larger MAF with a 3.0 possible ?
#1
larger MAF with a 3.0 possible ?
I'm wondering it would be possible for us 3.0 guys to upgrade to a larger maf like a land rover MAF or something like it.
I know on a 3.5 all you need is a safc or vafc and a wideband to dial in the idle. But on the 3.0 you can't make any a/f changes below 40 percent throttle, cause the ecu supposedly will just relearn back to stock.
Any one running a larger MAF?
Let me know what my options are..
It might be a minimal gain mod for n/a guys, I plan on going F.I. And I'm just brainstorming and planning.
I know on a 3.5 all you need is a safc or vafc and a wideband to dial in the idle. But on the 3.0 you can't make any a/f changes below 40 percent throttle, cause the ecu supposedly will just relearn back to stock.
Any one running a larger MAF?
Let me know what my options are..
It might be a minimal gain mod for n/a guys, I plan on going F.I. And I'm just brainstorming and planning.
#2
There is no reason you can't make closed loop AFR adjustments with a 3.0. If you put a larger MAF on there the ECU will attempt to compensate by adjusting the AFR, but it will not have enough adjustment. If you manually add or subtract fuel with a piggyback, then the car will be able to pull the AFRs in line. The piggyback just give you the additional adjustment that the stock ECU doesn't have. People put z32 MAFs on the 3.0 all the time. There is more than enough info if you search.
#4
I'm wondering it would be possible for us 3.0 guys to upgrade to a larger maf like a land rover MAF or something like it.
I know on a 3.5 all you need is a safc or vafc and a wideband to dial in the idle. But on the 3.0 you can't make any a/f changes below 40 percent throttle, cause the ecu supposedly will just relearn back to stock.
I know on a 3.5 all you need is a safc or vafc and a wideband to dial in the idle. But on the 3.0 you can't make any a/f changes below 40 percent throttle, cause the ecu supposedly will just relearn back to stock.
#5
There is no reason you can't make closed loop AFR adjustments with a 3.0. If you put a larger MAF on there the ECU will attempt to compensate by adjusting the AFR, but it will not have enough adjustment. If you manually add or subtract fuel with a piggyback, then the car will be able to pull the AFRs in line. The piggyback just give you the additional adjustment that the stock ECU doesn't have. People put z32 MAFs on the 3.0 all the time. There is more than enough info if you search.
And I know 4thgen guys run the z32 maf, but the reason Id like to try the Land rover maf instead is I wouldnt have to do any additional wiring just screw my sensor into the housing.
Is the stuff i read about making a/f corrections not working under 40% throtle b.s. or does it just not apply to what im talking about.
Last edited by maxspeed96CT; 09-20-2011 at 04:26 PM.
#6
On the 3.5 and the 3.0 the setup is similar.
You'll need some kind of tool to rescale the MAF sensor (changing sensor #s on SAFC or switching airflow models on e-Manage, or just tuning manually). to make sure it behaves at idle, part throttle/cruising, etc.
I'm overdue on doing this.
You'll need some kind of tool to rescale the MAF sensor (changing sensor #s on SAFC or switching airflow models on e-Manage, or just tuning manually). to make sure it behaves at idle, part throttle/cruising, etc.
I'm overdue on doing this.
#7
On the 3.5 and the 3.0 the setup is similar.
You'll need some kind of tool to rescale the MAF sensor (changing sensor #s on SAFC or switching airflow models on e-Manage, or just tuning manually). to make sure it behaves at idle, part throttle/cruising, etc.
I'm overdue on doing this.
You'll need some kind of tool to rescale the MAF sensor (changing sensor #s on SAFC or switching airflow models on e-Manage, or just tuning manually). to make sure it behaves at idle, part throttle/cruising, etc.
I'm overdue on doing this.
I saw one post some one made a nice aluminum one . But it wasnt for sale I think he made it for himself.
#9
1.) LRMAF won’t be best for FI, only NA. Spend time in the FI forum to find out why, (charge pipes, etc).
2.) Z32 MAF, as it is in a way 4th gen specific.
3.) Idle adjustment would be the least of your worries since it will be lean without a tool the entire time.
4.) It’s not that the MAF doesn’t have enough adjustment, it’s that there is more area for air to flow, so the MAF thinks it’s flowing less air, (hot wire MAF sensor) so it will chill out and not use as much fuel as our stock MAF’s are “calibrated” to read a 2.75” ID. Come on man.
5.) Your idea of the ECU tuning re: 5th gen vs 5.5 gen is incorrect as them being different, they’re too similar for some of us. The only real differences are CVTC on the intake cam, EGR and CAN lines for the AT.
6.) VAFCII requires a lot of manual tuning which requires patience, whereas the EMU and SAFCII are pretty much just plug n play, albeit with a few minor adjustments.
7.) Sparks proved that with a bolt on NA application, a 3.5” intake is the way to go, and I agree with him. The Al ones aren’t for sale since 6Spd_Hayes hasn’t been on in a while. I’m sure knight could make you a 3.5” MAF housing and associated tubing, or there are a lot of other housings that work with our cars. (Mustang 77mm, LRMAF 82mm, etc).
8.) If you want to do this, it be best to acquaint yourself with the way a MAF works, I’d start here in MAF 101 Class:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/1...orks-fine.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...iming-mod.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...af-thread.html
Again, all essentially obsolete with FI. There are the MAF clamps that are being used now in an attempt for them not to get maxed out. Check out the FI forum for more info.
2.) Z32 MAF, as it is in a way 4th gen specific.
3.) Idle adjustment would be the least of your worries since it will be lean without a tool the entire time.
4.) It’s not that the MAF doesn’t have enough adjustment, it’s that there is more area for air to flow, so the MAF thinks it’s flowing less air, (hot wire MAF sensor) so it will chill out and not use as much fuel as our stock MAF’s are “calibrated” to read a 2.75” ID. Come on man.
5.) Your idea of the ECU tuning re: 5th gen vs 5.5 gen is incorrect as them being different, they’re too similar for some of us. The only real differences are CVTC on the intake cam, EGR and CAN lines for the AT.
6.) VAFCII requires a lot of manual tuning which requires patience, whereas the EMU and SAFCII are pretty much just plug n play, albeit with a few minor adjustments.
7.) Sparks proved that with a bolt on NA application, a 3.5” intake is the way to go, and I agree with him. The Al ones aren’t for sale since 6Spd_Hayes hasn’t been on in a while. I’m sure knight could make you a 3.5” MAF housing and associated tubing, or there are a lot of other housings that work with our cars. (Mustang 77mm, LRMAF 82mm, etc).
8.) If you want to do this, it be best to acquaint yourself with the way a MAF works, I’d start here in MAF 101 Class:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/1...orks-fine.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...iming-mod.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...af-thread.html
Again, all essentially obsolete with FI. There are the MAF clamps that are being used now in an attempt for them not to get maxed out. Check out the FI forum for more info.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 09-21-2011 at 06:37 AM.
#10
Wow thanks man, I've got some reading to do . But it almost seems like with FI its not even worth messing with the maf. Sounds like a headache. I was under the assumption just the idle might be a issue ...
1.) LRMAF won’t be best for FI, only NA. Spend time in the FI forum to find out why, (charge pipes, etc).
2.) Z32 MAF, as it is in a way 4th gen specific.
3.) Idle adjustment would be the least of your worries since it will be lean without a tool the entire time.
4.) It’s not that the MAF doesn’t have enough adjustment, it’s that there is more area for air to flow, so the MAF thinks it’s flowing less air, (hot wire MAF sensor) so it will chill out and not use as much fuel as our stock MAF’s are “calibrated” to read a 2.75” ID. Come on man.
5.) Your idea of the ECU tuning re: 5th gen vs 5.5 gen is incorrect as them being different, they’re too similar for some of us. The only real differences are CVTC on the intake cam, EGR and CAN lines for the AT.
6.) VAFCII requires a lot of manual tuning which requires patience, whereas the EMU and SAFCII are pretty much just plug n play, albeit with a few minor adjustments.
7.) Sparks proved that with a bolt on NA application, a 3.5” intake is the way to go, and I agree with him. The Al ones aren’t for sale since 6Spd_Hayes hasn’t been on in a while. I’m sure knight could make you a 3.5” MAF housing and associated tubing, or there are a lot of other housings that work with our cars. (Mustang 77mm, LRMAF 82mm, etc).
8.) If you want to do this, it be best to acquaint yourself with the way a MAF works, I’d start here in MAF 101 Class:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/1...orks-fine.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...iming-mod.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...af-thread.html
Again, all essentially obsolete with FI. There are the MAF clamps that are being used now in an attempt for them not to get maxed out. Check out the FI forum for more info.
2.) Z32 MAF, as it is in a way 4th gen specific.
3.) Idle adjustment would be the least of your worries since it will be lean without a tool the entire time.
4.) It’s not that the MAF doesn’t have enough adjustment, it’s that there is more area for air to flow, so the MAF thinks it’s flowing less air, (hot wire MAF sensor) so it will chill out and not use as much fuel as our stock MAF’s are “calibrated” to read a 2.75” ID. Come on man.
5.) Your idea of the ECU tuning re: 5th gen vs 5.5 gen is incorrect as them being different, they’re too similar for some of us. The only real differences are CVTC on the intake cam, EGR and CAN lines for the AT.
6.) VAFCII requires a lot of manual tuning which requires patience, whereas the EMU and SAFCII are pretty much just plug n play, albeit with a few minor adjustments.
7.) Sparks proved that with a bolt on NA application, a 3.5” intake is the way to go, and I agree with him. The Al ones aren’t for sale since 6Spd_Hayes hasn’t been on in a while. I’m sure knight could make you a 3.5” MAF housing and associated tubing, or there are a lot of other housings that work with our cars. (Mustang 77mm, LRMAF 82mm, etc).
8.) If you want to do this, it be best to acquaint yourself with the way a MAF works, I’d start here in MAF 101 Class:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/1...orks-fine.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...iming-mod.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...af-thread.html
Again, all essentially obsolete with FI. There are the MAF clamps that are being used now in an attempt for them not to get maxed out. Check out the FI forum for more info.
#11
Also, In addition to the vafc 2 I plan on running a wideband, a adjustble fpr , walbro 255 , and a FMU so ill some ill have a decent amount control incase it does lean it out to much. But I'd like to keep the stock injectors.
#15
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