Oil Leak
#1
Oil Leak
Hey guys!
Now I am moving on to the oil leak. I can't find where it is coming from. I Thought that I found it yesterday but that is actually the power steering pump that looks like it is leaking... But my PS fluid is at the same level it has been since I purchased the car.
There is oil on the ps pulley, the crank pulley and around the oil filter area, I guess I will clean it up and try to find the leak when I get a chance. I have gone through about 3/4's of a quart in 1000 miles. I don't ever see the oil on the ground but It is all over down there.
Now I am moving on to the oil leak. I can't find where it is coming from. I Thought that I found it yesterday but that is actually the power steering pump that looks like it is leaking... But my PS fluid is at the same level it has been since I purchased the car.
There is oil on the ps pulley, the crank pulley and around the oil filter area, I guess I will clean it up and try to find the leak when I get a chance. I have gone through about 3/4's of a quart in 1000 miles. I don't ever see the oil on the ground but It is all over down there.
#2
Maybe a bad rear valve cover? I know my valve cover is leaking on to my Y-pipe and I never see a drop on the ground, but once I'm underneath it the oil is all over the place.
Also, maybe it's leaking from one of the seals behind the cam gear? Though I don't think that's a common problem with our cars.
Also, maybe it's leaking from one of the seals behind the cam gear? Though I don't think that's a common problem with our cars.
#3
I used a mirror and i didn't see anything from the rear valve cover (doesn't mean its not the cover) There is oil in the center of my crank pulley but I think its just pooling there... I could be wrong...
Ugh this car has been a headache from day 1 lol. Oh well...
Ugh this car has been a headache from day 1 lol. Oh well...
#11
No write-up needed. Only patience. It's a little tedious, but you feel really good after. Rear valve cover is a must if it's high mileage. Might as well grab some plugs while you're back there if they have high mileage. Some suggest rear coils as preventative maintenance, but the rear covers on the 3.5 are pretty easy. Personally, I'll save my $300 for when it's necessary.
#15
Its also puddling around the oil filter but you could be right. If its the Crank seal I would have to rent a puller right? This car is getting on my nerves
And no I didn't change any gaskets when I did the plugs.
I posted a picture before when I replaced my Valve Body, it was oil between the tranny and motor, it would make sense if the upper pan was bad if there is oil in both places right?
Just kidding it was actually coolant that was down there, god I am getting old or something.
And no I didn't change any gaskets when I did the plugs.
I posted a picture before when I replaced my Valve Body, it was oil between the tranny and motor, it would make sense if the upper pan was bad if there is oil in both places right?
Just kidding it was actually coolant that was down there, god I am getting old or something.
Last edited by pkrainert; 04-18-2011 at 03:49 PM.
#16
You don't need a puller......the clamping force supplied by the pulley bolt retains the pulley, and it's keyed to the crankshaft. The pulley bolt torque is high (29-36 ft/lbs plus an additional 60-66 deg. rotation) and I believe it takes well over 200 ft/lbs to loosen it. You'll need a good flex bar/pipe extension......some people have used the "jam the bar/bump the starter" method and others have got lucky with a really good impact wrench through the fender well. If required, for loosening the bolt, and for the torquing procedure you'll need good solid countertorque by jamming the starter ring gear through the bell housing access cover. The VQ30 valve covers are not all that prone to leaking, I don't believe, and if there was little or no oil in the spark plug tubes when you accomplished the spark plug replacement then I wouldn't automatically replace the tube seals (they are replaceable......unlike the VQ35).
#18
I'm always hesitant to assign the cause of oil leaks to the front crank seal and rear main seal first unless you know it's coming from that exact spot. In my experience and research, these are often not the culprit. Instead, reseal the upper oil pan which includes the front and rear oil pan gaskets. These two gaskets harden like an old vc gasket which causes the leaks. The actual crank and rear main seals usually have a much longer life span.
#19
#20
On the contrary. I think the 3.5 is easier. The DBW being the main reason. Wait. Nissan corrected the access to the rear plugs for two years only to hide them again?
#21
Changing the rear valve cover gasket it an easy task it just takes a little bit of time. I had changed both gaskets (front and back) out on my 96 when I had it, I don't think its those gaskets though :/
#22
pk...what sealant did you recommend using for the gasket replacement..i remember your thread, just forgot where/what you used..
#23
I used the RED RTV becuase its what I had on hand. I think Permatex may be better but the RTV seems to work fine for this.
I agree with Phat Boi, how is taking the IM off easier than taking off a single bolt per coil pack?
I agree with Phat Boi, how is taking the IM off easier than taking off a single bolt per coil pack?
Last edited by NmexMAX; 04-19-2011 at 10:18 AM.
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