Anyone use this product on their Max?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

 

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=641056

 

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...kit-today.html

 

PUR mounts are a must, ETL is optional, but really helps.

 

He ain't never lied

 

You know my story man!

I almost removed my stage II.5 for a stage II because it was so harsh. I then tossed some mounts on there and it is soo smooth now, crisp and smooth, one of the best mods I've ever done and it compliments the VB mod nicely.

 

I've been thinking about doing this sence i dropped the new motor in.the problem is messing with the vb scares the crap out of me after reading thru the how to's its not as simple as when i dropped in the cheeta vb in my 87 iroc there was no drilling or anything like the transgo kit.i would attempt it if i could find a vb to use and keep the current one as my just in case.

 

In the process now. Got the Kit at Summit Racing for $118. Added genuine Nissan Solenoid pack from Stealership for 89.95. How did I get the pack so cheap? Read on.

I think I got it all figured out reguarding the Solenoid packs. If you attempt to buy the solenoid packs on the own = about $310 give or take. If you elect to buy the Solenoid repair kit listed in TSB NTB-043 ,(Nissan part # 31940-80X25), it only costs $89 at Courtesy Nissan. This "kit" includes:

Solenoid assembly qty 1 part # 31940-80X05 price= $309.61
Oil Pan Bolt qty21 part # 31377-80X09 price= $11.76 ($.56 X 21)
Drain Plug Washer qty 1 part # 11026-01M02 price= $1.17
Snap Ring qty1 part # 31506-80X11 price= $1.29

The way I see it, you save $234.83 and you get the solenoid pack PLUS new drain pan bolts, a new drain plug washer and a new snap ring. What a bunch of thieves. They arent called stealerships for nothing I guess.

 

Good find bro!

 

What are PUR mounts and ETL? (in regards to VB mod)

Thanks.

 

* PUR - Poly-Urethane (liquid rubber poured into gutted mounts OR ES poly inserts).
* ETL - Engine Torque Link. Aaron (NWP Engineering) makes it. Bar that installs at your torque mount (front of engine) to reduce engine movement so to increase power through transmission and to the wheels. Another good option is Knights "Wrayth" mounts (poly insert for torque mount).

 

Get

ES Front/Rear
Knight's Tranny / Passenger mounts
Install a transgo hd2 kit
If you are going to be power braking and all that, probably good idea to invest in a high stall torque converter !!!
Done

Biggest issue - when car is idling, the mirror vibrates and my glove box shakes..

 

where can I get the high stall torque converter, I know Stillen used to make them but not anymore? Anyone have a part number for it?

 

Some have got the Level10 one...

http://www.levelten.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=46

Or ask Aaron NWP guy, he has one and ask him what kind he has...

 

sorry to be the village idiot but, can you spell out those acronyms?

 

read post #11

 

these are must for all 5th gens? i'm assuming these can be replaced after the trans as been removed.

 

The mounts themselves could always be replaced with other mounts if you don't like the mod. Aaron's torque link is specifically designed for easy removal and re-installation.

Non of these suggestions are necessary, but are confirmed improvements to get the most out of what you've got.

 

thanks for the link

 

do they do a better job at dampning or are they geared towards performance?

I though you could just make high stall converters? the trans guy i know cuts them open does some stuff and welds them back shut, he it does quite a bit for the muscle car guys.

 

If by dampening you mean absorbing vibrations, poly mounts do NOT......they absorb less, therefore transfers increased vibrations to the chassis and steering wheel. This is due to increased stiffness which decrease engine and transmission movement. Decreased movement allows the power/torque to be transferred more effectively to the wheels. Helps reduce power loss through the driveshafts and to the wheels.

 

I can tell you this......

I have poly engine mounts everywhere, poly subframe bushings, control arm bushings, NWP torque link, subframe collars, FSTB, rear sway bar and TDMI Coilovers. Car handles and feels like its on rails. Honestly, I dont even really notice the vibration. It DEFINITELY feels alot more connected to the road! Well worth the upgrade in my opinion.

 

Though its a different story when one is an automatic. Autos are known with stiffer mounts to have much higher vibration noise when idling in gear as opposed to manuals.

 

thanks for the info, i guess that is something to think about. Yeah mine is an automatic.