Saadkhan07

Guys,

I completed my LED conversion for the rear lights. Tails, signal, number plate and reverse are all, LED.

However, on my dash the bulb out light is still coming on, however both brake lights are operating perfectly

MizzMaxine

iTrader: (4)

Resistors

Saadkhan07

They are in as well, i forgot to add that. Have 4 of them, 2 on signal and 2 on brake

03VQMAX

iTrader: (46)

Whats the wattage and ohms on the resistors? That's usually the problem like MizzMaxine said.

Saadkhan07

6 ohm 50w resistors

03VQMAX

iTrader: (46)

Yea, I've tried that before and still had the bulb out warning, so I just left the brake lights alone.

ImStricken

you need higher resisters.

seastone14

Will someone please explain how to properly wire the brake light bulbs so that i can stop getting the burnt out bulb warning light. I wasn't expecting to need more than one resistor but since there are 2 circuits it seems as though I may be wrong. It appears that both the brake light and the running light circuits will need their own resistors. If there is a way to use one resistor solely on the ground to eliminate this problem please let me know how to do it.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Buy led bulbs made for brake and turn signal blinking because youll need to get a different flasher relay for the leds also i been down this road its cheaper in the end to get the bulbs ment for it. Putco brake leds....

seastone14

Are you saying that the new flasher relay will eliminate the need for resistors with the led brake lights and led turn signals?

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

for the flashers yes.brake light NO!

seastone14

Please provide a link to the brake light bulbs you used. Also, is there a way to wire the resistors to resolve the issue? Do you know if i need an additional resistor?

Tyutyunnik

iTrader: (1)

Slapping on resistors without doing any calculations wont help you. You need to figure out the resistance/load of the stock bulb, and then look at how far off the LED is, and then try to match the two as close as possible using a proper load resistor. If the LED bulb and the resistor isn't consuming enough power then it will set off the light.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

This. But Don't just use a resistor, that's wrong. Stuff will burn.

You need one with a heat sync/cooling fins. They get hotter than your regular bulb does. If you've ever grabbed a hot bulb after it's been on you'll know how hot this is.

Also even with a heat sync/cooling fins you still need to remember how hot it gets when you are installing it, where you put it, what's close to it, etc.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Resize your sig.

LED brake/Tail lights are dumb. They're a HUGE PITA and are 9/10 not as bright as stock bulbs.

I feel the same way about LED signals. The stock bulbs are brighter than almost any Plug and Play LED you can buy for this car. So why would you go throught the hassle of all this for WORSE looking lights? Makes no sense.

seastone14

the 6 ohm 50 watt resistors from superbrightleds have cooling fins and are adequately sized for this particular job. The 68 led smd bulbs I just purchased are slightly brighter than stock, and with the last link I posted, will become plug and play. For <$100 I am replacing all of the conventional bulbs on my car with leds to give the 5.5 the update it truly deserved in 2002 when shortly after the g35 got all of its leds. The hassle with the brake lights is caused by our brake light bulb having 2 circuits, one for the brake light, and the other for the running light. A resistor can only generate resistance for one of those circuits and you will therefore get a warning when the bulb uses the other circuit. I will therefore be using the adapter in the last link so that when either circuit is used there is the correct amount of resistance. Brake Light solved, Turn signals will require the new blinker module. Job done. Total Cost $50

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

$58 set of red Putco brake light led plug n play and have the 3 x blink before solid on like the newer cars do

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

http://www.putco.com/products.cfm?ac...9-2eec06992b06

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Keeping stock bulbs, which are brighter than your expensive projects = $~0~

When LED tailights come from the factory they use a LED reflector for each LED and are set up miles different.

These plug and play LEDs try to use your stock Incandecent reflectors, or NO reflectors to get the same or better output. It just doesn't work 9/10.

Again, not worth the huge hassle. And P.S> the LED bulbs that ARE as bright will burn out just as fast as Incandecents will due to much higher voltages.

fishtale6spd

iTrader: (13)

But still that three flash thing would be sweet to have

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

Its not worth the trouble. Above post is correct, without a fan the amount of heat produced is impossible to manage. Not worth the time/effort/money.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Are you talking about sequential signals, like the Mustangs have?

If so those aren't LED's (the brand new ones are). And that would never work in 5th gen Maxima tailights.

fishtale6spd

iTrader: (13)

No like new crotch rockets have three blinks then solid. That's what those are

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

ooooh I see. Sounds like it might be seen as a strobe light/emerg light to me.

Either way I say full LED retro on tails or nothing.

Tyutyunnik

iTrader: (1)

Fire trucks have that too and it looks awesome but I doubt anything else sold to the public would look as good.

seastone14

Adapters didn't work. New incandescent bulbs for the brake lights :/ .... Turn signals look and work great though.

defiance

iTrader: (1)

How about for the interior of the 5th gen ? The gauge cluster, any ideas to LED those out ?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I don't think anyone has ever done it.