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Just went out and checked this- happy (and relieved) to report absolutely no sign of rust whatsoever on that rad support- in fact, it looks so good I wonder if it's already been replaced.
however, the entire splash guard is missing, so there's that i suppose.
Great news that you don't have rust on the lower rad support! Not sure what one can do to keep it that way. If your Maxima was a daily driver, just keep doing whatever they did with it or didn't do with it. For mine, it got this way after 15 yrs or so. So, I won't mind if it rusts in 15 yrs.
It cost me $1,000 to repair the upper and lower frame, along with the hood lock bracket. Nissan only sells them as a whole frame now. The part from the shop was $550 plus his labor and taxes. The same part from eBay could have been had for $375. However, I didn't have time to wait, or I could have purchased it from eBay (OEM Nissan part) and given to shop to work on.
A shop in Hempstead, NY called All Out Motorworks did the work. Took about 1.5 days from drop off to pick up. The shop is not real clean or modern, but he did the work and my car looks fine. I looked at three auto body shops in my area in Central NJ, and no one wanted to do it. They did give ballpark figure of $1,000, but didn't want to do it. Advice ranged from "drive it for a couple of years, and you'll have done well." to "that's not going to drop for another 5 yrs (I questioned this one)". Someone said "it's not structural" (then why is it welded???). Anyway, I found it odd people didn't want money to fix what I wanted fixed. The last guy dropped a hint, unintentionally, I think. He mentioned that once they start moving old parts around, and having to remove radiator and ac condenser, then o-rings need to be replaced, potentially rusted bolts may break and all other unpredictables. I think that's why they didn't want to deal with it. Anyway, my lower rad is fixed, and I'm happy. I bought car for $2,300, so with this $1,000, it's still a good buy, imo for $3,300. I'll wait till next summer to replace shocks and struts.
Picked up a 2002 Maxima last year with 105,000 miles on it for cheap. It had a check engine light on, but was only showing up for the downstream O2 sensors. Drove it for a while and now I am ready to roll it into a ditch and set it on fire. Overall been a good commuter vehicle, which is what I was looking for, just wish it still was so I wouldn't have to be driving my GMC 2500 HD everywhere!
New on here but ot to the import scene . Picked up an 01 se auto with 257k on it for $400 cause guy didnt want to wprk on changing alt (lazy i gues lol) , all leather but neglected some but no smoke or oil leaks , no rattles or knocks and has all timing set replaced and runs and drives great . Gonna stay n/a with it but go with a catback and cai and also have a set of 07q45 wheels to go on it . I have ran rotella 15w40 in all my race engines to my dailys with never a scatter or ill mannered happiing but this is my 1st vq30 ive had my hands on to play with and would like a lil input on viscosity on the oil and the tcs if there is a way to disable it as the dash switch does not work and finally the tach doesnt work so any help would be appreciated and im sorry if i am postig this in the wrong section , if i am lead me in the right area please .Im going to try and load a pic if my phone will allow , thanks in advance for any help and great to be a part of an overlooked community of cars !
Hello all, my name is Chop. I just landed a 2002 Maxima GLE a few months back, wanted to join the group on here and possibly get some useful info as I go through Maxima ownership.
I have already done a few things- when I first bought it it drove OK but idled high and there was a code readout (can't remember.) Took it to AutoZone to get the code read and it was for camshaft on bank 1 being overtimed. I had no idea what that meant or how to fix it but luckily AutoZone had a printout that showed the most likely causes and solutions for the problem, two of the possible solutions was a) to remove and clean the camshaft solenoid for the faulty cam and b) get an oil change since apparently the oil lubes and helps operate the solenoid. So I did both and voila no more check engine light! BUT, it still idled high, so I figured OK the throttle positioner was affected by the previous problem, so I looked up some how to videos on youtube, and one I found discussed resetting the TPS on the car by turning the ignition key on and off several times while pressing the accelerator pedal all in a particular order (don't quite remember.) Anyway I tried that and sure enough it reset the idle speed to right where it's supposed to be.
Other than that I also have replaced the front struts (rears are next) and the front engine mount (didn't think I could do that job but once again YouTube videos to the rescue!)
Hey guys, new member here. New to Maximas anyway, not so much nissans or VQ engines. I've had my 370Z for 3 years now, and had a 350Z for two years before that.
So I'm picking up a 2001 5-speed with 207k miles for $250. At that price, I'm sure you can deduce that it's going to need some work.
The CEL is on, the driver window isn't working (doesn't make any noise at all other than the actual switch moving), the AC fan isn't blowing, the struts/shocks are all pretty far gone, the rear tires are almost bald, and it's in desperate need of some detailing.
That's all pretty simple stuff (except for possibly the AC issue which I'm clueless about) so I figure with a little bit of work and money, it could make a pretty decent daily driver.
But on the bright side, once I put a new battery in it, the engine fired right up and ran smoothly after about a year of sitting.
With that in mind, I don't have any grand plans about engine swaps or forced induction in mind for the Maxima. At least not yet, lol.
After all the maintenance listed above, I do want to do a few small things to it. Life is too short to stay stock, after all.
-Lower it. I don't want to go too low and worry about scraping, and I'd like to keep at least reasonably comfortable ride quality. Debating springs vs coilovers.
-Exhaust. Don't want it too loud, don't want it too ricey, not really concerned with power gains. Just want to hear the exhaust a bit.
-HID headlights and fog lights, because visibility.
-Change the seats out. Either leather seats or some 350Z/370Z cloth seats (yes, I'm slightly obsessed with Z cars).
-Maybe some other little accent pieces like a front lip or something.
Basically, my 370Z is getting more and more track-oriented every time it goes up on a lift. So I want the Maxima to become the new daily driver that's quieter, cheaper and more comfortable to ride around in because I do a lot of driving. But yeah, that's about it. Looking forward to being a part of the Maxima community.
Last edited by Nick.Z34; 04-06-2019 at 07:26 PM.
Reason: Missing info
Hey, new to the forum. Also new to the Nissan and maxima family. Glad to say I’m excited for the future of my car!! Came up on it for $900 an 03 se 6speed. Needs work done, does smoke and burn oil but going to do the 2gen vq swap in near future. Body is pretty clean!
I just picked up this 2002 SE. It's pretty clean for having 138,500 miles. Need a lot of mechanical repairs though. I just replaced the front brakes and have a bunch of parts coming in. Looking forward to fixing it up and driving it.
Hey all, I’ve been lurking around for the past few years when I bought my 98 Maxim SE. Runs good but needs a little TLC to be up to par again.
Last month I bought a friends 02 Maxima SE. I’ll slowly give it the attention it needs as well! I just love these old cars haha. I’m from the DFW área and I’m glad to have found the forums.
I'm picking up a 2002 maxima gle (auto) on Wednesday. It has 136k miles on it. The guy said it needs a new compressor so it doesn't have ac. That will be my first fix. He said the CEL is on because of that (I hope he's right). If not, I'll have to find someplace to run the codes. Yes, I am a female, and I don't know a lot about cars, but I'm so willing to learn. Ive always been intrigued by doing my own work, but no one has ever simplified it enough for me lol. Maybe I'll get that chance here. Anyway, I just wanted to introduce myself and see if there were any recommendations for things to look out for. I'm buying the car for 2000$. I'll upload pics when I get it. I hope I'm not going to regret my purchase lol Any advice y'all have is definitely welcome!
I'm picking up a 2002 maxima gle (auto) on Wednesday. It has 136k miles on it. The guy said it nerds a new compressor so it doesn't have ac. That will be my first fix. He said the CEL is on because of that (I hope he's right). If not, I'll have to find someplace to run the codes. Yes, I am a female, and I don't know a lot about cars, but I'm so willing to learn. Ive always been intrigued by doing my own work, but no one has ever simplified it enough for me lol. Maybe I'll get that chance here. Anyway, I just wanted to introduce myself and see if there were any recommendations for things to look out for. I'm buying the car for 2000$. I'll upload pics when I get it. I hope I'm not going to regret my purchase lol Any advice y'all have is definitely welcome!
Buy an ODBC reader and check the codes before you buy (here
I'm picking up a 2002 maxima gle (auto) on Wednesday. It has 136k miles on it. The guy said it nerds a new compressor so it doesn't have ac. That will be my first fix. He said the CEL is on because of that (I hope he's right). If not, I'll have to find someplace to run the codes. Yes, I am a female, and I don't know a lot about cars, but I'm so willing to learn. Ive always been intrigued by doing my own work, but no one has ever simplified it enough for me lol. Maybe I'll get that chance here. Anyway, I just wanted to introduce myself and see if there were any recommendations for things to look out for. I'm buying the car for 2000$. I'll upload pics when I get it. I hope I'm not going to regret my purchase lol Any advice y'all have is definitely welcome!
Ac compressor shouldn't throw a code.
Check the lower radiator support. These are known to rust badly on these cars. You can see it by looking under the front bumper and looking down from the hood latch. If it's rusted, or work hasn't been done, may want to let this one go.
He originally wanted 3000+ for it and is selling for 2000 as a favor. I really hope he's trustworthy. He said that the codes thrown are for vacuum and that would be fixed when I got the ac fixed. He also said it would cost around 700 at the mechanic shop.
Cross your fingers for me lol. I'll also be checking for rust when I get out there tomorrow. Hopefully I look in the right places lol
He originally wanted 3000+ for it and is selling for 2000 as a favor. I really hope he's trustworthy. He said that the codes thrown are for vacuum and that would be fixed when I got the ac fixed. He also said it would cost around 700 at the mechanic shop.
Cross your fingers for me lol. I'll also be checking for rust when I get out there tomorrow. Hopefully I look in the right places lol
It seems you want to believe this guy who does not appear trustworthy (see below).
You should suspect/expect at least the following problems:
Bad Pre-cats. At this age, the pre-cats on most of our cars are bad (clogged). A dealer will replace them for $2000-2500. There are other solutions (removing, gutting, etc.), but these are illegal in states such as NY or CA. What state are you in?
Oil Leaks. The 3.5 L engine is notorious for its oil leaks. Hopefully, it's just the valve cover. Still, you should plan at least $500 to have this fixed.
Radiator Support. If the car was driven in the rust belt, it's very likely that the radiator support is rotten (unless it was recently replaced). There are many threads discussing this - just search.
Find out what the outstanding codes are. Whatever they are, they will not be fixed by replacing/fixing the AC. Also, be aware that with the CEL light on, you won't pass the (bi)annual inspection in many states!
However, 136K miles is not bad provided the car was well maintained. So, if you pay $1k for the car, and spend $3k to have it fixed, you may be able to drive the car for the next 5 years or so.
Originally Posted by pastaben
Ac compressor shouldn't throw a code.
^^^^^^ +1 !
Yes, bad AC compressor will NOT throw a code !
So, he is either lying or he doesn't know what he is talking about ..... .
It seems you want to believe this guy who does not appear trustworthy (see below).
You should suspect/expect at least the following problems:
Bad Pre-cats. At this age, the pre-cats on most of our cars are bad (clogged). A dealer will replace them for $2000-2500. There are other solutions (removing, gutting, etc.), but these are illegal in states such as NY or CA. What state are you in?
Oil Leaks. The 3.5 L engine is notorious for its oil leaks. Hopefully, it's just the valve cover. Still, you should plan at least $500 to have this fixed.
Radiator Support. If the car was driven in the rust belt, it's very likely that the radiator support is rotten (unless it was recently replaced). There are many threads discussing this - just search.
Find out what the outstanding codes are. Whatever they are, they will not be fixed by replacing/fixing the AC. Also, be aware that with the CEL light on, you won't pass the (bi)annual inspection in many states!
However, 136K miles is not bad provided the car was well maintained. So, if you pay $1k for the car, and spend $3k to have it fixed, you may be able to drive the car for the next 5 years or so.
^^^^^^ +1 !
Yes, bad AC compressor will NOT throw a code !
So, he is either lying or he doesn't know what he is talking about ..... .
OK. I picked up the car. It was garage kept most of its life, and the guy I bought it from was the original owner. There isn't any rust on the radiator support. It had a new radiator installed about 3 years ago. Correct mileage is 124k. The inside is pretty immaculate for as old as it is. No cracks or rips in any of the leather. He regularly had it serviced at Nissan and has all of the paperwork. I took it to auto zone and had them scan the codes for me. Also, I live on the border of Louisiana/Mississippi. We don't have to do smog checks in Mississippi. There weren't any visible oil spots anywhere, or any oil build up that I could see.
OK. I picked up the car. It was garage kept most of its life, and the guy I bought it from was the original owner. There isn't any rust on the radiator support. It had a new radiator installed about 3 years ago. Correct mileage is 124k. The inside is pretty immaculate for as old as it is. No cracks or rips in any of the leather. He regularly had it serviced at Nissan and has all of the paperwork. I took it to auto zone and had them scan the codes for me. Also, I live on the border of Louisiana/Mississippi. We don't have to do smog checks in Mississippi. There weren't any visible oil spots anywhere, or any oil build up that I could see.
OK, it's beginning to look like you made a good purchase.
124k miles is nothing for these cars, you should be able to drive yours for quite a few years.
Re. your P1800: Check for cracked, damaged or disconnected vacuum hoses at & around the VIAS valve (driver side, up front, close to the TB) before replacing it. Also, for loose connectors, etc.
Re. your P0445, P1448: You may need a new valve, or perhaps the entire cannister asembly. If so, you can get it here https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+canister,5180 , but even better, try a junkyard. There are many threads on the subject, just search.
Hi ...Just purchased a 2002 SE 6 speed. 103,540 miles on it. Silver with Tan Leather ....I've had a 92 and 96 manual trans cars. Looking fwd to reading and meeting the members here.
hi , new member here. my ride is an aussie A33 october 99 build it currently has 332,000 km on the clock and still going reasonably good except for a transmission issue which i will post a question about. it is a base model maxima S, silver in colour with grey trim. i have owned this for about 11 years without too much drama with any problems. i bought for $5,500 it was a bit rough around the edges but has been a fairly reliable car most of the time.
OK, it's beginning to look like you made a good purchase.
124k miles is nothing for these cars, you should be able to drive yours for quite a few years.
Re. your P1800: Check for cracked, damaged or disconnected vacuum hoses at & around the VIAS valve (driver side, up front, close to the TB) before replacing it. Also, for loose connectors, etc.
Re. your P0445, P1448: You may need a new valve, or perhaps the entire cannister asembly. If so, you can get it here https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+canister,5180 , but even better, try a junkyard. There are many threads on the subject, just search.
Sorry for not responding earlier. I didn't see the notification. Thank you for insight so far. I've noticed that every so often there's a little shudder. Would that be a MAF sensor problem? I really don't know much about cars and am trying to learn. Forgive me if I'm asking in the wrong place, or simply asking stupid questions.
I’m confident this previous owner was meticulous with his paperwork. Had all paperwork on everything done to the car. Super clean inside and out. Happy with my purchase. Just wanted to share and see if anyone is still out there 😂 Let me know your thoughts as well. 127K on the dash.
Very Nice, Clean too! I always wanted that color but could never find it with the option I wanted. I still have my 02 with 140K miles and just picked up another in September to do a motor swap.
I have 228,000+ original miles on my 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE. This is a Palmdale, California Maxima and came to Florida in 2001.
Did the Engine Rear main seal, lowered the Transmission and replaced all seals at the Transmission since it was down on the ground.
Replaced Lower Control Arms and Lateral Links plus Front Struts.
Doesn't leak anywhere!
Last edited by guapoman2000; 02-24-2021 at 09:12 AM.
Yeah, the engine has 183K but it had an upper oil pan leak (leaked into trans as well) and needed motor mounts. I figured if I'm going to go through all that trouble I might as well add 50 extra horses with a 2020 Max Engine.
[QUOTE=keepitclean;7928937]This thread is for new owners who have just purchased their 5th or 5.5 gen.
For a couple years I was building a Mustang but it got impounded 6 times, at that point I debated if the 00' Mustang was worth it since I was spending more money in fines and impound fee's then I was ever getting out of it. Last year A friend and I were talking about it and he Suggested "Yo you should just get a Max bro" because he had one. I shopped Facebook Market Place a couple of days you know the place where people think their 170k mile 20 year old cars are still worth 5 grand. With absolutely No Knowledge all I knew was my friend had 2000 Model SE and he was always raving about it! I found it listed for 600 dollars. I went and Picked up my Brand New (to me) 2002 Nissan Maxima GLE 186,xxx VQ35DE with the only reason I buy any car a Manual Transmission and a 6 speed at that. I offered 400 dollars and the lady couldn't be happier about getting her Husbands Rusting play toy out of their drive way! It was having brake problems and they recommend a tow but I drove it 2 hours home and replaced the Calipers and its been smooth sailing... I tracked the Original Owner down he told me he Cammed it put new rod connectors in added the unorthodox racing pulley before he sold it to the person I bought it fron BUT WHO FRACKING KNOWS lmfao so far ive put a Stillen Racing Strut bar, Stillen High Flow Air Intake, Gramlight Cr57 18x8.5, NWP Spacers, and I'm Currently in the middle of a OBX Header with Down pipe project just getting the old rusty headers, and Cats in taking my time. Day I Got it Day One Rattle Canned and New Shoes Gramlight cr57 Went and tore up Cobalt Boats parking lot to find a good rpm for launching
My name is Matt. I was lucky enough to take ownership of a 2004 Maxima from my elderly parents who only put 68,000 miles on the car since new. It's mint!
My son just turned 16 and I have given him the car. He loves it and takes great care of it, which make me proud. He fully understands what a unique deal he has.
I am here because we are having an issue with the stereo, and hoped I might find some information. I will find an appropriate thread, but if anyone has specific insight regarding the stereo in this vehicle, I would love to hear from you directly.
I just bought a 2002 Maxima SE with 6 speed manual transmission for $3K with 137,000 miles and hail damage. I will have all told, about USD $11K total invested in it. I spend MXN 33K labor to get it painted red and fix the hail damage. I also spent USD $580 on new AC parts plus MXN 4000 labor. It's got a new windshield, struts, brakes, Michelin tires, new battery, Exedy clutch kit. Plus I spent USD $1400 to get it to pass emissions and fix all oil leaks. 20 MXN = 1 USD.
Helllllllllllllllllllllllllo to you all....
Been out of a Maxima since like 2013 and missed it everyday since...
I picked up a 2006 Altima 3.5 six months ago and it relit the flame....
I've been passively searching since I got the Altima....
Welp! I Can't sleep because I'm picking this beauty up in like 12 hours!
What I know:
2003 SE 6MT HLSD with 155k miles
Meridian package
Factory navigation
Black leather
well-maintained by dealers....
"emissions serviced" @ 139k
new axle(s) and wheel bearing(s) @ 144k
Nothing else on the CarFax besides routine maintenance!!
It used to be rougher. This is a month or 3 of pissing off my gf going into the shop to get **** done. Stereos only half done. And I'm a bodyman not a painter so next year me and the painter are gonna trade work. It turned out matte not shiny and I got a couple runs. All worl done by me so i cant complain. Its my car. Im a bodyman. Did the work myself. This was a real ****box. I now deem it just a box. Dis thw wheels and lights paint myself. I screwed up the green so its matte. Tacoma hood scoop because free parts are sweet. Building my sound sytem now. Half done. Thats it.
Look dope man congrats, what else have you done to it since your last post? I will post my build soon, I bought a friends Silver 2001 Maxima 2 months ago for $800 and so far have put in about another $600 in parts and its running nice!.
I saw grass growing over this thing while I was remodeling a house. I asked the homeowner about it and they said that a little old lady had it and the family unplugged the battery a couple years ago to keep her off the road because she was driving like a savage. I offered them $800 and to my surprise they took it. It has 130k miles on it, cranked right up after at least two years of sitting there. I had to put a brake light switch on it and I replaced the wheels and tires with some 17” off an Altima that I bought used as well. I put a grill on it from OfferUp and a sound system in it. In my opinion this was the best deal since the Louisiana Purchase. Hello everyone, I LOVE THIS CAR.
Bought this 5th gen Maxima last August and heres what I have done so far, 235k miles but smooth idles and runs great. Next up is front headlights yellow led fog light and mesh grill.
I saw this checklist in an earlier post and copied it to this one:
There are plenty of things that start wearing out or breaking on these cars at about 150K to 200K miles. Here is a laundry list I can think of off the top of my head.
Radiator (clogging) - NEED to replace
Transmission (I'm assuming you have an auto because it looks like GLE model). If you have manual then transmission is fine until clutch goes out (disregard). - Its Auto need to check it out
Rear calipers (potential for freezing)- replaced back rotors and brakes and the calipers looked good. might replace the hoses next time.
Front brake rotors (warping) - replaced with new rotors and pads - one of the calipers looks like its smaller. might replace the hoses next time.
Suspension components...end links, LCA's, etc. -All done except driver side inner tie rod, (was still good) and ball joints.
Motor mounts (if you have an auto, specifically look up the issue with the IACV!) You'll see why the IACV relates to motor mounts on an auto transmission. I need to research but it knocks loud when I accelerate quickly and it shifts to 2nd gear
Pre-cats (wear out and you'll see a P0420 or P0430 engine code) - none yet
O2 sensors - Done cause I started getting codes - replaced all 4 the one with the long cable ( left rear ) is hard to find online suggest just paying more at auto parts store to ensure correct fit.
Ignition coil packs - bought the $45 6pack on ebay and they are fine Done also did plugs using NGK V-power for now
Alternator - coming soon this one looks suspect and doesn't charge to well
Starter - need to do
MAF - done used a $15 one from ebay no issues yet 3 months in, but down the line may replace with a better one.
Power Valve (you may wonder what this is...you'll notice a definite loss of power at 4K and above if this goes out) - Where is this located? need to search threads...
Replaced stock CD player/radio with double DIN JVC Media player from 2014. It sounds great but Bluetooth doesn't always auto connect so might replace it later with a Pioneer newer model. Dash light behind left AC controls is dead. Rear speakers upgrade- had one dead and one ancient clarion 2-way speaker, replaced with Kenwood Roadster 2 ways. Front speakers were upgraded about 10 yrs ago, were old Kenwood 2-way, upgraded to Pioneer 3-ways and the tweeters sound great! Replaced coolant reservoir tank, coils / plugs and Valve cover gaskets. Replaced MAF ( had error code) with ebay $15 new MAF and works great. Code is cleared and hasn't come back.
New front strut assembly passenger side new lower control arm and tie rod ends installed.
Center console plastic also broke, I wonder if anyone is 3d printing these as the replacements are about $100 and I would rather buy new headlamps for that price 2/27/2024 Found replacement center AC vent for $40 from a parts store in UT. Plastic feels good and no cracks. Also installed radio trim. New $8 radiator bushings from eBay. Super Bowl night ABS light comes on, check wheel cap in the morning and this happend. Glad my wheel didnt fly off the night before! 2/27/2024 Drivers side CV Axle assembly, strut/coil assembly, outer tie rod, LCA, and sway bar installed. Found out I need a pin and wheel cap.
Rear driver side has 2 broken wheel bolts need to replace next week when I do the alignment since I got new front suspension done. Quote for both is $140.
Probably 1K spent now 6 months in on parts and labor and totally worth it IMO.
Last edited by jmoral210; 02-27-2024 at 05:05 PM.
Reason: new pics
I just bought a 2002 Maxima SE with 6 speed manual transmission for $3K with 137,000 miles and hail damage. I will have all told, about USD $11K total invested in it. I spend MXN 33K labor to get it painted red and fix the hail damage. I also spent USD $580 on new AC parts plus MXN 4000 labor. It's got a new windshield, struts, brakes, Michelin tires, new battery, Exedy clutch kit. Plus I spent USD $1400 to get it to pass emissions and fix all oil leaks. 20 MXN = 1 USD.
thats cool, do you have any pics? I am in San Antonio and the Spanish speaking mechanics in the hood are alot better priced and willing to negotiate. I work on computers and printers and I barter work with my friend that owns a tire shop and has 2 mechanics on site.
Last edited by jmoral210; 02-08-2024 at 10:06 PM.
Reason: fix reply
I saw grass growing over this thing while I was remodeling a house. I asked the homeowner about it and they said that a little old lady had it and the family unplugged the battery a couple years ago to keep her off the road because she was driving like a savage. I offered them $800 and to my surprise they took it. It has 130k miles on it, cranked right up after at least two years of sitting there. I had to put a brake light switch on it and I replaced the wheels and tires with some 17” off an Altima that I bought used as well. I put a grill on it from OfferUp and a sound system in it. In my opinion this was the best deal since the Louisiana Purchase. Hello everyone, I LOVE THIS CAR.
Thats a great price! I paid $800 for mine also but it has 235K miles on it. I bought a Bluetooth ODB2 reader online for $15 and its really helped me a lot, I have a phone app called car scanner that reads the info and can check and clear the CEL.
Just bought a 2001 20th anniversary special edition
I had the car a few weeks I love it! I have been having trouble with the iacv and to my understanding it is very common but I can’t seem to find another electronic issue that may have caused it.
I don’t think this is where to ask for help so , back to what I think it is for
in the future I plan on putting on some better wheels just going to get lowering springs a cat back exhaust maybe an aftermarket ecu if that would be a better solution than fixing the stock ecu
12-03-2018, 07:11 AM
