Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Hello,

I received my Eibach springs, GR2 struts, strut mounts and strut boots.

I never replaced springs or struts before, and I did lot of reading on how to replace them myself. I feel pretty confident I can do this myself, and I am planning on doing the job next week end in order to save a few hundred $.

- How many hours will it take +/- for all four corners? I have air tools to speed up the compression process.

- Also, on the housecor's HOW TO on replacing struts/springs http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html he says in step 11 for the rear that it may be necessary to re-compress the springs to make sure it lines up correctly. Is there a trick to avoid having to re-compress the rear spring?

- Does anyone have any tips or advice to make sure everything goes smoothly?

Thanks,

spock

iTrader: (5)

Should take 3-4 hours. The first one took me 1.5 hours and the other 3 about 2 hours.
For the rears remember where the bottom bolt hole is in relation to the mount. Position the new shock the same and it should line up.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Get out the 10 and 12mm sockets for the rear. You'll need to take out all the bolts behind the rear seats to yank out the cover over the mounts. It's just easier that way.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

I have to respectfully disagree. 1/4 ratchet with long extension will work quickly and effectively. Your method is a waste of time and energy.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

But what if, when I release the spring before putting it back on the car, the top two studs aren't lined up with the 2 holes? Will I have to re-compress the spring and line it up, the release the spring?

Stason

+1

If you have air-tools but it's your first time, I am guessing it would take you 3-4 hours total MAX. The spring compressing is the most time-consuming step in the whole procedure. Not hard.

Stason

You can still turn the top plate with the studs if you don't fully tighten the middle bolt. Tighten it after you match the holes.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks for the tip. I'll make sure i tighten it after it's lined up then.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

BTW, the stealership quoted 5hrs to do the job @ 89/hr... And you guys say it took u 4hrs...

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

+2


4 hours sounds about right if you're putting along and double checking as you go to ensure you're doing everything properly.

Make sure you lubricate all the adjoining parts, bearing, etc.

I used a high quality wheelbearing/chassis lube on most parts, and di-electric grease on all exposed parts.

036mtmax

iTrader: (11)

did my fronts in an hour and rears were a pita because i dropped one of the bolts where the strut bolts up and then had a little problem matching the holes on the passenger rear so that took about an hour and a half for the rears...funny thing is all data quotes 1.5 each side for fronts and 1.0 each for the rears imo it should be the other way around.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Yeah the rears are much easier as long as you don't try to remove the upper plates. Just use the universal and an extension as mentioned, and the rears can be done way faster than the front.

essential1

iTrader: (5)

This is true. The right tools make it super easy. The last time I did all 4 struts/springs on a maxima, it took about 2 hours. That's with an air compressor and includes cutting a couple coils off all 4 corners.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Idk how you got to that far bolt lol

MAXXED_816

iTrader: (5)

The far bolt is a PITA for sure. Took myself about 6 hours total, and thats for a first time suspension installer as well as having to run down to sears after getting the fronts done to get a swivel socket for the rears.

zzmmrx0xmzz

It took my 6 hours when I did it because I didn't know what I was doing. As what others said, the spring compressor is what takes up most of your time

Flynnsmax

It took people 6 hours for some of you guys to do struts. Holy ****. Took me 2 hours **** was easy.

8000watts

I'd ratchet use a deep wall socket for the rear. An extension means nothing if it's a short socket. (changed my springs 3 weeks ago)

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Taking care to form your sentences correctly not only helps with the coherence of your thoughts, it also adds credibility to your words. I'm not sure what point you're trying to make here. I used a 1/4" ratchet with an extension and a standard socket. Deep socket wasn't necessary.

8000watts

It's this damn swype on my phone. I was meaning to just point out that my regular sized socket, wasn't deep enough to reach the nut without hitting the stem. I then noted that it was done 3 weeks ago, only to ensure you that it was still fresh in my mind.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Takes me about 2 hours total for all 4.

But then again...I do it fairly often

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Gotcha. Don't you hate technology sometimes? I guess it's relative to the brand of tools you are using. My standard socket was deep enough. Good point, though. Some may not be able to grab the nut without the deep socket.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

That's what she said.

8000watts

Agreed. Technology & all.

Stason

Usually you wouldn't need a deeper socket UNLESS you are installing coilovers, as those tend to have longer stems.

spock

iTrader: (5)

I used deep a socket on the rears as well. Do not need to remove any other parts. Once your in there, you'll figure out the best tools to use. Having an abundance of different sockets, extensions, swivels, etc. is a huge help. I did not, however, use a swivel for the rear nuts. 3/8" ratchet and a combination of deep socket, reg. socket and short & long extensions did the trick. I was even able to use my 3/8" torque wrench in there with the above mentioned tools.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

OK so last night after work I decided to get this thing done. I wanted to do all 4 corners, but only had time to do the front. I’ll do the back tonight. It took me about 3 hours (that’s including gathering tools and cleaning everything when I was done).

Everything was pretty smooth. The most time consuming part was [compressing the old spring – removing the old spring from the strut - decompressing the old spring – compressing the new spring – installing the new spring on the strut – decompressing the new spring] X 2, with a wrench… I had an impact gun, but the socket was not long enough, so I had to do everything with a wrench… what a PITA

I just had 3 problems:

1) While compressing the 1st spring, one of the spring compressors slid so instead of having both compressors at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock, they ended up at 12 and 3… so I had to start over.

2) The moog strut boot and bump stop I bought at advance auto parts did not fit in the strut tower upper plate... I’m pretty pissed about that, they cost me $54 … The old bump stops were still in good shape so I was able to re-use them, and put the new sleeve around the old bump stop.

3) While installing the new assembly on the driver side, I couldn’t push up the lower control arm back into position to be able to put the two bolts in the holes. The problem was that the axle came out of its slot. When I understood that about 10 minutes later, I just rotated the wheel, was able to push the axle back in, and the holes at the bottom of the strut lined up very easily.

The old struts were shot. I was able to compress the rod very easily. On one of them, the rod didn’t even come back up, and the other one took forever.

Just with the front done, the difference is amazing! No more clunking noises, the front end grip is so much better during hard cornering, body roll was greatly reduced, and no more nose diving while braking

There is a bump on the road to my house where I always had to slow down <15mph otherwise the front would bottom out. I took it this morning at 40mph, and it felt like a brand new car, well at least the front end…

I can’t wait to do the rear tonight.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

EXACTLY the reason I recommend nothing but OEM.

Glad it all worked out

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

^^ I had read so many good things about MOOG on the org... maybe Advance Auto Parts messed up?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Moog mounts yes, not boots/bumpstops.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Well at least I was able to use the sleeves, the old ones were shredded. But that's some expensive sleeves...

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

5th gen OEM boots are $95 shipped for all 4. Worth the hassle.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Ouch no impact gun SUCKS for strut work. That explains 3 hours for the fronts.

Hope you can get that fixed for the rears, compressing springs without air is just unsafe and SLOOOW.

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

To be honest when installing lowering springs I don't compress them, they are usually shorter so I'm just able to push them down with the top hat and mount and just put the middle nut on that way for the rears I can keep removing the nut and shifting the mount easily till its in the right spot. And whoever is about to say this is a "special" case I did this method on both my maxima and my jetta on all 4 corners of each car and it worked and cut out all that time spent for compressing the new springs.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Damn that's good took me like 6hrs no air tools, just straight ratcheting it away but to a break here and there, but with air tools should be 4 hrs or less....

bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

I agree didn't take mine out

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Job done, here are some pictures...

BEFORE, with the SUV looks...



AFTER:





The rear was much easier than the front. It took me about 2 hours. Most of that time was spent trying to loosen the 2 bolts holding the bottom of the struts. It took A LOT of PB Blaster to get them out.

I like the looks, and love the handling.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Agree. I don't even compress OEM springs when I'm disassembling the OEM assembly. Lay it on the ground, foot on the strut to hold it in place, impact gun on the top nut. The parts fly only about a foot. It's fairly controlled and saves a LOT of time.

Oh - for the rears - the two mounting posts should be parallel with the mounting hole at the bottom of the strut. No need for trial and error

Same here too - I can get in there with a 3/8" socket and a 7" extension juust fine.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Nice work. You sir need to invest in a Snap-on cordless impact gun

(I use air but the compressor and tools are a bigger investment than just the cordless gun)

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

^^ I was doing this at the shop, where I work. The problem is that I was using a cheap Sears impact gun trying to remove that lower bolt.

After about 30/40 minutes spraying the $hit out of the bolt, and trying to loosen it with with the cheap impact gun, and with a breaker bar, I used a shop impact gun that obviously has a lot more punch, because the bolt came right off... The job would have taken me only 1hr 15 minutes if I used the good impact gun to begin with... oh well, u live and u learn...