1320 error, with odd issue (and yes Ive searched)
1320 error, with odd issue (and yes Ive searched)
So after buying this 2000, Everything ran fine for about 300 miles.(I only live a couple blocks from work, so those miles were from driving back and forth to Chicago) Ran butter smooth. Filled it up when I got it home, and within 10 miles the SEL came on with a 1320 (no secondary codes indicating a coil, and Ive checked it 3 separate times) and also I think its a 1706. The neutral switch in the 5-speed tranny.
The car feels normal running at all RPMs except between 1800 and 2000. At that point if the gas pedal isnt held just right the car starts to buck badly. If I let off the gas its fine, if I downshift and get the rpms above 2000 it goes away. Before pulling the codes, it felt to me more like a maf sensor being unplugged or a vacuum leak or something. Ive combed over the engine bay and everything looks fine. From what research Ive read on here, if it was the crank sensor it will shut off going down the road, and I can't say I would know what a misfire would feel like. Again like I said, I'm not getting any P03x errors, indicating a bad coil. Any thoughts? I'm really missing my 95. So many less issues.
The car feels normal running at all RPMs except between 1800 and 2000. At that point if the gas pedal isnt held just right the car starts to buck badly. If I let off the gas its fine, if I downshift and get the rpms above 2000 it goes away. Before pulling the codes, it felt to me more like a maf sensor being unplugged or a vacuum leak or something. Ive combed over the engine bay and everything looks fine. From what research Ive read on here, if it was the crank sensor it will shut off going down the road, and I can't say I would know what a misfire would feel like. Again like I said, I'm not getting any P03x errors, indicating a bad coil. Any thoughts? I'm really missing my 95. So many less issues.
had that issue for about 3000miles so far.... no coil codes, just the 1320
on a cold start the car will misfire for about 5-10 seconds.... then everything is back to normal???? like nothing ever happened???
someone must have a logical explanation about that?
on a cold start the car will misfire for about 5-10 seconds.... then everything is back to normal???? like nothing ever happened???
someone must have a logical explanation about that?
There is a TSB on this as well:
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB01-059.pdf
If it is your coils, common opinion on the best fix for this is to change em all. If cost is a concern, you can do it yourself following this write-up:
http://www.lehrner.com/david/sparkplug.doc
You can buy them from Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan in Austin, TX. He's a reliable OEM parts guy that many Maxima owners go to for parts and advice. Phone number is 1-888-254-6060.
BlackMaxima:
you said the coils and plugs have been replaced i would disconnect the battery to reset the engine code off the dash and see if it comes back on after driving. if it does i would inspect the harness for any broken wires.
The awesomeness of google.
I used P1320 as the search term
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB01-059.pdf
If it is your coils, common opinion on the best fix for this is to change em all. If cost is a concern, you can do it yourself following this write-up:
http://www.lehrner.com/david/sparkplug.doc
You can buy them from Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan in Austin, TX. He's a reliable OEM parts guy that many Maxima owners go to for parts and advice. Phone number is 1-888-254-6060.
BlackMaxima:
you said the coils and plugs have been replaced i would disconnect the battery to reset the engine code off the dash and see if it comes back on after driving. if it does i would inspect the harness for any broken wires.
The awesomeness of google.
I used P1320 as the search term
Last edited by Ghost_54; Mar 29, 2011 at 07:54 PM.
Well Ive been on the forum since 1998 and used to be one of the OT mods, so I know the power of the search. And I know what the code points to, its just frustrating that the only (possible) solution is to pony up a few hundred bucks to replace the coils on a car that this started doing the day after I bought it. (thats what you get for buying it "as-is" I guess.)
I was hoping someone has suffered something like this that could give me a clearer idea to try. Everything Ive found on the 1320 codes is hit or miss, vague, or no solution found. And to top it off it seems the input shaft bearing in the tranny is going, cause it sounds like a damn racecar gearbox.
I was hoping someone has suffered something like this that could give me a clearer idea to try. Everything Ive found on the 1320 codes is hit or miss, vague, or no solution found. And to top it off it seems the input shaft bearing in the tranny is going, cause it sounds like a damn racecar gearbox.
Well Ive been on the forum since 1998 and used to be one of the OT mods, so I know the power of the search. And I know what the code points to, its just frustrating that the only (possible) solution is to pony up a few hundred bucks to replace the coils on a car that this started doing the day after I bought it. (thats what you get for buying it "as-is" I guess.)
I was hoping someone has suffered something like this that could give me a clearer idea to try. Everything Ive found on the 1320 codes is hit or miss, vague, or no solution found. And to top it off it seems the input shaft bearing in the tranny is going, cause it sounds like a damn racecar gearbox.
I was hoping someone has suffered something like this that could give me a clearer idea to try. Everything Ive found on the 1320 codes is hit or miss, vague, or no solution found. And to top it off it seems the input shaft bearing in the tranny is going, cause it sounds like a damn racecar gearbox.
1. Shorted harness
2. Bad power transistor built into coil
3. Bad fuel injector
4. Bad crankshaft position sensor or circuit
I had a P1320 in my 4th gen after putting in a aftermarket coil pack to replace a bad OEM one. I bought the Hanshin branded one from Nissan and the code has since gone away. My suggestion is to pull all of the coil packs to see if they are OEM or not. OEM will be marked with Hanshin or Mitsubishi. Replace any aftermarket packs and see if it fixes your issue. Good luck.
Well Ive been on the forum since 1998 and used to be one of the OT mods, so I know the power of the search. And I know what the code points to, its just frustrating that the only (possible) solution is to pony up a few hundred bucks to replace the coils on a car that this started doing the day after I bought it. (thats what you get for buying it "as-is" I guess.)
I was hoping someone has suffered something like this that could give me a clearer idea to try. Everything Ive found on the 1320 codes is hit or miss, vague, or no solution found. And to top it off it seems the input shaft bearing in the tranny is going, cause it sounds like a damn racecar gearbox.
I was hoping someone has suffered something like this that could give me a clearer idea to try. Everything Ive found on the 1320 codes is hit or miss, vague, or no solution found. And to top it off it seems the input shaft bearing in the tranny is going, cause it sounds like a damn racecar gearbox.
The bucking at the lower RPM's would probably (like any other 1320 code) set off another code if it were related to the coils.
My idea would be to disconnect the primary O2 sensors and see if it does it. Is this a Cali-spec?
IBshouldastuckwiththeA32orgotan02+
Its true. But this was the only thing I could find. I'm looking into the harness. I made them replace the radiator when I bought it because the old one was cracked, and it was after that when I started having troubles. I also think its odd that both errors I have are for things that have the harness right by the radiator fan, which I found hadnt been screwed back onto the radiator when they fixed it. At one point it was leaning against the harnesses. I've been combing the FSM tracking everything down.
I think its a Cali Spec (damnit) but havent confirmed it yet. Its going on jackstands Saturday so I can get under there and really look at the sensor and Park\Neutral switch and make sure wires haven't been cut.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll look into all of it.
I cleared the SEL, and took it for a test drive, but its still bucking.
I think its a Cali Spec (damnit) but havent confirmed it yet. Its going on jackstands Saturday so I can get under there and really look at the sensor and Park\Neutral switch and make sure wires haven't been cut.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll look into all of it.
I cleared the SEL, and took it for a test drive, but its still bucking.
Last edited by Whitemax; Mar 30, 2011 at 11:57 AM.
I had a P1320 in my 4th gen after putting in a aftermarket coil pack to replace a bad OEM one. I bought the Hanshin branded one from Nissan and the code has since gone away. My suggestion is to pull all of the coil packs to see if they are OEM or not. OEM will be marked with Hanshin or Mitsubishi. Replace any aftermarket packs and see if it fixes your issue. Good luck.
I'm having the same issue with my car, I swapped out a coil for Duralast (never again) and the misfire and cylinder specific code is gone, but after I had it reset P1320 popped up. Think it would be worth a try to swap the Duralast for an OEM?
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