2" engine and trans lift and axle balance.
#42
I got my truck back on Registration and Insurance so I can drive it for the next week! The car will be getting the mounts pulled...then then ES Polyurethane installed, and a spare set of mounts modified for the lift
Going to replace the valve cover gaskets, and paint the rear cover red. I may pull the motor and trans to do a grip of new gaskets, and paint the entire engine and trans a nice red/black also!! These mounts better pay off, lol!!
Project starts on THURSDAY!!
Going to replace the valve cover gaskets, and paint the rear cover red. I may pull the motor and trans to do a grip of new gaskets, and paint the entire engine and trans a nice red/black also!! These mounts better pay off, lol!!
Project starts on THURSDAY!!
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 04-26-2011 at 09:39 PM.
#45
alot....at least OVER a 2" drop...i was tucking tire on my 17s w/ vibration issues..raised it back up..its not as bad..if i raise it up more it'd be it'd be gone..but then i wouldnt want coilovers...so they stay
#46
^^ yup! over 2" drop...I'm going to do my best to make two different kits one 1" engine lift kit, and one 2" engine lift kit, then test them both to see which helps the most.
also may flip the steering! and set up a jig for fab'n some lower control arms.<<---that's gonna be a toughy!
my truck gets 10mpgs!!!....so i'll want to work fast at this to get my 25mpgs back asap!
also may flip the steering! and set up a jig for fab'n some lower control arms.<<---that's gonna be a toughy!
my truck gets 10mpgs!!!....so i'll want to work fast at this to get my 25mpgs back asap!
#50
#54
ENERGY SUSPENSION has them...if you have an auto and don't mind getting rid of your electronically controlled motor mounts these will still fit. I disconnected the electronics a bit ago anyways, !
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1114
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1114
#55
Those mounts are NOT for the passenger side or the transmission mount. Those mounts are for the lower front, and lower rear torque mounts. TOTALLY worth it
#56
NOTICE that all my pix and measurements have been removed from the thread. If this Kit helps I'd like to get them into small production to start. Y'all can bant me all you like , but I decided to try this project first ....sooo I'm going to build my kits, run my tests, check all clearances, offer a couple different colors of metalic powder coating, get the a company logo engraved....then if it all checks out, i'd like to sell the kits under a new company name starting here on the org and become a sponsor of the site
I've got some great ideas for the 5th and 5.5 gen max's, and hope to be able to produce a high quality product and sell them.
Thanks for the support everyone! things are going GREAT!!!!!!!!!
#57
if that passenger side motor mount is cracked you need to replace it with a stock mount from your local autoshop, or from an online site.
#58
i've got soo many idea's I wish I had a team to help me get things started quicker! I want to start with the 5/5.5 gen, then move to the 7th gen Maxima and 350/370z/G35/G37. I also would like to get a NISSAN company truck from the NISSAN COMERCIAL VEHICLES line, and MOD the craaaap out of it! dreams and wishes for now
#59
I don't mean to thread hi jack - I'm actually following your progress -
Where online can I purchase the right side mount - I'm sure the ones energysuspension are selling are sturdy but that's more labor for the shop is what the impression I'm getting...
Where online can I purchase the right side mount - I'm sure the ones energysuspension are selling are sturdy but that's more labor for the shop is what the impression I'm getting...
#60
Look on Amazon and ebay you can pick up all 3 mounts in a set pretty cheap.If your going to do the ES mounts you neet to pick up a set of Manual motor mounts take the Rad and Firewall side ones cut out the rubber and press the ES bushings in there its really not that much work.There is no ES option for the Pass and trans side that i currently know of.
#61
^^ cutting out the rubber is not how it should be done, you need to get the rubber and the metal sleeve pressed out, then lube the ES mount with a tad of soapy water or WD40 and press in the mount. I've got pix that i'll upload
#62
here ya go! there are PLENTY on Ebay, and all different prices. the aluminum mounts usually cost more b/c of the casting and better quality of rubber in the mount.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BECK-...Q5fAccessories
#64
heading to junkyard hunt down by the Mexico border for some pix of the engine bay w/o a motor, and to grab a few parts to mock up a jig to be able to make these suckers even more perfectly!! Gonna be a loooonger day but I love it!
#66
http://sandiegopowdercoating.com/colors.html
Monday!!! all considering my welder stops acting like CRAP!!
I'm thinking a metallic ruby gloss red, hammered bronze, metalic gloss blue, black gloss, and gloss metalic silver.
Monday!!! all considering my welder stops acting like CRAP!!
I'm thinking a metallic ruby gloss red, hammered bronze, metalic gloss blue, black gloss, and gloss metalic silver.
#71
Do you have an estimated time for completion of this project since your not posting pics?
I personally dont see the problem with posting pics up by the way. Maxima owners are generally too cheap to go out and try to copy this design. But I respect your decision to not post progress pics, especially if there's a legal issue behind it. But for myself, I know that I would have more trust in a product if I see how its made/quality of products used. Especially something as important as motor mounts.
I personally dont see the problem with posting pics up by the way. Maxima owners are generally too cheap to go out and try to copy this design. But I respect your decision to not post progress pics, especially if there's a legal issue behind it. But for myself, I know that I would have more trust in a product if I see how its made/quality of products used. Especially something as important as motor mounts.
#75
#76
Well it just started getting nice over here weather wise so I only went low to the point. Of tucking about 2 weeks ago...what are some of the tells that I'm beginning to bind? Because I'm starting to wonder how low OP is if he's having problems to warrant this exstensive work...I'm not slammed but to me I'm pretty low
#77
Do you have an estimated time for completion of this project since your not posting pics?
I personally dont see the problem with posting pics up by the way. Maxima owners are generally too cheap to go out and try to copy this design. But I respect your decision to not post progress pics, especially if there's a legal issue behind it. But for myself, I know that I would have more trust in a product if I see how its made/quality of products used. Especially something as important as motor mounts.
I personally dont see the problem with posting pics up by the way. Maxima owners are generally too cheap to go out and try to copy this design. But I respect your decision to not post progress pics, especially if there's a legal issue behind it. But for myself, I know that I would have more trust in a product if I see how its made/quality of products used. Especially something as important as motor mounts.
You will trust the product when you finally see it, I promise you that. Once the project is finished, and the upgrade performs as I intend it to, and the possibility of not infringing on another patent have been taken care of...the pix will be posted. I never intended to keep it a secret for a long, only until I'm in the clear to share the design knowing that other fabricators cannot jip my design because of a pending patent...I've had it happen once before and learned. I'd like to possibly get a set CNC machined out of aluminum down the road with all pressed in poly inserts...but that's gonna COST me!!
pix will be posted asap
As for Murdadremedy...after only 2 weeks you probably won't notice it...but after a few months the vibrations will start during acceleration, then effect your motor mounts, and braking vibrations may occur. Keep a sensitive feel on your pedals and steering wheel.
my designs are simple, but effective...and a letter of inception has been filed so I'm covered there.
I'd like to work in a custom fab shop, but my legs/feet don't like that idea because of my degenerating leg & feet tendons. I would love to purchase a CAD program to make this all easier. If this does not fix the problem, then I'll have to move onto another idea. Projects take me a little longer b/c I get around slowly, and right now I'm only rock'n one eye thanks to my cutting wheel...but I still get things done.
I've gone through I think 3 sets of axles since I bought the car lowered(then dropped it more), new lower control arms(stock, yuck), hubs, several rotors, all motor mount replaced once, lower rear mount replaced twice, new tokico struts all around, custom coils w/ 3.2 drop(not slammed), new bump stops and boots, new isolator caps(for s**ts and giggles), new tie rods, new LMGT4's......basically the entire front suspension has been rebuilt less the rack and pinion and original sway bar. I also replaced most of the engine sensors, and all emission sensors thinking it was engine shake.
I boiled the problem down to being BAAAAD wheel hop...and the only culprit is that once a maxima is lowered...it seems to be inevitable that the CV's will evenually bind. I did the solid mount 'upgrade' for the crossmember and ES mounts...this has helped a lot, but I'm 99% sure that the rest of it is the CV's being so far out of stock specs. The new mounts will go in, and axles replaced again, then cross my fingers and run a few tests. Thank GOD that Nissan gave us enough engine bay space to re-align the CV's and keep our dropped Maxima's.
my Maxima, Penelope, has 191k...and the ONLY thing that bothers me is the shake, and a couple window switches rattle a tad. Call me OCD, but I like a tight car.
#78
Use Google SketchUp. Drawings can easily be transferred into a CNC program like Mastercam when you're at that point.
#80