I wouldn't modify a '91 Camry anyway.

I kid. But still, when you compare the '91 Camry to the 5th gen, you've also got to keep in mind that the 5th gen has 10-11 years of technological advances behind its suspension over the Camry. So yes, even without IRS, it might handle better. But compare another model year car with IRS of a similar class to the 5th gen, and I bet it's game over.

I vote double-wishbone in the front.

I wonder if anyone's ever actually tried to undertake that. It'd be a lot of money, and sort of useless. But a cool concept, nonetheless.

 

I say ditch the butterfly doors up front and put suicide doors in the rear.

Go all Phantom-esque.

Do you really think the outside of the G sedan is that hideous?

I suppose the 03-04 isn't great, but it has grown on me a little.

 

Yes I do think it's hideous. And suicide doors are in my head already either way, but where my Mom lives (i'm there very often with my son), it would be a real PITA.... I dunno guess I can just back in rather than pull it.... not a big deal actually now that I think it through.

I'll have to peek at it closer, rear suicides would be much nicer than vertical doors either way... I'm still going to pop the fender and see if the hinges will mount right up, if they requrie too much modification I'll abandon it.

 

i have a 90 max all stock, im going to part it out or sell as is for 500, engine runs tranny is bad message me for more info and or pictures

 

Uh yeah you're gonna want to post this in the classifieds.....:metalmax:

 

Hey, look at that! I haven't seen FS spam in a while.

The Org has been getting kind of boring lately, I think.

 

Lol no doubt, nothing will top the double loop thread I don't htink..


there have been some decent starters lately but they haven't got the attention to take flight

 

So Tuner... here you are 360 some odd posts into "sell it or keep it" thread for your 2001 AE. And now that you've found and purchased the next car, this thread is kind of a bridge between the original post and a Progress Thread for a car that isn't actually a Maxima.

But all that is actually off-topic to the matter at hand, which is: are you going to sell or keep the AE?

 

I wouldn't modify it either! But used it as an example of an evil handling IRS setup. I don't think the Maxima suspension design is really that much more technologically advanced than what was on the 91 Camry. It's still McPherson strut, single lower control arm geometry limited. But given those and the rear beam axle's limitations shows how refinement of a chassis design can be more important to good handling than just the design itself. As far as cars of the same year and class, how would you compare 00-03 Camry, Gallant, Lumina, Taurus, or Stratus handling vs. the 5-5.5gen. Maxima?

 

I KNEW you had your heart still set on the twin loop. Do they make right hand loop and left hand loop styles for the G35?

 

Biggest issue with Maxima's suspension is the lack of positive caster that forces the car to lose grip with increased steering angle. And the way our LCAs are designed doesn't allow very much adjustability.

 

Not to argue the point. But from what I've read excessive positive caster will increase understeer in FWD cars. Same goes for excessive lowering which reduces camber change and negative camber in a turn. Since caster and camber work together to keep the tire contact patch parallel to the pavement. I know, Tuner's going to say I never should've read that suspension tuning article!

 

I'm not sure if the Sentra's rear beam has any sort of adjustability, but this guy is making his VQ35 swapped car run really well with the big dogs

 

Probably has a panhard rod back there. Scott/Russel link FTMFL. There was a thread about this in the Advanced chassis.

That's why I've got like -3 degrees camber up front.

 

Uh oh

someone was bound to notice that sometime I guess


I will sell it in the spring. Part out for the Coilovers, BBK, possibly the Cattman Axel back, and some other minor things, including uninstalled and new parts, but the bulk of it will go with the car. I will put it up on TMEC (toronto maxima) for a couple weeks in spring while the Coilovers are mounted in case someone wants them pre-installed and is willing to pay straight up for it. If that doesn't work I'll return the suspension to stock.

And to be fair, until I sell it the thread is still afloat, who knows what could happen from now to then? And I'll be driving the Maxima as soon as winter hits (if it ever happens,this weather has been crazy here lately)

 

Well since you completely ignored my advice, when you decide to part out I have dibs on whatever I want for the LOW LOW

 

Btw do you have a Cattman 2.5" or 3"?

It would be interesting to mod the cattman onto the g35, I bet it would sound pretty impressive!

 

Technobabble: Multilink and the Beam - By Dave Coleman

The new Infiniti G20 comes with a remarkable suspension. It is, on the surface, a marriage of the utmost sophistication up front, with ox cart crudeness in the rear. The G20's combination of a multi-link front suspension with a multi-link beam beam rear suspension seems like the Harvard-Phd-meets-prison-work-release mismatch of the century, but is it really? If you look beyond every enthusiast's natural aversion to the word beam, the G20's suspension is actually as close to a perfect match as is possible.
In Defense of the Beam
Lets try to break the predjusice against the beam first. Beam axle rear suspensions have a deservedly bad reputation for a few reasons. Those schooled in front engine, rear-wheel drive cars draw a connection with solid-axle rear drivers. A solid axle on a rear-wheel drive car must carry the differential and drive axles, so it is exceptionally heavy and takes up a tremendous amount of space between its size and the space it needs to go through its full travel. A beam axle on a front-wheel drive car, though, only needs to connect the wheels, so it can be much lighter, and can be positioned lower, since there are no drive axles that need to be positioned at the wheel centerline.
The Infiniti G20's multi-link beam rear suspension (the same suspension that resides in the rear of the Sentra and Maxima). Is it really a good performance suspension, or just a clever bit of marketing to pepper the agonizingly dull beam with some of the exotic aura of a multi-link suspension? Those used to front-wheel drive cars are accustomed to beam rear suspensions being used on cheap cars where performance is hardly even on the priority list. Minivans have beam rear suspensons, after all. Beam axles are cheap, basic, and they work well enough for the relatively unburdened rear wheels of a front-wheel drive car.
Solid axles on either type of car do have one distict advantage, though. They keep the wheels straight up and down no matter how much the body rolls. Assuming everything else is designed properly, this can be a distict advantage.
So what is this "multi-link beam" and what makes it so great? In reality, every beam axle rear suspension must have some system of links to allow the wheels to travel up and down without moving front to back or side to side--the multi-link beam just does an exceptionally good job of it. Nissan's multi-link beam falls under the general category of a twist beam. Front-to-back location is accomplished with a single trailing link on each side that pivots where it attaches to the car, but is mounted solidly to the beam. This solid mounting of the trailing link to the beam means that if the wheels do not move together relative to the car--such as when the body rolls--the beam itself must twist to accomodate the different angles of the two trailing links. So in a twist beam, the beam itself acts as an anti-roll bar.
Side-to-side location on beam axles is most commonly done with a Panhard rod--a long link that attaches to the car on one end and the beam on the other. The most obvious problem with this arrangement is that it is asymmetrical. Since the beam is located by a link that swings through an arc, there is a slight side-to-side movement of the beam as the suspension moves up and down. This is not at all good for high-speed stability. Another side effect of the asymmetric Panhard rod is different jacking force depending on which way you are turning. Since conering forces are transmitted from the wheels to the body through a not-quite-horizontal rod, a portion of that cornering force will be translated into a vertical force jacking the back of the car either up or down depending on what direction you are turning.
The Scott-Russell linkage used on the multi-link beam has none of the dissadvantages of the asymmetric Panhard rod, and is simpler and more compact than a Watts linkage. Both of these problems can be cured by using a more complex Watts linkage, but those are significantly more bulky, and would take up too much trunk space for a luxury sedan like the G20. Instead, the multi-link beam uses what is known as a Scott-Russel approximate straight-line mechanism. This clever arrangement uses two rods to create a link that moves straight up and down. This mechanism requires that one of the attachment points be able to slide, but since this sliding is over a very short distance, Nissan simply designed a special bushing that is extremely soft in the direction the rod must slide, but stiff in any other direction.
So if the G20's rear suspension is just a twist beam with a clever lateral locator link, why the special name? There was a time when every different kind of suspension layout had a name, but that was when there were still relatively few commonly-used suspension layouts, and each could be described with a few words. Then came a new breed of suspension consisting of an assemblage of links, struts, and rods so complex that the few-word description stretched into a dissertation on mechanics. Thus the catch-all term "multi-link suspension" was coined to describe suspensions so complex and exotic that nobody could possibly understand how they work. The multi-link beam name is really just a clever bit of marketing to pepper the agonizingly dull beam with some of the exotic aura of a multi-link suspension. You have to admit, "multi-link beam" does roll off the tongue more easily than "twist beam with Scott-Russel lateral locator link".

 

If recent behavior is any evidence, there's a good chance you'll modify the G35S into some kind of Transformer Xmas Tree between now and February, at which point you'll start looking for the next car.

Or maybe you could start thinking bigger, and focus on getting your home relocated somewhere that has a nice big garage. Because you, sir, you need a garage. Two car, at a minimum.

 

Well I'll bump this back to show off my newest LED handiwork. Preliminary stages, clock is complete, more to come:





Making room:



Fitting:



Assembled, test shots:















^^ Video is up

 

Well pick a color, any color, looks nice.....

 

thats impressive!!

Whats with the dust though.

 

^LMAO I knew that was going to come out. Just from having it apart I need to clean it before installing it in the car. Pre-lim photos

 

RGB...VERY...Very...very...cool!!! REALLY Nice Work! 'Tuner'

 

Of course that's insanely cool, and more than a little impressive.

Is it just those 8 colors, or is it the full spectrum (like the Mustang dash)? The controls imply full RGB, but in your video that doesn't seem to be the way it behaves.

Either way, Tuner.

 

Full Spectrum. You can change the contrast/Hue as well as the brightness/intensity. For the purpose of a quick video I didn't get into all that. Quickly moving the colour ring control does stick to primary vivid colours, but if you slow it down and play with it you can get pretty much anything you want out of it.

I like the remote too, it's 'touch' technology, so you don't actually push anything. Operates similar to any touch screen.

Thanks for the kudos guys I'm pretty proud of this little adventure. I just hope I can incorporate it into the audio unit, window switches, etc. I know I can do the Gauge Cluster and obviously the clock. I'm working on a custom made optic lens cover for the LCD screen as well, although the colour of the LCD won't change, I'm hoping that changing the lens colour will still create a nice effect. At the very least I'll be able to change it to a neutral white colour or something.

 

Tuner your work is always outstanding with these mods.what setup is that for the rgb led's i would like to give it a try because i have a alpine headunit that chances color like that DVA-9965 and would like to try and match it with the rest or the lighting.

 

The 4 wire, and single RGB 5050 and Cree SMD's/LEDs, are from SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.com. The RF controller unit, RGB strips, Pigtail connectors are off EBAY. The type of strips and Controller unit I wanted couldn't be found anywhere else, so I hunted and paid for the top quality ones off EBAY. I'm very happy with the quality, top notch.

I haven't tried any of the SUPERBRIGHTLED stuff yet, other than the 4 wire cord. I'll be trying that stuff when I try the window switches, I"m sure it's quality will be great, I've always been very pleased with SUPERBRIGHTLED's commitment to quality.

 

Thanks for the info.the led stuff has me on a trial and error status with making it work all the time the parts your showing looks a little easier to assemble and get it to work.the one project i had tried involved making a board and soldering everything to it didnt work out for me too well the soldering part i'm good at even with smt but the whole board thing and layout thats for the birds.

 

Juuuust warming up Test #1

 

WICKED! are you going to do all the lighting in the car like this?Man you are blessed with patients and skill.

 

I love electrical work and I still dont mess with the LED's. It looks cool and all but I just like the stock lights and how easy it is to leave them alone lol

 

That's the hope. At minimum, the gauges, Clock, door 'puddle lights', and footwell lighting. No guarantees on the rest just yet.

 

Pretty fancy work there, Matt. I'm assuming that you can change the colours @ will, pick your fave of the day and leave that colour on?
Sounds like Sublime's greatest hits playing in the vid. That disk is always in the car with me. One of my fav's to drive to.
I must come visit you this spring and impose on you to help me change a couple of bulbs that are out in my climate control.

 

^ Sounds good man I don't have an issue, come down any time. I'll pop your clock bulbs in too if you haven't fixed it yet. And yes I think it's one of their greatest hit albums. That and BushX are always in my CD player for when I do this work lol, keeps me mellow.

And yes I can change it whenever. I'll probably find a few I like and use them primarily. Just set it whenever and leave it. It automatically reverts to the last colour also, which is a very nice feature when you just want to get in and drive.

 

Now make it turn red at redline

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2K2c3QQgSA

ricey though.

 

That's the only car he was able to do that to with full success^. He does do some great work though.

I'm not interested in doing this, if I tracked my car I would. It's just wiring a shift light different, not rocket science.

 

Better teaser^^

 

That bleeds a lot into the left gauge. But I'm guessing when you're done, you'll have emitters on both sides, right?