So every part of the ac works on the compressor end and something is screwing me on the blower end. Replaced blower and resistor but something is shorting out/frying my resistor..... what can it be? Btw the max is an 02

Any helpful tips or tricks of advice would be much appreciated.

 

When you say blower resistor, this implies that you have the manual heater controls. Is this correct? Or do you have the auto climate controls? They have different parts.

But they both use the same general operation. One side of the blower motor is connected to 12 volts through a relay.

In the manual system, the other side gets connected to ground through the resistor and then the fan switch on a manual system.

In the auto climate control system, the other side gets connected to ground through the fan control amplifier (the resistor equivalent) and then the a/c auto amplifier (the fan switch equivalent) in the dash.

When you replaced the parts, how long did it take for the new resistor to fail?

 

I have the auto climate control and thanks for the quick reply. It burnt out the resistor within a good 10-15 minutes. The resistor became VERY hot to the touch.

This is the 2nd I burnt out. The first I had connected to the old blower and it burnt out and the second burnt out connected to the new blower.

If I understand the system correctly it seems there's only the controller, relay, blower, and resistor to worry about?

02-03 auto and 00-01 manual. It's also interesting that all auto parts stores only stock the 00-01 part.

 

Yes. As a basic statement, the fan circuit is very simple.
1 - fan
2 - speed control device, the fan control amplifier.
3 - on /off switch, the a/c auto amplifier.

Since you have the auto climate controls, don't call the #2 item a resistor. It is not a resistor at all. If you really care, it is a transistor referred to as a Darlington driver. When you go to buy one and ask for a resistor, there are too many parts counter people that won't ask what kind of controls you have and will give you what you asked for, which for you would be the wrong part. The resistor costs around $80 and the amplifier costs about $110. I don't know if you could plug the wrong one in. If it is possible, then this is may be the problem, you have the wrong part.

You said it gets very hot. A good unit will get hot, that is why there is the big heatsink, the metal "finger" that sticks into the air duct. I don't know how much current the blower motor uses, but it has two 15 amp fuses supplying power. If the amplifier is burning up, that means that too many amps of electricity is going through it. If you have the correct part (the fan amplifier) and have this problem, you may have a wiring problem between the fan amplifier and the control panel in the dash.

 

Ack can the problem be the fact that I had the amp dangling around on my floor mat in mid air instead of screwing it back into place after connecting it to see if it's operating properly?

 

Well Looks like you found your GURU, and now I know who to consult if I have HVAC issues

 

If you were running the fan motor for long periods of time, it's entirely possible.

 

I'll report back tomorrow if the dealership gets the new amp in. They don't like replacing supposedly defective amp's everyday.

Thanks for reminding me of the fact that it's a heatsink. Common sense isn't always there.

Edit: Thanks Dennis. Leaving the amp dangling out for even 15 minutes of usage will burn it out. So 2 screws and putting it back where it belongs fixed the issue along with replacing the blower which probably burnt it out in the first place.