Just wanted to ask a little advice - my ac bearing is making noise and my mechanic acknowledges this. However he doesn't want to replace the bearing, he wants to replace the whole compressor. His reasoning is that there's a chance for a leak and that I would have to bring it in again; therefore replace the while thing.

Is this right? Or should I be looking to have just the bearings replaced. This is a 2000 SE with 185k.

Thanks in advance

 

just replace it...FYI mine started about 190k and lasted til about 210k....IJS

(ill say this, since the search button is fail right now, some people have replaced just the bearing, but i'd just recommend getting another one so you dont have to worry about it again, hopefully)

either way replace it yourself and just have him recharge the system

 

Ok so just have the bearings replaced. If he's unwilling and adamant about it I'll probably go elsewhere and have it done.

 

He won't replace it. It's pretty frustrating but I'll have to go elsewhere. He also tells me I can't put on a shorter belt to bypass it, which I thought you could...

 

and what about when you actually need the a/c to help you defrost the windows or clear all the moisture from the inside of the front windshield when it gets all fogged up???

with that many miles just replace the unit and be over with.... the mechanic is right, replacing the ball bearing is an option but it will just eliminate one of the potential problems that could occur with the compressor...

 

Cool air is coming out though which makes me think that the compressor itself is just fine. The compressor replacement is about $700 and I'm trying to not replace the whole unit if I don't have to

 

the compressor IS fine, but just replace the unit, its easier that way. go to autozone, picked up mine for under $300...price varies in diff places though might be just over $300..maybe less

 

I'd like to see you replace just the pulley, and then read about the results.

Last week, my mechanic replaced the tension pulley, and that eliminated about 90% of the mystery rattle noise that I've been living with for over a year now. That other 10% we're both sure now is the A/C. It gets louder with the A/C on.

However, just like your mechanic, mine is mostly sure the entire compressor needs to be replaced. I've said otherwise, and his answer was for me to research it here first, then talk more with him about it if I decide to go that route. (Your mechanic seems for more adamant about his opinions.)

Since the tension pulley solved most of my problems, I'll probably leave well-enough alone. But I can't help but be curious about this solution.

 

tensioner pulley is an easy replacement, i wouldnt touch going into a compressor like that, risk of screwing something up is high

 

The A/C clutch does complicate things; yeah, I get that.

I wish Advanced Search worked... makes it impossible to research this crap.

 

agreed

 

Last year, another mechanic who listened to my engine (back then it was not so noticeable) replaced the idler pulley and that obviously didn't do anything.

So I left the mechanic today and called another person who would be willing to replace the bearing, if that was the case.

At Autozone, i found this bearing (if the hyperlink fails; it's part MT2206). For those that would know, can you confirm that this would be the correct part number?
Thanks

 

i initially thought the noise was my oil pump, ended up being my compressor....GL w/ it and post results...

 

The AC should never come on unless you need it. I'm furious that the stupid *** thing always runs. Why the hell would I need it running when it's zero degrees? Stupid *** car manufacturers.

Heat is for defogging windshields. Idk why you're using AC.

 

Ha. No.

While you take 30 seconds to Google why that's a common misconception, take a little more time to research the phrase "conventional wisdom" and its derivative association to the word "convenient".

 

I'm aware why it's used, but it's dumb. It's an unnecessary use for the compressor. It already runs all spring and summer. I don't need it running while it's zero out all winter, too.

Heat works just fine for defogging and I no longer allow the compressor to run unless I'm using the damn AC.

If I wanted the compressor to fail twice as fast, then I'd have it running anytime I drive the car.

I started to notice how it runs for no (good) reason at all when my bearing started making noise. Now, had it not been running all these years, then I wouldn't have to replace the damn bearing, now would I? That's why I'm pissed.

 

OK there. Good to know.

The pulley is always spinning, regardless whether or not the clutch engages the compressor. You know that, right?

 

I don't have an AC belt on my current DD. It's magic, I know. Fairy Jesus himself must be curing my fog.

 

There's the missing piece of the puzzle. Got it now.

 

if heat is used for defrost, why when i push the defrost button, the compressor engages.........IJS

 

The defrost system uses the a/c compressor to dry the air used to defrost the windshield. It may not be that beneficial in humid climates; however, it is vital in dry climates. I've actually had the fogging get worse when I ran a defrost system in Colorado without a functioning a/c system.

 

The a/c compressor should not run when the temperature is below 35 degrees, regardless of what you set the dash controls to. If your compressor runs below the freezing temperature, you have a problem that needs to be fixed.

 

Funny you should mention this. This car, over any of my previous Maximas, fogs up like crazy! I don't know why it is, but even my wife mentions it (she still drives a '91 Maxima.) You would think with our normally dry air, the A/C wouldn't make a difference.

 

That seems backwords. The more humidity, the more need for the AC to take the moisture out of the air.

 

I believe it's due to a humidity imbalance. It seems like there is extra humidity in the system without the dryer. In a more humid climate, I think the air is similar in humidity levels.

 

When was the last time you changed the internal cabin air filter, excessive fogging of the windshield is also cause by a very dirt cabin filter as the internal air is not moving correctly through the system.

 

That's a good idea right there. All this nonsense about hot air... no, cold air... no, hot air.

Wasn't this a thread about changing the pulley on the A/C? How's that going?

 

Automotive 101. The reason the A/C Compressor runs in defrost mode is twofold. 1) Dehumidify the interior air, especially during recirculation mode. 2) Prevents A/C compressor seizure/seal failure due to lack of lubrication. When sitting idle for long cold periods the lubricant in bearings/seals/etc drys out. The lubricant is in the coolant. No compressor actuation=no coolant flow=no lubrication.