First off I would like to say that I am furious and my maxima has caused me nothing but problems in the last year. Problem after problem after problem ...
I changed the water pump and most of the cooling system a few months ago. Car ran fine for some time until I got the P0420 code; that code disappeared and was replaced with P0021 and P0300, a camshaft position sensor bank 2 and multiple random misfires on bank 2.
So I bought the new camshaft position sensor, a new coil pack for the front, and new spark plugs because they have never been changed. I also needed an oil change and had a slight leak on the pan so I bought a gasket for it. I took out the drain plug (it is magnetic) and saw a HUGE ball of metal on it and almost **** my pants I was so worried.
So I pull off the oil pan and was like what the **** is this ****? I saw some fibrous looking material clogging the oil pick up screen ... I think that may have been from the ****ty fram filter I had because it looked like that type of material ... so then on the bottom of the pan what do I see? ****ing teeth to a gear. MOTHER ****ER!!!

Now I have to pull apart the ****ing timing chain cover and check the water pump, and the chain. Car does not overheat but runs like pure dog **** ...
So I will post pictures of what I found later on when I get back from school. I am really hoping I can figure this out quickly and is something that does not cost a lot. I have even contemplated blowing this ****ing car up or driving it into a wall it makes me so mad.

 

damn hope things work out having similar problems.

 

Sounds like you better park it and set adise a few days to it, or pick up another engine at a boneyard.

I have never seen the material come out of an oil filter before, so my suspicion would be that your car has been worked on before by a very sloppy wrench.

If the metal came from a broken gear, it may not be all that bad (maybe was the subject of another repair and that's the residuals) if it all went to the bottom of the pan right away, but that's a chance you're taking, unless you're willing to take it all apart. - gl.

 

Maybe you didn't understand me fully ... but my car has never had anything done to it besides replacing most of the cooling system. I am more worried about the teeth from a gear or sprocket that are in my pan. I will be removing some parts of the car tomorrow pending weather and will include more of an update. As for the weird fibrous material ... if it is the oil filter which is possible; a piece of metal went inside it and tore up some of the element. It was a new type of fram filter that I had bought.

 

Oh, wow. Hopefully you caught it in time then, to avoid a major catastrophe. Keep us posted.

 

Hope you catch the underlying issue soon. Wouldn't want to have to fully replace an engine due to catastrophic failure.

 

Found the culprit ... ****ty aftermarket water pump. I counted 18 teeth that sheared off of it. Once I get the part it should be about a 2 hour install; going with OEM this time because I believe the OEM unit fits the timing chain better. The teeth actually look slightly different on the aftermarket unit.

 

Cats are gone, don't dismiss a p0420. You're lucky if you get one. I didn't.

 

Glad it wasn't something major!

Might be a good idea to do an engine flush (or two) in case there's any metal particles lingereing in the crank chamber or oil passages

 

That water pump can be installed without removing the entire timing cover from my understanding ! That what the access panels on the timing cover are for! I'm happy for you! Were able to read any serial #'s on those gear teeth?

 

Would there be any merit to sticking a very large magnet (like an old speaker core) to the oil pan while doing said flushes, or even for the next few months, then pulling the pan again just to make sure all the crappo is out of there?

As I type it, it seems like overkill, however I don't like the idea of metal chunks in my engine either.

 

[uQUOTE=Montego Murph;8244428]Would there be any merit to sticking a very large magnet (like an old speaker core) to the oil pan while doing said flushes, or even for the next few months, then pulling the pan again just to make sure all the crappo is out of there?

As I type it, it seems like overkill, however I don't like the idea of metal chunks in my engine either.[/QUOTE]

There's no harm in it, as long as it won't jar loose & interfere with the crank, oil pickup tube, etc.

 

Update: Upon removal of intake manifold I discovered cylinder # 5 was totally soaked in oil once I pulled the coil. The oil actually shot out that's how much there was. So I need a new valve cover. The 2006 valve cover is an upgrade from 2003 right?

 

6th gen valve covers are your best bet and cheaper than the 02-03's

 

Yes I am going to get the 04 valve cover. Ordering it tomorrow ... I am also going to do the SSIM mod while it is apart.

 

I just got the valve cover today ... the intake manifold is apart and I will be cutting out the deck tomorrow. I have a diamond tipped sawzall blade to get most out, then I will be using a burring set to smooth the rest out. Also thought about getting a cylinder hone tool for my drill so I can polish out the runners on both manifolds.

 

So I finished everything and the car still runs like doo doo ... going to have to get it scanned yet again. I am really tired of throwing money at this car without any results of it getting fixed. If it is indeed the cats that will mean I have to get headers, a rear cat and o2 sim. Money I do not have ... probably end up being 600 dollars also.

 

Wait, hang on...

How would the vanes from the water pump make their way into the oil pan? The cooling system and oil system don't cross paths....

 

Oh -- I meant sticking it to the outside of the pan.

 

That sucks to hear. Both my 5.5 gens were very reliable. Between the two, over nearly 4 years of ownership, I don't think I spent much more than I did in the last 4 months I owned my Mazda 626.

 

wow op i hate reading about threads like this ...by any chance did you scan the ECU after replacing the water pump?

If it is the cats you can scan the codes and if it IS the cats, you can temp. remove the headers ( with some work ) and run it w/o the headers/exhaust to see if the car performs better of the same, just to rule out the exhaust being restricted.


Since getting my A33 i have only changed minor things ( radiator, suspension, CKP, seat motor )

 

Damn alot of problems...but seems like your handling them pretty good....did you buy the car new or used, since you said it has only had minor stuff done like the complete cooling system....

 

That's never a good feeling when you see something like that in an oil pan. It's a good thing you found out where it came from, and that it's not timing gear teeth. How did the water pump teeth get into the oil anyway?

I'm on my third Maxima, and second 5.5 gen, and haven't had too many major problems to speak of, with the exception of the whole MAF thing. Good luck to you though. Don't be too discouraged with the Max.

 

How many miles are on the Max?

 

I got 87k on the clock. The teeth from the water pump go into the oil pan because the oil pan is directly below the timing chain and some of it can be seen from here. I am glad I accounted for all the teeth that went missing.

So far now I think the culprit is the Intake valve timing control solenoid. I tested my battery and it is giving out 12.15 v with the key in the ignition. I checked the harness going to the solenoid and it is giving 12.10 v so just a little voltage loss through all the cabling and connections. Tomorrow I will remove the solenoid and apply 12 v to it for about 2 seconds as to not damage it. I believe that the solenoid is stuck in the open position.

I will also try to check out my timing with a light if that is at all possible. Updates tomorrow some time in the afternoon.

 

p.s. after this issue is fixed I will need to replace the belt tensioner pulley, a new belt, fuel filter, brakes all around, 2 front tires and an inspection.

By the way I had some of my beer I made last christmas and they are still amazing!

 

So yesterday I took apart the solenoid and applied 12v to it and it moved freely. I put it back, tested the harness to it and received 12v. Tested battery and still had 12v.

So I also went ahead and checked out every fuse, pulled them out and put them back in. I then started the car and she is running great now ... hmmm. Makes me start to wonder. So the check engine light is still on but it is solid now. After school I will stop by my friends shop and scan it quickly and see what code is there. Clear the code and then go from there.

 

Car seems to be running good, went and got inspection. It passed ... on the way home ****ing check engine light popped back on. Scanned it and it was P0420. I ordered a dual output o2 simulator which should be arriving Thursday. Hopefully everything works out well.

 

^^^What he said^^^

 

not to be a ****, but you people need to read better ... never did I see the vanes from the water pump. I said teeth to a gear which was from the water pump. The same gear that is driven by the timing chain which does go down towards the oil pan.

 

Interested in how the O2 simulators work for you, as I have had the P0420 code a few times and also think it is the o2 sensor getting tired. I have 245,000 km on the clock.

 

Just got in the o2 simulator today. I will be installing this tomorrow and post results.

 

it's out of time. teeth in the oil pan are from the timing chain. also the best oil filter made is a hastings. more money but worth it.

 

No it was teeth from the water pump. Car is running great, put in the o2 simulator for the P0420 code and it worked wonderfully.