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Oil Leak

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Old 04-18-2011, 11:14 AM
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Oil Leak

Hey guys!

Now I am moving on to the oil leak. I can't find where it is coming from. I Thought that I found it yesterday but that is actually the power steering pump that looks like it is leaking... But my PS fluid is at the same level it has been since I purchased the car.

There is oil on the ps pulley, the crank pulley and around the oil filter area, I guess I will clean it up and try to find the leak when I get a chance. I have gone through about 3/4's of a quart in 1000 miles. I don't ever see the oil on the ground but It is all over down there.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:25 AM
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Maybe a bad rear valve cover? I know my valve cover is leaking on to my Y-pipe and I never see a drop on the ground, but once I'm underneath it the oil is all over the place.

Also, maybe it's leaking from one of the seals behind the cam gear? Though I don't think that's a common problem with our cars.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:30 AM
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I used a mirror and i didn't see anything from the rear valve cover (doesn't mean its not the cover) There is oil in the center of my crank pulley but I think its just pooling there... I could be wrong...

Ugh this car has been a headache from day 1 lol. Oh well...
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:32 AM
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Check the upper oil pan seals and RTV. High mileage occurrence. Most people ignore it. It's kinda a PITA to fix, but worth the time for me.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:34 AM
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Hmm ok I will have to check that out, do you know if there is a write-up or anything in particular that I need to look out for?
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:35 AM
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^x2 on that

i will be replacing my rear vc this week i hope
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:54 AM
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I have been searching threads and on google about the upper pan. It sounds like a PITA! I hope I get lucky and its a valve cover or something easy... sigh.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:57 AM
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lol well im smelling burning so ill just stick w/ replacing the VC gaskets
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:59 AM
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i'm having the same exact symptoms i was told i have a rear valve cover leak
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Old 04-18-2011, 12:03 PM
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I don't have any burning oil smell... I found a decentish thread about the upper pan, I know I can do it I just don't want to lol.
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pkrainert
I have been searching threads and on google about the upper pan. It sounds like a PITA! I hope I get lucky and its a valve cover or something easy... sigh.
No write-up needed. Only patience. It's a little tedious, but you feel really good after. Rear valve cover is a must if it's high mileage. Might as well grab some plugs while you're back there if they have high mileage. Some suggest rear coils as preventative maintenance, but the rear covers on the 3.5 are pretty easy. Personally, I'll save my $300 for when it's necessary.
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:18 PM
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I have a 3.0 and my coils are newer and the plugs are about 250 miles old.
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pkrainert
I have a 3.0 and my coils are newer and the plugs are about 250 miles old.
Ahhhh... the 3.0. You didn't change the vc gasket when you did the plugs?
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:00 PM
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If it's puddling in the center of the crank pulley I would suspect that you've got a leaking front crank seal.
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:21 PM
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Its also puddling around the oil filter but you could be right. If its the Crank seal I would have to rent a puller right? This car is getting on my nerves

And no I didn't change any gaskets when I did the plugs.

I posted a picture before when I replaced my Valve Body, it was oil between the tranny and motor, it would make sense if the upper pan was bad if there is oil in both places right?


Just kidding it was actually coolant that was down there, god I am getting old or something.

Last edited by pkrainert; 04-18-2011 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:06 PM
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You don't need a puller......the clamping force supplied by the pulley bolt retains the pulley, and it's keyed to the crankshaft. The pulley bolt torque is high (29-36 ft/lbs plus an additional 60-66 deg. rotation) and I believe it takes well over 200 ft/lbs to loosen it. You'll need a good flex bar/pipe extension......some people have used the "jam the bar/bump the starter" method and others have got lucky with a really good impact wrench through the fender well. If required, for loosening the bolt, and for the torquing procedure you'll need good solid countertorque by jamming the starter ring gear through the bell housing access cover. The VQ30 valve covers are not all that prone to leaking, I don't believe, and if there was little or no oil in the spark plug tubes when you accomplished the spark plug replacement then I wouldn't automatically replace the tube seals (they are replaceable......unlike the VQ35).
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:11 PM
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There was no oil in the tubes or on any of the plugs. And thanks for the advice! I will check this out after revisiting my darn coolant problem.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
If it's puddling in the center of the crank pulley I would suspect that you've got a leaking front crank seal.
I'm always hesitant to assign the cause of oil leaks to the front crank seal and rear main seal first unless you know it's coming from that exact spot. In my experience and research, these are often not the culprit. Instead, reseal the upper oil pan which includes the front and rear oil pan gaskets. These two gaskets harden like an old vc gasket which causes the leaks. The actual crank and rear main seals usually have a much longer life span.
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by nelledge
Ahhhh... the 3.0. You didn't change the vc gasket when you did the plugs?
lol i dont think changing the rear VC is that easy..we dont have to remove our UIM in order to get to our plugs like in the 3.5.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim
lol i dont think changing the rear VC is that easy..we dont have to remove our UIM in order to get to our plugs like in the 3.5.
On the contrary. I think the 3.5 is easier. The DBW being the main reason. Wait. Nissan corrected the access to the rear plugs for two years only to hide them again?
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:26 AM
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Changing the rear valve cover gasket it an easy task it just takes a little bit of time. I had changed both gaskets (front and back) out on my 96 when I had it, I don't think its those gaskets though :/
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nelledge
On the contrary. I think the 3.5 is easier. The DBW being the main reason. Wait. Nissan corrected the access to the rear plugs for two years only to hide them again?
DBW?! as for me i just took out the bolts that the coilpacks were locked in with, wiggled the coilpack out, and took the plugs out, and threw the new ones in.....seems way easier than having to take off the UIM. i was thoroughly pissed when i found that out doing my moms 3.5

pk...what sealant did you recommend using for the gasket replacement..i remember your thread, just forgot where/what you used..
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:14 AM
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I used the RED RTV becuase its what I had on hand. I think Permatex may be better but the RTV seems to work fine for this.

I agree with Phat Boi, how is taking the IM off easier than taking off a single bolt per coil pack?

Last edited by NmexMAX; 04-19-2011 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:52 AM
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ok cool thanks man
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim
DBW?! as for me i just took out the bolts that the coilpacks were locked in with, wiggled the coilpack out, and took the plugs out, and threw the new ones in.....
Originally Posted by pkrainert
I agree with Phat Boi, how is taking the IM off easier than taking off a single bolt per coil pack?
I wasn't referencing the ease of changing plugs, but the changing of the rear v/c gasket.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:19 AM
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Oh haha, ok sorry then. Well I have no idea I don't have a 3.5...I wish I had one but I do not.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:26 AM
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OH..WELL..you may have a point lol
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