Ok, I dont know why the thread was closed, but I still had a few points to discuss. I was just curious because ive seen plenty of people run no filter, but I do have a cone and a fair amount of debreed does weed its way underneath the hood. However, have you guys ever seen a like foam filter sock? I think that this would allow much more breathability and still keep out unwanted ish. Here's the sock. I got the idea off the bimmer forums . From mike borough's build. It looked like all he was running was these socks.

http://itgfilters.net/ITG-Filters-Me...D.qscstrfrnt03

It wont fit my specific application, but I asked if they could custom make me one with a 6" diameter. Ill let you guys know how that goes.

 

And to whomever said I should get a dryflow filter, I ordered an AFE Pro Dry S, I was just curious as to if people have run the stack w/o a filter.

 

Also, If Rochester see's this, what is the pipe in your intake setup in your sig that comes right before the maf? With the long metal tube extending from it? Thx

 

Yeah, I see you.

Your thread got locked because your question was answered very definitively... use an air filter. Seriously, use an air filter.

The pipe you're referring to is the mid-pipe in my Short-Ram Intake configuration. It came as part of the Frankencar kit, which is a company long gone under about 4 years now.



Left-2-Right from the UIM, the parts go like this:

1. Throttle Body
2. Coupler
3. Mid-pipe
4. Coupler
5. MAF Housing
6. Adapter Plate
7. Coupler
8. Adapter Plate
9. Pop-Charger

You can purchase a complete SRI set-up from BERK for an ungodly amount of money; (maybe, maybe not... IDK if they're still selling them.) Or you could purchase an equally excellent mid-pipe from knight_yyz here on the Org, piecing together the rest of the parts. You could also buy a JWT kit. Or a Weapon-R Kit (but don't ). I'm sure there are others. You could also create your own SRI and keep the resonator in the mix.

Lots of options. Search and read, OP.

Oh, and one last thing... your 3.0 intake configuration has more than just the VC breather tube connected to it. Keep that in mind when putting things together. It's kind of important.

 

Run a filter. IBTL, again.

 

What you reference is still a FILTER. If you are looking to put that "sock" just on the end of a pipe (better make sure it's after your MAF!) there will be NO gain or benifits over what is already out there. Even the site you reference indicates this "sock" is only for use in setups where other filters are too large and therefore not an option. Whatever that looks like.

Rochester's addressed this already. Lots of filters/setups out there. If you are looking for a SRI, then a setup that includes a bellmouth I believe has been determined as the most efficient and benificial for performance and responsiveness.

BTW, the title? Really? Nothing you have mentioned or talked about has been anything close to a velocity stack. VERY different animal my friend!

IBTL!

 

true

 

Maybe true of the 3.5 but not on his 3.0, the 3.0 prefers a longer intake pipe.

Actually he mentione he HAS a velocity stack, hence the comment about needin a 6" 'sock' for his stack ummm, yah, I know what John is thinking after reading that LMAO

Either way certainly not the topic of the thread, so a poor title choice.

IBTL

 

I agree I had an injen intake on my 97 Maxima with the long piping all the way down to the radiator......it performed very well.

 

Whatever intake setup you go with, at least get the Apexi filter/pop charger. I use one, and so does Rochester. One of the highest flowing, best filtering filter on the market today. It has an integrated velocity stack/bellmouth, and it's a dry flow to there's no worries about getting oil on your maf.

 

^^^
worm-clamps

 

I'm not a fan of them.

 

What is "IBTL".. and it's a "Flow Stack" sorry. Thanks for the info. I think im just going to run the AFE filter on the flow stack and that'll do me until my later plans are initiated ;]. Thx all

 

I have a 6" ID on my custom set-up. Whats the big deal? Get a v-stack from BPi, and a filter (R1227 from S&B Filters) and some tubing from www.siliconeintakes.com.

 

If you are still contemplating which intake setup/filter you want to run, at least get an Apexi panel filter to replace the stock paper one. As with their cone filters, it is also a dry flow so there's no oil to worry about getting on your maf sensor. It's also roughly half the cost of a K&N panel filter, and flows better air and filters better. You can run that until you decide on what intake to go with.

 

Good advice for the GAB'ers.

It's forum slang for something you're increasingly familiar with.

 

GAB FT 9whp!!!!11111one

 

If you want foam use greddy airinx filter the big one...My dyno butt felt a big diffrence in low end power over the dryflow filter. Intake sounds more aggressive to with the greddy airinx

 

Well done sir.

^ Well sir, there's the contradiction of the day.

 

I don't see how it's a contradiction. An Apexi filter will filter better and flow more air than a comparable K&N

 

I <3 my K&N.

 

That looks like one of those crown air-fresheners that were popular in the 80's for the dashboards of crappy, inner-city Caddy's. Good Lord, man, you have that thing on your car? Seriously?

Chrome-plated plastic with a foam filter.

 

I remember those! They stuck around for a little while up to the late 90's if I remember correctly.

 

I think Clashez should add "Crown Air Freshener" to his sig. It would explain a lot, actually.

 

LOL, just the part saying it flows more AND filters more. It is just a contradiction, the basic properties of filtration say Higher filtration/denser material = less flow, and vise-versa.

If comparing two different types of filter material or shape, then I can see that. That's the main reason I don't like K&N, because it's pretty much impossible to gain Maximum HP without sacrificing filtering capabilites. You're letting more air in, then you're also letting everything else in with it.

 

LOL mine isn't chrome it's black and filter is yellow, I have the injen cai so you don't see it . It's top of the line filtration

 

Thats to usdm for me looks like it would go good with one of those cars. that have tables in it and carpet dasboard ...what they call that style again

 

Well.....I ordered an intake kit from Kinight xyz...and it included the AEM dry filter....I had no problems...but people were talking how much better Apexi was...so I ordered one.....tried it....I;m probably going to get FLACK from this BUT I felt more pull in the top end from the AEM filter...and it was LOUDER as well.....so I removed the Apexi and put the AEM filter back...in the future I'm going with a velocity stack, AEM filter and 3.5" tubing with LRMAF...like sparks did. My personal opinion is AEM is better...but whatever....I have no dyno or anything...just butt dyno and looking at how fast the RPM needle was approaching 6000!!

 

But what if the "more air in" scenario is created due to surface area? I guess it would still be letting more crap in as well, but you would not have a decrease in air flow because you have a larger surface area. But you'd also be filtering the same amount of crap, whatever number they use. right?

IDK it's saturday night I've had a couple glasses but the argument makes sense (from the business aspect). "We'll make a larger filter than the other companies it will flows more air in and filters more junk from your hitting your engine" the reality is if it were the same size as some of these other filters it would not perform nearly as well. Maybe size really does matter

 

If the filter is actually larger then yes, but he was comparing a stock sized filter, or 'drop in' replacement. This means the filters are the same size.

A larger filter is the only real way to increase air flow without sacrificing filtering ability, but that has inherent issues in itself regarding velocity, etc that I won't bother getting into.

 

You've tried them both and came to your own conclusions.

That's more than most of us do, so

And you bought Ray's intake kit, so

 

No dyno no care

 

 

I had one on my 5.5th Gen and it gave me 8hp over the stock setup (Dyno'd) but once headers and a catback were in the equation the Injen Intake couldn't flow fast enough and was bogging @ 5500-6000 rpm 3rd gear.....Found out that the tube was too long causing too much resistance during High flow situations.....

It might flow well but does it come with a 6" inlet? I'll stick to my JWT/R2C Hybrid setup.....I know it the Apexi is loud as hell I've always wondered it it was turbulence causing that?

I found my 6" JWT/R2C too pull pretty consistantly and rapidly move my needle as well......definitely over all the 3" filters I've tried!

 

With the Apexi filter, the bellmouth and filter are integrated together. I'm not sure if the base diameter of it is 6" or not, but it does neck down to 3". Apexi does call their Power Intake filter a dual funnel. The bellmouth on the bottom, and the cone on the top to smoothly direct airflow downwards.

As far as the Apexi being loud due to turbulence, that would be highly unlikely since it was designed for virtually turbulence-free airflow. I believe their loudness is caused by the synthetic filtering media that is used. It doesn't muffle as much sound as other types of filtering media, at least from my conclusions.

The lower body and inner cone from what I found out is made of a hard resin, and has two bolt hole patterns for an adaptor.

As far as what exactly the filtering media is made of, I haven't been able to find out anything exact. So far the only info I've been able to get doing some research is that it's made from a synthetic dry (no oil) density fibers. The material is thin enough to easily see light through it, yet it's dense enough to be really strong, and it has one of the highest filtering efficiencies on the market. I haven't been able to find out what the micron size it filters to, but in north Florida with all the sand and dust on the roads, the inside of my Berk intake tube is squeaky clean. I occasionally take a small soft bristle brush vacuum attachment to it to get the sand off of the filter.

 

Found a few detailed pics of the Apexi. Here is the rear, and you can clearly see the metal threads. Mine screwed down nice and snug, no fitment problems with the supplied Apexi adapter whatsoever.



In this pic you can see the top cone that tapers down to direct airflow downwards, and a better view of the mounting holes as well.

 

I just happened to notice that you still have the factory intake resonator in place. That also quiets down intake noise alot.

 

Can this filter be cleaned when it gets dirty, or is it a "throw away" like "stock" filters?

 

I do that too! Cottonwood seeds, small bugs, etc. I wish there were some way to get it back to that rich, dark red when new, but there's only one way to do that.

A few times I've also taped the shop-vac hose to the inlet of the filter, and blown it out in reverse for a second or two. (Not too long, or you'll burn out your vac motor.)

 

It can't be cleaned with soap and water like a k&n filter from my understanding. I remove mine, tap out the loose dirt, take a soft bristle vac brush to the outside, and as Rochester posted, blow on the back side with the vac exhaust. That method works best with the cone filters. You don't want to use compressed air since it can damage it.

Once the Apexi gets to the point where cleaning it just isn't doing the trick anymore, you throw it away and replace it. If you get a Berk intake with the Apexi option, you use an adaptor plate, all you would have to do is get the replacement filter.