PTNR

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

anyone have an issue with their starter where you go to start the car and when you turn the key, you get a click but the motor doesn't turn over? i am having this issue and the funny thing is that if i try several times in a row to start the car, eventually it does start. other times i go to sart the car and it fires up on the first try. i am guessing there is a bad spot in the starter and when i try multiple times, it eventually comes around to the point where there is a contact and so it starts. this has been going on for a couple of months now and i am wondering if there is anything other than the starter iteself to check. mu battery is new and my connection at the battery are clean and tight.

what do you guys think?

kukx30de

iTrader: (4)

Depending on the miles on your car.... you may be due for a new starter.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

+1 It sounds like the starter. The solenoid to be more specific. The ignition source is enough voltage to kick the drive out(the click you hear), but the solenoid is shorting which will not allow the connection for battery voltage/amperage to turn the drive. The starter can be removed in about an hour(less time after you've had some experience). Take it out and have it bench-tested to confirm diagnosis. Of course, the battery should be checked first since it's the easiest to access.

Amave

Autozone lifetime starters FTW!!!


Changed mine last summer and havent had a problem

hondaeatingtsi

ahd the same problem. drove it like that till it quit all together. i dont recommend doing that because your putting alot more stress on the ing cly. get a new starter and be done with it.

ffcbairn

-1 If they are the same as the 4th gen I had to use my lifetime warranty multiple times. I got one that was faulty right away, another one died within a few weeks. Their rebuild quality is dubious at best.

Professor

iTrader: (4)

check the 2 relays in the little box by the battery first, they have a high failure rate.

vybz05

ive been having this problem for a while.. starting just clicks.. eventually after like 15 clicks it would start. it did that for about 3 weeks, then all of a sudden, started starting again, not instantaneously, but vroom, vroom vrooooooom, instead of vroooooooom on one click... i guess its fixed itself!

PTNR

iTrader: (2)

do you mean that if the relays are bad then i could have intermittent starting problems? i would think that if the relays went bad then it simply would not start at all...

NAVY00MAXIMA

I think you should replace your starter. It may work as it is for a while but when it goes. It goes. Leaving you possibly stranded. It's an easy job. It's as simple as taking your old one off and putting the replacement in its location. Be sure to disconnect the NEG (-) battery terminal.

Eirik

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I have only heard solenoids click when the starter was totally crapped out. Even if you can manage to turn it over after lots of cranking, you should consider that a blessing as it permits you to drive to an auto parts store and pick up a new starter before, like Navy00 pointed out, you are left stranded somewhere.

Nelledge is a very knowledgeable chap--any time he writes something, you'd best heed it.


Edit: Er... 30 seconds is some other thread? Also, haha, I don't know where to find a "strarter" on my car.

vans max

I'm a new member and need some help.
I have similar issue w/ 2001 SE automatic, (99,000 miles). Went to store and when we returned to the car, would not start. Took a jume just fine but the car quit after a mile or so & had to tow home. Was clicking rapidly at first but now will not even start with a jump very easily, if at all. I did clean the battery terminals. Dash lights are bright and the battery checks out good. I figure either the starter or the alternator. Please let me know what you think.
Very few problems with the car since I bought it new. All original coils, O2 sensors and haven't had a tune up yet. I did have one of the cats replaced around 20K miles ago. Been a real good car and this is the first time I've had this issue. I did have a check engine light about a year ago but went off by itself and never came on again.
Help appreciated.
Thanks, VC

NAVY00MAXIMA

Alternator or battery. You should have your battery tested first (AutoZone) to see if it is the culprit.. Replacing both are easy jobs if you are capable of turning a wrench and own even the crappiest set of tools. This will cover step 1 of removing the alternator for you-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJzpTHIky18
^- how to remove alternator/ac belt.

Professor

iTrader: (4)

They can cause intermittent issues. check the cheap items first i always say.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

To add some detail to what NAVY00MAXIMA said, after you have you battery tested, make sure that it is fully charged. If a good battery is not fully charged, it won't start the car. Then, when the car is running, check that the altenator is charging.

ProjectX7

And to do that, put a multimeter (set on voltage) across the terminals and check for greater than 13 1/2 volts....or put a ferrous object near the *** end of the alternator and see if a magnetic field is present....LOL

vans max

Thanks for the help guys. I took the advise and had the battery checked at AutoZone. "Bad battery". The counter guy said that it will not hold a charge. I went to Costco and picked up a $50 battery, (after $9 rebate), hooked it up, turned the key and fired right up. Hopefully the alternator is working and will keep the battery charged. I don't have a multimeter so haven't checked.
Thank you for the help.
VC

NAVY00MAXIMA

I've never gotten more than 4-6 months life out of a cheap battery. You can purchase a cheap mulitmeter at HarborFreight. Here's a link to their online store http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...t?q=multimeter

vans max

Thanks Navy. After my last post, I went to Home Depot and bought a $20 multimeter. Took me a few minutes to figure out how to use it but I did and all looks great with the car. Apx. 12.6 for the battery and 14.5 or so when running. All is well and the ol' Max is right again!
Re: the cheap battery, I'd heard that Costco, (Kirkland) has a good rep for their batteries. It's a 100 month unit, (yeah - sure) and supposedly cranks harder than the OEM. We'll see.
Good to know there are people on these fourms that know what they're talking about. I believe that next time I have an issue with the car, these fourms will be the first place I turn.
Unrelated question - hope that's within the rules. Have never had a tune up and now at 99,000. Afraid to go to a shop for fear they'll screw up the coils or something. Last long drive, we got 25+ MPG at 70 - 80 MPH for 200 miles. Do you think I should consider a tune up / plugs, wires / fuel filter? I have been smelling anti-freeze lately and thinking maybe the hoses should be replaced. Probebly going to get in to money with the car before long but, great car and no reason to "dump" it. Still looks good too. If you know of a good shop in CT that is very familier with Maximas, please let me know.
Thanks again.

NAVY00MAXIMA

100k miles is maintenence time. My own list of things would be- Water pump. Thermostat. OEM sparkplugs. Timing tensioner at the least if you do not want to replace all of your timing equip...

Fuel filter would be a VERY good idea. There is only one and it is in the tank. Do some searching on the forum for write-ups and see which of the jobs you can do yourself to save a few bucks and stick around.

PTNR

iTrader: (2)

where in CT are you?

vans max

I'm in Norwalk

PTNR

iTrader: (2)

really... i'm in Norwalk too.

small world.