.....TunerMaxima's Sell it or Keep it Thread......
...longer tubing is also going to create more friction, meaning more tumbling and stagnant air. If you want a good example of this, take a straw and suck through it. Notice at full length how it's more difficult to move air through it due to friction. Now, cut the straw in half and repeat the process. Finally, cut that half in half. The initial uptake of air becomes easier and easier, but the harder you draw, the less air you'll be able to inhale as the straw length shortens...
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LOL you guys know me.... No patience anymore for modding I just have to dig in. I'm doing my best to keep a premise active on this car though that wasn't so active on the Maxima:
ANY PROJECT I START, I EITHER FINISH RIGHT AWAY, OR REASSEMBLE THE PARTS.
My maxima had a couple months here and there where I was driving around with it half torn apart, I am going to do my best not to let that nonsense happen this time.
1. I'm going to get the twist lock, or at least, different ones from SBL, I have a big order to put in to get some Orange/Amber LED's, I'm still undecided on colour scheme in the car, I want something that's still classy, and don't want to do Blue. The orange/Amber would be nice as long as I mainatin a Rich colour, not the Stock yellowish colour that these cars come with.
2. I'll be making or getting a midpipe, and when doing so would like to explore forming a true CAI, possibly using the stock intake ducts (there's 2), and somehow integrating the cold air port I 'made', I'd like to keep this system sealed so that the Cone filter can pull the air in from the outside, through the cold air port as well as the stock snorkle ducting. I had some 3" tubing laying around but it seems the stock intake is actually 3.5" or equivalent on the G, so I need to get more tubing in.
3. Regarding the exterior/body mods, I'm already looking into the coupe front end conversion, but haven't been able to find any conclusive information on it, specifically, what parts I need to get together aside from the obvious (Outer fenders, hood, headlights, bumper cover)
And I've already got a Coupe midpipe sitting in my basement awaiting install.
ANY PROJECT I START, I EITHER FINISH RIGHT AWAY, OR REASSEMBLE THE PARTS.
My maxima had a couple months here and there where I was driving around with it half torn apart, I am going to do my best not to let that nonsense happen this time.
1. I'm going to get the twist lock, or at least, different ones from SBL, I have a big order to put in to get some Orange/Amber LED's, I'm still undecided on colour scheme in the car, I want something that's still classy, and don't want to do Blue. The orange/Amber would be nice as long as I mainatin a Rich colour, not the Stock yellowish colour that these cars come with.
2. I'll be making or getting a midpipe, and when doing so would like to explore forming a true CAI, possibly using the stock intake ducts (there's 2), and somehow integrating the cold air port I 'made', I'd like to keep this system sealed so that the Cone filter can pull the air in from the outside, through the cold air port as well as the stock snorkle ducting. I had some 3" tubing laying around but it seems the stock intake is actually 3.5" or equivalent on the G, so I need to get more tubing in.
3. Regarding the exterior/body mods, I'm already looking into the coupe front end conversion, but haven't been able to find any conclusive information on it, specifically, what parts I need to get together aside from the obvious (Outer fenders, hood, headlights, bumper cover)
And I've already got a Coupe midpipe sitting in my basement awaiting install.
Maybe you can answer this, Mr. Brett: I've been trying to find any solid research on whether the Helmholtz resonators BEFORE the intake manifold change the power curve or if they are solely there to reduce intake noise.
It's clear that the design of the intake manifold (link to fifty different Sparks threads here) provides that bump in air volume at specific frequencies/speeds, but it's not clear if the pipe leading into the intake manifold can enhance or otherwise affect that internal intake manifold tuning. It's irritating that they silence the engine so much, but if yanking it off detracts from the engine's power or airflow, wouldn't the silence be preferred?
The '02-'03 FWD VQ35 has pretty small resonators attached to the intake piping, but the one on the '04-'08 Maxima VQ35s is friggin' huge. I took the resonator off my 3L Taurus back in the day. It sounded great and I don't remember feeling any power loss, but that was several years ago on a low-compression, low-power engine designed in the mid-80s.
Have you any thoughts or links on this subject? My thoughts especially wander to what happens when you go from partial to full throttle. Would the air in the Helmholtz resonator get sucked out, providing a boost in airflow to compensate for the delay between butterfly opening and outside air making its way all the way down the intake piping? Or does a sudden change in pressure have no affect on the contents of the resonator..? Ah, so many points of confusion. =(
@Tuner: That's a gorgeous clock look you have going on there. The interior of your car is strikingly similar to the '02-'03 Maxima! I didn't realize the G35s looked like a Maxima from inside. Did it feel like home when you stepped from your 5th gen to the G35?
It's clear that the design of the intake manifold (link to fifty different Sparks threads here) provides that bump in air volume at specific frequencies/speeds, but it's not clear if the pipe leading into the intake manifold can enhance or otherwise affect that internal intake manifold tuning. It's irritating that they silence the engine so much, but if yanking it off detracts from the engine's power or airflow, wouldn't the silence be preferred?
The '02-'03 FWD VQ35 has pretty small resonators attached to the intake piping, but the one on the '04-'08 Maxima VQ35s is friggin' huge. I took the resonator off my 3L Taurus back in the day. It sounded great and I don't remember feeling any power loss, but that was several years ago on a low-compression, low-power engine designed in the mid-80s.
Have you any thoughts or links on this subject? My thoughts especially wander to what happens when you go from partial to full throttle. Would the air in the Helmholtz resonator get sucked out, providing a boost in airflow to compensate for the delay between butterfly opening and outside air making its way all the way down the intake piping? Or does a sudden change in pressure have no affect on the contents of the resonator..? Ah, so many points of confusion. =(
@Tuner: That's a gorgeous clock look you have going on there. The interior of your car is strikingly similar to the '02-'03 Maxima! I didn't realize the G35s looked like a Maxima from inside. Did it feel like home when you stepped from your 5th gen to the G35?
Also, the rear windows go all the way down, work on the auto-down feature of the key fab, and every window is auto up and down.
Regarding your statements about intake:
- Reducing restriction in the intake will 9/10 times create gains across the powerband. Those baffles are there to limit noise, that's about all they do well, otherwise, they're just restrictions and are robbing power.
Honestly, man, I'll be straightforward with you. I'm not sure. As far as I know, to date, the best intake design out there for the MAXIMA is to run 3" ID intake tubing, sparks said something along the line of 32"(?), with a BBMAF, velocity stack, and the helmholtz in place.
Really, it comes down to what range of the RPMs you want to see gains in. Shorter tubing is going to give a resonant frequency that gains in the low end. Longer tubing is going to give a resonant frequency that gains in the top end. But longer tubing is also going to create more friction, meaning more tumbling and stagnant air. If you want a good example of this, take a straw and suck through it. Notice at full length how it's more difficult to move air through it due to friction. Now, cut the straw in half and repeat the process. Finally, cut that half in half. The initial uptake of air becomes easier and easier, but the harder you draw, the less air you'll be able to inhale as the straw length shortens.
Resonators such as the helmholtz take advantage of how different effects, such as bottle-necks, and increases in diameter can change the frequency of the fluid passing through it.
Think of air as moving in waves, just like sound acoustics. When the air moves into the intake manifold, it doesn't just get sucked directly into the engine, but rather, bounces around inside the manifold, sheering off of various surfaces until it's "eaten," so to speak, by the cylinders. Air will be bouncing off of the VIAS, rear manifold wall, intake valves, and everything else. Most of it will be reflected back toward the throttle body, as inertia will cause it to want to tend to keep moving in a straight line until it experiences an interference of some kind. The frequency of the air reflecting back and fourth in waves changes depending on the amount of air that the car is using. The bigger the volume of air you're moving, the higher the frequency is going to become, based on a chamber of the same volume.
For example, take two bottles of the same size, and fill one half-way with water, and the other a quarter of the way. Set them on their side, and give them a few rocks end-to-end. You'll see that the greater volume of water in the one tends to move back and fourth faster, as well as hold its inertial energy longer than the 1/4 filled bottle.
Those are the best examples I can come up with for right now. And there are tons and TONS of factors that I've left out that affect the frequency of air waves entering the intake. This is just going off of basic fluid dynamics. If anyone with more education in engineering/dynamics can correct anything I'm wrong about, or fill in anything I've missed, by all means, go ahead.
As far as your comment about the interior, the interior of the G is actually surprisingly different from the Maxima. About the only thing that looks similar is the center dash. The coupe and sedan interiors are actually quite similar, though.
Really, it comes down to what range of the RPMs you want to see gains in. Shorter tubing is going to give a resonant frequency that gains in the low end. Longer tubing is going to give a resonant frequency that gains in the top end. But longer tubing is also going to create more friction, meaning more tumbling and stagnant air. If you want a good example of this, take a straw and suck through it. Notice at full length how it's more difficult to move air through it due to friction. Now, cut the straw in half and repeat the process. Finally, cut that half in half. The initial uptake of air becomes easier and easier, but the harder you draw, the less air you'll be able to inhale as the straw length shortens.
Resonators such as the helmholtz take advantage of how different effects, such as bottle-necks, and increases in diameter can change the frequency of the fluid passing through it.
Think of air as moving in waves, just like sound acoustics. When the air moves into the intake manifold, it doesn't just get sucked directly into the engine, but rather, bounces around inside the manifold, sheering off of various surfaces until it's "eaten," so to speak, by the cylinders. Air will be bouncing off of the VIAS, rear manifold wall, intake valves, and everything else. Most of it will be reflected back toward the throttle body, as inertia will cause it to want to tend to keep moving in a straight line until it experiences an interference of some kind. The frequency of the air reflecting back and fourth in waves changes depending on the amount of air that the car is using. The bigger the volume of air you're moving, the higher the frequency is going to become, based on a chamber of the same volume.
For example, take two bottles of the same size, and fill one half-way with water, and the other a quarter of the way. Set them on their side, and give them a few rocks end-to-end. You'll see that the greater volume of water in the one tends to move back and fourth faster, as well as hold its inertial energy longer than the 1/4 filled bottle.
Those are the best examples I can come up with for right now. And there are tons and TONS of factors that I've left out that affect the frequency of air waves entering the intake. This is just going off of basic fluid dynamics. If anyone with more education in engineering/dynamics can correct anything I'm wrong about, or fill in anything I've missed, by all means, go ahead.
As far as your comment about the interior, the interior of the G is actually surprisingly different from the Maxima. About the only thing that looks similar is the center dash. The coupe and sedan interiors are actually quite similar, though.
Shorter intake is Higher RPM power, Low end loss.
Longer intake is vise-versa.
There's pretty much no such thing as 3" ID pipe, it's 3" OD, which equates to about 2.75" ID, anything larger than that would mean you have to install a different MAFS and tune accordingly.
IIRC, the DE-K likes a 32 inch pipe for it`s intake, and the 3.5 about 26-30 inches, shorter for higher HP, Longer for low end Torque.
Again, resonators and baffles in the intake are only for noise suppression, they are not designed to change the performance in a positive way.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; Dec 14, 2011 at 03:12 PM.
OAN to Eirik, yes different intake tuning will change the throttle response, which is the main thing`I think you`re trying to refer to. You`ll notice with pretty well any car with a cable TB that when you just stop on it, it kind of bogs down and doesn`t pul lhard until you get up in RPM.
But, same car, if you get on the accellerator partially, and once the air starts coming in gradually open the throttle (push the pedal), you`ll get more of a `boost`.
But, same car, if you get on the accellerator partially, and once the air starts coming in gradually open the throttle (push the pedal), you`ll get more of a `boost`.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,344
From: Jacksonville, FL
Regarding your statements about intake:
- Reducing restriction in the intake will 9/10 times create gains across the powerband. Those baffles are there to limit noise, that's about all they do well, otherwise, they're just restrictions and are robbing power.
You've got a few things mixed up my man.
Shorter intake is Higher RPM power, Low end loss.
Longer intake is vise-versa.
There's pretty much no such thing as 3" ID pipe, it's 3" OD, which equates to about 2.75" ID, anything larger than that would mean you have to install a different MAFS and tune accordingly.
IIRC, the DE-K likes a 32 inch pipe for it`s intake, and the 3.5 about 26-30 inches, shorter for higher HP, Longer for low end Torque.
- Reducing restriction in the intake will 9/10 times create gains across the powerband. Those baffles are there to limit noise, that's about all they do well, otherwise, they're just restrictions and are robbing power.
You've got a few things mixed up my man.
Shorter intake is Higher RPM power, Low end loss.
Longer intake is vise-versa.
There's pretty much no such thing as 3" ID pipe, it's 3" OD, which equates to about 2.75" ID, anything larger than that would mean you have to install a different MAFS and tune accordingly.
IIRC, the DE-K likes a 32 inch pipe for it`s intake, and the 3.5 about 26-30 inches, shorter for higher HP, Longer for low end Torque.
OAN to Eirik, yes different intake tuning will change the throttle response, which is the main thing`I think you`re trying to refer to. You`ll notice with pretty well any car with a cable TB that when you just stop on it, it kind of bogs down and doesn`t pul lhard until you get up in RPM.
But, same car, if you get on the accellerator partially, and once the air starts coming in gradually open the throttle (push the pedal), you`ll get more of a `boost`.
But, same car, if you get on the accellerator partially, and once the air starts coming in gradually open the throttle (push the pedal), you`ll get more of a `boost`.
All that said, I actually have a mandrel bent, pre measured pipe arrangement sitting in my basement with all the couplers to make a TRUE CAI for the Maxima, I thought I`d use them on the G but the piping is bigger on the G.
But for those with the VQ30DE and DE-K, it would be painful to lose any of the low end torque, because it`s a slug in the low end already.
Thanks, nelledge, Brett, TM. I wasn't asking the long-dead question of which intake setup is best, (as Sparks clearly answered that for us last year) but simply whether chopping off a Helmholtz resonator located early in the intake route affects the airflow in a negative manner. I think it's absurd to state that removing an object that air passes OVER and not into and out of will boost power, and fortunately no intelligent folk here have suggested that, so I'm just trying to figure out if the huge plastic chamber is really there solely for noise suppression.
I read a Popular Mechanics article (from the late 90s or early 2000s) that implied the chamber's effect on the intake air's pulses was greater than mere noise cancellation. I just found this one tonight, however, that says the complete opposite.
Massively ridiculous link behind here: "...the device should have no effect whatsoever on your engine's performance," meaning I need to find a way to plug the huge hole at the bottom of the air cleaner assembly.
:
(16580: Much larger than the '02-'03 resonator. Net effect? The '04+ Maxima's engine is noticeably quieter than the '02.
)
I'll stop hijacking your threads now, TM. Are you going to change your name? Brett did shortly before he got his G, but we can attribute it to that if it gives you reason to become "TUNER G NINE THOUSAND!" in a spurt of gay rainbows.
I read a Popular Mechanics article (from the late 90s or early 2000s) that implied the chamber's effect on the intake air's pulses was greater than mere noise cancellation. I just found this one tonight, however, that says the complete opposite.
Massively ridiculous link behind here: "...the device should have no effect whatsoever on your engine's performance," meaning I need to find a way to plug the huge hole at the bottom of the air cleaner assembly.
:(16580: Much larger than the '02-'03 resonator. Net effect? The '04+ Maxima's engine is noticeably quieter than the '02.
)I'll stop hijacking your threads now, TM. Are you going to change your name? Brett did shortly before he got his G, but we can attribute it to that if it gives you reason to become "TUNER G NINE THOUSAND!" in a spurt of gay rainbows.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,344
From: Jacksonville, FL
Yes That`s how it`s measured, it puts you into the corner of the engine bay, pretty much you just relocate the battery 90*, and if you`re ambitious, move the fuse panel also and send it to the corner. The reason no one does it or opts for the SRI, is cause it`s so much darn work to get the ìdeal set up.
I recall seeing some pics somewhere of an intake on a 5/5.5 that had the filter located in the fender with the filter in between that and the plastic wheel well liner. Not sure if that would give the desired length or not, so measurements would have to be made.
Yeah after having experienced both, the 3.5 is very torquey on the low end, and the DE-K and even the VQ30DE are both more 4000k-6300 RPM performers. This for me settled a lot of recurring arguments around here, normally the arguments are due to this fact. The 3.5 guys have no problem `losing`the low end for SRIs, BOP plates, etc, etc. Cause even if they do lose a pinch, they`ve still got tons.
But for those with the VQ30DE and DE-K, it would be painful to lose any of the low end torque, because it`s a slug in the low end already.
But for those with the VQ30DE and DE-K, it would be painful to lose any of the low end torque, because it`s a slug in the low end already.
I'll be making or getting a midpipe, and when doing so would like to explore forming a true CAI, possibly using the stock intake ducts (there's 2), and somehow integrating the cold air port I 'made', I'd like to keep this system sealed so that the Cone filter can pull the air in from the outside, through the cold air port as well as the stock snorkle ducting. I had some 3" tubing laying around but it seems the stock intake is actually 3.5" or equivalent on the G, so I need to get more tubing in.
After doing a bit of research I found out the 3.0L is grossly oversquare vs. the 3.5L having only a 2.2mm larger bore but an 8.3mm longer stroke. Which gives significantly different pumping/crank angle/torque characteristics. Probably also why it's argued that aftermarket intakes on the 3.0L in daily driving, show minimal gains over the OEM setup. Which is rumored as being frequency tuned to simulate a longer intake path.
I like your idea of using the OEM airbox/snorkel setup as a cold air box/CAI. From the picture of the OEM setup the "Cool Air Diverter" concept would be a big plus for getting cool air up to the OEM inlets. It looks like there's lots of space ahead of the radiator/support for a large and effective device.
I like your idea of using the OEM airbox/snorkel setup as a cold air box/CAI. From the picture of the OEM setup the "Cool Air Diverter" concept would be a big plus for getting cool air up to the OEM inlets. It looks like there's lots of space ahead of the radiator/support for a large and effective device.
At the end of the day, the only real intake for that car is the Injen, or a custom CAI, next to that running as far as you can get toward the fender is likely best but again, requires moving the fuse panel and battery, and if you're going ot do that may as well go into the fender and do it right.
Yes you see why they're so different now. That's exactly right, the 3.0 needs a longer intake, people who slap a SRI on there don't see any real gains, they usually lose torque. In the case of the 3.0, the Injen is the only aftermarket option that actually acheives the necessary tuning lengths to show beneficial gains on a N/A 3.0. I've argued this before with the Injen Ne-Sayers.
At the end of the day, the only real intake for that car is the Injen, or a custom CAI, next to that running as far as you can get toward the fender is likely best but again, requires moving the fuse panel and battery, and if you're going ot do that may as well go into the fender and do it right.
At the end of the day, the only real intake for that car is the Injen, or a custom CAI, next to that running as far as you can get toward the fender is likely best but again, requires moving the fuse panel and battery, and if you're going ot do that may as well go into the fender and do it right.
On another note;
From the looks of the front end pics. Might I suggest simply changing the stock grill for a nice chrome or polished wire mesh unit. It would give a nice Jaguar like look with the OEM shape of the grill. And of course the lower lip of your choice.
Regarding the exterior/body mods, I'm already looking into the coupe front end conversion, but haven't been able to find any conclusive information on it, specifically, what parts I need to get together aside from the obvious (Outer fenders, hood, headlights, bumper cover)
Last edited by BobPezz; Aug 30, 2014 at 04:58 AM.
Aren't you contradicting yourself? Seriously, I'm not talking those cheapo grills, but a nicely made unit like the Jag uses. I think it looks very tasteful in a 'form follows function sexiness' for lack of a better term. Which has always been Jaguar's claim to fame aesthetically. It could look tasteful on Tuner's G35 as on the Jag if done properly. And there's no question he's capable of that.
Hmmm chain link style eh... Normally I'd be quite opposed to anything resembling a wire/mesh grille, as they normally just look like hacked in Home Depot gutter guard or Home screening.
one of the guys at work has a Photoshop Master CD I should get it from him.
In either event, I still haven't decided whether to do the coupe front end or not, basically from lack of information thus far. So until I do make that decision I'm not bothering looking at the front end options.
I am likely buying THIS set of Side skirts. (NISMO).
Just the side skirts though.
one of the guys at work has a Photoshop Master CD I should get it from him.
In either event, I still haven't decided whether to do the coupe front end or not, basically from lack of information thus far. So until I do make that decision I'm not bothering looking at the front end options.
I am likely buying THIS set of Side skirts. (NISMO).
Just the side skirts though.
Hmmm chain link style eh... Normally I'd be quite opposed to anything resembling a wire/mesh grille, as they normally just look like hacked in Home Depot gutter guard or Home screening.
one of the guys at work has a Photoshop Master CD I should get it from him.
In either event, I still haven't decided whether to do the coupe front end or not, basically from lack of information thus far. So until I do make that decision I'm not bothering looking at the front end options.
I am likely buying THIS set of Side skirts. (NISMO).
Just the side skirts though.
one of the guys at work has a Photoshop Master CD I should get it from him.
In either event, I still haven't decided whether to do the coupe front end or not, basically from lack of information thus far. So until I do make that decision I'm not bothering looking at the front end options.
I am likely buying THIS set of Side skirts. (NISMO).
Just the side skirts though.
I respect your opinion, and in most cases I'd agree. But IMHO the Jag makes it work beautifully. For instance a bar grill would also look out of place on the Jag, like something off a Taurus.
Believe it or not, after calculation, the OEM airbox setup has a larger inlet area and should theoretically be better than 3" dia pipe. ... So for a N/A 3.0L daily driver it's probably tough to do significantly better than the Nissan engineers. My best guess; the OEM setup was initially designed to work best for the 3.0L, but is restrictive on a 3.5L. And why only the 3.5L yields significant overall gains with a GAB or SRI mod.
When he fabricated his own custom intake manifold to go along with the intake, he got much larger gains, but very few members on this forum are willing to go that far in search of more power.
It's also interesting that the automotive/mechanical engineers that design intakes and the like have been well-aware of all the principals that are JUST now making it into the mainstream enthusiast community. Those stereotypical, clipboard-toting, white-labcoat wearing white males hovering around experiments? Yeah, they don't get enough credit.
And a billet grill on a G35? Yuck-o. Those side skirts look really sharp, but the rear splitter is waaay out of place. =/ Good of you not to get suckered into the whole package, TM.
Last edited by Eirik; Dec 15, 2011 at 10:56 AM.
But people don't seem to understand just how intelligent the engineers are that design every single piece on a car! I mean, look at how much time Sparks spent testing and retesting and testing and retesting his various intake setups to get us firm data on what produces the most power. Even after all that work, weren't his best designs providing ~7->~10 more HP than stock? All that labor and applied sciences and he could only beat the original engineers by 2.5% to 4%!
When he fabricated his own custom intake manifold to go along with the intake, he got much larger gains, but very few members on this forum are willing to go that far in search of more power.
It's also interesting that the automotive/mechanical engineers that design intakes and the like have been well-aware of all the principals that are JUST now making it into the mainstream enthusiast community. Those stereotypical, clipboard-toting, white-labcoat wearing white males hovering around experiments? Yeah, they don't get enough credit.
And a billet grill on a G35? Yuck-o. Those side skirts look really sharp, but the rear splitter is waaay out of place. =/ Good of you not to get suckered into the whole package, TM.
When he fabricated his own custom intake manifold to go along with the intake, he got much larger gains, but very few members on this forum are willing to go that far in search of more power.
It's also interesting that the automotive/mechanical engineers that design intakes and the like have been well-aware of all the principals that are JUST now making it into the mainstream enthusiast community. Those stereotypical, clipboard-toting, white-labcoat wearing white males hovering around experiments? Yeah, they don't get enough credit.
And a billet grill on a G35? Yuck-o. Those side skirts look really sharp, but the rear splitter is waaay out of place. =/ Good of you not to get suckered into the whole package, TM.
Hmmm chain link style eh... Normally I'd be quite opposed to anything resembling a wire/mesh grille, as they normally just look like hacked in Home Depot gutter guard or Home screening.
one of the guys at work has a Photoshop Master CD I should get it from him.
In either event, I still haven't decided whether to do the coupe front end or not, basically from lack of information thus far. So until I do make that decision I'm not bothering looking at the front end options.
I am likely buying THIS set of Side skirts. (NISMO).
Just the side skirts though.
one of the guys at work has a Photoshop Master CD I should get it from him.
In either event, I still haven't decided whether to do the coupe front end or not, basically from lack of information thus far. So until I do make that decision I'm not bothering looking at the front end options.
I am likely buying THIS set of Side skirts. (NISMO).
Just the side skirts though.
Last edited by Nexus67; Dec 15, 2011 at 02:35 PM.
But people don't seem to understand just how intelligent the engineers are that design every single piece on a car! I mean, look at how much time Sparks spent testing and retesting and testing and retesting his various intake setups to get us firm data on what produces the most power. Even after all that work, weren't his best designs providing ~7->~10 more HP than stock? All that labor and applied sciences and he could only beat the original engineers by 2.5% to 4%!
When he fabricated his own custom intake manifold to go along with the intake, he got much larger gains, but very few members on this forum are willing to go that far in search of more power.
It's also interesting that the automotive/mechanical engineers that design intakes and the like have been well-aware of all the principals that are JUST now making it into the mainstream enthusiast community. Those stereotypical, clipboard-toting, white-labcoat wearing white males hovering around experiments? Yeah, they don't get enough credit.
And a billet grill on a G35? Yuck-o. Those side skirts look really sharp, but the rear splitter is waaay out of place. =/ Good of you not to get suckered into the whole package, TM.
When he fabricated his own custom intake manifold to go along with the intake, he got much larger gains, but very few members on this forum are willing to go that far in search of more power.
It's also interesting that the automotive/mechanical engineers that design intakes and the like have been well-aware of all the principals that are JUST now making it into the mainstream enthusiast community. Those stereotypical, clipboard-toting, white-labcoat wearing white males hovering around experiments? Yeah, they don't get enough credit.
And a billet grill on a G35? Yuck-o. Those side skirts look really sharp, but the rear splitter is waaay out of place. =/ Good of you not to get suckered into the whole package, TM.
Regarding the comments about intakes, I'll say this one last thing because we're getting way OT with it, the most important thing about ANY mod or performance viewed aspect is NOT the PEAK HP rating, which is what everyone looks at. The fact that he "only" made 7-10hp means nothing to me, it's about WHERE he made increases in power, what are the differences in response time, and most importantly, does it FEEL faster.
And don't forget, thats "WHP" gains, so the percentage based of stock doesn't work, you have to base it off stock WHP to gain the proper percentage reading.
Those are the most important things to me, I don't really care about all the numbers, while we do need them to set a baseline and give us a rough idea, I think people put WAY too much stock in the "peak HP" gain numbers.
And when it comes to tuning, it's not about peak HP, it's about functional power. You can make crazy high peak HP with an intake tuned into high RPM, but it's usually useless power. Less HP tuned to a usable RPM range is better in this application.
If I've learnt anything, it's that they're never done
but thanks man Im anxious to get it on the go obviously 
That's about the best definition I've heard yet!