Monkeyking

Having problems with power surging motor bucks hard ..I have had it two months never worked on newer cars but I put front three plugs and coils now I got to do back ones I got 105000 on car , surges started after I parked it a month to work got home and it started, I'm pulling on a chock idler thing a ma figgy to I also replaced the air flow c

marco-polo

Hey everyone, just bought an 03 se 6speed 177k runs but motor burns oil so will be doing 2gen VQ swap in near future. So my main concerns for doing work to the car is going to be replacing some suspension, brand new tires and brake pads possibly rotors as well of course alignment after work is completed. And getting it lowered.


What is a good replacement for lower control arms? OEM? Heard MOOG is good.

Trying to stay stock on wheels but would like to lower at min 1” maybe 1.5” and having great rubber for the set up. What has worked best for lowering cars?

And as far as pads, would like to go oem but I know there some good ones out there.

Any and all advise and input is appreciated as I’m new to not only the site but Nissan and Maximas especially.

Monkeyking

[QUOTE=marco-polo;9203202]Hey everyone, just bought an 03 se 6speed 177k runs but motor burns oil so will be doing 2gen VQ swap in near future. So my main concerns for doing work to the car is going to be replacing some suspension, brand new tires and brake pads possibly rotors as well of course alignment after work is completed. And getting it lowered.


What is a good replacement for lower control arms? OEM? Heard MOOG is good.

Trying to stay stock on wheels but would like to lower at min 1” maybe 1.5” and having great rubber for the set up. What has worked best for lowering cars?

And as far as pads, would like to go oem but I know there some good ones out there.

Love the car and the pu got to change the back three plugs, and have a surge problem , but can't wait to hit the highway. If I get it fixed .looks just like yours .best riding car other then a Lincoln lol, but anyway was just wondering why lowering it . I've seen a few threads about others doing it ,but dont see the use.. anyone ever had a surging problem ..what caused it... hope ya love yours like I do mine. Good luck

Monkeyking

I got a 2003 maxima that surges at 2300 rpms hard what could this be no engine light sat for a month started this

User1

Cool. Start a thread in the 5th gen section.

marco-polo

New here and had some questions. Thanks tho!

phock

So, the parking brake cables on my I35 are sticking. Most places seem to have the left parking brake cable, but not the right one. The only option for the right cable is to buy the OEM part which is about $90 compared to $30. Would I be able to use the left cable on the right side of the car? I normally would get an '03 maxima part, but the parking brake on the I35 is different (one of the few differences between the two).

phock

For my I35 I use EBC redstuff pads, should be the same parts for the Maxima. EBC DP31691C pads for the rear (Walmart has good prices online), DP31636C pads for the front.

bitstreambob

I am a retard. Thanks!

Brad Stevenson

Ok so about a month ago the light came on and I reset it. No biggie, if it comes on again I'll get it checked out but knew I was due for a service as she was almost 100K. Last week the light came back on so I took it to Pep Boys and they read the code P0101 maf sensor. So the guy removed and cleaned my MAF and reset the light. Next day the light came back on but had the additional P0171 code. Tried cleaning and resetting it but it wouldn't stay off. So I pulled all the intake and cleaned that up and replaced the filter and plugs. I found one of the vacuum lines of the back passenger side of the manifold had a "crack" but wasnt sure if it I did it or if I just made it worse when I pulled the intake manifold. Replaced it either way. Took it for a drive and after about 20 miles the light came back on. But now the P0171 isnt on just the MAF code. My buddy keeps telling me to check the ground but I cant find anything on line as to where the MAF grounds!?! Any advice or help? Thanks in advance

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The MAF is grounded through one of the wires that plugs into it. Where that wire actually connects to ground, I don't know. You can try adding a temporary ground wire to the engine block from the battery, but I am doubtful that this will do anything. You probably need a MAF. Cleaning the MAF has less than a 25% chance of resolving the problem and you probably are not in the lucky 25%..

You might try posting this in the 7th generation forum as that is what a 2014 Max is. The people there may know of some solution as they are more familiar with your car.

Brad Stevenson

Thanks for the reply Dennis
I need to get my post count up to start a thread but I'll do that once I can. I figured it needed a MAF and honestly if that fixes the issues I'm happy. Now the million dollar question, does the maf need to be OEM or can I buy a cheaper one? I'm on a very tight budget (living off my disability currently) but rather buy once cry once than end up replacing it and paying more 6 months down the road.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You can actually start a thread as soon as you register. The 15 post requirement was done away with a couple of years ago, but it seems that not all the "warning" messages have been deleted.

You don't have to go to Nissan for a new MAF. After market ones work. On out 5th generation cars, Nissan buys the MAF from Hitachi and Hitachi sells it on their own. A on-line place with good prices is rockauto.com. They sell the Hitachi brand and they have one for your 2014. It is $63 plus the shipping.
link - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ow+sensor,5128
info - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...305933&jsn=391

a better deal is $61, shipping included
link -

ben_leib

Good afternoon everyone,
About 3 weeks ago I bought a 2003 maxima se with 62 thousand miles and I've noticed it's been getting about 10mpg. I knew it would get poor gas mileage, after all it is a 3.5 liter, but I didn't think it would be this poor. Car seems to be healthy, and there are no issues besides the poor mpg so I am not sure what I can do to fix it. Any ideas what could be causing it? If anyone is curious I'm filling it with regular 87.

maxiiiboy

Clean your MAF.
Even better, replace it.
Here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ow+sensor,5128 .... go for OEM only (the Hitachi one).

Jacken

Hi everyone, I have searched but still feel nervous about going ahead and buying a transmission control module without being certain.

I have delayed shifting from first to second gear and am wondering if the 31036-4Y901 TCM will work for a 2000 model? I have heard of people using the apparently more expensive 31036-4Y960, but I am struggling to find that online along with the desire to drop heaps of money on it if the 4Y901 could work. Is there a risk the 4Y901 won't work as well?
I have tried to figure out what year my maxima was built in as well to see if i have a dodgy version TCM, but the vin decoders keep telling me 2010 which confuses me. Can you see the part number on the TCM without removing it by just viewing it? I already have the radio out of the car for some other work I am doing so can have a look.

In summary i just want to know; how do I find what part # my TCM is before buying another to try fix the delayed shift? And is the 4Y901 safe for the 2000 maxima? And as good to try as the 4Y960? Or should I try find the 4Y960 and spend the extra?

Thank you so much.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

According to the parts book, the TCM for a 2000 Maxima was 31036-3Y100, replaced by 31036-3Y161. I could not find what cars those other numbers went to. Maybe someone looked at a TCM and saw those numbers on it. When something is made up of several/many pieces, you may see the number for that one piece, not the entire assembly. Unfortunately, Nissan rarely puts the assembly part number on parts.

As for your VIN coming back as a 2010 model, you are the first person to ever mention something like that. There are an awful lot of questions that I don't care to ask about that. Briefly, look at the VIN. From the left end, count over to the 10th character. For a 2000, this should be a Y.

Jacken

Thanks for your reply.

I have seen a few threads where people have talked about the 31036-4Y901 and 31036-4Y960 that I was referring to, like this one for example: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...le-2000-a.html

Thanks for the info though. I was worried about going with the 31036-4Y901 which is cheaper if it has less chance of fixing the issue with 1st to 2nd gear shifting. I may just take the plunge though, it looks like in that thread someone else went with it and it was okay for them.

Also, with my VIN, the 10th character is an 'A'?

Thanks again for responding.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The A as the 10th character certainly says the car is a 2010 model. With that, I have to say that you do not have a 5th generation Maxima. The 5th gen covers years 2000 to 2003. A 2010 Maxima is a 7th generation, year models 2009 to 2015.

The transmission in a 5th gen Maxima is the traditional geared transmission. The transmission in the 7th gen is a CVT, a completely different type of transmission. The TCM module is not interchangeable.

Any information you get from the 5th generation forum about your transmission is guaranteed to not be correct for your car. I suggest you post your question in the 7th generation forum.

This is a 2000 Maxima



This is a 2010 Maxima

lekrayen

Hi guys. I own a 2001 Maxima with about 100k miles on it. Over the past few months I have noticed a sound occurring while driving. It has become louder in recent trips and after some testing I have found that the sound comes from drivers side of the hood/left front wheel area. I have done some research and I suspect it is the wheelbarrow or brake disc/pads. However the brakes were checked by a mechanic and nothing was found wrong with them. While testing I confirmed the sound comes from movement opposed to RPM. There are two sounds made: a lighter whooping sound associated with each rotation of the wheel when driven forward. And a creaking sound made while driven in reverse. I have attached two google drive links with videos containing the sounds.

Backward:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12aY...ew?usp=sharing
Forward:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oz7...ew?usp=sharing

maxiiiboy

I wasn't able to play your video (not sure why).
However, given your description, I would suspect the CV joints and the entire driver-side axle. Check the CV joint boots for tears, and the axle/joints for play and looseness.

Jacken

Would be awesome if my car looked like the 2010 pic attached, but my car looks like this (don't get me wrong I also like the look of mine)

I'm really confused with the vin number!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

My confusion has been cleared up a tiny bit with your photo - you are not in the United States. At least the photo is not a car sold in the United States. The first thing was the side marker light behind the front wheel. Then I saw that the car is a right hand drive car. In the United States, that body style called an Infiniti model I30.

There are many similarities with the North American cars and the European and South Pacific cars. The European cars have the most differences, the electrical parts being the most notable.

The United States Maxima and the United States Infiniti are probably 98% identical. Engine, transmission, suspension, most control modules are interchangeable. Your car could have an engine that was never sold in the United States or it might have the same engine. The main computer module, the ECM (some call it ECU) is different. I would assume that the transmission is the same if your car has the VQ30 engine, but I don't know about the TCM controller.

The VIN is still a mystery. All Nissan vehicles in the United states follow the same template. The VIN is 17 characters long and the 10th character represents the year model of the vehicle. And as I stated before, Y is used for the 2000 models. I can only wonder if Nissan uses a different VIN schema in different parts of the world.

I do not think I can answer your question about the TCM. Perhaps if you post your question in the regular 5th generation forum (you are allowed in spite of messages indicating otherwise) there may be someone that can.

scotty64

hi, new here with a question about my 4 speed auto transmission in a 99 build A33 maxima( like the one pictured in above post). it is an RE4F04B type transmission with a 2nd gear shifting issue.recently i did some work on my car but not transmission related. the following day i use the car which i now have a 2nd gear selection issue. what the auto box does is basically hold in first gear until i either back off the throttle or hold a steady pedal. then it will change out of 1st gear and straight into 3rd bypassing 2nd gear altogether even manually shifting the gear lever into 2nd feels like all i have is a neutral gear,rev it a bit and nothing happens. when the auto downshifts its the same no 2nd gear.there is no selection slip between gears prior to what my problem is now. i checked the oil and it needed to be changed as it was a dark colour like a brownish colour. it didnt smell "burnt".i have since changed the transmission fluid except for what was in the torque converter and added an additive to help with friction and heat. i have replaced the filter, it wasnt too bad, not really dirty or clogged up, the transmission pan had what looked like grey mud accumulated around the base of the magnets, oil did have some metal like particles in it.magnets themselves had an accumulation of metallic particles, to me it didnt look too bad for a transmission that has done 330,000 + km's.i cleaned out the pan and magnets. all reassembled with no leaks from the pan. shift issue still exists as mentioned.i have a cheap obd2 scan tool, it picked up 2 fault codes it could not read them or erase them. no big deal old school way disconnect battery for a period of time to clear codes, shift issue is still present. my question is could the shift solenoid for 2nd gear selection have gone bad literally overnight, i have no CEL light on dash. i doubt its a mounting issue as i cant see any engine/transmission movement when free revving the engine without load in park or neutral nor does it have the usual "banging" noises for torn/broken engine/transmission mounts. one thing i have done to make it an easier car to drive is adjust the throttle position sensor so that it will not hold in first gear for as long. idle has only changed minimal from this adjustment(only did this to improve drive ability while i have this issue.) when i drive under normal acceleration 1st gear will hold to around 3500-4000 rpm before it shifts into 3rd, with the throttle position adjustment i made this has dropped down to around 3000 rpm with a not as harsh upshift into 3rd.i have searched everywhere i can think of to find an answer but what i have found where mainly flaring issues, i found 1 video on youtube that showed what my transmission was doing, he stated that both input and output "speed" sensors where changed out and problem solved. my transmission has only 1 of those sensors located at the rear of the transmission, i could not find any other sensors relating to speed/ turbine, sorry for the long winded post, thought i would put up as much upfront info as possible. any help or direction is greatly appreciated.

update:
i have purchased a better OBD reader and found 2 stored codes one is P1320 which is a misfire( i can feel it on idle, probably a coil not far off failing), the other code is P0325 which is for knock sensor which is apparently common on 5 th gen models. cannot find any codes from the transmission for my shifting issue. 2 codes i have would mainly involve acceleration and fuel economy.i cant see how these 2 codes can cause a transmission to not select 2nd gear in upshifts. also paid more attention to the transmission downshifting, it does go through the 2nd gear cycle but its like its in neutral. i also noted that it will go into overdrive when its selected but as soon as i add any power it drops out which it never did before unless it was hard acceleration like overtaking another car or climbing hills .my hunch is possibly the solenoid for 2nd/4th gear had failed, looks like an easy enough change out without removing the valve body as there is a reasonable amount of room to get to the securing bolts for the solenoid assembly.

Roy Holley

Seafoam spray.. Has anyone ever sprayed that in the intake to clean it up a little. My 2000 Max gxe is idling high. When I have in gear it is fine. When I put it in park or neutral the RPMs go up 2o 2000

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Many people have sprayed Seafoam into the airstream to clean the throttle body. Whether is cleans the MAF sensor, probably. Generally people use CRC MAF cleaner to clean the MAF.

guapoman2000

Bought my 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE with 214,330 original miles from a retired co-worker as he didn't need the car anymore (work car). I was his since new (original owner) and came from Palmdale, California.

I am very happy since it was very well taken care of and looks great and has lots of power.

The only item I have done to it was to adjust the driver's door lock as it sounded mis-aligned and took the Maxima to a Pro Shop for flushing out Power Steering Fluid.

I am posting some pictures.

However, I do have a question about seeking reasonable labor costs for replacing the CV Drive Axles and you can view that discussion thread over at:
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ive-axles.html

Thank you.

Super clean.

First drive out to a local eatery

No, the bumper does NOT have any issue. that's the shadow of his bushes.

Not a tear or stain!

Super Clean!

Detailed inspections

Power Steering Flush

Minor adjustment to the driver's door lock angle.

another co-worker gave me the netting.

warchief337`

Hey guys I own A 2001 Nissan Maxima 20th SE, I have the drivers side skirts in my trunk cause they fell off the other day , and I wanna know if Any knows of any videos or tutorials on how to put them back on ( or if you know pm me) but I have already searched around and have had no luck on finding a video or anything, its the two piece Side rocker panels for the 20th anniversary Thanks Happy Halloween!

Jason Lowe

Hi All,

Hoping someone can help me out with this weird steering issue. When the temperature outside is above zero the car drives fine. When it's colder than that, like today the steering has a skip. Ie the steering wheel moves from it's usual center position to about a 2 o'clock position for no reason. I"ve bled the system and replaced the fluid, have no power steering leaks and the pump seems to be fine as the effort to turn the wheel is consistent. Thinking maybe the steering rack but why does this not happen when it's warmer outside if the rack is worn?

Thanks up front for the help.

CHRISTOPHER.GADSEN

I just bought a 2000 gxe 5 speed and i have a question!!!

It drives well but in 3rd gear and sometimes other gears as im accelerating it hesitates slightly around the 3200 rpm mark... What can this be???

Mrelcocko

Curious ifthe HIDs came standard or was it an option on 2000 models? I know it's probably a stupid question but I need to know for wiring purposes.

Mrelcocko

It's hard for me to describe what I'm hearing pass front. It sounds kinda like something grinding or rubbing. It's not the tire or brakes. No places where rubbing appears. It's not a constant noise. It does it when accelerating on occasion and sometimes when slightly turning. I kinda leaning towards a strut bearing. Really I have no clue. Maybe an axel?

baked herbs

Long time lurker first time joining the forum

BTW car in question is a 02 maxipad 6spd with 235k

Need some clarification

How many crank/cam sensors do we have?

I've replaced 3 two under both valve covers and the one facing the radiation fans all on driver side
Part #s 23731-AL61A " "-AL60C and " "-6J90b

I'm not sure about the last one though.

Replaced those and I still have p0335

The reason they were replaced was because car had multiple misfire code. Replaced both front and rear leaky covers and one bad coil.

After that car ran fine but still had check engine so I got a code scan which gave me p0335 p0102 p0113 p0223 p1224

I've replaced Maf with eBay part (throttle response is better)
And got a new throttle body and did the relearn

I must stress before changing sensors car ran fine no odd idle no " misfire like" feeling during idle

Now it struggles at 3500-4000 before it remembers that its being floored
Like it picks up early on the rpms but at that specific point it has like a surge I'm leaning towards clogged cats since it feels like it suddenly ran into a pool of glue for a split second before getting freed
But figured I'd ask

Drives fine with the a/c on and it starts right up every time

At idle it will randomly dip rpms to where it kinda wants to stall but it doesn't it blips back up to normal after a minute or so.
Think of it like turning on the ac in a 4cyl and the rpms dip

Would getting the codes reset work here?
I got appt with stealership for diag but I'm sure someone's gone through this bs before and could help me save the 150 they want

Huh thinking back I'm asking two questions.

1. How many crank/cam sensors and their locations
2.anyone ever faced these issues

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

did you replace with OEM? or ebay / aftermarket sensors? that may be your first problem if you did not replace the 3 total CPS sesnors with OEM Nissan Sensors

baked herbs

Yeah I forgot to specify that

2 of the sensors has the "Id" logo and from reaserch those are true OEM and one looks like a generic one.

For ****s and giggles I put back the old ones and car idles slightly better but it has more power loss
It doesn't have the same "pick up" like it does with the new ones

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

get all 3 oem, or just give up now, i already went thru this, i had no codes. and had issues come right back with in 1 year with aftermarket., i am not sure about aftermarket MAF's either. but one step at a time. i guess. i didn't look into all of your codes, i would research around here a little more and see what you can find.

baked herbs

Why though? Two ARE (according to le google) OEM and one is iffy if anything I gotta match that iffy one with OEM.

The ones on the car itself were generic as they didnt have the branding the oems have

I've lurked this forum a lot when I had my 01 AE

Most members have problems starting, crappy driving while ac is turned on, or the car shuts off while driving.

I don't experience any of that except for the power loss and the odd misfire like feeling.
I don't remember if it was here or another Nissan forum where the guy was complaining about the car misfiring every two secs during idle only to be told its "normal" or something like that

So I figured I'd post since I didn't see/didn't search deep enough to find someone with my same issues or relevant ones

And the maf some members have stated that its OK to use aftermarket Mafs seeing as how the OEM still goes for up to $550 according to nissan

Ain't no way in hell I'm dropping $500 on a sensor that can be purchased for under $100

I was originally going to use the 01 Maf and just transfer my iat sensor onto the 01 Maf but I couldn't find any with the terminals for it most I saw had " dummy" plugs

Idk after replacing both valve covers and the one bad coil car ran nice but didn't have the power it does now albeit wonky.

I accredit the "more power" to the Maf though.
I remember my 01 had clogged cats and at 3k it would hit a pool of glue hard. I thought after replacing the cats with obx headers would fix it but nah damn Maf was bad

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

ok good luck dude, i told you once i lived the problem of non oem cps sensors, thats why., OEM CPS sensors or have fun wasting your time, you have other problems too so not sure about those, if you checked on aftermarket mafs, then good ! thats one less thing, but untill you do all 3 CPS sensors OEM, then you will be doing circles.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

it sucked they were at least $80 a piece OEM. but i haven't looked back since,

baked herbs

So you lived in the land of bs sensors but still can't tell me were the crank sensor is?

We've spent this whole time arguing semantics

Like I said I've lurked this specific forum (maxima.org) alot and occasionally 4dsc and sometimes either nico or Nissan forums.

And somewhere in those pages there was talk that Nissan OEM have the "ID" logo on em so anything that claims to be OEM and doesn't bare that symbol is probably generic eBay stuff.

I'm WELL aware of how generic sensors will f off it's mentioned damn near in every single post involving p0335 here within the 5th gen sub branch

no offence but save your breath on that