Like I said I have huge problems and this is lengthy so please read if your willing to help. I would also like to request that one calls me names of any sort for anything I may have done incorrectly. So, I bought an SRI 3 days ago and installed it. Everything was working just fine except for the fact that an unusually strong scent of gas was coming from the exhaust. So I instantly thought i may need a A/F tuning, something that was discussed here about a week ago and was told it was not needed. So I'm driving and noticed the change in HP and the way the car picked up. I hit the open road and WOT (big mistake). The howl was outrageous. Then I TRIED it again and the car sounded like it was drowning with air. Mind you I have a BOP from NWP. The car since has not gone PAST 2400 RPMs and won't drive past 70 mph. I have done the following: changed the UIM (including the throttle body and VIAS assembly), re-installed the OEM intake, and unplugged the battery for around 10-15 mins and NOTHING. I have asked my mechanic aswell as Universal Nissan whether or not this issue involves an A/F ratio re-tuning and both have told me that this can be the issue but it isn't 100% certain. I've gone to a couple of tuning shops with dyno's but they said they don't have the software for our cars as it costs 5000$ and they needed 500$ more for the software and I dont have 500$ to dish out. Nissan dealers will not touch a car with over 100,000 miles and I'm over that amount. So I'm here again, my last resort once again, to ask for advice. Before I spend money on anything else, does any one here have any advice regarding this and what I can do? And by the way, I have tried turning on the car in morning for a cold start and the same thing. At this point I have to disconnect the MAF in order to start the car. If I dont do that then the car sounds like its struggling to stay on and then it dies out leaving all the light inside the car and the little warning lights in the ODO housing on. Please help.


Thank You

 

check ur pm's

 

Why the dealership won't touch the car over 100,000 is boggling? Why would they turn away any business in this day and age???

 

i'm willing to bet your MAF is toast...or something of the sort regarding your MAF

 

Also, if you can make it to Advance Auto or AutoZone they can check your check engine light for free that you have on your cluster.

 

Yea my mechanic is available now and he said the MAF was brand spankin' new so it can't be the MAF. I'm going over there now to pull everything apart and see what's going on. I'll try to keep you guys updated. In the mean time any advice would still be apreciated. And yea about the autozone diagnostic I'm going over there tomorrow to get it done.

 

+1

Your car is limping, and you just messed around with your MAF by installing the SRI. While I'm sure you didn't drop-kick the MAF down the driveway, it's possible that something happened during the install.

So... get the 2001 MAF for $90, swap your old IAT thermistor, and cross your fingers. Worse case, you've got a brand new MAF.

There are lots of threads about this swap process. And "It's your MAF" t-shirts cost $12.95 at the Forum Store.


[edit] you were typing as I was posting. New MAF, eh? Hmm.

Well, in that case, I'd say your problem is coincidental to your SRI install, and not related to it. I mean, it's just a SRI, and the only component that could get whacked is your MAF.

 

here's my two MAF experiences...one, i had a broken MAF adapter and didnt know it. i was traveling to pick up a friend from work, and my car would buck and shut off, but it would start right up, but next stop, same thing....popped the hood, looked everything over and saw my filter toppled over and realized the MAF adapter was broke, got home put on my stock air box, not a problem since

two...i was replacing my VC gaskets and had just put my car back together...i started the car up to see if everything was good..everything was...except it wouldnt rev past a certain point..then i remembered, i didnt have my MAF connected, connected it, no problems...its something w/ your MAF. where did you get it from, is the adapter broken/not fully assembled?

 

walk us threw your installation

 

With the SRI, was it an oiled air filter? If so, go get some MAF cleaner and thoroughly clean your MAF. It may have been contaminated the moment you floored it.

 

Well I went to my mechanic and we took things apart and tested certain things and used our common senses and brain power to realize that the problem was... MY MAF! You all were right. I did, infact, install the SRI properly only thing was that the MAF sensor burned out because of all of the hot air that the intake was taking in. The hot engine bay air completely burned out my MAF. The MAF came new with my engine appx. 3,500 miles ago. So the SRI + Hot air destroyed my MAF. Maybe the MAF was a factory defect I don't know. All I know is that the mother of my child wants the SRI and BOP gone. No engine mods what so ever. I thank all of you for your concerns and your help. Thank you!

 

It was installed correctly I'm sure of it and by the way that's a clean a** maxima you have! +1 on the rims bro.

 

Id say you sent your maf on a walk to the junk pile are if a friend neat by can let you throw there's in and are if it fixes it . And if no ones nice then buy a new one

 

Save some dollars and get the 00-01 one. I'm suprised bc I have an intake and don't seem to be having significant issues.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...r-2k1-maf.html

 

lol thanks brro

 

glad to hear you got it resolved

 

How does hot air kill the MAF???

 

Ditto that. I mean, I'm glad you realized the MAF was blown, but I've never heard this "hot air" explanation before. That sounds like your mechanic coming to a conclusion that you can both accept with conventional wisdom. But as goes most "conventional wisdom"... well, you get my point.

When getting a new MAF, do your research on the IAT swap into the 2001 MAF, and save yourself $300.

Kind of funny reading how your wife put her foot down on mods. Mine would also like to see me drive a newer car, rather than modding a 9 year old 4dr.

 

could have been a 'cheap' MAF...possibly..

 

I still think it was an over-oiled filter that killed it.

 

Sometimes the MAF just goes bad. The SRI has nothing to do with it. The stock intake still breathes hot air!!!

Leave the mods, swap the thermistor to a 2001 MAF for $87 and good to go.

My MAF experience was that it went bad, but the wire harness also had a slightly broken wire that I had to solder after being frustrated I screwed something up when my new MAF did not work....

 

Holy MAF! Batman. It got us again!
Yes, Robin, but in the end wisdom was our friend.

Hot air does not a MAF fry. I've got a SRI and it was just over 100* here yesterday.

 

I completely agree... the hot air thing is nonsense. But now he's gone and told his wife that the SRI fried the MAF because of "hot air". And sure enough, his mechanic backs that up.

Game over.

 

LoL good old rochester.. plethora of knowledge will definitely look into this swap.

[EDIT]

Yes in deed everything you said that happened with the wife did happen. She also used the child against me. So if I buy a new sensor just replace it but, do I have to make any adjustments to my wire harness?

 

It was a Nissan OEM so I'm thinking it was a factory defect?

 

Hot air Alone did not cook the maf. So glad to hear it's been resolved bro. Here is my thought, your oiled filter thru some excess oil off filter which coated maf. As the car got driven for 2 to 3 days the oil got hot as oil will do,and the coated Maf, then el took a dumpyus Maximus. Just my 2 cents.

 

To be honest, I'm with all of you guys. I have never read anything about hot air and mass air flow destruction. If that were the case then it would be common knowledge to stay away from SRIs. sorry my posts maybe be some what choppy as I'm at work and want to continue to take in all of your responses.

 

Nope. Just swap the IAT thermistor, plug in the harness, and go. And no re-learn necessary.

When swapping the IAT, consider soldering the connection.

 

You could also just super glue it, if you not as mechanically inclined. Make sure you do it couple times to reduce the chance for it to give out. Soldering would be the best choice so see if your mechanic can do it.

 

OP did not verify if it was indeed an oiled filter, did he? Just curious.

 

Cheaper than a new car payment is it not lol?

 

Weapon R Secret Weapon SRI

 

Makes sense I'll have to have my mechanic do it seeing as how I don't have the equipment as well as not even having any experience soldering.

 

It's not necessary at all. If you have more brain cells than a benz driving yuppie, then you can squeeze the forks enough to hold the iat in there indefinitely. Close the tips around the top and it's impossible for it to fall out.

It comes from the factory like that. No reason to over think things.

 

The swapped IAT came loose on MIK3 after doing this, maybe a year ago. He's a smart guy who knows his stuff about the 5.5 gen... and yet it came loose.

It's not over-think at all. Solder the connection, OP. Be confident.

If your mechanic is doing this, then it's no extra skin at all.

 

Ok I'll be confident and just do it. I'll just go ahead and buy the stuff then. You know I'm the type of person who investigates and tries to get to the bottom of things. I'm over here looking up product codes for MAFS for the 6th gens. We all have the 3.5 (exception given to the early 2002 models) and I cant find any info regarding the use of the 6th gen 3.5 MAFS in a 5.5 gen.

 

When I bought my 2001 MAF, I ordered it through my dealership. That way I could get it in my hands and confirm it was exactly perfect for the swap before committing to the purchase.

If I remember correctly when I went through this, the OEM 5.0 gen MAF does not support mounting the IAT thermistor on the MAF unit, but the MAF design that made it into their eventual parts supply does. Do you follow? The conclusion is that NISSAN merged their design on this item as a cost-savings measure, with the only difference being inclusion of this $0.15 thermistor. Which adds up to a pretty good profit, seeing as how they retained the $300 differential.

 

Yea I understand 100%. See I'm also very picky, everyone who knows me personally will agree. So I did opt to do the soldering until I found the sensor product code for the 5.5 and found some on ebay and just bought one from there. Thanks Rochester for all of my newly acquired knowledge, I really appreciate it.

 

By the way I decided to clean the MAFS for s***s-n-giggles and nothing. New MAFS coming soon (hopefully)