too
I'm making several...I'll take car of the hood clearance so there is no need to cut it open.
I've heard of this idea. just didnt think about it for us maximas and its a DAMN good idea! iduno about cutting the hood though hecks no to cutting the hood for me. but i'd like this done also. Theres a custom shop here that works on that kind of stuff. we'll see what they have to say. SUBSCRIBED
#18
Work is under way...going by the metal shop tomorrow, then to the exhaust shop to pick up some exhaust piping. I also purchased a pipe expander today, aaaaand I'm in contact with an engineering and manufacturing company....first off, lets get the prototypes made, and the current axles balanced to see if this even solves the problem. I hope to put this vibration crap to rest! This is my brainchild, and I hope to make you all proud!!
#19
+1. im curious how it works out. My brain keeps wondering about raising that much weight (aka center of gravity). but i guess its only an inch and id take it over vibrations which may kill your axles/tranny any day.
#20
purchased all the metal I will be needing. It's time to measure, cut, measure many times more, then weld
while I'm under their she's needing an oil change, so why not
anyone know the best place to pick up the press in polyurethane motor mounts??
while I'm under their she's needing an oil change, so why not
anyone know the best place to pick up the press in polyurethane motor mounts??
#21
#22
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1114
#24
a few good finds here on the org ...check them out!
A32 lower control arms.
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...trol-arms.html
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...trol-arms.html
A32 lower control arms.
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...trol-arms.html
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...trol-arms.html
#26
Cutting the hood shouldn't be a big deal, it'll look just like a 2G eclipse with a little hump in the hood. Or you could just put in a hood scoop but I wouldn't recommend that, it might look a bit
#27
I'd figured that if I make a 2" lifting kit, that I'd cut really tight right around the plenum intake...and see if I like it like that for a while. If I'm not too hot about it, I'd fabricate a good size hood bump and weld it to the hood, or install a WRX hood scoop. so many ideas, a lot of work, and I need more time, lol!
...especially after reading the entire threads that I just posted links for ^^, and having new inspiration to make a custom crossmember now!
1. 1"-2" motor mount kits
2. full custom crossmember w/ engine & trans skid plates
3. tie rod flip kit?
4. lower control arms?
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 05-05-2011 at 03:05 AM.
#29
probably...but I'm not a fan of that look, really. Also, I don't like the fact that somebody can stick a metal wire under my hood and short out my ECU, or haters tossing trash under my hood. I get enough people hate'n on my truck and tossing trash in the bed of that.
#30
We do this with the Grand Prix's, just only using 1/2" spacers in total. 1" is alot and will cause more issues than its worth.
We also have heavy duty built axles...which I'm running
Oh and our wheel bearings are alot easier AND CHEAPER to replace.
FYI...you have 4 mounts to deal...not just 2.
We also have heavy duty built axles...which I'm running
Oh and our wheel bearings are alot easier AND CHEAPER to replace.
FYI...you have 4 mounts to deal...not just 2.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 04-02-2011 at 06:36 AM.
#31
We do this with the Grand Prix's, just only using 1/2" spacers in total. 1" is alot and will cause more issues than its worth.
We also have heavy duty built axles...which I'm running
Oh and our wheel bearings are alot easier AND CHEAPER to replace.
FYI...you have 4 mounts to deal...not just 2.
We also have heavy duty built axles...which I'm running
Oh and our wheel bearings are alot easier AND CHEAPER to replace.
FYI...you have 4 mounts to deal...not just 2.
~wheel bearings have been done
~I'd love to get my hands on some heavy duty axles!!...wait, your axles aren't for the maxima
~you can't just install a spacer on motor mounts with these FWD cars, they need brackets, and bushing relocation.
~what to you mean 4 months to deal?
#32
~wheel bearings have been done
~I'd love to get my hands on some heavy duty axles!!...wait, your axles aren't for the maxima
~you can't just install a spacer on motor mounts with these FWD cars, they need brackets, and bushing relocation.
~what to you mean 4 months to deal?
~I'd love to get my hands on some heavy duty axles!!...wait, your axles aren't for the maxima
~you can't just install a spacer on motor mounts with these FWD cars, they need brackets, and bushing relocation.
~what to you mean 4 months to deal?
OAN: I was thinking about how you're going to raise the tranny. I remember the clearance being very close when I changed my clutch. Are you going to cut the body?
#33
He said 'mounts'. I think he was referring to your illustration. It only lists two mounts. I know you're addressing all 4, but I don't think he knows.
OAN: I was thinking about how you're going to raise the tranny. I remember the clearance being very close when I changed my clutch. Are you going to cut the body?
OAN: I was thinking about how you're going to raise the tranny. I remember the clearance being very close when I changed my clutch. Are you going to cut the body?
it looks like I may need to Notch the body in 2 places actually...on the trans side, and just above the inner CV on the passenger side!
too bad NOOOOOO company out there makes a hood with a 4" cowl on the hood for the 2000-2003 maxima...even a 3" riser would be nice, ugh!
#34
i like this idea cause it will reduce stress on axles, help with negative camber wear and put an end to destroyed control bushings and ball joints. Wouldn't a kind of spacer under the mounts remedy our problems when dropped. Spacers are a option or custom higher built mounts
Last edited by altezzablazes; 04-04-2011 at 03:23 PM.
#35
i like this idea cause it will reduce stress on axles, help with negative camber wear and put an end to destroyed control bushings and ball joints. Wouldn't a kind of spacer under the mounts remedy our problems when dropped. Spacers are a option or custom higher built mounts
the lower front and rear mounts need AT LEAST a custom bracket for your desired lift. the trans and passenger mount need completely different mounts. I may be able to get away with a bracket on the passenger side, we'll see
I finished the mod below about 4 days ago, and it helped quite a bit, It deff needs the ES press in mounts to take this mod to he next level!
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...asher-mod.html
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 04-04-2011 at 04:09 PM.
#37
I'll get on the pix for everyone! PSYCH!!...until the prototypes have been proven helpfull, and the patent is pending, no pix for the sake of it being my idea ha, you'll all have to stay tuned as the results roll out.
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 05-05-2011 at 03:10 AM.
#38
when people say 'spacer' I think of shims and a longer bolt....in that case, NO!
the lower front and rear mounts need AT LEAST a custom bracket for your desired lift. the trans and passenger mount need completely different mounts. I may be able to get away with a bracket on the passenger side, we'll see
I finished the mod below about 4 days ago, and it helped quite a bit, It deff needs the ES press in mounts to take this mod to he next level!
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...asher-mod.html
the lower front and rear mounts need AT LEAST a custom bracket for your desired lift. the trans and passenger mount need completely different mounts. I may be able to get away with a bracket on the passenger side, we'll see
I finished the mod below about 4 days ago, and it helped quite a bit, It deff needs the ES press in mounts to take this mod to he next level!
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...asher-mod.html
The only way i've learned to less agitate the axles is the right diameter rims/tires sizes in correlation with drop hieght.
Last edited by altezzablazes; 04-05-2011 at 08:36 PM.
#39
This is a very innovated idea for our vehicles. With the right tools and ingenuity it will be done. So the cross member and control arms will remain in their same positions with the 2'' lift? If the control arms remain in the same positions they will be closer to a 45 degree angle. which means busted balljoints, bent control arms. That's the least of the worries. I'm not discredit your abilities just making sure you didn't over look anything.
The only way i've learned to less agitate the axles is the right diameter rims/tires sizes in correlation with drop hieght.
The only way i've learned to less agitate the axles is the right diameter rims/tires sizes in correlation with drop hieght.
"2 inch ENGINE lift", think I'll start with a 1" first....I'm not lifting my car back to stock, just the motor and trans, then dropping the outer ball joint of the lower control arm down to parallel with the level ground. Also want to flip the outer tie rods, the rack and pinion(steering unit) is not connected to the motor, it is connected to the subframe, thus not getting moved. My geometry works
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 05-05-2011 at 03:13 AM.
#40
Just took my S-techs off after having them on for about 50 miles. With the stock wheels and tire size, the axles were binding so bad it felt like the car was running on 2 cylinders. Sucks it's such a PITA just to lower the damn thing.