5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Sigh, Velocity Stack Round 2

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-28-2011, 03:09 PM
  #121  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Been looking for a You Tube video as well on the repair but haven't found anything yet
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 03:17 PM
  #122  
"I'm just sayin'..."
iTrader: (6)
 
nelledge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,226
Originally Posted by T_Behr904
Been looking for a You Tube video as well on the repair but haven't found anything yet
It's not a video, but I don't see why it wouldn't be more than enough information to get this done. I'll be waiting for your repair post... Tonight.
nelledge is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 03:22 PM
  #123  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Originally Posted by nelledge
Well it won't be done tonite, but I should be able to get to it by the weekend.
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 03:24 PM
  #124  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Originally Posted by BobPezz
It's actually a pretty simple fix. My advice, definitely get new screws/hardware before hand. I used Allen heads which made re-installation SO much easier, using a ball end Allen wrench vs. Phillips head screw driver. To remove the Junk OEM screws get a Phillips head that fits perfectly, clamp a Vice-Grip to the shaft and apply FIRM downward pressure on the screw using the Vice-Grip to turn the screw. Or the OEM screw-heads will strip before you can say "AW $#!+". Use the original 24hr cure JBWeld. And label all the hoses well. I used masking tape which fell off 1 hose and left me puzzled for a while, since it wasn't shown in the FSM.
What thread pitch/size were the allen heads that you used?
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 03:40 PM
  #125  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
So I'm assuming from this picture that the shaft that the cup attaches to looks notched, so that the cup with the notched side will align up with the power rod correctly so it will open and close in it's proper rotation?



It's hard to tell in this pic since it looks like there is JB Weld inside the cup, so I can't see the rod that the cup goes on to.

T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 04:09 PM
  #126  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
BobPezz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 992
Originally Posted by T_Behr904
What thread pitch/size were the allen heads that you used?
M6x1.00 pitch 20mm long. See this MAXIMA.ORG thread for more info. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ias-stuff.html
BobPezz is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 04:23 PM
  #127  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Originally Posted by BobPezz
M6x1.00 pitch 20mm long. See this MAXIMA.ORG thread for more info. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ias-stuff.html
Thanks again for the info. I think I came across that particular thread before, but I disregarded it thinking it was for the VIAS 3.5 engine, not the 00VI for the De-K's.
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 04:41 PM
  #128  
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
McSteve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 730
The hole in my cup was stripped. But I could still only fit it over the nipple in one particular position which did not correspond to the pictures above.

It's possible that it wasn't welded on perfectly straight or that it somehow was made to fit over and then rotated a bit. So i aligned it as similar as possible with the pictures above and hope that the guy wasn't pulling on the lever in that last picture.

I also figured out my lower swirl valve problem. The valves only close between 15 and 50 degrees celsius water temp.. Below and above that they're constantly open. This is really stupid. So they are only closed for like 3 minutes at most during regular operation.

Hmmm now time to start tricksing with the eManage. I wonder whether I have any gains when I tell the ECU it's actually only 45 degrees warm.. Of course I have to adjust the fans to come on much earlier than too...


EDIT:
Lol, the water temp adjustment map is to adjust the injectors not the output of the water temp.....
So stupid. Since the valves are open the entire time anyways why are they even in there? Just to rob performance by restricting the flow...

Last edited by McSteve; 09-28-2011 at 04:44 PM.
McSteve is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 05:05 PM
  #129  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Originally Posted by McSteve
The hole in my cup was stripped. But I could still only fit it over the nipple in one particular position which did not correspond to the pictures above.

It's possible that it wasn't welded on perfectly straight or that it somehow was made to fit over and then rotated a bit. So i aligned it as similar as possible with the pictures above and hope that the guy wasn't pulling on the lever in that last picture.

I also figured out my lower swirl valve problem. The valves only close between 15 and 50 degrees celsius water temp.. Below and above that they're constantly open. This is really stupid. So they are only closed for like 3 minutes at most during regular operation.

Hmmm now time to start tricksing with the eManage. I wonder whether I have any gains when I tell the ECU it's actually only 45 degrees warm.. Of course I have to adjust the fans to come on much earlier than too...


EDIT:
Lol, the water temp adjustment map is to adjust the injectors not the output of the water temp.....
So stupid. Since the valves are open the entire time anyways why are they even in there? Just to rob performance by restricting the flow...
It sounds like the swirl valves were designed to operate like a carburetor choke for cold weather starts. But since the (water) temp operating range is between 15-50 degrees C (59-122 degrees F) it must be some sort of emissions gimmick.

Another question about the intake repair. Did you notice any audible difference from broken vs. fixed? When I had my old SHO V-6 5 speed, you could clearly hear a difference when the short runner butterfly valves opened up at 4,000 r.p.m.'s. Driving the Max, I notice no audible difference when the power rod is supposed to twist open around the 5K mark. I have a Berk/Apexi intake, so I would assume that I should be able to hear something going on.
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 07:18 PM
  #130  
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
TunerMaxima3000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Originally Posted by BobPezz
"Sparks" made amazing HP gains with more than just a gutted IM. It was a complete custom designed/fabricated big plenum upper IM with tuned CAI inlet system, Bigger MAF/TB, and supporting mods. I.E. piggyback tuner, headers, 3" exhaust, etc. Which IMHO raises the bar way above a VIAS delete mod. As a matter of record "Sparks" always noted the 00VI as the BEST OEM IM design for our cars. Why mess with it?
^This. The 00VI is no joke, it's too bad it's prone to breaking but easy enough to fix.

Originally Posted by Rochester
I thought VIAS-delete was a simple 5.5 mod (I've done it), whereas you 5.0 genners have something called a "power-rod" that you remove? And that the smaller displacement engine has a VIAS design prone to failure from a cracked part... yes? no? I'm not real conversant with the 3.0L engine.

Someone clarify, please. (Tuner)
Yes as stated already you're correct on all accounts.

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
A dead DEK VIAS is just like an A32 USDM IM, FTL.
I would have to respectfully disagree, although I get where you are going with that comment. But the USDM A32 IM is cast aluminum, compared to a moulded, smoother plastic 00VI IM. This lowers intake temps substantially, a HUGE benefit you 3.5 guys can very much attest to (spacers)
TunerMaxima3000 is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 07:45 PM
  #131  
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
MoncefA33's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,985
Originally Posted by McSteve

I also figured out my lower swirl valve problem. The valves only close between 15 and 50 degrees celsius water temp.. Below and above that they're constantly open. This is really stupid. So they are only closed for like 3 minutes at most during regular operation.
1) I removed mine.

2) eManage FTW.
MoncefA33 is offline  
Old 09-28-2011, 10:46 PM
  #132  
Senior Member
iTrader: (46)
 
schmellyfart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,827
Originally Posted by T_Behr904
I went out to the car and grabbed a screwdriver to test how tight the screws are on, and wow, they're tight. Any recommendations on removing them?
Vise grips.


McSteve, with your mods, I would just remove the power rod and swirl valves. I didn't feel any difference in normal driving after pulling the power rod, but the top end just screams - especially with an extended rev limiter.
schmellyfart is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 03:48 AM
  #133  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
BobPezz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 992
Originally Posted by T_Behr904
Thanks again for the info. I think I came across that particular thread before, but I disregarded it thinking it was for the VIAS 3.5 engine, not the 00VI for the De-K's.
I forgot to mention that you'll need METRIC Allen wrench(s) if using metric Allen screws. A no brainer, but something that might be overlooked.
BobPezz is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 08:28 AM
  #134  
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
McSteve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 730
Originally Posted by schmellyfart
Vise grips.


McSteve, with your mods, I would just remove the power rod and swirl valves. I didn't feel any difference in normal driving after pulling the power rod, but the top end just screams - especially with an extended rev limiter.
maybe i should just suck it up and get a vq35 IM and gut it.... since I got the spacers already and they can be had on eBay for like 180 bucks....


Did you weld the holes shut when removing the swirl valves? I hate taking the IM off....

Last edited by McSteve; 09-29-2011 at 08:30 AM.
McSteve is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 09:34 AM
  #135  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Originally Posted by McSteve
maybe i should just suck it up and get a vq35 IM and gut it.... since I got the spacers already and they can be had on eBay for like 180 bucks....


Did you weld the holes shut when removing the swirl valves? I hate taking the IM off....
You can put a VQ35 IM on a VQ30?
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 11:26 AM
  #136  
Senior Member
iTrader: (46)
 
schmellyfart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,827
Originally Posted by McSteve
maybe i should just suck it up and get a vq35 IM and gut it.... since I got the spacers already and they can be had on eBay for like 180 bucks....


Did you weld the holes shut when removing the swirl valves? I hate taking the IM off....
I have a 3.5 IM sitting in my room waiting to be ssim'd and installed. That won't happen until I dyno with the 00vi, though. I doubt 3.0 spacers will work with a 3.5 im. But I can compare the two manifolds when I get home.

The lim that came with my 00vi didn't have any swirl valves
Originally Posted by T_Behr904
You can put a VQ35 IM on a VQ30?
Yep, http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...os-inside.html
schmellyfart is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 11:43 AM
  #137  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Wow I really like that you can put a 3.5 IM on a 3.0... gonna read up more on that to see what all needs to be done.
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 12:01 PM
  #138  
Senior Member
iTrader: (46)
 
schmellyfart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,827
You pretty much have to hack up the rear vc so the manifold clears the coilpacks or swap on a 3.5 rear vc (IIRC will be a small oil leak if you don't swap out the matching cam collars with the 3.5vc and coils), tb adapter, portmatch the heads to the lim, mount the de-k fuel rail in the 3.5 lim if you dont want to mess with a adjustable fpr, and figure out how to route all the hoses.
schmellyfart is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 02:36 PM
  #139  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
BobPezz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 992
This thread's gone off on an IM tangent, or am I wrong? Anyway for those of you itching for a new IM, why don't you just get one of these!



Or This!



Or for The Ultimate Intake Setup!



Something like this.
BobPezz is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 02:47 PM
  #140  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Originally Posted by schmellyfart
You pretty much have to hack up the rear vc so the manifold clears the coilpacks or swap on a 3.5 rear vc (IIRC will be a small oil leak if you don't swap out the matching cam collars with the 3.5vc and coils), tb adapter, portmatch the heads to the lim, mount the de-k fuel rail in the 3.5 lim if you dont want to mess with a adjustable fpr, and figure out how to route all the hoses.
That's just a little too involved for me to do unfortunately.
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 07:04 PM
  #141  
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
TunerMaxima3000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Yeah not worth it for us 00VI guys to go that route, for the boosted fellows it's something to consider though.
TunerMaxima3000 is offline  
Old 09-29-2011, 10:30 PM
  #142  
Senior Member
iTrader: (46)
 
schmellyfart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,827
Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
Yeah not worth it for us 00VI guys to go that route, for the boosted fellows it's something to consider though.
For most 3.0's I agree. Within the year, I'd like to dyno with an 00vi and a SSIM to see if it really does make power over an 00vi on a 3.0

Originally Posted by BobPezz
This thread's gone off on an IM tangent, or am I wrong? Anyway for those of you itching for a new IM, why don't you just get one of these!



Or This!



Or for The Ultimate Intake Setup!



Something like this.
All I saw was $$$$$$
schmellyfart is offline  
Old 09-30-2011, 03:58 AM
  #143  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
ranmas2004's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 1,626
Originally Posted by BobPezz
This thread's gone off on an IM tangent, or am I wrong? Anyway for those of you itching for a new IM, why don't you just get one of these!



Or This!



Or for The Ultimate Intake Setup!



Something like this.
Kinetix is a piece of garbage...I spoke with some people that had them........runners dont match ports on lower manifold.......then welds rust.....SUCKS.

The SFR one is good....I spoke with one member that has this one and no problems...and he had great gains with it....

as far as Sparks setup.....no one else is making that intake...would be nice though!!! So we can ALL just keep having wet dreams about it......
ranmas2004 is offline  
Old 09-30-2011, 04:23 AM
  #144  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
BobPezz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 992
Originally Posted by ranmas2004
Kinetix is a piece of garbage...I spoke with some people that had them........runners dont match ports on lower manifold.......then welds rust.....SUCKS.

The SFR one is good....I spoke with one member that has this one and no problems...and he had great gains with it....

as far as Sparks setup.....no one else is making that intake...would be nice though!!! So we can ALL just keep having wet dreams about it......
Indeed! It's too bad Sparks never followed his thoughts on having them mass produced. Imagine this gem molded in plastic just like the 00VI, AWESOME!
OOPS, just soiled myself!
BobPezz is offline  
Old 09-30-2011, 07:05 AM
  #145  
Senior Member
 
T_Behr904's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Originally Posted by BobPezz
Indeed! It's too bad Sparks never followed his thoughts on having them mass produced. Imagine this gem molded in plastic just like the 00VI, AWESOME!
OOPS, just soiled myself!
Did he ever make one for Aaron? I know he really wanted one.
T_Behr904 is offline  
Old 10-01-2011, 10:33 AM
  #146  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
BobPezz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 992
Originally Posted by T_Behr904
Did he ever make one for Aaron? I know he really wanted one.
Here's all I know.
Originally Posted by sparks03max
NC Custom 3.5 IM for sale - Anyway, SOLD to NmexMAX! I am going to hate you for having it, but I'm glad its you because I know you'll put it to good use.
BobPezz is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MaxDD
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
4
09-24-2015 06:40 AM
bumpypickle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
3
09-19-2015 01:07 AM
evonder73
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
6
09-01-2015 02:21 PM
MaximaGuy14
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
0
08-30-2015 05:39 PM



Quick Reply: Sigh, Velocity Stack Round 2



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:19 AM.