knightsh

I have the normal bumps amd clunks all maxima's seem to have on small surface irregularities. But in the past few days a new one has surfaced. When accelerating from a stop, mainly turning, I have a single "clunk/thunk" sound. Car is an autotragic 2003 se. I have noticed this once or twice when only going straight, but mainly when turning. I am not taking off fast at all. The tranny does not slip into gear because as soon as I touch the gas I'm moving, but after a few feet there is a sound and I could swear I can "feel" it. Single sound and never when taking curves or turning in reverse. And it doesn't happen every time I leave a stop. Out of 12-15 stops a day with turns, maybe 4-5 will make the sound. Jacked up the car and removed the wheels, tried pulling/pushing on everything with no movement anywhere. Last max had play in tie rod ends, but i can't find anything here. Last owner just had transmission serviced and all was well. Any ideas??

fishtale6spd

iTrader: (13)

Check lower ball joints, strut tops, mine clunk when I turn sometime they do sometimes they dont try turning all the way and move slow then the other way mave slow again and same in reverse have the windows down so you can tell which side. Just a start

fishtale6spd

iTrader: (13)

To me after I read it again does sound like a tie rod
leave the wheel on and put your knees agains each side of the tire and push with each knee

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Don't you have hands?

fishtale6spd

iTrader: (13)

No im handicappd lost em in nam. Lol jk its just as easy I have to work on cars all day check 25 cars and knees are much more power full then you can use your hand for a reach around.. Onto the tie tod

knightsh

With car idling, I turned steering wheel from lock to lock and did not notice the sound. Tried this several times. My previous '02 had the bad tie rod ends and the wheels could be moved by hand, but this one is tight. Can't find any play anywhere. Noticed a few more times today that it makes the sound when taking off from a stop and going straight. I had previously thought it was mainly when turning. Again, the car moves several feet before making the knock/clunk sound, and it only does it once. It's not like the old click/click/click of cv axles popping, just a single knock. Thanks for the input so far guys!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Strut mounts (bearings), ball joint, wheel bearing, axel, control arm, there are many things it could be, if you're unable to properly inspect it, you need to take it to a shop for a front end inspection.

I'd point to the ball joint if you want me to just guess.

knightsh

Stopped by my usual "guy" and he's too busy right now with some engine swaps. I'm starting to lean towards a mount, whether engine or tranny I don't know. Drove with the radio off today and noticed if I braked a little hard just before stopping I could replicate the sound. First time I noticed when stopping. Also noticed if I let off the brakes and let engine power move me it does not do it until I touch the gas. Gonna try and check a second shop later. Thanks again everyone for the input.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Could be an engine mount. FYI engine/tranny mounts are the same thing in our cars.

aznaliaz

iTrader: (1)

maybe they are the swaybar endlinks, i had a similar clunkin when making turns and hitting small bumps like manhole covers, changed it out and its smoooooth now, no sounds!!

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

Def check the endlinks.

knightsh

If end links are bad, will the swaybar move? I have tried moving the bar with no results, seems very tight. Not sure other than that. No luck with shops still. My normal import shop has moved about 45 minutes away(was already 30 mins from me). Still thinking motor mounts but have not had a chance to try checking them out.

aznaliaz

iTrader: (1)

i dont think the swaybar itself will move just because u never loosen the bushing that holds it to the chassis. try wiggling the joints/pivot points on the endlinks. when i changed mines out, the top pivots on both sides made a metal to metal contact sound. i ended up getting MOOG..

GL!!

knightsh

Yesterday it started grinding under load. Still not everytime I take off, but it sounds bad. Well, got to the shop finally. Guy seems to think its the tranny. Well, he says there is a gearbox,like a transfer case, that turns the axles and he thinks the gears in there are bad. Called a tranny shop he uses that says you have to open up the tranny to replace those gears and might as well rebuild while in there-cost of $2100!!! Looks like I'm gonna take off work tomorrow and make some calls.Anyone think this sounds right? Know of a place to get another tranny in Georgia??

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Auto or manual? Sounds a little high for an Auto but not by too much. And for a manual they're trying to screw you, you can rebuild a manual for under $1200 EASY.

He's referring to the differential/diff bearings, on Front wheel drive car's they're part of the transmission, referred to as a 'transaxel'. So yes, the tranny has to be torn apart basically to do the the diff.

knightsh

Decided to get a used transmission, just couldn't afford the rebuild, plus Nissan sells remanufactured ones for about the same price. Wanted to buy used online, alot cheaper, but not sure of what you are really getting. Found a 2004 I35 auto locally, with 74k miles. Paid $1100 for the tranny, had new ceramic pads put on front, replaced the sway bar end links and bushings, new fluid in tranny for a total of $1700 labor included. Going with the rebuild was going to take longer and cost nearly $3k when all was done. Hopefully this will last a while. Guys said axels were ok after getting all the metal pieces out of them. All the normal knocks/clunks are gone too with the end link replacement. Just wish I knew what caused this tranny to come apart. I'm not hard on the car at all, it is an auto after all. My old 6 spd-I gave it hell everyday and it never gave up on me.