Sigh, Velocity Stack Round 2
#122
#123
It's not a video, but I don't see why it wouldn't be more than enough information to get this done. I'll be waiting for your repair post... Tonight.
#124
It's actually a pretty simple fix. My advice, definitely get new screws/hardware before hand. I used Allen heads which made re-installation SO much easier, using a ball end Allen wrench vs. Phillips head screw driver. To remove the Junk OEM screws get a Phillips head that fits perfectly, clamp a Vice-Grip to the shaft and apply FIRM downward pressure on the screw using the Vice-Grip to turn the screw. Or the OEM screw-heads will strip before you can say "AW $#!+". Use the original 24hr cure JBWeld. And label all the hoses well. I used masking tape which fell off 1 hose and left me puzzled for a while, since it wasn't shown in the FSM.
#125
So I'm assuming from this picture that the shaft that the cup attaches to looks notched, so that the cup with the notched side will align up with the power rod correctly so it will open and close in it's proper rotation?
It's hard to tell in this pic since it looks like there is JB Weld inside the cup, so I can't see the rod that the cup goes on to.
It's hard to tell in this pic since it looks like there is JB Weld inside the cup, so I can't see the rod that the cup goes on to.
#126
M6x1.00 pitch 20mm long. See this MAXIMA.ORG thread for more info. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ias-stuff.html
#127
M6x1.00 pitch 20mm long. See this MAXIMA.ORG thread for more info. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ias-stuff.html
#128
The hole in my cup was stripped. But I could still only fit it over the nipple in one particular position which did not correspond to the pictures above.
It's possible that it wasn't welded on perfectly straight or that it somehow was made to fit over and then rotated a bit. So i aligned it as similar as possible with the pictures above and hope that the guy wasn't pulling on the lever in that last picture.
I also figured out my lower swirl valve problem. The valves only close between 15 and 50 degrees celsius water temp.. Below and above that they're constantly open. This is really stupid. So they are only closed for like 3 minutes at most during regular operation.
Hmmm now time to start tricksing with the eManage. I wonder whether I have any gains when I tell the ECU it's actually only 45 degrees warm.. Of course I have to adjust the fans to come on much earlier than too...
EDIT:
Lol, the water temp adjustment map is to adjust the injectors not the output of the water temp.....
So stupid. Since the valves are open the entire time anyways why are they even in there? Just to rob performance by restricting the flow...
It's possible that it wasn't welded on perfectly straight or that it somehow was made to fit over and then rotated a bit. So i aligned it as similar as possible with the pictures above and hope that the guy wasn't pulling on the lever in that last picture.
I also figured out my lower swirl valve problem. The valves only close between 15 and 50 degrees celsius water temp.. Below and above that they're constantly open. This is really stupid. So they are only closed for like 3 minutes at most during regular operation.
Hmmm now time to start tricksing with the eManage. I wonder whether I have any gains when I tell the ECU it's actually only 45 degrees warm.. Of course I have to adjust the fans to come on much earlier than too...
EDIT:
Lol, the water temp adjustment map is to adjust the injectors not the output of the water temp.....
So stupid. Since the valves are open the entire time anyways why are they even in there? Just to rob performance by restricting the flow...
Last edited by McSteve; 09-28-2011 at 04:44 PM.
#129
The hole in my cup was stripped. But I could still only fit it over the nipple in one particular position which did not correspond to the pictures above.
It's possible that it wasn't welded on perfectly straight or that it somehow was made to fit over and then rotated a bit. So i aligned it as similar as possible with the pictures above and hope that the guy wasn't pulling on the lever in that last picture.
I also figured out my lower swirl valve problem. The valves only close between 15 and 50 degrees celsius water temp.. Below and above that they're constantly open. This is really stupid. So they are only closed for like 3 minutes at most during regular operation.
Hmmm now time to start tricksing with the eManage. I wonder whether I have any gains when I tell the ECU it's actually only 45 degrees warm.. Of course I have to adjust the fans to come on much earlier than too...
EDIT:
Lol, the water temp adjustment map is to adjust the injectors not the output of the water temp.....
So stupid. Since the valves are open the entire time anyways why are they even in there? Just to rob performance by restricting the flow...
It's possible that it wasn't welded on perfectly straight or that it somehow was made to fit over and then rotated a bit. So i aligned it as similar as possible with the pictures above and hope that the guy wasn't pulling on the lever in that last picture.
I also figured out my lower swirl valve problem. The valves only close between 15 and 50 degrees celsius water temp.. Below and above that they're constantly open. This is really stupid. So they are only closed for like 3 minutes at most during regular operation.
Hmmm now time to start tricksing with the eManage. I wonder whether I have any gains when I tell the ECU it's actually only 45 degrees warm.. Of course I have to adjust the fans to come on much earlier than too...
EDIT:
Lol, the water temp adjustment map is to adjust the injectors not the output of the water temp.....
So stupid. Since the valves are open the entire time anyways why are they even in there? Just to rob performance by restricting the flow...
Another question about the intake repair. Did you notice any audible difference from broken vs. fixed? When I had my old SHO V-6 5 speed, you could clearly hear a difference when the short runner butterfly valves opened up at 4,000 r.p.m.'s. Driving the Max, I notice no audible difference when the power rod is supposed to twist open around the 5K mark. I have a Berk/Apexi intake, so I would assume that I should be able to hear something going on.
#130
"Sparks" made amazing HP gains with more than just a gutted IM. It was a complete custom designed/fabricated big plenum upper IM with tuned CAI inlet system, Bigger MAF/TB, and supporting mods. I.E. piggyback tuner, headers, 3" exhaust, etc. Which IMHO raises the bar way above a VIAS delete mod. As a matter of record "Sparks" always noted the 00VI as the BEST OEM IM design for our cars. Why mess with it?
I thought VIAS-delete was a simple 5.5 mod (I've done it), whereas you 5.0 genners have something called a "power-rod" that you remove? And that the smaller displacement engine has a VIAS design prone to failure from a cracked part... yes? no? I'm not real conversant with the 3.0L engine.
Someone clarify, please. (Tuner)
Someone clarify, please. (Tuner)
I would have to respectfully disagree, although I get where you are going with that comment. But the USDM A32 IM is cast aluminum, compared to a moulded, smoother plastic 00VI IM. This lowers intake temps substantially, a HUGE benefit you 3.5 guys can very much attest to (spacers)
#131
2) eManage FTW.
#132
McSteve, with your mods, I would just remove the power rod and swirl valves. I didn't feel any difference in normal driving after pulling the power rod, but the top end just screams - especially with an extended rev limiter.
#133
I forgot to mention that you'll need METRIC Allen wrench(s) if using metric Allen screws. A no brainer, but something that might be overlooked.
#134
Did you weld the holes shut when removing the swirl valves? I hate taking the IM off....
Last edited by McSteve; 09-29-2011 at 08:30 AM.
#135
#136
The lim that came with my 00vi didn't have any swirl valves
Yep, http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...os-inside.html
#138
You pretty much have to hack up the rear vc so the manifold clears the coilpacks or swap on a 3.5 rear vc (IIRC will be a small oil leak if you don't swap out the matching cam collars with the 3.5vc and coils), tb adapter, portmatch the heads to the lim, mount the de-k fuel rail in the 3.5 lim if you dont want to mess with a adjustable fpr, and figure out how to route all the hoses.
#139
This thread's gone off on an IM tangent, or am I wrong? Anyway for those of you itching for a new IM, why don't you just get one of these!
Or This!
Or for The Ultimate Intake Setup!
Something like this.
Or This!
Or for The Ultimate Intake Setup!
Something like this.
#140
You pretty much have to hack up the rear vc so the manifold clears the coilpacks or swap on a 3.5 rear vc (IIRC will be a small oil leak if you don't swap out the matching cam collars with the 3.5vc and coils), tb adapter, portmatch the heads to the lim, mount the de-k fuel rail in the 3.5 lim if you dont want to mess with a adjustable fpr, and figure out how to route all the hoses.
#142
All I saw was $$$$$$
#143
The SFR one is good....I spoke with one member that has this one and no problems...and he had great gains with it....
as far as Sparks setup.....no one else is making that intake...would be nice though!!! So we can ALL just keep having wet dreams about it......
#144
Kinetix is a piece of garbage...I spoke with some people that had them........runners dont match ports on lower manifold.......then welds rust.....SUCKS.
The SFR one is good....I spoke with one member that has this one and no problems...and he had great gains with it....
as far as Sparks setup.....no one else is making that intake...would be nice though!!! So we can ALL just keep having wet dreams about it......
The SFR one is good....I spoke with one member that has this one and no problems...and he had great gains with it....
as far as Sparks setup.....no one else is making that intake...would be nice though!!! So we can ALL just keep having wet dreams about it......
OOPS, just soiled myself!
#145
#146
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evonder73
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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