Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

I thought I would start my own thread so I can add, change, and update without hi-jacking others.

Anyway, I've been in the forum few months now. Since then I've done retrofit on 00-01 OEM headlights with Mini H1 projectors. You can see the build process on this link http://forums.maxima.org/8115501-post133.html

I've also started to retro my fog light with Valeo D1S. http://forums.maxima.org/8182795-post144.html

I'll be using this thread now for future update.

Since my Mini H1 retro is sold, I get to work on the new project. 02-03 OEM retrofit. I've always wanted to retro RX330 projector since when modded properly, it is as good as S2K projector with a lot less money. I replaced the OEM shield with custom curved shield to give it width and sharp cut off with clear lens. I also thinking about quad retro, but still undecided with the 2nd projector. Currently, I'm thinking modded TL/E46 Bi-X.

RX330 fully modded (35 feet)


Projector fitting on the relfector




So far, this is as far back I could do without completly destroying the reflector and removing the left/ right adjustment screw. If I go deeper, I need to remove the adjustment screw since it is blocking the projector, not really liking it. I think E46 Bi-X is a better fit in there since I can mount it a little deeper than RXs. The problem is more trimming on the housing for the selenoid to clear.





So, it looks like the the RX would be in the high beam spot since it is easier and it fits better IMO.

Comments and sugesstiona are always welcome.

locknuts27

iTrader: (2)

That looks great!

So you are swapping the projector to the high beam side? and high beam to the low beam side?

Would you be willing to do mods for others?

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

Yes, The RX will be on the high beam spot and and E46 is in low beam. The RX will be on separate on/off switch, the E46 is the daily driver light since it Bi-X already. At least that's the plan for now.....

locknuts27

iTrader: (2)

Any modifications to the wiring to do the swap?

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

It will be custom anyway. The OEM wiring will power the E46 BX but I need to tap OEM high beam wire to activate the BiX. The RX will be powered using separate relay harness and stand alone switch. Not sure how it all goes, but we'll figure it out when we get there I guess.....

locknuts27

iTrader: (2)

Seems like you have it figured out... Great work man!

From the picture, the output looks pretty awesome!

burnt_3.5

You obviously have put a good amount of tedious work into this project. It looks great! I look forward to seeing the finished product installed!

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Don't put the RX's in the high beam spot. E46's are crap IMHO.

The projector sits in there just fine.

Mr. Blue Sky

iTrader: (1)

if you want a bixenon that will fit better into the lowbeam spot, why not try an fx35R from the Retrofit Source, or just a stock fx35. It is a pretty compact OEM bixenon projector.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

I second FX35's. I've got some with FX-R clear lenses and they're sweet. Don't mind that the cutoff isn't straight, I was playing with the shield and did't set it back correctly:

8ft away:


25ft away with straight cutoff after the correction:

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Looks great soo far

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Need to get one that sits closer to flush, otherwise it looks out of place IMHO.

Glad to see this thread, you're doing some great work there my man

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

I hear you all and I agree. I had great experience on FX35 before, maybe I'll look into that some more. I was also afraid of the weight.

I'll snap few pictures of E46 beam pattern tonight.

Chris,
Why did you think that E46 isn't very good. This is the Bi-X.

Thanks guys

The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

More pictures please!! I have FX projectors and still reading up on how to retro them...

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

Here is the FX35 mounted on my old Accord. Lots of cutting, made the reflector really weak. I'm using the projector as structural bridge using those 4 metal strap mounting, this worked good. The headlight is solid no rattle, keeps the allignment checked. Worked good for 8 months till I sold the car with it.



Here is the output with Mori 50W ballast and 85122+


IMO, FX35 with clear lens still have too much blue band. Kinda distracting when you go high speed lane changing on the highway. I ended up using stock lens intead, worked alot better for my eyes. RX330 has thinner color band which is not so much of distraction. Just my 2 cents, everyone is different.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

From what I've seen, they're rather weak. We'll see when you post output pics.

I likes the blue! Your eyes must be really sensitive for the blue to distract you. I just love that flicker and can't roll with stock lenses lol The RX330's look to be perfect for you then.

tcaughey

iTrader: (6)

^^ Love that. That output looks identical to the output of my FX-R projectors w/ clear lens. Once you go retro, you'll never go back to crappy halogen again.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Yeah, FX-R's are pretty nice. They have less foreground but a stronger beam. These FX35's are amazing compared to the old J30's. I did get some decent halogen CTS's that were better than the J30's but they don't compare to the FX's.

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

This thread is filled with win. MSU is the projector + shroud out too far to put the lens back on or is it just not far enough back for your satisfaction?

I was planning to do this with the fxr 2.0s but recent tranny issues poor.

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

It's about 3/4" clear off the lens. I wanted to sit far back for another 1/4-3/8". It just doesn't look right if it stick out too far. The problem is RXs flanges are to wide it hit the left/right screw adjustment. Smaller flange projector like E46 fit better in there without repositioning the screw adjustment. If I have to remove the adjustment screw, I'd probably stick TL in there since It will be a mess anyway. Still looking for better option, didn't really want to go for FX35 since I have too many projectors laying around already.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Go FX and give me your extra projectors?

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

[quote=ChrisMan287;8195955]From what I've seen, they're rather weak. We'll see when you post output pics.


Ok Chris, here is
E46 with clear lens and shield all the way to the back ( there is adjustment screw to move the sheild in/out). This is the sharpest I can get with stock shield adjustment.


For comparison, here is TL with clear lens, also with sharpest cut off I can get.





All proejctors use the same bulb, ballast, and about the same distance (35 feet).

In term of cut off sharpness, intensity, and width, I would agree that FX low beam owns E46. E46 seems to have more foreground lighting compared to both TL and RX (or even with FX), which is the disadvantage I think. You can also see that TL low beam has most intensity of all the 3, the high beam is pretty good also.

So, I'm not sure still. TL is just too big in there, FX is awesome but it's too blue for me.

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

What's wrong with the tranny?

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

You're absolutely right. I told ya E46's were crap lol I wish you could use God's gift to the bi-xenon world, the TL's but they're way go big. If you don't like the way those RX330's sit, go with FX35's with stock lenses. Knowing you, you could probably tweak the shields somewhat to get some more sharpness and they probably won't have too much color which is perfect for you.

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

Wouldnt shift into reverse, lost first and second. Swapping in a new one now.

Maximagwill

For those who want to have projector with halo without cuting and glueing parts, i found a store for this. http://www.maximaheadlight.com/Custo...dlights/18244/#.

And the're built for D2R bulb, so if you have stock HID's, it's bolt on.

Guillaume

The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

It looks like the same one people sell on ebay...

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

Looks pretty good. How's it the output compared to pictures above. Also, it uses D2R on projector low beam? Why?

Maximagwill

I check on ebay a long time ago and they all use H3 and H1 bulbs, it doesn't fit with Max with OEM HID's.

Maximagwill

The pic is 100% accurate, you can see the D2R and HB3 mark on the lense. My Max is using D2R light bulb and i'm gonna buy those headlights. Cause i've spend a lot of time checking on ebay and all over the web, and they're the most usefull projector replacement headlights.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

I bet they still suck. For that $350 you could have a much better set up.

max2000man

Nice work MSU2000 - let me know when you are ready to upgrade your fogs so I can buy your current retro projector fogs - to match the new H1 Retro headlights.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Ummm maybe I'm wrong but I don't think there's ANY projectors that use D2R bulbs.....

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

Meh D2R/D2S, its probably made for a D2S but they just moved the notch over so they make it all 'oem replacement' and whatever? Therefore you could reuse the old bulb and what not? Anyway..back to the topic, these look great, I found it difficult to remove the reflector from the housing without breaking it MSU. Did you use a blow dryer or something to soften the plastic for the adjuster? That was the best advice anyone could give me for removing that piece safely.

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

I didn't use any heat at all to remove the reflector.There is left and right adjustment screw and up and down. You need to get the left/right adjusment screw completly out of the reflector then aim the headlight down using the up and down screw all the way down. Now, since the reflector is all the way down, you have some room up top to get your hand in there to yank the ball socket joint out. Do not grab the reflector on the outside you will mangle it. You need to grab it as close as possible to the ball socket joint. This socket joint is snap fit, so it will come out with the right amount of force. Be patience, take your time. I do not recommend heating anything, since it will change the plastic mechanical proprety that you may not be able to put together nicely. Now when everything is out, I usually put a a little bit of silicone grease around the ball and socket, next time you need to pull it again it will come off easy. I do the same ont he headlight bottom axle snap also. I'll snape few picture tomorrow, I think it will help.

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

Update: 9/9/11

Ok, everytime I get frustated working on the headlight, I go work on Fog lights. Fog lights are much nicer to work on.

Cut the other half open, this time was alot more precise since I learned where and what to cut from the other side. I just used hack saw and cleaned it up with dremmel.



Trimmed the front half of the projector and fit it the fog housing. I was happy with the fit, snug fit and can be rotated slightly for adjusting the cut off later on.



Found out that the projector still have too much foreground, so time for second iteration of the foreground limiter. I used .010" aluminum/Steel sheet from Home Depot/Ace Hardware. Used a sharp shrears to cut the profile.

Don't get too crazy trying to make it flat. Wrap a flat block or table with sand paper and run the shield back and forth on the sand paper to get the edge flat.


Top shield is the foreground limiter, basicall limit the light pool in front of the car, so that your eyes can focus in light futher up front.

Jrod2593

yo wassup man.. i mean how would u bake the headlights like at wat degree and stuff to...like open up the headlight and what glue would u use to put it back on

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

There is no guideline for exact recipe. Every headlights is different and different oven produces different heat. Convetional oven works best in my experience, I would suggest pre heat oven at 250 F for 5 minute, shut it off, put the headlight in for 5 minutes, take it out and see if you can pry the edge, if it doesn't budge DON"T force it, re-heat and put it back in for another 5 minutes and see how it goes from there. It's trial and error really, I've baked the same headlights twice and they required different minutes. Sometimes, you don't need oven, a good heat gun, steady hand, and lots of patience are sometimes enough.

I reused the same glue.....

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

You don't add any extra butyl? I always do.

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

Depend, if it's OEM housing, I usually didn't. eBay housing put a little more. I used to add Butyl, but I found that if it gets too much, it was hard to get the seams to close well. Since then, I'd rather have a less seams gap then I finished it off with 1/16" silicone bead all around. I found this to be very effective plus next time you need to open it, you can just slice the silicone open then use heat gun instead of oven. I used high temp silicone up to 500 f