http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

yeah the swirl valves are in the lower manifold. however, they are controlled by the VIAS module the power rod removal/ bop gets rid of. for now i zip tied it to permanently open, i figured some loss of low end is better than the restrictions top end... no idea tho

 

Happy Birthday!!!

Edit: McSteve beat me to it.

 

Do you make these in aluminum with swaged ends??????

 

How were you able to twist it open? I've read a couple of threads about the flimsy metal cup breaking loose from the power rod causing it not to rotate when the vias activates.

 

Thanks boys I have that link but I hate it, I want the downloadable PDF one so I can peruse it properly. In either case I panned through the EC section and couldn't get a clear answer on what the 3rd one is for, seems I'll have to get off my azz and look tomorrow.


Oh and McSteve, I think you're confused on the whole purpose of removing the VI system.

The system works very well, but the issue is it requires a physical valve, butterfly and rod to be present in the intake stream at all times, so even when it's wide open, the valve is a restriction in the intake stream which needless to say is unwanted.
The purpose of disabling this system is so you can REMOVE that valving and allow the full potential of intake air through the runners.

Leaving it in there and just cranking it open will cause nothing but a decrease in power because you lose the benefits of it and keep all the negatives.

 

no i realize that.

The power rod and spring valves are two different things.

The power rod is the plastic part connected to the vias cup. I installed a VIAS bop so I can use cruise control with the PFTB. I found out btw that my vias cup was broken too...
I removed the long plastic power rod to increase the air flow in the UPPER intake manifold.

In the LOWER intake manifold are the swirl valves. They are operated by a vacuum hose going to the VIAS solenoid. Since i removed the VIAS solenoid I was worried that the valves in the LIM are gonna by stuck closed the entire time. So with some finicky zip tie action I pulled the lever open in the LIM.

Now I need to know something tho. When the lever is pulled, does it close or open the valves in the LIM? I feel a loss of torque, but don't know whether I have stuck the lower valves in the open or closed position..

 

Sorry, no I don't

 

I have the 2003 FSM as a PDF, but as separate PDF files for each section. It's a total PITA to browse when it jumps files and can't go backwards.

 

So, combine the files. I'm sure you have Acrobat. Did you forget the simple things to remember more complex issues?

 

There are all kinds of PDF merging utilities out there, and they seem to work just fine. But after the files are merged, the cross-references no longer function.

 

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
The swirl control valve control solenoid valve responds to signals
from the ECM. When the ECM sends an ON (ground) signal, the solenoid valve is bypassed to apply intake manifold vacuum to the swirl control valve actuator. This operation closes the swirl control valve. When the ECM sends an OFF signal, the vacuum signal is cut and the swirl control valve opens.

this means that with the hose disconnected it should always be open right?

 

Sounds correct.

And in response to your other question about them being open or closed, you've got them open if you have a loss of torque.

 

So why doesn't someone clean one of these Apexi's and observe closely if there is adverse affect on the the element!!!!!!!

 

I have a copy on cd with an index, I also have a copy on my hard drive with an index. The phat20 site was better than the nicoclub site when it was up and running.

 

That's the purpose of the whole VIAS/Swirl Valve system, improved low/mid-range torque! I always wonder why people delete the VIAS, which works well for real world driving. To get a few more ponies at WOT/high RPM's???

 

Pezz, I feel the EXACT same way about it as you do, mine is untouched.



Now, I am home for a few mins!! Rochester, here's yours: http://www.freepdfdownload.net/2003-...ce-manual.html

And us 5th gen guys: http://www.freepdfdownload.net/2001-...ce-manual.html

 

And the 3rd Vacuum valve is for the Powersteering switch.

 

That's nice of you, Matt. The page exists, but the actual zip file doesn't.

No worries, though. I'll muddle through the next half year somehow.

 

yeah if you're planning on revving to 7500 regularly the top end gains might be worth it. especially when going FI or cams...

considering sparks made 50hp gain with a custom gutted IM

 

VIAS delete is apparently another matter of taste mod. Are the gains worth the drawbacks? My VQ30DE-K with 4AT and OD off can easily hit the rev limiter @67K RPM WFO at FTL speeds(with drag as a factor). All the restrictive stock intake/air-box/snorkel/VIAS is in place. So where's the BIG advantage?

 

"Sparks" made amazing HP gains with more than just a gutted IM. It was a complete custom designed/fabricated big plenum upper IM with tuned CAI inlet system, Bigger MAF/TB, and supporting mods. I.E. piggyback tuner, headers, 3" exhaust, etc. Which IMHO raises the bar way above a VIAS delete mod. As a matter of record "Sparks" always noted the 00VI as the BEST OEM IM design for our cars. Why mess with it?

 

I thought VIAS-delete was a simple 5.5 mod (I've done it), whereas you 5.0 genners have something called a "power-rod" that you remove? And that the smaller displacement engine has a VIAS design prone to failure from a cracked part... yes? no? I'm not real conversant with the 3.0L engine.

Someone clarify, please. (Tuner)

 

Rochester, I stumbled across a site with a free D/L of the 2003 Max FSM. However, it was such a convoluted search I couldn't post the link for some reason. So I D/L the manual for you, it's sitting on my hard drive, PM me with your E-Mail address and I can send it. FYI; It's a complete, virus free, zip archive 27.6Mb.

SOaB! I just found the site again, couldn't send the D/L link since it's secured. Go here and click download, it'll take you to the secured site, click download and your all set.
http://carsmanual.net/2003-Nissan-Ma...e-Manual.html#

 

Absolutely correct on all points. However there's a VERY effective fix for the 3.0 VIAS actuator problem, right on the .ORG. I did it and reaped the benefits. I suspect the VIAS probably doesn't affect 3.5L low end as much Since it's a larger displacement higher torque engine from the start.

 

Nice of you, Bob, but unnecessary. I'm selling the car next year after 10 years of thoroughly content ownership. Time to move on.

Anyway, that zip file has the same layout as my version of the FSM, where each section is its own PDF file. No worries, though. And thanks anyway.

 

Is that the JB Weld fix?

 

Yes.

 

I did the fix yesterday and i can't see the LIM actuator do anything. If I manually apply vacuum (sucking on the hose oh yeah) i can see the LIM switch move. Can anyone let me know how it is at idle and at what rpm it moves?

@Bob

I have a custom 3.5" CAI, BBMAF, PFTB, Intake Spacers Headers test pipe and a 3" exhaust tuning with the Emanage ultimate.....

I was just thinking gutted IM > non working vias.. and I still think that only half of my vias is working but need to confirm

 

I agree.

Half?

 

top, power rod half, i don't see any movement on the lever regulating the swirl valves... so somehow my vias solenoid doesn't send out vacuum out on that hose... but maybe it only does so under load and not in neutral when revving?

I guess i'll have to go through the FSM procedures....

 

That is weird. I would remove the power rod considering your current mod status though. A dead DEK VIAS is just like an A32 USDM IM, FTL.

 

Yes and it made a big difference in the way the car performs now. Even though my VIAS cup only had worn slightly roughly 15-20deg of play it was enough to prevent it from closing/opening the power rod completely. Giving a loss of bottom and top end power.

 

Oh well, it was good intentioned. Since as you stated the file doesn't exist anymore on the link you were given. You might want to keep the link to; http://carsmanual.net/ handy for your next car.

 

Makes sense since it's in-between both worlds, no you can't has all top end and no, you can't has bottom end either.

 

I need to get mine fixed. I've researched a couple of threads on it, I just need to figure out the procedures to do it. For example, do I need to remove the rod in order to re-glue the cup back on the rod, or can I do it with the rod still inside the intake?

 

It's beautifully explained here.

The cup doesn't attach to the rod. It'll be all clear when you look at the link.

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=21

 

Cool, thanks... I'll be reading up on that

 

Yup! And I drove the car for a while thinking it had *****, before reading about the fix, doing it, and the BIG WOW afterwards.

 

It's actually a pretty simple fix. My advice, definitely get new screws/hardware before hand. I used Allen heads which made re-installation SO much easier, using a ball end Allen wrench vs. Phillips head screw driver. To remove the Junk OEM screws get a Phillips head that fits perfectly, clamp a Vice-Grip to the shaft and apply FIRM downward pressure on the screw using the Vice-Grip to turn the screw. Or the OEM screw-heads will strip before you can say "AW $#!+". Use the original 24hr cure JBWeld. And label all the hoses well. I used masking tape which fell off 1 hose and left me puzzled for a while, since it wasn't shown in the FSM.

 

I went out to the car and grabbed a screwdriver to test how tight the screws are on, and wow, they're tight. Any recommendations on removing them?