Hard Starting and Crankshaft Sensor: A new lesson learned
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 11
OK, Ya I hear u, thought the same, I did do some testing good thing, well I knew there was a splice up by engine cowl that I confirmed was right last week, today though I found another splice before sensor, took it out and tested continuity and they had it wrong, put back together, will start after long crank, did it a few times, mon I do a cold start and see, then take it to get codes cleared and see what pops up. hears something, before the rewiring, the tach would work with sensor connected, but would not start. The hot wire has 12v with key on, but the way they had it, it went nowheres, Now tach wont work but starts with ckp still connected, real test tomorrow, I dont thing flywheel is off at this point, which is GOOD news.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 306
From: California
Sorry I don't have pics to post. I have a 2k auto tranny and there is an open thread on the top of the tranny almost directly under the ABS actuator. If I recall it is a size 10M x 1.25 threading. It is relatively shallow, around a 1/2 inch or less in depth. The other connection point in the negative battery terminal. Total length of cable was 2.5 feet.
I can confirm it is 1.25 thread as I initially used a 1.5 thread on accident and found it to be stripping. I had to tap the hole to 1.5 thread.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 11
Ok , after fixing some mistakes, back to square one,no start with sensor plugged in, after start I plug in sensor in, have tach working, I have voltage to sensor (13.96v when running) 12v with key on, grd is ok, white wire continuity cks out from sensor end to pin 95 (battery disconnected), when running and sensor plugged in only 1.8 v to pin 95 on ECM, FSM says 2.4v. also checked sensor for short as in FSM, it is ok. Does distance from signal plate have anything to do with it, it is 1/4 in from sensor end to plate. Reading FSM the pulse needs to be scoped. Was there a change in sensor voltage for 2002-03? I thought I read newer ones 2004- are 5v. Still not sure if I have the right sensor, dealer says they can't go by number on the sensor itself, they say thats just the manufactuers number.
Epilogue:
Problem solved.
It was the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Pressure Dampener.
Took me about 2 hours to replace everything, $245 for both parts and an o-ring.
It's like brand new. Love it.
Problem solved.
It was the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Pressure Dampener.
Took me about 2 hours to replace everything, $245 for both parts and an o-ring.
It's like brand new. Love it.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 33
From: Miami FL
hello people,
just though that i should give in my experience since thanks to the forum, this post and many others in here i was able to solve my 99 maxima with the same hard start with clunking noise described in this thread. After a lot of reading everything turned out to be the STARTER and the IGNITION SWITCH, just in case it might help someone
just though that i should give in my experience since thanks to the forum, this post and many others in here i was able to solve my 99 maxima with the same hard start with clunking noise described in this thread. After a lot of reading everything turned out to be the STARTER and the IGNITION SWITCH, just in case it might help someone
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 336
From: vancouver
montego murph, how did you figure out the dampner was bad? i replaced my FPR for a hard start issue and it didnt help me much, im curious if you inspect the dampner the same way as the FPR?
From what ive read, the dampner is there only to stop the wave of gas from hitting the injectors and fouling them up. if it was the dampner how would that affect the starts? also how much did you pay for the dampner and where??
Everything is *perfect.* Have not had a struggled start or any sort of related issue since then.
The only thing the car does which I don't care for (I've mentioned this somewhere else on the forum but was told "dont worry, it's normal") is that immediately upon starting, the engine does a quick "blip" rev to 2000-3000 rpm (it varies.) It doesn't last for more than a split second, but it makes me cringe that a cold engine at 0 oil pressure is revving like that.
c'est la vie I suppose
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 25
From: RI
Similar issue. Please advise.
2000 maxima (over complicated money pit.) Engine cranks, starts, immediately dies... Changed: Temp coolant sensor, maf,coils, plugs, crank sencor,cam sencor, iav, cleaned throttle body, new o2 sensors, new upper intake manifold gaskets...thinking fuel filter next??
2000 maxima (over complicated money pit.) Engine cranks, starts, immediately dies... Changed: Temp coolant sensor, maf,coils, plugs, crank sencor,cam sencor, iav, cleaned throttle body, new o2 sensors, new upper intake manifold gaskets...thinking fuel filter next??
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
cranck sensor
Hi i have a nissan maxima 2001 and i stop using it cuz it wont start someone told me it was the crack sensor but i couldt find it it will be nice if you can put an image where is located or a video how to replace it thank you
Does the starter work and crank the engine?
Is the check engine light on when you stop cranking?
Is the red security light in with the clock on solid when you try to start the car?
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 139
From: Michigan
I did a little snooping and learned that our keys have a magical chip embedded within them called the IVIS (Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System) . I'm going to guess it's an inductive magnet of some sort. The ignition switch has an IMMU which detects the key and either allows the engine to start, causes a no-start condition, or in some extreme cases causes a cow in a small village outside of Sweden to explode. (Vehicles equipped with the VQ35 engine had a recall campaign to correct this condition, but as always the VQ30's were left out in the cold, just like the cow.)
I've never paid attention but I will start looking more closely as I start the engine -- a tip-off to this would be if the red security LED flashes during the "no start" condition until it decides to start.
Here are my two tests:
1) Going to use my extra key for a while and see if that makes a difference. Maybe one of the many times I dropped my car keys, the key landed JUST right and harmed the magnet. I remember in 2nd grade science class learning that a magnet can be demagnetized by hitting it with a hammer or forcing it to watch the Perry Como Himalayan Christmas Special -- this is because each action is equally unpleasant.
I've never paid attention but I will start looking more closely as I start the engine -- a tip-off to this would be if the red security LED flashes during the "no start" condition until it decides to start.
Here are my two tests:
1) Going to use my extra key for a while and see if that makes a difference. Maybe one of the many times I dropped my car keys, the key landed JUST right and harmed the magnet. I remember in 2nd grade science class learning that a magnet can be demagnetized by hitting it with a hammer or forcing it to watch the Perry Como Himalayan Christmas Special -- this is because each action is equally unpleasant.
If I could give you gold stars I would
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